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shortspecialbus

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5 New Car Smell

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    Simucube 2 Pro + Ascher B16M-USB + Sparco R383, 2x Thrustmaster Sparco Handbrake/Shifter, Heusinkveld Sprint Pedals

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  1. Yeah I dunno, I haven't changed my online name in nearly 20 years so I haven't run into a situation like that. I hope you're able to get it resolved, good luck!
  2. It's more "The social media manager doesn't know the consequences," which to me seems pretty reasonable. It's hardly a common request.
  3. shortspecialbus

    Psychology of Rally - questions and a video

    Manual sequential is key in so many ways. For setups - I strongly recommend checking out RALLY Technical's Channel on YouTube. His setups are excellent and have really helped my driving. I don't personally tweak them because I'm not any good at it and don't really ever know what I want aside from maybe gear ratio changes, but if you do enjoy tweaking them, they'd be an excellent starting point.
  4. shortspecialbus

    Steering Wheels, Shifting and Rallycross

    My mistake - I thought only Kubica was allowed to use that, but my info is apparently well out of date. Either way, having a single paddle with push/pull eliminates the problem of forgetting which paddle is which during heavy rotation - push is always going to be gear down (or however each driver has it set up) no matter the wheel's orientation.
  5. shortspecialbus

    Psychology of Rally - questions and a video

    Disclaimer: I'm not a top rally driver, I'm usually 10-20 seconds off the top time in leaderboards for time trial. 1.) No, never, although I'll restart sometimes. I try to roll with the punches, that's rally. 2.) No, not really? If it's a stage I'm unfamiliar with, I'll generally try a full speed run right off the bat to note any particular trouble points or spots where I feel the corner call is bad, and then I may do a low speed recce to try to get a better handle on some stuff like that. Some stages I just struggle with overall, I suppose, and I'm pretty garbage on all tarmac rallies (spain, germany) due to not really being able to wrap my head around the weird tarmac physics. 3.) I guess the aforementioned recce and more attempts at identifying trouble points and learning the corners leading to them so I can be ready when Phil calls what's actually a 2 left over crest as a 4 left. Some stages have problems with what I'd call incorrect calls (Poland has a lot of these, either a 2 called a 4 or just missing critical information like a caution keep in or something like that) or calls that just come too late (Scotland for example has a good number of these where even with the earliest call time, you're already on top of a blind corner before Phil even says the number of the corner. Just gotta memorize these.) I am somewhat bothered by the need to almost outright memorize certain stages due to the calls just not lining up with what I'd ever call them as, and I wish you could edit pace notes without using weird 3rd party programs that I don't want to bother with. 4.) A couple stages have a nasty corner combo right before the finish (that 4 right with a cliff to the left in Greece right before the finish line that's only a 4 right on the best line and a 2-3 right if you're not on that for example) but the ones that usually cause me more trouble are generally more in the middle of the stage I think. HOWEVER: the slowdown area on some stages is absolutely nightmarish if you're going full speed across the finish. If I'm not doing time trials, I wreck a distressing number of times in the slow down areas and I swear that no sane rally organizer would do some of those time control areas. They're obnoxious. The main suggestions I'd have to keep getting better are 1.) wheel rotation to 540 DOR if it's not already 2.) Go slower than you want to and build speed over time as you build skill rather than going McRae Flat Out all the time when you're learning. It's way more satisfying to complete a stage really well but 20 seconds slower than you wish you went than it is to continually wreck because you're going faster than you're capable of. Speed comes with practice. 3.) Learn weight transfer. DR 2.0 has pretty good weight transfer mechanics and honestly that's a massive amount of what gets you around corners, be it on-throttle braking, scandi flicks, or umpteen other things. Practice that stuff. 4.) Read this if you haven't (assuming the forum doesn't eat the link - it's almost all relevant in DR 2.0: Rally Driving Tips
  6. shortspecialbus

    Steering Wheels, Shifting and Rallycross

    I think the rallycross is neat, and generally well done minus some AI time issues, but it's not really for me and I don't really do it often. As far as shifting - First, I'd recommend setting your wheel rotation to 540 degrees, which matches modern rally cars. The "soft lock" doesn't seem to work well in my experience, and unless you want to change your wheel rotation for each car (there's a post somewhere that has what the actual rotation of each car is), 540 degrees is what I'd recommend - you don't have to turn the wheel so much, which should help in numerous ways, including paddle shifting should you continue that route. As far as paddle shifters, I don't think they're allowed in most rally cars. Pretty sure WRC banned them in 2011, minus an exception for Kubica at one point. [Edit: push/pull paddle shifters are the current normal for modern WRC cars - my info was out of date.] For rally cars with sequential shifters, which is most modern ones (depends on class, of course, the super production class for example would use a H pattern with a clutch, and anyone else without the money to put a dogbox in) with a push/pull stick around the area where a gear shift would be [Edit: or a single push/pull paddle on the steering wheel] As far as what to get for that, should you choose to do so, you have a number of options. If you want to stay with Thrustmaster, the TH8A has a sequential shift mode, and the Sparco Handbrake/Shifter is really nice, and also really expensive. I have two of those for my setup, one for sequential and one for handbrake. The TH8A is fine though if you don't want to drop the money. Outside of that, there are numerous other sequential shifters out there, whether Fanatec or a number of more niche (and expensive) brands. My personal recommendation if you're able and willing to drop the money is the Thrustmaster Sparco one, but I used a TH8A in sequential mode for a while before I got those and it was plenty fine. All that said, a huge number of sim rally drivers just use the paddle shifters and there's nothing wrong with that. Eventually you'll likely get the hang of it, especially if you have your wheel at 540 degrees of rotation.
  7. shortspecialbus

    Cannot create the first save

    Do you either have an overzealous virus checker or perhaps some sort of permissions restrictions? Are you able to access "Documents\My Games" and write to it?
  8. shortspecialbus

    Learning on the job

    Concur. Here's the number of miles between services for each tire, discounting rain and snow tires. Wet generally applies just for gravel as you normally want wet tires in wet tarmac Dry conditions: Soft: <= 20 miles Medium: <= 23 miles Hard: <= 35 miles Wet conditions: Soft: <= 22 miles Medium: <= 25 miles Hard: <= 37 miles Tires become "worn" at halfway through that range, and they continue to have better grip than the next hardest tire until they reach the end of that range when they become "used" and drop off sharply. The numbers I gave I don't think are hyperexact, but it'll be within half a mile of that number. As such, unless you're doing multiple stages between services, you almost always want Soft tires. DR 2.0 does not do the "medium tires are better in the wet than soft" that WRC 9 for example does, so that should not factor into your decision. The tire modeling is not that realistic, it's pretty much just distance based, other than wet asphalt is godawful with anything except the wet tires, and any non-asphalt tire is gonna be lousy on asphalt in Poland or Australia or whatever and not behave the same as an asphalt "Soft" would.
  9. shortspecialbus

    More in sorrow than in anger

    As a quick question, how many degrees of rotation do you have your wheel set at? Soft-lock in-game seems to be unreliable, so I have my wheel set to 540 DOR which matches modern rally cars, and that makes driving them considerably more straightforward (I didn't want to say "easy" here). If you have 900, or even 720, you have to do huge massive swings that take a really long time and you're going to have a lot more trouble controlling the car. If you want to be realistic for whatever car you're in, there's lists online somewhere about what cars naturally have what DOR, but I just set it to 540, don't worry about the soft lock since it seems very unreliable, and go with that. I'm not the fastest driver out there by any stretch, but I'm usually within about 15 seconds of whatever the top time is on most short stages, 25-30 seconds on longer stages, so not terrible either. Assists already got mentioned as probably being more of a hinderance than a help with rally driving, but I'll also say that automatic shifting is going to make things harder too if you're doing that. Sequential shifting allows you to avoid an upshift just before a braking point and/or corner where the higher gear could give you issues, and just in general you have less control of things. Anyways, good luck! If you already have everything I suggested set, then keep doing what you said you're doing with practice and it'll eventually kind of "click." This is also helpful, assuming the link doesn't get eaten or deleted by a mod: http://www.oldrallysport.on.ca/articles/Driving.html Have fun!
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