Leaderboard

I'm probably going to raise this as a bug as I have done for 2018/2019 but has anyone else noticed that cars that are upgraded in the career mode (season 2ish onwards), spark almost constantly around the track? The cause previously and very likely this time is that the downforce upgrades push the car lower down with the in-game physics but the upgrades don't compensate springs or ride height automatically, as I guess a team would do in real life. It means that to reduce the bottoming out you have to increase ride height to ridiculous levels whereas the AI doesn't need to do this because their cars aren't simulated in the same way. Plus the sound gets really annoying.

I agree completely. At the tail end of F1 2019, I started exploring with no assists. I was a regular when it came to TC medium and Anti lock brakes on. I couldn't imagine driving without them. When I bought 2020, I made the decision to never turn assists on from day 1. It was the best decision I ever made.... in terms of gaming. Eventually you'll figure out how to get faster. With time and practice comes success. I still play F1 2019 Featured Events. I can now also drive there very well with no Assists. I've actually won 2 events. The most recent was the Canada featured event. The German Event that just passed, I placed P2. I guess my point is, as hard as it seems right now to get your lap times back closer, or even better than your pad times. You WILL get there. Don't get discouraged. Put in the Time and you'll see results.

4 new STT Line liveries available on http://www.photo622.com/crdigidr23.html or https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/categories/dirt-rally-2-0.184/

Even with a year out most of the field couldn't keep up with him or the Polo, shows how good both are really.

@Turtlemoose F1 cars use toe in in the rear axle and that's what you're adjusting on the respective slider. Haha I doubt you'd be able to stay within track limits for long on any change of direction if you were to run around with toe out on the rear wheels – and this goes from adjusting your racing line on a straight to exiting a corner. Toe in is all about stability. Toe out is set with your car's responsiveness in mind and that comes at play on the front axle in a F1 car. You add some toe in to the rear wheels and your car will feel more planted and disinclined to oversteer – maybe even risking understeering too much if not properly setup. For tyre wear you should aim for a neutral toe as an angle of any kind (in or out) results in you dragging part of your tyres over the tarmac. The tyre rolling axis or so to say is not perfectly aligned with the movement direction. Slider to the right: more toe, regardless if toe in or toe out. Slider to the left, less toe, regardless if toe in or toe out. Camber should "stay on the right" to avoid tyre wear. It is just the way the UI is presented but if you read the in-game description it gets clear as day: F1 cars (and pretty much any racing car) use negative camber adjustments to set a proper contact patch between tyre and tarmac at all times. Negative camber makes the bottom of the wheel stick out to the outside of the car so that when you make a turn and the car rolls sideways, leaning on the outside wheels, these wheels have good grip on the track. Your mileage may vary but to me personally after I've spent some 20 or more minutes adjusting my setup, sometimes it is a single click on toe or camber settings that does the trick. Tyre pressure is not that simple neither unless you're playing on Time Trials, where the tyre will never give on you. Tyre pressure is all about how rigid of a structure you have on your rubber. High tyre pressure will give you a more rigid tyre that won't flex much when the car rolls. On one hand your wheel will be more responsive to any steering input and with the little flexing it is doing it won't wear out as much as a result of physical abrasion with the tarmac, but you will have less rubber on the track and thus less grip as the tyre won't hug the track as well. The increased pressure may result in a hotter tyre too. Low tyre pressure will give you a softer structure that will flex and hug the tarmac better. On one hand your grip will be as good as your suspension geometry allows it and have a lower general temperature. On the other so much flexing will increase the rubber patch being worn by the constant scrubbing against the asphalt, increasing tyre wear. Bear in mind that high pressure is conducive to higher tyre temperature, but the tarmac abrasion your lower pressurized tyres have increases the temperature too. Tyre wear has two sources: tyre degradation from heat and physical abrasion from the scrubbing against the track. Edit: Forgot this bit. Set the off-throttle diff to 100 and go for a lap on Barcelona and then set it on 50 and go for another lap. The difference will pop up easily. The amount of understeer you'll get with a locked off power diff. makes it impossible to drive on circuits with tight turns.

Same issue here, when on second season of My Team Career with Aero Upgrade about 2/3 complete. No matter what wing setting and height setting, bottom scrapes in almost 90% of all the straights...its a bummer having to feel scraping. Also kills enjoyment of replays and highlights.

Yea this happened to me in career mode, season 2, very annoying. Car is starting to scrape all the time no matter what car setup you use.

1. A detailed description of the issue - Upgraded career mode cars over-scrape/spark when driving at slow speeds. The downforce upgrade causes the car model to be pushed further to the ground and thus scrape a lot more and at much lower speeds than intended. When you near full upgrade the effect is almost constant and causes both an annoying sound effect and a slight rumble to the camera. The AI do not seem to have this issue as much as the player (likely due to the reduced sim model). I've noticed that the 5 seconds before the car is handed to me in practice flying exits, the car does not spark then as soon as I'm given control, you can see the car lower and begin to scrape. Increasing the ride height in the setup does reduce the problem (I usually stick with default setup) but is not a fair fix as the AI do not need to do it, thus putting me at a setup disadvantage. In reality the teams would change the spring setup to compensate for the increase in downforce being produced but this is not replicable in the game. 2. What version of the game you are using (Shown on the start screen in the bottom left corner of the screen) 1.08 (but this has been happening since F1 2017) 3. Game-mode? Career (driver or myteam) 4. What are your replication numbers? Minimum test attempts are 4. Please also add EXACT replication steps for us to try too. Every session with an upgraded car. More apparent on certain cars than others. McLaren in 2020 is bad with about 7+ downforce + chassis upgrades. 5. What troubleshooting have you attempted? Please always try to attempt to fix the issue Last year I modded the sparks out and reduced the camera shake to 0. Hoping we can get a fix this time round. 6. What peripherals are you are using (gamepad, wheel make & model etc) N/A 7. Any screenshots or video of the issue? If the video is long, please include a timestamp for when the issue appears. pending upload. Last years chain -

Thanks for pointing out the Bluetooth driver update; I updated it via Windows optional updates. Unfortunately, the stuttering remains after the update, with or without other Bluetooth devices connected. Some other observations from my testing in the Australia and Britain time trials: The stuttering is the worst at the beginning of the session, improving after a lap or two, but never completely going away. Turning the controller off and on again improves the stuttering, but does not completely fix it. The stuttering is not exactly a decreased framerate, although the framerate detected by Steam does decrease. It's more like several frames at the normal framerate, a pause with no frames, and then several more frames at the normal framerate. No other games (including Forza Motorsport 7 and Forza Horizon 4) give me these issues, which is why I'm on this forum 🙂 I will likely give up on wireless for this game anyway. I just did a reaction time test, and it clearly showed an extra 50ms input lag for wireless over wired. I do think 50ms matters in this game as the rhythm of these circuits is very tight.

Thankyou @IneedToPlayGame! As I mentioned, I've spent years playing these games. For me, these options would just add to the realism at is suppose to be a sim game.

I try launch game in window and full screen, same errore. Try to launch with dx11 and dx12 same error. Try to run with admin permission, same error. DxDiag.txt

I am also very disappointed. No longer have the option in French. Jeff on the radio and commentators now in English.

Anyone from PC could take a screenshot of the TT leaderboard, let’s say Top 20? It would be really appreciated Searching for the best legit laptime. BTW @PJTierney, has Steam to be considered as PC right?

Mate seriously, that looks awesome 😎 i cannot share mine because it is kind of embarassing 🙈😄 but if I would have that kind of gaming set I would need choose between my wife and the gaming 😂 sometimes I feel second 😄 No man I have to build up my wheel and pedals everytime I play and store it afterwards 😄 but for the first impression it works. It will be improved in a later stage when I have a proper plan for it and storage space 😉 Made my first race against 90 AI in Bahrain from 14 to p7 with Mercedes without any damages or trips away from the track. Still a long way though,but I was always pretty solid in racing games so I am looking forward 😎

It took me a while too. I learned in rally (with an F1 rim) so transitioning to F1 wasn't hard for me.

This is an excellent suggestion. I hope they implement this

Hi @Nemanja152 A bug report, DXDiag and a screenshot(s) of your in-game graphical settings will be key here. If you can provide, I'll take a look.

I didn't care about the conditions: I am just desperate to see more racing! I also wanted to see how Johan fared at Spa (not knowing the track) and how quickly he got his head around Germany. Hopefully we'll get to see that next year. Speaking of Johan - and people may disagree - but, despite the loss of rounds, I think the right driver has won WRX this year. Barratt wins because she turned up at every weekend... I understand that the ball is only just starting to roll this year, but declaring her a winner in that series seems a bit of a joke. British RX is still on track for a double-header weekend at the start of December: but sadly without spectators.

Get your wheel calibration sorted as early as you can, as learning with "poor" wheel settings will take longer 🙂 Lots of guides on YouTube, and some wheel manufacturers have recommended settings too so try those out.

Beklagar sorgen! 😞

OK so the board is updated 🙂 Can you try using the Realtek Audio with the controllers BT connected (the BT controller is the Intel AC-3168) i.e. not to the headphones? Delete the hardware_settings_config.xml and configure the in-game audio before playing a game mode. Then try introducing the BT headset and see if the frame stutter occurs. IDSA will give you the latest Intel BT drivers but judicious use of Roll-Back or uninstall / reinstall may be required (for the BT driver).

The thing is, I'm pretty sure it does affect the AI. Judging from all my starts where I can easily overtake 2 or even 3 cars, and I'm not a start-maestro, but those overtakes come most likely from me starting with tyres over 80°C vs the AI starting on cold ones

Camber to the right and toe to the left should give you minimum tyre wear. If it's not the case it's due to other parts of the setup/bad combinations...

Had this after some of the chassis upgrades. I think it's 'aesthetic' so the car isn't 'actually' bottoming out but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on that, I've only just got to grips with set ups. It's really annoying and it was an issue in last years' game too. Even at maximum ride height, I still 'bottom' out so it's definitely a bug.

Did leg 1 of NZ, went OK except overpushing a few times so had at least one off per stage. Then thought I'd make use of the sun today, went out climbing, came home, decided to vacuum since I dragged a lot of dirt inside. When I vacuumed around the wheel I got a sudden flash from static electricity, and then it wouldn't work.... So I'll try to order a new PSU for it, but will probably not be able to drive for a little while.