Krisperfectline

Can a moderator or someone who is deep into my team comment on this? Sometimes the pit crew will do 3 seconds or 1.9 seconds stop. Is there a way to improve the pit crew or at least get consistent and decent pit stop time?

I play on 105% difficulty and I do 50% races. I am at Monaco in my first season in my team, and I have had a total of 3 safety car deployments. Two of them have had quite a big impact on my races. The first one came out on China after 2 laps when Ocon’s engine blew up on the back straight. The other two came at Spain. The first one at Spain came out on lap 13 because Raikkonen’s engine exploded in front of me in between turn 8-9. I was on Medium tyres, and I pitted for hard tyres. The last safety car in Spain came out on lap 20 when Ricciardo’s engine also exploded at the start of the third sector, and I pitted for Mediums in spite running in P9 and having a chance to jump a couple of cars since they still had to do an extra stop. I played it safe, and the safety cars in Spain were critical to the race outcome, which I finished in P9. So far, I only had safety cars. No VSC so far.

I also feel that the Williams is easier to control on traction on gears 1-4 in comparison to the Mercedes. It appears that the Mercedes is more prone to loss of traction than the Wiliams. I also play on a pad with no assists. As the post above, you need to develop rear downforce upgrades or weight redistribution upgrades. More engine power means more torque on the car, and that means that the car could be more prone to traction loss. You need to have some rear downforce and weight redistribution upgrades.

I also play on a pad on 105 difficulty with no assists, and I race on 50% races. So we are in a similar situation. Man... this track, the ai are just nuts in terms of pace and consistency. I am practicing as Bottas in the Mercedes for the real event in My Team. Anyways, I have no problems with tyres overheating. It’s just the ridiculous pace of the ai that I cannot match in terms of consistency. In terms of fastest lap, I can match Hamilton, but I cannot do those laps consistently. The overheating occurs mostly in the first sector and possibly in the final sector as well. I am normally 2-4 tenths off the ai. I am working to get those consistent lap times, because I know I can be with them if I can sort that out. Have you tried lowering the tyre pressures? Normally, by turn 4, my left front would be at 102-104 degrees. At turn 4, which is a left turn, expect the car to slightly understeer in those temperatures. However, 102-104 degrees for that corner is a decent temperature to give enough grip to take the corner without any problems, as long as you get a decent line into turn 4. I recommend lowering the tyre pressures, not pressing the brakes fully and to not input maximum steering lock on turn 3. This on the Medium Tyre. On the hard tyre, the temperatures were fine, I have always been, at maximum, 98-99 degrees throughout the stint. I am not looking forward to Silverstone after seeing the ai...

It’s not that bad, but you need to be patient when driving in Hanoi, especially if you are a pad player. Also, be careful with the kerbs, some can just spin you out, while others will be sending you flying..

Man. I play on a pad with no assists on the Ps4 and I do 50% races. I play on 105% difficulty. I have done two Grand Prix mode races as Bottas in Spain for practice for My Team, and I can tell you that the ai were ridiculously fast and consistent throughout the race. I decided to let the Red Bulls, Ferraris and Hamilton pull out a 3 second gap ahead of me to get decent data. Once that happened, and I started to push, my goodness, they were insane. We were all on Medium tyres, and their lap times were consistently in the 1:19.5-1:19.8. I could do 1:19.8-1:19.9 consistently, but I had to sweat it out. This remained the case for 16 laps, and we had no tyre degradation. Somehow we were able to push hard without worrying about the tyres. In the second half of the race, when we were all on hard tyres, they were doing 1:18.5-1:18.8. I could do those lap times, but I would have to be perfect every lap. What was worse, was that by lap 27, they were doing 1:18:0-1:18.3 with Hamilton doing one lap in the 1:17.9. The ai at Spain are crazy. We were almost doing league racing pace not too far off the top players, and if this is what it takes to beat the ai at Spain, then this is crazy. I saw Silverstone ai could also be harder than Spain and possibly Suzuka.. This was the first time I had problems with the ai speed. Crazy.

It is a nice feature to have Will interviewing us at the factory. However, when the team order question comes up, just like Tiametmarduk says, tell him: GET OUT OF MY FACTORY. Does anyone know what happens if you choose “no comment” to Claire’s questions? Particularly if you do it consistently. Does it affect their approach in the future?

The increase in tyre pressures do increase straightline speed. However, do note of the following explained by David Grecko: Increase in pressure = Higher tyre temperatures, better tyre wear, higher straightline speed and better grip in high speed corners. Decrease in pressure = Lower tyre temperatures, higher wear, lower straightline speed and better traction. Here is a link to an article about tyres in the game: https://www.overtake.gg/en/news/1092-f1-2020-guide-how-to-manage-your-tires

A. Decrease both ride heights or increase the tyre pressures. However, I kindly recommend to experiment with adjustments to see if it works for your style. B. This setup is way too low on downforce for Monaco. In Monaco, you should be using almost or maximum downforce, that is 8-11 on the wings. In last year’s game, I ran 10 front wing and 11 front wing for Monaco. I expect that to be similar for this year’s game. You can also go maximum cambers to the right and minimum toes to the left. For every track, I use the maxmium camber and minimum toe. It appears to still be a good balance, as it gives good grip, You can try it yourself. You can also adjust the off throttle differential by lowering it to give you more rotation when you are turning while you are off the throttle. However, do note that by lowering the off throttle differential, you can make the car more prone to sliding when you are off the throttle or not on the throttle. You need to find the correct balance. I use 50% off throttle differential on most tracks. You can also stiffen the rear suspension and the front anti roll bar a little bit. However, do note that by increasing the rear suspension, you can make the car a lot less stable when going over the kerbs, and at Monaco, you do need to use kerbs. If you find that you are only having problems with cornering speed, then you can use the ideas in the previous paragraphs to help you, and ignore this. Because adjusting the suspensions will affect not only the car’s turning ability, but also the car’s stability. C. Balancing the aero depends on your feel for the car. Most of us run a lower front wing than the rear wing to keep the car stable. It depends on you. On this game, the front wing adjustment appears to have a bigger effect on the straightline speed rather than an adjustment on the rear wing. Try keeping the front wing at least 2 clicks lower than the rear wing to keep stability. The closer the front wing is to the rear wing, the less stability you get, the less straightline speed and the more turn in ability you get.

Medium Traction control or full appears to be used here. Either one of these assists decreases your acceleration out of slow and medium speed corners. However, I believe that the problem relies on the timing of the throttle and steering wheel you apply at turn 1. The entry line is excellent, and that is the optimum line. Slow down to the apex, and take a tighter exit out of turn 1, and wait for the car to be straightened rather than planting the throttle too early. Instead of: Early throttle, high input steering into turn 2, thereby compromising the exit of turn 2, which leads to loss of time down the short straight into turn 4. Try taking a late throttle inputh with a tighter line into turn 1. You can use Leclerc’s pole lap and Bottas’ lap as a guide:

You are right that high speed, and medium cornering speed has been increased. However, slow speed is still almost similar to 2019, and I wish they could give us more grip in slow speed corners. It feels dangerous to plant the throttle early on slow speed corners in this game, as I still feel that the cars are just on a knife edge on slow speed corners. I play on a pad with no assists.

I have tried to get some answers by browsing on the internet. I have found some, but I am still slightly confused. Therefore, I politely ask for clarification. In previous games, using lean mix a lot will damage the energy store. Now that we have the overtake button and ERS, I think it is different. I am shocked that my Energy Store is at 49% after 4 races into My Team Career, and I do all three practice sessions, full qualifying and 50% race. This and the turbo charger are the only ones I am struggling with in terms durability, and this is in spite of the fact, that my team is on top of the performance chart in durability. So what wears the energy store? Is it the following: - Consistent use of Lean mix fuel. - Retaining 90-100% charge of the battery, and not using the battery. - Using Overtake consistently when the battery is at low capacity. For example at 1-3%. If using lean mix is part of it, then it is no surprise that I am wearing it faster, since I use lean mix fuel a lot in the race during sections of the track that are not taken heavily on full throttle. For instance, the final sector at Melbourne.

It worked a treat today 🤣. I managed to reduce the wear to just 6% in the race. I am waiting for the first energy store upgrade that failed, and when that will be fitted, I think I should be fine for some races. Eventually, I will take a grid penalty for the energy store.

I play on a pad with no assists and race on 105% ai. I also do not use vibrations, and the only advise I can give to you, is to not apply full throttle until 4-5th gear. You will already feel it when the car is about to slide, and do not apply the throttle fully on the high revs in lower gears. In 4th gear, you can escape from the rear sliding most of the time. However, it is a bit risky and requires practice. You could also try not accelerating until you straighten the steering wheel of the car. For a good way to start, say to yourself: I AM NOT TOUCHING THAT THROTTLE UNTIL STEERING WHEEL IS STRAIGHTENED!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣You can also calibrate throttle deadzone, saturation and linearity on the controller settings. For this, I recommend throttle deadzone to be higher, but you will need to find your spot for that..

Are you kidding me? So using the energy is worth it rather than conserving it!!! I have the Energy store durability increase at 16% and I fitted a new one in FP3 in Zandvoort, and I did a lap without using any battery, and in one lap it went from 0% wear to 1% wear... That is crazy. It appears that the “saving a lot” does not when preserving power unit parts.... I will definitely use my battery a bit in practice. By that logic, you cannot drive slowly on the track now because driving slowly will retain charge of battery. However, driving faster will possibly wear out the other components as well. If this is how it is in real life, then I am fine with that mechanic. I normally drive slowly on practice laps that are not counted in the practice programs to preserve the power unit parts. Guess this year I’ll need to moderate it a bit more..

I have not yet played on Singapore, but it is a track where I normally do not have problems, except tyre overheating in F1 2018. It should be a lot easier this year due to the kerbs being less lethal.

My least favorite tracks are: Brazil and Canada. My favorites: Japan, Singapore, Vietnam, Britain and Abu Dhabi.

ISo far, I have seen them making a lot of mistakes in Vietnam. Ocon and I were fighting for P9 at one stage in the race, and he lost the rear end on the long sweeping left hand corner just after the chicane at the end of the first sector. The next lap, it was Ricciardo who lost the rear end there while he was behind me. A few laps later, Raikkonen did the same mistake while I was 2-3 seconds ahead of him. I noticed it because of the delta gap, and I checked on the replay. I have received instances where some of them lock up into the chicane at the end of the first sector. I play on a pad and on 105% difficulty. On his My Team Career mode, Aarava had Hamilton, a 95 rated awareness, ran over the kerb on the fast right hander before the split time of the second sector in Bahrain, that lead to a spin, and then Albon colliding with him as his car was on the middle of the racing line. They do make mistakes more compared to last games.

TRL Limitless wants to know your location on the track 😛

So, in Suzuka in F1 2019 with a Mercedes in time trial, here is the best laptime I did: - 1:28:165 with a setup and good warm up laps. In F1 2020, with a Mercedes in time trial, here is the best laptime I did: - 1:27.3 without a setup and with no proper warm up laps. I’d say there is at least 0.5 for me to improve. Cars are insane, I took the S section in Suzuka in 6th gear whilst in F1 2019, I would go 5th or 4th gear in them... Grab the Mercedes, and enjoy the pleasure of driving on any track... Even the Williams as well. I don’t know, but the rear end of the Williams snaps less to me than the Mercedes... But, the Mercedes is still the best in the game by a long way...

Taking a different line into the corner than the one that the car in front does, is the best way to lessen the effect. You will still feel it, but it will not be as powerful as it is when you are directly behind the car. Braking early is also a help in order to ensure you get a decent line into corners. I have noticed that the longer the curve is, the more cautious you will need to be, such as turn 5 in Hungary, the final corner in Melbourne, the corner before the back straight in China, and similar corners.... Just note that, you would rather lose time than spin out or go off the track...

This is undoubtedly dirty air, which everyone of us hates. Try braking earlier or taking a different line to the car in front. This is noticeable on long sweeping corners, and the effect can be powerful leading to unwanted situations... For drivers who are sensitive to car balance, the effect can be felt when you already 2-3 seconds behind. The closer you get, and if you do not have a strong pace advantage over the car in front, the more cautious you need to be, and the more difficult it gets to keeping up with the car in front. This is why you see some drivers struggle to overtake others in real life as well...

It means that some departments could have their upgrades reset to zero at the end of the season. For example, if he said that the engine cover will be modified or something like that, then that could mean that the powertrain department could be affected. As such, all upgrades done on the powertrain department will be removed from your car starting next season. How to mitigate this, or to prevent a lot of damage? You will need to reinvest r and d points to the parts that you would like to keep. There is no need to worry, as they will cost half of the price that you purchased them. For example, if you bought the minor upgrades for 525 points, they will have a points reduction of 50%. Therefore, it will cost 262.50 points now. Don’t worry about it, you will be fine, as you are at Italy in the calendar. Better start saving resource points for this...

I just finished the Chinese Gp, a 50% race in my first season in my team. I had Ocon who retired on the back straight on lap 2, and that brough out the safety car. However, I was like P4-P5, thanks to a wet qualifying session, while he was like P10-P14, and I was at around 2-5 seconds ahead of him. Just before the Chinese Gp in Vietnam, I had a safety car after Kyvat retired from the race with a mechanical issue. I could not capture where he was on track, but when the safety car was called out, I was just at the end of the Sector 2... So far I have not had any crashes near me... I have had a great battle in Vietnam with Ricciardo and Raikkonen. I had to battle Kimi for 2-3 laps, and Ricciardo for 5-7 laps. It was great fun battling them at the back straight until the hairpin. Fair play to both of them in leaving room for me on the outside, especially that the hairpin is so tight and that I play on a pad as well. I did save the highlights.

I prefer cockpit camera, and in F1 2020, I do not have it adjusted. Pad user as well and no assists. It allows me to be a lot more accurate in braking and apex speed. On codemasters games, driving on T-Cam does not give me a good feel for the car. Maybe I definitely need to get closer to the real life feeling to extract the maximum out of my driving. I started playing F1 2015 on T-Cam, and after a few weeks, I felt the need to use cockpit camera, and immediately, I was able to drive faster and more consistent, particularly in preserving tyres. If I have money to invest in a decent wheel and pedals, I’ll do it, and I might even decide to try for esports. I have been always wanting to get a wheel to get close as possible to realistic conditions. The fact that esports drivers compete to be the best leads to them in using the best available settings. I mean if the rules allow it, then you will do it right? Maybe they are convinced that some people believe cockpit camera is better than t-cam and vice versa? I prefer cockpit camera when I am playing. F1 drivers do not have a choice in the view that they select when driving on track...