PaulNbg

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You can't prevent drifting, because normal steering already leads to it, but within the drift you have a lot of grip. It's actually, as many people say, tarmac physics is like on gravel with more grip. In rallycross the physics on tarmac is more realistic and also different from gravel. Long drifts on tarmac make you slower and you can avoid them quite well.

I recommend to use the same setup for Australia, Greece, Wales and New Zealand. No need for bean-counting there.

Nobody needs medium tires. And above all, nobody needs hard tires. In the setup, medium tyres are always recommended and pre-selected by the game. What sense does that make? Every time I have to select softest one again. And why do some write "tires" and others "tyres" instead?

In DR2, the snow banks are really just like opaque air and have no physical influence at all. And if you dive too deep, you immediately feel the wall of stone. If the effect in DR1 was too strong, you could have reduced it. But is it realistic to turn it off completely, because Monaco has become more demanding and characteristic, and the water points have become more noticeable. The difference between wet and dry has become bigger. Why then is Sweden being castrated? I like variety. And I don't like arguments that always just result from "easier is better".

Assetto Corsa on the PS4 has several input filters for gamepad, 1. time delay of Input (has even two values to adjust), 2. speed sesitivity: reduction of the steering angle as the speed increases 3. linearity (call it gamma or something like that): reduction of the angle at the beginning of the stick. As always 4. the dead zone is added. I recommend 3%. Project Cars 2 has all that, but the steering is much less accurate because the last 22% of the stick is unused. The maximum steering angle of the wheels is already reached with 78% of the inclination of the stick and if you activate the stability control on PCars2 (you need it to compensate for the gamepad, especially when it rains) you always get the traction control activated. But I hate the traction control and with AC you can set it separately and the stability control even in many steps. The default setup of the cars is also bad in PCars 2 because many of the cars are for the road. In AC all cars are preset for the track and therefore don't rock too much. Conclusion: PCars 2 is badly playable with the gamepad. I recommend the good old AC. On the PS4 Pro it has a good frame rate.

The weekly event Group B in Scotland: was the hardcore damage on? My car was permanently damaged. (Because in online events is always set to OFF, regardless of what I set for SP) I think it's good to have it ON all the time. For everyone, of course, in fairness. In Poland I had a night race R5 in heavy rain. It was much too dark there, the headlights are too weak. When I watched the replay and tried cockpit view, I couldn't see anything at all. The harsh darkness is not realistic (headlights) and the rain effect on the windshield is also slightly exaggerated. Have a look at the side windows before the start, unrealistic, opaque like the glass of a shower cabin. Everyone can test this in his car in heavy rain, take a look through the side window, and he will certainly see more than in Dirt Rally 2 I like rainy day rides. At night, however, the clouds already make everything darker, and if it still rains, you can't see anything. But no Problem for the AI.

on PS4 I only play the new DR2, but make a comment here so that CM doesn't think nobody noticed: When you make "firmer" the springs, they actually soften. This also changes the height of the bodywork downwards. But in some cars (Lancer Evo X) the springs are so soft that if you make them even "firmer", the suspension will be at the bottom of the stop, which makes everything look harder when driving. But with the Impreza 95 and many older cars you can test this well.

PS4 Pro Version 1.13.0 On the new Impreza S4 the left headlight is broken in my case, it doesn't give any light either, only the right one. Nevertheless, the setup always shows that everything is supposedly fine.

RWD cars slip and oversteer even in reality if you accelerate too much, especially on tarmac. On gravel the rear tyres dig a slight rut in which they get some grip. FWD cars can oversteer if you stop accelerating (downshift) and steer too much.

None of us has driven in real, so we can only make a rough estimate and compare it with other games. I would be happy if the asphalt physics were more in the direction of Asseto Corsa, because I find it realistic. Differentials don't do enough and bump and rebound are also bad for me, just slowing down but not absorbing forces. Otherwise, it would be very interesting to see what real independent rally drivers would say.

Yes, that looks right, only the front spring rate would not have been adjusted so hard, because that doesn't look normal. The rear anti-roll bar can be adjusted a little softer.

Brake Bias should usually be around 70%. For Sweden less (further to the rear) and for asphalt more to the front, because the increased traction puts more weight on the front wheels and therefore more traction is possible at the front. (soft suspension favours this effect.) For almost all cars I reduce the Braking Force by one step. For Sweden even by two steps. Then it is also well drivable with ABS=1.

WRC 8 on PS4 Pro - Steering with a gamepad unfortunately doesn't react as fast (I mean the steering sensitivity or steering speed), but still playable, comparable to DR1. You can adjust the linearity (I mean the initial range) and this is called "sensitivity" in WRC 8. However, it remains less accurate than in DR, because the input that was deducted at the beginning of the game is made up again too quickly. Dead zone (steering play) and saturation is also adjustable. Keys can be assigned as desired, even clutch is possible. - The frame rate (fps on PS4 Pro) is clearly lower, but the graphics still don't look better, just a bit sharper. - Very few cars, instead only teams (livery) to choose from, boring. - Sound can't be set separately for surface noises, so gravel noise and asphalt squeaks are hardly audible. (With interior view this sounds better on gravel). - Engine sounds are too similar and not as characteristic as in DR. - Sweden is just a wide and smooth track, like white colored gravel, rides like on slippery asphalt - WRC Junior (R2 class in DR) offers only the Ford, unfortunately the car setup is completely denied during the career. (And yes, the standard setup is sh.) - Difficulty levels of the career: On "easy" you always get first, on "medium" you never get first. - Bug in the setup: during your career you are offered the asphalt values for gravel (also for Sweden). - Damage to the car can be set in several levels, but even at the highest level no enormous damage. Strong shocks make a difference, but everything below is ignored. Optical representation is weak. + a lot of nice tracks. (except Sweden) + Co-driver announcements are decent, maybe even better than in DR2, but sound a little more mechanical + Vibration feedback of the DS4 is good (but better down to 70, can only be adjusted in total) + tyre choice and dynamic weather. When it's raining, you can also get everything off with a chase camera, so that no big advantage as in DR2 + smaller puddles in the rain are also dangerous + Parts and tyres wear out much faster + career is definitely interesting. You don't fill up the garage, you have little income and as a manager you have to make sure that you don't slide too far into the red, free up jobs, improve your team and vehicle. You can also click through quickly if you're not up for it. For a change there are special events. Suspension rocks the car quite a lot compared to DR2 and remains strange even after adjustments. Car setups have incomprehensible explanations. Setting the differential to the right (to 100) locks, makes it more closed, firmer, the wheels turn more evenly, that's how I always learned to do it. (For acceleration, you can test it by putting one side on asphalt and the other on grass and then putting full throttle. But the cars here (100) will all (also front and all-wheel) accelerate more restlessly, which can lead to skidding. I explain myself by the changing pressure of the tires to the ground on bumpy roads or the shifting of weight when steering) Other things are abundantly adjustable, but the explanations are often puzzling. Some gears are unfortunately divided into too coarse gradations (5km/h). Drifting is not as smooth as in DR1u2. On asphalt, the physics are probably better than in DR2. (Reality: If you try to challenge 110% of your tire, you will only get 90% of the maximum possible value on asphalt. However, the asphalt physics in DR2 is more likely to give 110%, especially if the tires are overloaded by acceleration. (But this is only possible on gravel.) On asphalt, you must not steer too much, not accelerate too much and not brake too hard. It is also seldom advantageous to want to correct a missed braking point with lateral slipping. (Try all this in Assetto Corsa on the Nordschleife)) Monaco offers more grip. But it is not right that hard tyres are also recommended. They do freeze!? Conclusion: If BigBen would balance the steering with gamepad a bit and increase the supply of cars a lot, this game would be a decent competitor. Physics are quite convincing and on tarmac it might beat Dirt Rally 2.0 If then the FPS would be still. *** Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version) ***

I'm not a fan of the constant fog either, but why do people have to exaggerate so much? As if this event wasn't playable. Better a Finland with fog than no Finland at all.

The Ford R5 is still much too low even at maximum height. After every jump the car hits the floor. The "Fast Bump" is the right setting, because the suspension is usually pressed in quickly after a jump? If you adjust the springs on the other hand, it affects both the "Slow Bump" and the "Fast Bump". And on the rebound as well. One cannot turn off the function of a spring, but only prevent an additional amplification by the "Slow Bump, Fast Bump" setting, i.e. set it to -5, or even further amplify +5. In any case, I understand it that way, but I am not an expert either. But all that doesn't matter, because the settings of slow- and fastbump seem like a useless placebo to me. Can you prove that the setting does something? Many setup settings in DR1 are pure fake. DR2 is much better at setup, but I still think "Bump" is fake. Or the effect is so small that it's useless. Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator

What is not understandable about my statement? There are bumpers in the car-setup menu. What is their function? It would be new to me if only the springs were there, because they also increase the springback, also called rebound. In addition, I only want to dampen the fast Suspension, not the slow.

I think the bumpers are useless in the game. They were already useless in DR1 and Dirt4 and are now useless in DR2. And Finland offers the best proof of that. Some cars are much too low and you can't put them higher.

Fog is actually quite cool, but in the game it's everywhere and too even. It would be better if the fog was only there in some places on the track and then a little stronger. Wasn't that the case in Dirt 4?

You spend far too much time with all the setups. And there are many more events in Dirt Rally2.0 So I prefer to use the same setup for Greece, Wales, New Zealand and Australia. If my philosophy changes regarding the setups, I don't have to correct every single one. For Finland and Poland I also use the same. The other countries get their own. Germany and Spain are also too different. Baumholder gets a softer suspension, a higher body, a longer last gear and a shorter first gear for the hairpin curves. Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator

My explanation would be Toe-out angle on the front accelerates the reaction, but creates a counter-steering effect as soon as the weight acts on the outer wheel of the curve. Perhaps interesting with rear-wheel drive. Toe-in on the front reduces the reaction, but creates a steering effect as soon as the weight acts on the outside wheel. Perhaps interesting for front-wheel drive vehicles. During high-speed stages and on asphalt, both variants can cause inaccurate steering.

PS4 Standard Game v1.8.1 - HDR Freeplay In the top right corner, where the times are displayed, you can see continuously brightening rings or a brighter area around them during the night races. On the pictures here this is much worse to see (increase contrast of your monitor) but in the game with HDR it doesn't look acceptable.

Exactly the same bug I had on the PS4. (The game version was maybe older than the current one)

PS4 Standard Game v1.8.1 In Baumholder after the repair the car in front is always floating in the next screen. Every car in front without contact to the Ground.