Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 New Car Smell

Gaming Setup

  • Platforms
  • Peripherals
    Steering Wheel

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. IgorPr

    DiRT Rally 2.0 Head to Heads

    Maybe, if the approach is to "simulate" reality the braking and handling should be tweaked. But, Codemasters employees are clever, and there must be some reasons why group B cars behave like that. It could be because it creates mysticism, kind of legend when someone chooses to drive group B 4WD (and I wonder if marketing department already studied it and decided that to make a game more attractive in that aspect, and so they positioned group B 4wd cars as the fastest). There is a myth to this day that they are "the fastest" WRC cars... because of horsepower, and aggressive aerodynamics. Maybe it is just a coincidence this whole unbalance Let it be my example, when I first entered the game Dirt Rally 2.0 I started career with a group B audi 4wd (hype, part of history, what it meant to WRC)... just because I like the brand, etc and Rallycross with the Audi... then I realized that I do not have enough time to fix the Audi Quattro when I arrived to club level... I was driving with a damaged car usually at the final stages in the rally (not enough engineers to fix it)... But because of history I went directly to a Group B car... just to change to a Lancia Fulvia then, due to free repairs
  2. IgorPr

    DiRT Rally 2.0 Head to Heads

    Well, you can compare Group B 4wd to R5 or 2000cc... and Group B 4wd in Dirt Rally 2.0 are faster (usually) .... For me the Lancia Delta S4 is one the fastest cars of the game (if not the fastest, maybe Peugeot 205 group B some people write)... while in real life there is no way an old Group B 4wd could outperform any of the modern WRC, I could even write that any WRC of this century would destroy a Group B car in gravel (and tarmac also... ) not because of horsepower and torque, but better suspensions, brakes, better tires, faster gearboxes.... This is not a good example, but a lot of motorcycle riders (50+ years) that had a past with a little bit circuit experience told me... just by changing the tires of some of their old bikes (2 stroke 250cc - 500cc) to the new ones that carry the last rubber innovations the improvement is ABYSMAL.... imagine new suspension, brakes, gearbox So... As you can see regarding stage times the game is unrealistic (Unless they developers say that all Group B cars have received the latest Ohlins or Intrax suspensions, new tires, brakes, etc.)
  3. IgorPr

    DR2 questions

    navernoe, I believe I understand you... for example in my case I usually have no problems with "low speed" turns/corners... but when it is 5th right or 6th right... if I am not cautious I tend to crash with group B 4wd for example... and if I am cautious I lose time.... some 5th I can go full throttle and some 6th I have to brake and reduce 1-2 gears so it is difficult to judge only with the pacenotes they give us, without having the possibility to change them Maybe I am a mediocre driver (as you can see by my results), but my fast approach to a stage in daily (or weekly, monthly) is to visualize the stage (mini map) and remember before starting just a couple of difficult corners (if it is in the first part or the last one, etc). The problem is, you can visualize hairpins, square, but not when the road narrows, when you have elevation changes, etc. One thing I do not do (and I should) is to create a Word document with every stage and read before starting the stage (and write a couple of words after finishing the stage - keeping the text it in 5 lines or so, so it is quick to read) with the spots and turns that tend to give trouble. Obviously the best way is as you can see not only to check the minimap before starting the stage, but driving it between 3-5 times in time trial or custom championship to replicate more or less the conditions and to familiarize with it . This is a huge problem for me... I can drive like a grandmother and lose 1 minute - 1 minute 20 seconds to the best times on daily (on +10k stage)... or I can risk it all and to try to get good times (5% of the cases)... or practice the stage a couple of times and then go for it (i usually do not do that, but the times are better). But if you have time, feel free to practice the stage, and at least one time with very slow approach before going full speed... this is what most of rally drivers do, so it is common practice. Just by curiosity, which cars did you use in H2RWD and H3RWD to advance? and which car are you using with group B rwd? with group B RWD I can barely control the Lancia 037 (and I believe it is the fastest for me), but for example right now I always use BMW M1 in daily events of group B RWD and it is impossible for me to drive it, I always crash at least one time in every stage... while I did manage to control the Lancia 037 (more or less)... I just can not understand how there are people that can drive it... But then for example with Lancia Stratos a lot of people have complaints... and for me it is one of most enjoyable cars, in Argentina if I do not crash I usually get very good times (I only have problems when I reach high speeds with the Stratos, but it does not happen in Argentina)
  4. IgorPr

    DR2 questions

    They are also my baseline somewhat... but I also do trial and error, and know something about cars (not a lot...) There are a lot of books and texts regarding setup, but mostly oriented to circuit racing. I can not think in one oriented to rally right now I believe racing line will differ with car and the speed you carry on... But may I ask you... How did you get to masters (Classes and cars) and which controller do you use? It is quite an achievement... Elite in Rally is where I am stuck with Lancia/mini H1, did not try other cars thinking these are the most suitable ones You must have very fast reactions to be able to get to masters without knowing exactly the pacenotes. simple explanations https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.reddit.com%2Fr%2Fdirtgame%2Fcomments%2Fav77sm%2Fdirt_rally_pace_note_chartcheat_sheet%2F&psig=AOvVaw3gvGkiGdbtMa50tG-S007y&ust=1589633939695000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCMDXz4T2tekCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=http%3A%2F%2Fblog.codemasters.com%2Fdirt%2F04%2Fco-driver-calls-explained%2F&psig=AOvVaw3gvGkiGdbtMa50tG-S007y&ust=1589633939695000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCMDXz4T2tekCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAI Not really, there are class comparisons, from GTR Technical (with complete videos), Skyrex.. and a lot of other users I also do not understand how the engineers work really ... one thing I can assure that your car will be repaired in less time (allowing you to select more things to repair or switch to normal repair, or even replace the part you choose without incurring in penalty times). I am missing only one engineer, and the repairs continue to cost a lot of credits, but I hardly ever can not repair the car completely in a rally at service points. Probably they do know it perfectly (not in time trial, but daily events). In time trials I have multiple top 100, and hardly ever I can achieve top 200 in weekly.. In daily events I never got top 200, maybe once or twice.. and as you can see I can not even reach masters in career rally... (must say I only tried with H1 in career mode... maybe I should switch to 2000cc where I have more success in weekly events, or H2 RWD)
  5. How well are you doing on daily events of rallycross? how far are you from World Records? I can hardly ever get into category 1, I am amazed at how fast are some guys In my case I do agree that there are general tendency to have more or less the same setup in most of rallycross cars, but when you get to the fine point where 1 sec per lap matters, and a lot, you begin to see that it is not so easy to set up a car in rallycross. I am less than 2 seconds away from WR in some rallycross tracks and gaining time right now is a little bit difficult I will give you an example, I struggle a little bit in elite championship with the polo S1600... i usually win everywhere, but now in Estering (germany) I have to settle barely to qualify for semifinals and I decided to investigate what are the best settings for the Polo.. so far I would recommend (I do not know the settings for the pros/aliens): - toe out front at max (to the left), negative camber maxed front and rear (to the left), toe in rear max LIKE IN EVERY CAR - brakes: it depends how you drive, in the polo I leave it in Estering at 2034 Nm (i do not block the tires with higher strength, but I do get slower times), 74% front bias.. depends on the car - Differential: again, there are multiple variants, and a lot of them work, in my case LSD driving lock max, LSD braking lock min, LSD preload min... depends on the car - Gearing: funny thing, I have the gearbox set to arrive 180 km/h in Estering, while this guy does not touch 175 and yet he is one second faster than I... but the thing I am exploring is that he uses only 5 gears, while I use 6 gears, he does not even top out in 5th in the straight while I am at redline. I use final ratio 0,162, 0436 1st, 0,506 2nd, 0,580 3rd, 0,699 4th, 0,843 5th, 0,968 6th and I am wondering if that this is my biggest problem or the braking.... our lines are very similar (and I would say in gravel I even have a little higher speeds than him in general) - Damping: firm at 5.00 everywhere + front and rear bump division at 0,60 (middle) LIKE EN EVERY CAR - Springs: lowest height front and rear, firmest spring rate and roll bar front and rear LIKE IN EVERY CAR so far I have found one guy pulling 34.xx lows while I have to make enormous effort to get 35.xx mid. The worst is that I carry more speed than him on straights...
  6. IgorPr

    DiRT Rally 2.0 Car Setups

    One quick question, I try sometimes your setups and I find some of them very helpful. I did have a lot of trouble with Lancia Fulvia in Scotland heavy rain, and just by lowering camber, and loosening the diff 3 clicks (as you have written in one your videos...) the car behaviour was strange and I was losing a lot of time But the question is, I have already seen your video of H1 comparison class... but "new" locations like Finland make me wonder Is the Mini overall a faster car than a Lancia Fulvia as today? I tried them in a lot of wet stages in time trial (specially Scotland where I struggle a lot) and I am slightly faster with the Lancia, maybe because of having 500 kms with it... And in dry I am faster by a huge margin with the lancia Finland for example (with my actual driving).. I am looking for the easiest car to progress in elite career mode and so far class H1 was good for me (in pro, club) A lot of people and usually the ranking tells otherwise... that the Mini has a slight advantage, excluding maybe Finland, Poland, Australia (Spain cause of long straights ?)
  7. PJTierney, I really like the Mg Metro, but in time trials at least in my case I was losing too much time. Strangely I think I get more or less the same prices in daily events with the Delta S4 than with the Audi Quattro (must write Delta S4 is stock without engine upgrades, and Audi completely upgraded) but I did feel an improvement in Group A with the Lancia Delta HF Integrale I have seen this video from a user of this forum, and to my suprise could not believe that he barely has differences in his shakedown times (well.. maybe default setup, medium tires have something to do.... plus the short distance, maybe his driving is superb...) between Lancia Delta S4 and Audi Quattro. Confirmed that MG Metro is "slow" regarding other cars in this class. I was kind of fast with the Audi (in my own league and with a lot of things to improve, sometimes losing 1' in a long stage compared to WR, or even more)... but I lacked consistency and was just crashing a lot... With the Lancia I feel a tiny bit more in control Regarding daily and weekly challenges I am quite confused now, how is determined the category, in order to give the credits from category 1 o category 2? Because I believe that I am always in the first 25% of users (maybe I am wrong) A week ago I was getting category 1 prices with Lancia Fulvia, Lancia Stratos, and then everything else category 2... right now I drive more or less the same... and get always category 2, I am near 1000 place always... but before I was getting (hardly ever) category 1 prices, and now always category 2 gleylancer571, Hardly ever I get 200.000 credits per day (mainly due to missing R5 cars, H2 fwd and quite a fer more classes) ... but the upgrading money on engine mapping and then to unlock the configuration (tuning) plus other things (durability of suspension, brakes, etc) were consuming my credits in most of the cars Now with the Fulvia in rally career mode, Corsa in Rx career mode I am focusing a little bit more in upgrading engineers (I only have 2), my copilot and Crew Chief are already maxed out It is very strange, I did New Zealand (weekly event) with the Lancia Delta HF and I have found it very easy to drive, maybe I was not fast enough or the location/setup favoured me but a very enjoyable car, more than any Subaru from Class A I must write ... Funny thing, I was winning by minutes every career rally with the Fulvia after switching from Audi Quattro (my skills I believe remain almost the same, with the Audi I only won MonteCarlo by minutes, and I could have won Argentina by minutes) until I got to Scotland with heavy rain with the Fulvia. Losing a couple of seconds per stage and laughing a little bit... Maybe locations had favoured me until now... MonteCarlo, Germany, Argentina and New Zealand with easy wins everywhere
  8. It is just a game, not a problem.... 320.000 credits spent (or whatever it costs the bmw), but I like it more than the Porsche that I have in r-Gt... and I am seriously using it in all the events of r-gt It is a shame that the repairs cost credits, so I am not using it in rally career, Fulvia instead there right now.... Now there is a weekly AI challenge Group B... I have my completely upgraded Audi Group B available but I am seriously thinking of buying Lancia Delta S4... I have already driven the audi quattro against daily challenge from today with AI in new england and the destroyed me... 8th there are 9 stages in Australia, I am just not going to win that rally with my actual skills in an Audi right now I believe. I have tried the lancia in time trial and it is quite managable driving, more forgiving than the audi, it takes better max height regarding handling (that I use in Australia). which level/difficulty of IA I will be facing in than challenge? Is it Lancia - the fastest car from Group B 4wd in this game? (overall, or at least in Australia) is it the easiest to drive from group B 4wd, or the mg metro falls in that category better?
  9. Perfect explanations fellows! I feel ashamed thinking that there would be gravel wet tires with big blocks to have better grip in rain. Not more headlights repairs, and maybe I will stop changing gearbox and engines, just only normal repair them to save credits. And do the driven kms in showdown (or maybe test lap in English) add to the research engine mapping in career? and what about it in daily, weekly events? Are the mapping upgrades to the engine always beneficial or there are some locations/stages that would benefit from a more conservative mapping? (thinking in maybe something purely of slow speed corners in Argentina, etc) I am just suprised how at club level (something "easy" would I expect) I was overwhelmed by the AI in Wales, my pace was not completely bad, I believe +40" to +1' from WR on every stage and with mistakes from my side (I did worse in Monaco and get the win by several minutes)... will try the Fulvia in career mode for the first time to see if I can keep up with the AI... did not manage to promote from the club with the audi quattro PD: I also wonder if I could replicate in time trial the conditions of particular stages that I get in career mode, combining rain/night or snow/night in order to practice it
  10. So, basic questions after 9 days with the game, not related with rally school, but maybe I will try to seek help... for example I struggle driving at Wales with the Audi Quattro, losing time in Club level (career mode)... but it does not bother me right now (I have already seen SkyRex's video and maybe will comment my experience on slow rebound and fast bump on the Audi, although I do agree completely that the ride height should be set very high)... after winning monaco by several minutes I am losing 20-30 seconds per stage here (again: not worried because of a lot mistakes from my driving) I am doing not so good with an Audi Quattro in Career mode, currently at wales, 2 stages remaining, I have available new tires at service and it is raining (hard rain).... And I only have 3 types of tires for choosing: soft/medium/hard... In Monaco I did have the choice to put wets, and I happily did... but here no wet tires Why they do not offer wet tires in this case? Do I have to unlock the wets with the training of my engineers or what? what does the game expect me to do, drive with softs/medium in flooded stage with water? Next questions: which are the main differences between fast repair, normal repair and replace? (apart from the amount of credits) Do the cars run slower if I do not fix broken headlights? I have several cars with destroyed headlights and I do not know if I should fix them (if no night stages coming...) Why I can not buy new cars such as new Lancia Delta S4 or Lancia Delta HF... only used ones appears selling... Are the used ones slower/worse in some kind of things? what if they were totaled a couple of times? thank you for reading
  11. I will try daily and weekly AI (+ events that gives more credits in daily), now in career elite rx I struggle a little bit with the corsa.. i get the wins... but I have to use all 5 restarts usually per event (plus practice in time trial 20' before every event to dial the setup a little bit) ... I have to just finish abu dhabi and will be in master... but it is time consuming right now.... i spend almost 1 hour per event or even more to get the win... and have to sweat a lot... thinking to change to VW Polo maybe when in master to earn the credits... because with the corsa I will definetily will not be able to win races in master in career mode I already have a lot of problems in club with audi from group B, will change to Fulvia or something else when I reach pro (if I reach... with my 8th place in Argentina, and one 2x place for not restarting in another event and only Wales remaining)... it just eats credits, will wait for better times or buy the delta s4 that in time trial I appear to be a couple of seconds faster in career mode, which categories/cars are the easiest to win in master? or should I stick with Fulvia/Corsa? After winning master, will I have the possibility to run again and again that championship in order to earn credits? Thank you guys, very kind of you... Will check those video guides to see then if I can become a better driver (in this game), at least in rallies I have a lot to learn from what I see PD: I have learned the hard way that the repairs of the bmw costs credits (just as you wrote that gleylancer571,, I bought the m2.. hahaha)... I was hoping to change to audi quattro to bmw m2 in career mode, but will not happen probably unless you tell me that is the easiest car to win championships... it is another credit pit
  12. I bought one week ago Dirt Rally 2.0 super deluxe, I believe it is the same that "game of the year" edition... I can not recommend you buying any other version, because you will miss some sort of DLC... And just by how the stages and locations are, with the 58 DLC if you are a rally fan you will be missing diversity (at least I am, there are plenty different cars, but not enough locations and different stages). Good thing is that you have rallycross, and there you really have a lot of circuits and in that department I really can not complain, they have done a good job on rallycross (i even like it more than rally in this game, and I am a rally fan not rallycross follower). Another good thing is that you start with 2.400.000 credits, and you can accelerate the process in some things. And 26 cars in the garage or something like this in career mode just when you begin the game
  13. Well, I want to thank you all for your advice. You were all very kind trying to help me. Due to this credit system I do have a huge problem in the economy of the game in career mode... I just can not keep up with the pace, and keep losing credits. Now at 1.5 millions. I am no longer buying cars, but the upgrades on the ones I have are killing me (+ repairs)... maybe I should stop doing dailies and weeklies with the cars with medium/high repair costs... Last two days I focused in dailies instead of career and it just drains the credits out... (I did it because I have read that dailies could give "free credits", and than again.. maybe I am focusing wrong trying to get into category one and upgrading cars, and I should just chill and drive cleanly, no damage at all and get category 3-4) Question about dailies, just getting barely into the category one gives the same amount of credits than doing top 100? What are the best strategies in career mode to earn credits quickly/easily? or maybe I should focus completing rally or rx career ... do they give a lot of money at master level? I am elite in rx, but struggling just a little bit because of using the corsa due to having free repairs... But even the corsa with free repairs does not net me a lot of credits in rx. It gave me 250.000 for the championship at pro and 50.000 for every event... and for completing every event I have to spend 30 minutes if not more... in rally I have stopped using the Audi Group B in club level career mode because it is pit dragging money (will wait for better times to retake, I am the middle of the championship), the engine at high tier usually asks me to change it after 1 rally... and gearbox and other parts are not forgiving neither with the costs. Should I always do the fast repair? or keep changing complete parts when asked and normal repair in order to increase durability? Thanks again for your help
  14. IgorPr

    Questions: Realism and Assists Settings

    I should point out that if I remember correctly, at least Audi in Group B did not have hand brake (only for rear wheels), it was incompatible with the diffs, at least until late 86. They did have something but it locked all 4 wheels. I can not say if others cars did or did not have hand brake for rear wheels. I can not assure that Audi in Group B did not have traction control or ABS... they were constantly trying things and a lot of people do not know the truth. An intelligent traction control is viable, and there were no strict regulation those years.. so... For example, I should search in youtube, but the last cars in Audi from Group B could change easily gears without using clutch (you can do it in any manual car, but not so easily as shown in that video, it could be seen clearly - so I suspect semiautomatic transmission they did have indeed). If I have time next days I will try to search in of the documentals, they do not say anything about that feature... but the footage speaks by itself. I have no time right now, but here they explain more or less the feature... but there were a video testing that gearbox or a car in rally using that gearbox ... (https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/audi-sport-quattro-s1-e2-drives-h-pattern-but-appears-sequential.143634/) https://youtu.be/Px1o2lvv1CI
  15. Thank you for your answer, already bought a VW Polo S1600 for rx a couple of hours ago. Will not buy any car soon. Money is tight, I am at less than 2 millions again. Maybe you can help me with some other questions if you do not mind, 1st, cars in the garage can have the upgrades in engine, but the question is, the cars in free practice "are not as powerful as a fully upgraded car"? In order to get the maximum of the car (speed/acceleration) I should buy it in career mode and install all the upgrades? 2nd this is hard to ask... how do I know if I should put soft/medium/hard tires? it is related with kms, terrain, style of driving, all the things combined? Obviously in all the day events I put softs, but in weekly challenges, when I have 3 stages without service.. How should I guide myself? I come from rfactor2, assetto corsa and the biggest downside of this game is that I can not monitor my tire pressure, nor I can change it... And I can not see exactly after completing events the degradation of my tires... (only in between some service checkpoints... but that is not enough to guide me in a right way and I am not able right now to properly know which compund of tires to choose when) 3rd If I have the car in career mode participating in rally, can I use it for daily/weekly event between 2 rallies or I should buy exactly other one to be able to do both things? I have my Audi Group B in Argentina Catamarca career mode, but there is an event of Group B in daily or weekly challenges, that is why I am asking. Have a nice day