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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/21/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I didn't check this for a bit and when I come back I find a debate about center pivot physics and an AD for bikers only cruises. I guess this topic really NEVER does disappoint. Of all the paintings in history, you chose the one that most famously was altered and revised constantly by his author until his death... I am not a huge fan of the theory "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", sorry. I believe there is always room for improvement, expecially in a field such as racing games development where simplicity isn't really a good thing.
  2. 3 points
    You're a confusing lot sometimes...
  3. 3 points
    Waiting on any Dev response If only Porkhammer where here
  4. 3 points
    @Turtlemoose F1 cars use toe in in the rear axle and that's what you're adjusting on the respective slider. Haha I doubt you'd be able to stay within track limits for long on any change of direction if you were to run around with toe out on the rear wheels – and this goes from adjusting your racing line on a straight to exiting a corner. Toe in is all about stability. Toe out is set with your car's responsiveness in mind and that comes at play on the front axle in a F1 car. You add some toe in to the rear wheels and your car will feel more planted and disinclined to oversteer – maybe even risking understeering too much if not properly setup. For tyre wear you should aim for a neutral toe as an angle of any kind (in or out) results in you dragging part of your tyres over the tarmac. The tyre rolling axis or so to say is not perfectly aligned with the movement direction. Slider to the right: more toe, regardless if toe in or toe out. Slider to the left, less toe, regardless if toe in or toe out. Camber should "stay on the right" to avoid tyre wear. It is just the way the UI is presented but if you read the in-game description it gets clear as day: F1 cars (and pretty much any racing car) use negative camber adjustments to set a proper contact patch between tyre and tarmac at all times. Negative camber makes the bottom of the wheel stick out to the outside of the car so that when you make a turn and the car rolls sideways, leaning on the outside wheels, these wheels have good grip on the track. Your mileage may vary but to me personally after I've spent some 20 or more minutes adjusting my setup, sometimes it is a single click on toe or camber settings that does the trick. Tyre pressure is not that simple neither unless you're playing on Time Trials, where the tyre will never give on you. Tyre pressure is all about how rigid of a structure you have on your rubber. High tyre pressure will give you a more rigid tyre that won't flex much when the car rolls. On one hand your wheel will be more responsive to any steering input and with the little flexing it is doing it won't wear out as much as a result of physical abrasion with the tarmac, but you will have less rubber on the track and thus less grip as the tyre won't hug the track as well. The increased pressure may result in a hotter tyre too. Low tyre pressure will give you a softer structure that will flex and hug the tarmac better. On one hand your grip will be as good as your suspension geometry allows it and have a lower general temperature. On the other so much flexing will increase the rubber patch being worn by the constant scrubbing against the asphalt, increasing tyre wear. Bear in mind that high pressure is conducive to higher tyre temperature, but the tarmac abrasion your lower pressurized tyres have increases the temperature too. Tyre wear has two sources: tyre degradation from heat and physical abrasion from the scrubbing against the track. Edit: Forgot this bit. Set the off-throttle diff to 100 and go for a lap on Barcelona and then set it on 50 and go for another lap. The difference will pop up easily. The amount of understeer you'll get with a locked off power diff. makes it impossible to drive on circuits with tight turns.
  5. 2 points
    I'm probably going to raise this as a bug as I have done for 2018/2019 but has anyone else noticed that cars that are upgraded in the career mode (season 2ish onwards), spark almost constantly around the track? The cause previously and very likely this time is that the downforce upgrades push the car lower down with the in-game physics but the upgrades don't compensate springs or ride height automatically, as I guess a team would do in real life. It means that to reduce the bottoming out you have to increase ride height to ridiculous levels whereas the AI doesn't need to do this because their cars aren't simulated in the same way. Plus the sound gets really annoying.
  6. 2 points
    I agree completely. At the tail end of F1 2019, I started exploring with no assists. I was a regular when it came to TC medium and Anti lock brakes on. I couldn't imagine driving without them. When I bought 2020, I made the decision to never turn assists on from day 1. It was the best decision I ever made.... in terms of gaming. Eventually you'll figure out how to get faster. With time and practice comes success. I still play F1 2019 Featured Events. I can now also drive there very well with no Assists. I've actually won 2 events. The most recent was the Canada featured event. The German Event that just passed, I placed P2. I guess my point is, as hard as it seems right now to get your lap times back closer, or even better than your pad times. You WILL get there. Don't get discouraged. Put in the Time and you'll see results.
  7. 2 points
    Yeah, In my video you can see that I never received any penalties. You get a penalty if you take a new engine, not if you change. If in doubt, turn off the rule in the options and play it as it was. 😉 I don't think the AI change settings of the car or change engine parts even if the rule is disabled. Thanks BarryBL, good job to you and Codemasters team's 😀
  8. 2 points
    Hi everyone, To update, we have now replicated this and have a fix in testing. If all goes to plan, we are planning to schedule for the next upcoming patch.
  9. 2 points
    Mate seriously, that looks awesome 😎 i cannot share mine because it is kind of embarassing 🙈😄 but if I would have that kind of gaming set I would need choose between my wife and the gaming 😂 sometimes I feel second 😄 No man I have to build up my wheel and pedals everytime I play and store it afterwards 😄 but for the first impression it works. It will be improved in a later stage when I have a proper plan for it and storage space 😉 Made my first race against 90 AI in Bahrain from 14 to p7 with Mercedes without any damages or trips away from the track. Still a long way though,but I was always pretty solid in racing games so I am looking forward 😎
  10. 2 points
    4 new STT Line liveries available on http://www.photo622.com/crdigidr23.html or https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/categories/dirt-rally-2-0.184/
  11. 2 points
    It took me a while too. I learned in rally (with an F1 rim) so transitioning to F1 wasn't hard for me.
  12. 2 points
    Even with a year out most of the field couldn't keep up with him or the Polo, shows how good both are really.
  13. 2 points
    Get your wheel calibration sorted as early as you can, as learning with "poor" wheel settings will take longer 🙂 Lots of guides on YouTube, and some wheel manufacturers have recommended settings too so try those out.
  14. 2 points
    My advice would be to turn off all assists from the start to avoid becoming too used to them. Just do laps in time trial. It takes a while but you have to keep at it.
  15. 2 points
    Here's the long-awaited 'World Series' Ford Fiesta R5 Mk.II for Dirt Rally 2.0! Hope you guys will enjoy it! Link: https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/ford-fiesta-r5-mk-ii-world-series-design.37223/
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    Same issue here, when on second season of My Team Career with Aero Upgrade about 2/3 complete. No matter what wing setting and height setting, bottom scrapes in almost 90% of all the straights...its a bummer having to feel scraping. Also kills enjoyment of replays and highlights.
  19. 1 point
    1. A detailed description of the issue. Please include any error codes here. So I've found a way to induce frame stuttering in all modes of the game with 100% reliability and thing that this may be a reason why a lot of people experience stuttering. To note, I would describe it as "Frame time stuttering." So in order to have this happen you may or may not need to be on PC but I am on pc. I would assume it happens on all specs of pc since I could cause the stuttering at every graphics setting. You need to be using a Bluetooth wireless controller. (I used xbox one) and have a bluetooth adapter for your pc. Specifically I'm using a fairly cheap one off Amazon. I think that the Force Feedback code is creating Wait on frame rendering, and if your bluetooth connection to your controller isn't high, or stable it will create the games frametime to hitch and stutter as each frame waits for force feedback data. Why do I think this? Because I can lean back in my chair and have next to no noticeable stuttering, but if I lean forward and put my hands on my desk, giving my controller the worst connection to the bluetooth adapter, the stuttering brings the game to unplayable levels(It also makes the audio stutter and hitch, so full game engine stuttering I presume). Then I can lean back or hold the controller near my pc and suddenly my frame time returns to normal. But the ultimate tell tale is that disabling force feedback all together make my framerate higher overall and never produce stuttering, even with my hands on my desk. (I have had my controller lose connection before with my hands on my desk, in many games that I use it for. So I know the signal strength is quite weak when I do that.) Maybe it is my cheap adapter? But I think the force feedback code for controllers should be looked at. 2. Platform Probably all of them? 3. What version of the game you are using (Shown on the start screen in the bottom left corner of the screen) 1.05 4. Game-mode? All of them 5. What are your replication numbers? Minimum test attempts are 4. Please also add EXACT replication steps for us to try too. 100% check wall of text. Use bluetooth with wireless controller, influence signal strength. 6. What troubleshooting have you attempted? Please always try to attempt to fix the issue There is no way to fix the issue and maintain force feedback 7. What peripherals are you are using (gamepad, wheel make & model etc) Gamepad, specifically xbox one (none elite) 8. Any screenshots or video of the issue? If the video is long, please include a timestamp for when the issue appears.
  20. 1 point
    Good spot @HenricusVonG. Replicated, bugged and with developers 👍
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    This is a good title to pick up and play when you just have that need for a quick racing fix. Compared to DR2 the main advantages are that it loads faster, the campaign is more involved with how you go about managing the team and stages and the handling feels good with the weight transfer and grip. On the other hand the arbitrary objectives are sometimes problematic. There's not a lot of them and it just feels like something that should have been further developed. One other problem I have is the widely swinging difficulty. It's good that you can set it before each event, but some events you can easily win, while in others (I'm looking at you, historic races) you really struggle. All in all and like others have said: DR2 is one, WRC9 is another. They can co-exist very well.
  23. 1 point
    At first play with the same assists you used to play with pad. Just matter of 2-3 days to get used to it (depending on the hours you playing). After you reach your lap times just start to remove assists by one at the time. Enjoy your new wheel
  24. 1 point
    Long story short - the game has no option to save game progress during split-screen championship. And a bit wider explanation: As in topic title - F1 2020 has fantastic split screen mode, and you can even play entire season of 100% length races with your friend as your teammate if you'd like to. The game even keeps track of scoring along the whole season, which is awesome and unusual nowadays. BUT!! What's the point of all this if YOU CAN'T SAVE THE GAME in this mode at all!? There's not even an autosave option. Every time you exit split screen mode, the whole progress is gone at once. There's such a big potential in this mode, and everything is already there. All that's needed is one small micropatch, that would add at least an autosave feature. I believe it's not asking for too much. Back in the old days, I remember countless hours of driving in split-screen championships in the very first Colin McRae Rally. Man, it's over 20 years already, and I was waiting all this time for an F1 game, that would allow just that. This one has all that's needed already in place. Except of that little saving feature. That would literally be THE gamechanger for me.
  25. 1 point
    I don't understand how the AI complexity works either ?! In the career "my team" I decided to raise the complexity of the AI, because my team is not developed, but in the last races I come consistently with very good points, and I have driven only 13 races. Loaded the next stage 14 - Belgium, C1. Qualifying circle started comparing task time: AI complexity 100%, required circle time of the problem - 1:45.830 101% - 1:45.592 102% - 1:45.345 103% - 1:45.097 104% - 1:44.862 I complete the lap for 1:44.9** and decided that the optimal difficulty for the current Grand Prix and for the next one should be 102%. But the next time C1 of Belgium is loaded, the AI 102% already requires a different time, the earlier it was necessary 1:45.345, and now it is necessary 1:44.8** ... I change the complexity of the AI and the timing of the tasks in practice. in C1 the required time is 1:45.5 and in C2 the required time is already different - 1:45.0 I do not understand...