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Posts posted by G1bby

  1. Have you read the Codemasters frequently asked questions on this subject?

    Why aren't other players penalized for driving off the track?

    When you drive outside of the track limits, your car noticeably slows. This is also true for your opponent. However sometimes, due to latency in either your connection or your opponent's, this appears not to be the case. This is because of an issue known as "Rubber Banding" where the position of other players can be inaccurately displayed on your device.
    If you see, therefore, another player driving off track, this does not indicate that they are actually doing so.

  2. How does the matchmaking work?

    Duel mode aims to put you into a race against another player with a similar amount of Cup Points and, therefore, similar ability to yourself. The Performance Indicator (PI) value of each player's F1 car is not taken into account during the matchmaking process.
    There is the possibility during matchmaking of large differences between players regarding Cup Points earned being matched together. This is rare, but offers you the opportunity to earn a large amount of Cup Points, or have very little to lose.
    From the Codemasters website.
    To answer your second question no you don't always play a real player, your opponent can sometimes be a 'bot'. Sometimes this will be a fake profile and sometimes it will be a real profile but you'll play their bot.  

  3. 9 hours ago, Rot10Ronny said:

    I just tried Austin, go wide and end with corner cut penalty, I think they should add a “exceeding track limit” penalty, because corner cut is inaccurate.

    You don't even have to go wide, you basically touch a kerb in sector 3 and you get a looooong 'corner cut' penalty. It's silly and doesn't reflect F1 at all, as usal Codemasters are creating problems that weren't an issue to begin with.

    In Suzuka or France if you run wide onto the grass/run off area you spin out or go to 30mph in a split second, if they want to stop people going of track why can't they do the same thing instead of the lazy corner cut penalty which lasts until the finish line? At least spinning is somewhat realistic. When was the last time a F1 driver got an engine cut penalty for going wide?  

    • Agree 1

  4. 4 hours ago, Game4ce said:

    First position. At the Americas I get passed at the start with a perfect start before the first corner. Then the AI car runs off and I can not catch up! My car is too slow!

    You need to be aggressive and block the AI cars from overtaking. Once you're through the first corner you won't see them again but weave and move around to block them. 

  5. 4 hours ago, Game4ce said:

    That could be it😯

    It's not because you still get the +6.5s if you start at the front. Here is the official explanation;

    Update 14 - GP Events - Extra seconds added to Race End Series times

    When playing the Race End Series, the race timer starts counting as soon as the 3, 2, 1 countdown is over. However, it's only when you cross the starting line that the timer's animation appears on the top left corner of your screen.
    Therefore, the time which first appears on the top left timer corresponds to the time spent between the moment the 3, 2, 1 countdown was over and the moment you crossed the starting line and entered sector 1, whereas the top right timers correspond to the sector times and the first sector time starts only when you cross the starting line.
    Since these timers don't start at the same time, there is a difference between the two times. This is something that affects all the players, therefore, no player is at a disadvantage.

  6. 2 hours ago, elimmel said:

    Apparently there was a glitch with the update and some could race with full PI. It’s now fixed and CM is going through the ladder to remove times clocked during the glitch period. 

    dang, made me reset for nothing. 
    if I leave the reset alone, will it lapse after some time and go back to original?

    As long as you don't validate an overall time thta is lower than what you did before you'll be alright. 

  7. 10 minutes ago, JD111 said:

    Thanks, i'll move to tilt and start from scratch, easier way to do it then learning that later.  Can I get away with low assists or is it better with them all off?

    Even low assists will make you +1s a lap slower. Practice with one or two bars and when you're comfortable turn them off. 

  8. 1 minute ago, JD111 said:

    yeh i do, i havent been playing that long and just wanted to get some tracks so play with all of them turned on


    Sorry I just edited my post. 

    I used full assists when I first started playing which was fine depending on what you want form the game. I wanted to get faster so I slowly practised in single player mode without assists. I started playing using tap but switched to tilt about two months ago as it is faster. 


  9. 5 minutes ago, JD111 said:

    thanks, i'll give the assists off a go.  Best to play with buttons or with just tilting the phone?


    Do you have every assist turn on to max at the moment? 

    Turning all assists off will gain you about 3s a lap. Braking assist is the worst, it will slow you down in places that aren't necessary and overbrake in other corners, practise on getting that to zero as fast as possible. It'll take a lot of work in single player but it will be worth it. 

    Steering assist is also bad, it makes you stick to the racing line so you can't go out wide to take corners faster in higher gears.

    Stability is the least important but you should aim to get this down to one ortwo bars. 



  10. 1.      The controller is your safety rating and is supposed to be an indicator of how ‘safe’ a driver you are, red means you have a low safety rating, yellow means an ‘average’ safety rating and green is good.


    In reality it means very little as you tend to get penalised for any accidental corner cutting and I often get penalised when my opponent hits me. Also, with the BOTs being so slow or suddenly stopping, it’s almost impossible to do a race without hitting them. 


    2.      Aero used to be key but lightweight now is. My preferred set-up at every track is power – 478, Aero – 347, Lightweight – 1000, Handling – 289, brakes – 90. You may not be able to copy this set up if you’re new but look at the ratios of how the points are distributed and do the same. This set-up works at every circuit and I use it everywhere. In events I may use a little more aero at certain circuits or more power at others but this is absolutely fine for duelling.  

  11. For me there was very little wheel-to-wheel racing before the collision shield, 99/100 I was taken out by my opponent at the start. 

    I'm not a huge fan of the shield because it has taken a bit of an unknown from the game, but I've won a whole lot more duels because of it. At first people tried to ram me at the start of races and they'd just go off the track, now they don't even bother and the races are much cleaner because of it. 

  12. If you have a legendary card in your set-up, for example lightweight booster, it will add 30% lightweight to your set-up. If you then take out a card worth 150pts which is say 120pts lightweight and 30pts power it's real worth is 120+30% = 156pts + 30pts power = 186pts.

    So if you're new 190pt card doesn't contain any lightweight then your PI won't change much.  

  13. 12 hours ago, mobileracingfan said:

    Most of the RUL (Race You Later) crowd drives like ahats.  You won't get a clean race everytime you see "RUL".

    There are lots of poeple who have started using the RUL abbreviation in their name who have no connection to Denis. I've met a number of them who I've never seen on his streams and who then start to ram you.

    The ones who are genuine RUL racers are all clean and respectful.