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Flash42G

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Everything posted by Flash42G

  1. Flash42G

    Struggling to make the turns

    So did you insist your friend record a video before you believed him? There was no high horse, I just offered my experience and said it didn't match your absolute statement. Anyway, we're good now, thanks. I didn't mean for my statement to sound insufferable - I apologize. Re "his/her" - that's been the traditional reference when a person's gender wasn't known, and I did not wish to presume or assume. Absolutely no offence was intended, I was trying to avoid offence - I'm not familiar enough to be comfortable knowing when and how to use they/them. No googling involved, and certainly no insult intended. My apologies if I did cause offense, I will try to get the accepted pronoun usage correct in the future.
  2. Flash42G

    Classic car setups

    This goes back to the frequent request to be able to filter the Time Trial leaderboards - the times for McLaren MP4-13 are there on the leaderboard, they're just buried a few hundred or thousand rows down. The only way to find them is to scroll, scroll, scroll, and watch for 'McLaren' to flash by. As with the other times on the leader board, you can click on the entry, and it will give you the option to load the setup to your car. Make sure to save it to your own setup saves so that you don't have to do the 5 minute scroll again!!!
  3. Flash42G

    Struggling to make the turns

    Sorry, I am not wasting my time creating a video for this discussion. I've done just such a disconnect or power off/on many, many times in the 4 months I've had the Fanatec hardware - the driver recognizes the pedals and wheel when they are connected, and remembers the calibration for the unit (after it has been set for the first time). Simple, done, no rigamarole required. I'm not waving credentials, I'm telling you that it works as I have described. To everybody else besides lalyrn - if you're using Fanatec wheel/pedals, I suggest you try not calibrating every single time you turn on your computer and see if the system is indeed not calibrated properly or if it retains the initial calibration. Try it yourselves, no need to take his/her word for it or mine. Done. Have a good day.
  4. Flash42G

    Struggling to make the turns

    No, you're absolutely correct - for ONE time. The first time you use the Fanatec pedals, they certainly do need to be calibrated. ONE TIME. They do not need to be calibrated again unless you perform a driver update. It states that right in your copied image - "When the CSL Elite Pedals LC were powered without have done a manual calibration yet or after a firmware update the CSL Elide Pedals operates in auto calibration mode. (...) To calibrate each pedal press every pedal lever from initial mechanical position ... ONE TIME". Please read again - "when powered without have done a manual calibration yet"; "or after a firmware update". ONLY THEN do the pedals need to be manually calibrated (or auto calibrated by moving through full range). After that initial time, they do not need to be calibrated again unless you change the firmware. Sorry, I let my engineering and IT credentials help me read the documentation thoroughly and perform the prescribed procedures properly. No judgement involved. I don't just skim the first sentence and say "Aha!!!" as you seem to have done. You're still wrong, your own quoted document proves it. Geez, all you needed to do was add a qualifier or two, like "in my experience", or "as far as I've seen"... but you're still insisting that the manual calibration every time you power up the system is an absolute and applies to every pedal system. It doesn't. You don't need to start throwing out insults, either. You made the claim, I politely offered a different perspective to suggest that your claim wasn't universal or absolute. Now you've proven that point for me. Thanks. To be perfectly clear, the Fanatec documentation is absolutely correct - you do need to calibrate ONE TIME after a new install or installing new firmware. After that, calibration is not required, even if you dare to power off the system or components. My experience over 4 months with my Fanatec system corroborates that documentation - and also proves you to be incorrect in your absolute all inclusive insistence.
  5. First off, a reminder that the Advanced Paddle Module dual clutch mode only works in Windows 10 versions. Here's the PDF of the QuickGuide from Fanatec: https://fanatec.com/media/pdf/60/cc/63/CS-RFORM-V2-QG-EN-WebmNXxBBYx05pfX.pdf First, you have to have button 24 (the middle of the 3 rotary switches in the middle) set to position A. Then map/bind the clutch to the analog clutch lever of the APM. Then follow the guidelines of setting the Clutch Bite Point Modes on the second page of the QuickGuide. There is also a scan code to quick-link to a YouTube guide to setting these up. I believe you also have to enable the game UDP telemetry mode - there's a post/thread either here or on Fanatec forum about the telemetry, I will try to find it. Cheers, Gordon Back again - I recall now that the UDP telemetry requirement is for the rpm LEDs and flag LEDs built in to the Formula V2 wheel to work in F1 2019 or F1 2020, again only on PC Windows 10 versions of the sim. As for the dual clutch - I don't know if this is the video that comes up with the code scan from the QuickGuide, but it's a YouTube video about setting the bite point with the APM dual clutch levers in F1 2019: I set it up in F1 2019, and actually haven't revisited it to see if I need to adjust the bite point for F1 2020 - but that's because I can get good starts that keep up with or beat the AI starts. Additional note - the dual clutch paddles only work on the grid at the start of Formation Lap or Race, and they work as a regular clutch for leaving the pit box. They don't work anywhere else on track, or during an event. You can't just stop on the track and practice a start - it must be a Formation Lap or Race start. Hope that helps!
  6. Flash42G

    Struggling to make the turns

    So you can state unequivocally that I am wrong, and can absolutely reject any suggestion that you are wrong? 🤣 I didn't state absolutes that ALL and EVERY pedal setup requires calibration every time you restart the system, you did - and honestly, no need to ***** foot around any more, you are wrong. That is not an absolute condition. I am an engineer by education and practice, I'm pretty familiar with testing processes and requirements. Before you repeat the nonsense - No, just because I work in IT and just because I'm an engineer doesn't mean I know everything - no engineer would ever claim that. I don't not notice stuff, and I certainly do not make claims that I haven't specifically looked for, noticed, and verified. I noticed. You are wrong. My Thrustmaster pedals on Xbox did not need recalibrating every time I powered them up. My Fanatec pedals on Xbox and on Windows 10 do not need calibrating every time I powered them up. I know how to check calibration, I would notice if they were not providing full range. Sorry to burst your bubble. Your absolute statements applying to all instances are wrong.
  7. Flash42G

    Struggling to make the turns

    Interesting. I've been sim racing for a decade, but my career is in IT and I know a thing or two about system drivers and software associated with hardware peripherals. My experience with Logitech and Thrustmaster, and now Fanatec, on PC across multiple Windows versions, PS2/3/4, and multiple Xbox systems, does not match yours - I've never had a wheel/pedal system require recalibration after a power off/restart of the system. In the last 6 or 7 years, that means not Thrustmaster on Xbox One or One X, not Fanatec on Xbox One or One X, not Fanatec on Windows 10. With each of those combinations, I can power on the systems, fire up the racing games (including generations of Codemaster F1s), and the wheel and pedals work 100% correctly without having to do any calibration steps, implicit or explicit. My current system is Fanatec on Windows 10 and/or Xbox One X, and with both the calibration continues to be set correctly no matter how many times I power on or off the system.
  8. Additional note - I had the same issue with XBox One X, the dual clutch setup couldn't be used. I switched to Windows 10 on PC, and now have proper dual clutch setup (and rev and flag lights!). With the dual clutch setup, I can match the AI driver starts on 100% difficulty.
  9. Flash42G

    What does teammate's acclaim actually do?

    In the Corporate Drivers screen where you browse the list of drivers, you can toggle to show their driver perks - some of the drivers do have one or two level one perks at the start. The narrator or help seems to indicate that the AI drivers can spend their own money from their contract income to increase their perks - I haven't seen yet if those with perks just keep the same ones at the same level, or if they do change with time.
  10. Flash42G

    Whos fault is this at Spa ? ( discussion )

    Sorry, my fault - I froze the video to write down the names, and at 0:03 in (with one red light lit), the video has an AI behind the name. It must have just blipped out for a second.
  11. Flash42G

    Whos fault is this at Spa ? ( discussion )

    That trailing driver named TyOfHazard seems to be an AI car. Interesting that the AI is more aggressive this year and doesn't always yield when bullied 😉
  12. Flash42G

    Whos fault is this at Spa ? ( discussion )

    Agreed, andymc83 at fault - he deliberately squeezed the AI car into the wall, didn't leave a car's width of room. When Schumacher tried the same thing on Barrichello, he at least left a car's width plus a few inches - and Barrichello didn't back out either.
  13. Are you doing a formation lap? Check your tire temperatures at the start - In last year's F1 2019 game, your F2 car shows up on the grid with cold tires with terrible grip, and it seems the AI cars are simulated with a formation lap and warm tires? If YOU do a formation lap and warm up the tires, you'll have a lot better traction and get better starts.
  14. I've just finished the first My Team season, 22 races, 25% race length, and had no gearbox wear issues even with no upgrades. Win10 PC, started My Team save file on July 7. Common point, reading through here - most people don't mention what engine they are using when they are experiencing extreme gearbox wear - but for those who do mention it, it seems to be the Mercedes engine that has the extreme transmission wear. My team first season used the Honda engine, and again, no gearbox wear problems. Is it possible that this bug only affects cars with the Mercedes engine, and not the Renault/Honda/Ferrari powered cars? If you are experiencing extreme gearbox wear - What engine are you using??!!
  15. Flash42G

    how to get good start in f2 cars?

    Also look at your tire temperatures - the F2 cars start with cold tires, and if you don't do the warmup lap manually, you are on the grid with cold tires. If you do a manual warmup lap and get the tires warm, then you have much better traction on the race start.
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