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  1. kevinb120


    It takes actual Drivers with mega-million dollar teams years to get Monaco 'right', well at least enough just to have a chance to survive a race. Don't expect to master it sitting on a couch with a little stick in your hands in any sort of expeditious manner... I've played this game for years with a wheel, and still invest about 3 hours of practice on EACH track before even thinking about advancing to qualifying. I do reset the first session many times to reduce wear and save tires, of course. And I'm 100% confident with Monaco from the driver view, and know every line to take. Still will put in about 2-3 hours practice, even if it's my 4th time around on the same F1 version with saved setups. And THEN it rains on top of it... And after 3 hours practice, an hour to qualify, if I crash out on lap 35 because of something that wasn't AI 'freakout' related, well, that's the end of the race for me and move on. (I do keep rewind on only for an AI mistake or a cat jumps on me when driving...) Monaco is one of the tracks I personally feel the most 'emersed' in and know it like I'm there, like Brazil, USA, Spain, Japan, Germany(god knows how many hours I have on those tracks considering Forza), and Australia. There are other tracks I always have a hard time even after 20 hours on it. Hungary, Bahrain, and France give me the most problems. Although in older versions, it seems like Bahrain was a lot easier to visually 'see' your way around it.
  2. kevinb120

    Moved from Auto to Manual Gears Help

    Don't forget your differential deceleration setting can generate lift-throttle oversteer(usually quite tame on default settings). Even though you know you need to bang down from 6th to 2nd for a given turn, hanging on to say 3rd gear for a split second can tighten up a turn JUST a little bit more than simply just going from gear A to gear B. You can really get a sense of it driving a properly modeled old Porsche 911 based racer in something like AC. If you can tame the old RSR 3.0 you'll see what I mean. Although F1 is nowhere near as ruthless as that car.
  3. kevinb120

    To assist or not to assist?

    I have a lot of experience with a wheel up to F1 2014 (then, kids...) until I took a hiatus until last month when a Fanatec setup with Buttkicker returned to the man cave 🙂 I can't figure out shift points for anything with the new sounds in the car(not to mention how much you can go past peak power, especially on Ferrari powered cars), so I use the audible beeps for shifting(didn't even know there WAS an 8th gear for the first few hours I was setting up FFB/hotlapping). I moved out my cockpit view to 55 so i could check the mirrors, the older game had a big old DRS light regardless of car IIRC. But it does give you situational awareness you cant get from a game so I leave the DRS tone ON. The two first lights on the Haas wheel are just too hard to spot without having a slight delay the AI doesn't have. I'm at 85% AI and raising steadily, 100% races, and use 50% TC if it's raining. I also have auto ERS management on. Have the halo bar disabled, but the Haas at least still has an antenna in the middle. Pretty sure they all do. As modeled in the game in cockpit view, it is way too wide as the human eye would not see so much of it IRL, even if it is represented accurately. I am on Xbox with a CSW 2.5 and the standard P1 wheel, so my button options are sparse and poorly placed for F1. The new Mclaren wheel was delayed so I may need to get an F1 rim, which seems excessive for XB gaming. I really wish they made the mid-priced esports F1 rim for PS in some version for xbox(although the Mclaren rim is pretty much that). With as little control options/button assignments as I have, ERS is a real headache and just not worth it vs someone with a working dial. Really hoping next-gen adds a lot to XB in this department, so I'm not spending any big bucks on a wheel until we know what we have next year. Usually I'll leave the racing line on in the turns in P1/P2 until I start to 'feel' the apexes and turn it off. It's a bit of a distraction when actually racing/qualifying as the car should be setup by then and mentally 'bound' to the track where it starts to slow you down.
  4. kevinb120

    F1 2019 FFB settings? Share

    EDIT: Final Settings in red After quite a few years out of the wheel game(had 5+ full seasons/everything on in F1 2014 in the 360/CSR days. Then, kids.... Finally back in it again and of course chasing settings. Currently 2.5 CSW with CSL Loadcell pedals on XBOX one. I just have the lightweight P1 general wheel to get started, the Mclaren GT3 is delayed(again), so may end up ponying up for a CSW F1 Wheel. But it's super light and responsive, just need to ignore the 'wrong' parts of the steering wheel and buttons are of course in terrible locations for F1 cars. Found most of the general direction of Fanatec settings pretty close, just a little too strong in overall FFB. Also, it's a PITA to get thrown into the silly scenarios and try to figure out FFB. I'm still a little green back in the saddle but used to run 100% everything full difficulty, so working back there. Still need to get out of 50% Traction control, but just running practice at Australia over and over trying to get the feel right. It actually loads up quite well with fairly low FB settings and getting faster by the minute now that I can DRIVE the game. Goofing off at 70% difficulty and raising steadily, still getting fastest P3 Laps in a Haas, I'll keep raising it until I'm around 8-10th fastest without cheating corners, then get this season started. 🙂 Anyway, newest drivers so some settings are a bit different than earlier posts doing the same thing(totally different menu now). Wheel: SEN: AUTO FFB: 100 SHO: 100(don't think it does anything on this wheel) ABS: Not sorted yet until I get BRF and game brake settings set. Usually like it at 95% of in game input once it's set up. DRI: -1 Still carrying plenty of load up at speed and some realistic wheel work flirting with curbs-little light unloaded, but more progressive loading of the tires sensation at speed. -2 Just got to be a bit too much work, especially when I go full length/full season. BRF: 40 (personal preference setting to match pedal/LC) FEI: 60, gets me that real 'rubber' feel without unrealistic chatter unloaded on straights. May vary on some tracks +/- 10. Kept knocking it down until the chatter JUST stays 'gone'. FEI % can change from track to track in most games depending on the fidelity in which a given track was modeled. Game: Vibration/FFB ON (of course) FFB: 60%. On Track ~18/Off Track ~25 personal preference, the CSW is still strong even at 0. Rumble Strips ~30 personal preference, may knock it up/down a bit for a track like SPA with less aggressive curbs vs Monaco etc. Also trying to match the wheel ffb to the buttkicker feedback 🙂 Damper 0 Understeer OFF Wheel Rotation 340, was mentally 'undershooting' my anticipated lines at 360. The Track/Rumble strip effects are fairly strong, I feel like I should get punished a bit for it though for when 'cheating' the grass or corners. Although If I were online racing I would zero these out as much as possible. Advanced settings: **EDIT: I Did end up swapping the 'Cluch(brake on 2 pedal CSL setup)' with the Throttle. It was a bit too stiff for full travel and I found myself forced to shift my feet too much, so I added a rubber bumper(square clear vinyl 3/4" square x 1/4") from the hardware store to remove 1/2" of travel and set 100% to the shorter travel. Works friggin' PERFECT, 5 minute fix, just stuck it on the stopper pad. Personally using a bit of throttle linearity at 25% to help modulate it in the heat of battle, particularly getting out of busy hairpin turns. Just couldn't find setting threads with all Fanatec updates and kept finding this particular thread, figured I'd bloviate here-especially on a meaningless half-day at work. I'll work on it a bit more and edit this. Just like when I was here 5-6 years ago endlessly tweaking. I also added the audible beep(s) for DRS and for Shifting. I hadn't played since the '14 edition and was going by feel and sound for a few hours running laps to get everything 'right' with my new setup. With virtually ZERO indication from sound or available visual cues I didn't realize there even WAS an 8th gear until I turned it on . And the 2 green light indicator on the Hass wheel for DRS just wasn't enough. I know these tracks for DRS well and had no idea if DRS was even open at first. Switched those two on and within 4-5 laps I felt like I hit hyperdrive and everything FINALLY grooved in the game. The rev limiter is WAY beyond the peak of the power band, so shifting just up to that is worthless. The newer engines have the most awful sound. Also changed field of view to 55 to get the mirrors 2/3rds the way in view to watch the wing, and better see my adjacent racers, and got rid of the HALO bar, the antenna in the center of the Hass that is still there is about what it would actually look like anyway IRL. Finally ran Melbourne full race @80% difficulty and ran 3rd until my tires just could not hold of Luclerc with 2 to go(Botas had a grid penalty). Still need to up the difficulty a bit until 6th is a great finish, but it felt pretty damn awesome as a whole I must say.