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11 New Car Smell

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  1. Stiddy1990

    New player help

    Hey Jimmy, you're very welcome mate. It can be tricky with engineer change of strategy but you get 30 seconds to accept the change. My advice in this respect is to just wait until you're in a comfortable position on the track i.e. a straight so that you can respond without losing control. Unfortunately it's not always that straight forward (pardon the pun), especially on tracks with a lot of corners in quick succession such as Sochi and Singapore but you'll get used to it and if you **** up you can always use a flashback. By experience it should be the right bumper that you use to respond to your engineer. Don't quote me on this though, I'm on the PS4 and it's R1 there. Setup wise I've always used other setups I've found online, simply because I just want to race and get the most out of my car using ability and I'm not in any way savvy with engineering and what each bit of the setup does for the car. The only thing I tweak are the tyre pressures now and again if I'm experiencing a lot of wear but as I've mentioned previously, over time you'll end up improving that element of your R&D and tyre wear becomes less aggressive. I'd love to get a wheel, peddles and a proper rig but it would cost a fortune as I'd want the Fanatec setup and unfortunately my salary and wife wouldn't agree with the cost of it! As I've said, any questions then I'm more than happy to help. That's what we're here for, it's a very helpful community on this forum and is the only forum I use. What I'll do is DM you my e-mail address as I'm not always on here and then we can communicate through that. I hope this helps. Thanks, Kieran.
  2. Stiddy1990

    New player help

    Hi Jimmy, firstly welcome to the forum and secondly welcome to the world of F1. I'm happy to help out and answer some of your questions, there aren't many 'guides' or manuals online to assist with understanding the sport, especially the rules and regulations. Rules Concerning the Changing of Components: The components that wear throughout your season are: ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) - this typically wears the fastest and is one of the components I invest in heavily when I start a season. MGU-K - this generates electricity that is stored in the 'Energy Storage (ES)' which is used for ERS (Energy Recovery System which gives you a boost of approximately 17 km/h when used) MGU-H - Generates heat which is again stored in the ES. Energy Storage (ES) - Energy generated from the MGU-K and MGU-H is stored in this which is where energy collects for you to use your ERS, generating an additional 160HP. Turbocharger (TC) - Self explanatory really. Control Electronics (CE) - Controls all of the cars electronics, essentially the motherboard of the car. You get so many components throughout your season, you need to use these sparingly because if you use more than what is allotted you'll receive a grid penalty. Really important - changing components after you leave the garage in Q1 incurs a grid penalty due to the 'Parc Ferme' rules. Once you've left the garage in Q1 there are only very minor changes you can make to the setup of the car. Gearbox Rules: During the game you get given an 'Event' gearbox and a 'Practice' gearbox. FIA rules stipulate that you aren't allowed to change your gearbox until it has been used across 6 races. Essentially you can change your gearbox after rounds 6, 12 and 18 without incurring a penalty. If you do change your gearbox outside of these windows i.e. before it's raced 6 events then you incur a penalty. My advice to you is to only take a component penalty when you're at a circuit with good overtaking opportunities e.g. Belgium, Spain, Monza because of their long straights and DRS zones. Don't go taking a penalty at Monaco for example as it'll just be a procession as overtaking opportunities are very few and far between. The Practice Gearbox has no limits on how many you can use. If you feel your performance is a bit poor in practice then it could potentially be your practice gearbox that is failing. Order another one, there is no penalty for this. TIP: If you're going to order any component (ICE, MGU-K, MGU-H, ES, TB or CE during Parc Ferme or a gearbox before it's been used for 6 races then I'd potentially take a big hit and order the whole lot. It equates to about 60 grid place penalties but doesn't carry over to the next race. I normally find that I only need to do this once a season, sometimes only in the first season as over time you'll invest in reliability R&D. Lastly it's worth running your components until you reach 60% of wear. If you can run it further then you should do because it means you're less likely to need to order new components, thus taking a penalty for the joy of it unless you're outside of Parc Ferme or of course have completed 6 races on the gearbox. Dynamic Weather/Tyre Rules: As you've experienced already, the game has dynamic weather and although it can be a pain in the rear, it's part of the game. When your engineer comes over the radio and tells you "There's a new strategy available on the MFD" all you have to to do is select 'R1' on the PS4 or whatever the equivalent is on the Xbox and it'll show you what tyre they suggest you go on and what lap to pit on. Normally they'll pit you that lap but be wary of your positioning. What I mean by this is at Interlagos in my first year at McLaren they boxed me onto Intermediates but it was on the same lap as my teammate and he was right in front of me so they did a double stack - a method of pitting two cars consecutively which is an art form when it works but an absolute car crash when it doesn't. I lost quite a few places because of this because the pit box couldn't release Lando into the pitlane due to incoming traffic. Tyres: There are 6 different compounds in F1: Dry Compound Hard - White striped tyre that is the most durable compound but also the slowest. The hard tyre is normally a tyre to practice on for quite a few laps as it stands up really well but I'd avoid using it in a race unless you have to pit early doors because of a shunt or puncture allowing you to go longer in the race, thus allowing you to make time up from the unscheduled pit stop. Medium - Yellow striped tyre that is in the 'Goldilocks Zone' for performance and durability. It's the medium speed and durability. Soft - Red striped tyre that is the fastest but wears the quickest. Bare in mind, hot and fast tracks such as Bahrain, Monza and Abu Dhabi as an example will chew these up quicker because the more heat in the tyre, the quicker it wears. Wet Compound: Intermediate - Green striped tyre that is used when it's raining but there is a clear racing line or dry area on the track, these tyres have an actual tread on them and work similarly to road tyres by scooping up the surface water and passing it behind the tyre, thus creating grip. Wet - Blue striped tyre that is used when it's properly bucketing it down, when the track has puddles on it and the intermediates no longer cut it. Rules: You get given a finite amount of tyres to use across the weekend, normally this equates to: Hard - 2 (1 practice, 1 qualifying/race) Medium - 4 (2 practice, 2 qualifying/race) Soft - 8 (3 practice, 5 qualifying/race) Wet weather tyres - you get an allocation of Intermediate and Wet tyres in a wet race, I'm unsure on the quantities but it's an ample amount. Set-up: One thing that's massively important more so these days is set-ups. What I mean by this is car set-ups, ensuring that you've got the right set up for your aerodynamics, tyres, suspension etc. There are two YouTuber's that I follow who publish their setups and do a 'hotlap' to show you where your braking points may be and tips of tackling each individual circuit. As @kenuf mentioned, Tom97 (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-jYK2AdVmH8LNcjTI_lI6g) is a great user to obtain set-ups from and also two more I use is Jaaames (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0Ene38yf-Y6movLKSvc0Iw) and TRL Limitless (https://www.youtube.com/user/JDisMoNsTeR). These guys are all e-racers and are really good. It's worth noting, experiment with the setups because they aren't all going to work for you. Each individual setup has pros and cons so play around with it. If you've got any more question's please feel free to drop me an IM on here if you can or drop me some contact details such as e-mail and I'll happily assist. Kieran.
  3. Stiddy1990

    Do AI tyre lockups have an effect?

    Several times Joe, I’ve won so many positions from an AI lock up and loss of traction. That’s one of the differences I’ve noticed from 19’ to 20’. The AI makes more mistakes whereas in 19’ I barely remember them making a mistake at all.
  4. Stiddy1990

    Renault DP World Team Engine Sound.

    Thanks for this, I’ll have a look. It’s missing that MGU-K noise as you say.
  5. Stiddy1990

    Monza track limits.

    It’s very nervous is the corner cutting system on this game. I’ll use Spa as an example, this year, cars were using the run offs at Turns 9 (Les Combes), 11 (downhill to Pouhon), 15 (Stavelot) and 20 (start/finish straight) clearly crossing the white line on all of them and not one car received a black and white flag. Do it on the game and you’re two more warnings away from a penalty. Makes no sense at all. This is one of the main reasons I don’t play online, it’s just too unreliable.
  6. Stiddy1990

    Driver Career

    On one of my previous careers on F1 2020 I went to Ferrari after driving for Williams for a season. I replaced Vettel BUT he was retiring in the game. I read something somewhere else that said if you go to another team you automatically replace the No. 1 driver so Vettel at Ferrari, Hamilton at Mercedes, Verstappen at Red Bull etc... which seems wrong IMO.
  7. Stiddy1990

    Renault DP World Team Engine Sound.

    This may have been raised in the past and I’ve searched but cannot find anything relating to this. I’m at Renault in Career Mode and have noticed the engine just doesn’t sound like a Renault engine. The engine in the real world sounds pretty much like a Formula E car. This link is on board with Danny Ric at Spa The in game engine just sounds ‘generic’. Any idea if a fix is going to come for this? It’s probably the best sounding car on the grid
  8. Stiddy1990

    Preparation for a race

    I do every single practice programme, normally over FP1 & 2 and on the odd occasion I’ll jump into FP3. I find it helpful to get a feel of the setup and track conditions by putting as much laps in without affecting my component wear. The ESR, Tyre Wear, Fuel Wear and Race Strategy I find are extremely important to setting yourself up for a good weekend as your setup can affect both fuel and tyre wear. Normally I’ll do it in this order: 1.) ESR - Make sure I’m deploying energy in the right parts of the circuit. There’s no point going off and doing other programmes before you know wether or not you’re deploying your energy correctly. 2.) Track Acclimatisation - I only do this for the extra RP. 3.) Tyre Wear - hoping for green or purple here otherwise there’s something wrong with my setup and it’s back to the drawing board to make tweaks. 4.) Fuel - I only aim for green here. There’s a fine line between competitive pace and being too slow to appease the programme parameters. 5.) Race strategy - at this point if I’m happy with all the above it’s about putting it into practice over 3/5 laps (delete as appropriate). I normally do 5 laps for the extra data. 6.) Qually strategy - always the last thought on my mind. Again if all the above are tickety boo then this should come naturally. Hope this helps!
  9. Stiddy1990

    No german circuits anymore?

    As mentioned, Zandvoort is a beast and you can really push your car to the limit there. I don’t think I’ve completed a race in Hanoi, I get really frustrated and tend to retire/crash out.