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Monzie83

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Posts posted by Monzie83

  1. 8 hours ago, PJTierney said:

    How does it feel without the sponge? I've always left it in, along with 5x 85 dampers.

    Hey @PJTierney,

    I quite like it because it offers resistance through all of the pedal travel and eliminates that “step” of practically zero resistance the yellow foam brings.

    Overall it has helped me with trail braking as I subconsciously “know” to keep some pressure applied in the release phase - in my brain “resistance = brake engaged”.

    The issue I had with the yellow foam was I had to set deadzone so I could rest my foot on the brake, but at the level I set there was still some brake force being applied within the travel the yellow foam presents when pressed initially, and I found I was releasing the brake at the end of travel too quickly when trail braking because I felt no resistance. I could have set the deadzone higher to mitigate this, but then there would have been some initial travel that did nothing. Obviously I wanted to get all of the brake force I can in the early part of the braking phase, but couldn’t find that happy medium in the release phase. I mucked around with the linearity a bit but it didn’t solve the issue either. I hope that makes sense.

    I think it also helped me a lot with applying the brake at certain levels when needed, because I could feel the resistance that much earlier - with the “step” in there I was too inconsistent.

    I was using exactly the same config as you when I first got the pedals - try with 4x85 & 2x65, it feels about the same as 5x85 & yellow foam at the top end and through the middle of pedal travel, with a nice amount of initial resistance - give it a go, you might like it.

    • Like 1
  2. @jamesjuve86, I use 100% BF in the game and have BRF set to 50% on the wheel. I also set the brake dead-zone to 15, so I can rest my foot on the pedal without it registering an input.

    @Lakrits is right, having it at 100% gives you more control.

    You’ll also want to consider the black dampers you use on the brake pedal itself; you want to find the right combination of resistance and travel. I removed the yellow sponge and use 4x85, 2x65 dampers. I find the whole configuration removes the “step” in initial braking (which made it difficult to consistently brake at certain levels), it gives me a good amount of resistance (so I do have to exert a fair amount of pressure to hit 100% BF, but not too little that I always hit it - you might find as I did this happens on 40% BRF on the wheel, whereas 60% was too difficult to get 100% BF). This configuration also gives me enough travel so that I can “feel” my trail brake, 25% BF, 50% BF etc fairly consistently, all without tiring my leg out over a race.

    Initially on some tracks 100% BF was too much (as I can be a bit heavy with the brakes sometimes as was “over-braking”), and so I changed it to 95%, but over time in getting used to the LC, 100% is my go to setting.

    I hope the above is helpful!

  3. Hi all,

    Ive recently started playing multiplayer and have come across something which annoys me greatly; so I go into the unranked lobby and select a session, but if I want to exit (maybe because it’s already started and I can only spectate), it’ll only let me go back to the main menu and not the lobby screen. The extra “click and wait” is really annoying.

    Anyone else have this happen? I want to check it’s expected behaviour before creating a suggestion.

    Any help greatly appreciated - thank you,

    Monzie

  4. Hi there,

    A couple of suggestions regarding the Qualifying Practice Pace Program (QPP) that I think would be useful;

    1) Let us use the MAX fuel mix mode in the QPP - as it stands fuel mixes up to RICH is available, yet (as far as I can tell) the target times are based on using the MAX fuel mix. Often this means I will marginally miss out on the target time required in QPP, but make it comfortably in the actual qualy sessions. This means I have to be “faster” in QPP than in actual qualy (with all factors being the same - engine, setup, new tyres and racing line etc), which to me makes no sense.

    2) In the programme selection screen (I.e. before starting QPP as shown), display the estimated pole lap time and your target lap time (and associated qualy position).

    All the best,

    Monzie

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    • Agree 1
  5. Hi there,

    A small (and incredibly useful) suggestion is to send/ transmit the Personal Best Telemetry when in time trial mode.

    I recently downloaded a Telemetry App (SRT), and have been advised by them they cannot map/ display the PBT as it isn’t sent by the game in TT mode.

    Would be really useful for;

    - those who start using a telemetry app after having set a number of PB lap times on various circuits (probably most people).

    - those who are trying out various set up configurations/ racing lines to see where they are gaining/ losing time against their PB setup.

    I’m sure if the data was being sent Telemetry makers would make use of it.

    All the best,

    Monzie

     

  6. 4 hours ago, Nuvolarix said:

    Reading the official website I didn’t consider it before because is labeled “PS ready”. Can it be used with a “basic” base, V1 or V1.1 if I’m not wrong (and “normal” Elite Pedals) without the need for anything else?

    You’re welcome Nuv.

    So the wheel can be used with PS, you need to make sure it’s paired with a PS compatible base.

    From what I’ve been told by Fanatec, for PS compatibility, it’s the base that matters - you have to make sure the base is PS compatible (make sure it says “PS” instead of “PS Ready”), and then you can use any wheel that says “PS” or “PS Ready”. For Xbox use, you have to make sure the wheel is Xbox compatible (“Xbox”) and any base should then become compatible (that says “Xbox ready”). All equipment is PC compatible.

    Terribly confusing...

    This way, it’s possible to have a setup to use on all platforms like I have; Clubsport v2 wheel (Xbox compatible, PS Ready), CSL Elite + Wheelbase (PS Compatible, Xbox Ready). 

    The pedals will work on any platform, as long as it’s compatible, and for consoles must be plugged into the base and not the console itself. I have the CSL LC pedals.

    I doubt the above will change anytime soon, but it’s worth checking with their sales team before parting with your hard earned cash!

    • Thanks 1
  7. Hi Nuv,

    I have the Clubsport Formula v2 connected up to a PS4.

    I assume we’re talking about using the wheel on F1 2020, so the below is in relation to that.

    All the marked buttons in the picture attached correspond to the standard inputs on the PS4 as labelled in the picture, and all of these are mappable inputs on F1 2020 on PS4. In addition, the 2 thumbwheels, 2 rocker switches and 2 rotary switches also work as mappable inputs. The right joystick also works (as up/down/left/right, so the “d-pad” - I have it mapped that way). The left joystick does not work at all. I imagine it would be a similar thing on the PS4 CSL Elite F1 wheel.

    Having a look here, (https://fanatec.com/media/pdf/26/49/50/CSL-E-F1-SET-QG-EU-AU-EN_WebyG4TKn6Heu24O.pdf and here, https://fanatec.com/media/pdf/6c/c1/f6/CSL-E-F1-SET-Manual-US-EN_Web_06_MO.pdf), I think the “standard” PS4 buttons are the same for these two wheels, and it’ll be unlikely that the left joystick will work, but the one on the right should work as a d-pad so you can use it for the MFD.

    Can’t say for sure, as you never know unless you own it - hopefully someone who does will chime in, but hope this helps in the meantime.

    I assume you’re looking to buy the CSL Elite F1 set?

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    • Thanks 1
  8. Hi all,

    Am interested to hear how you approach the Race Strategy program (RSP), particularly with a view on if you use DRS and OT.

    I’ve recently completed a full season using TC assist and have decided restart a new career with all assists turned off, as well as bumping up the difficulty by 5 points (to 85) to a make it a bit more challenging, as I’ve improved as a driver marginally.

    In my previous career season, when running RSP I generally did not use DRS or OT if possible, as I wanted to operate the program to mirror a realistic “race scenario”, in that I might not have access to DRS depending on track position. I sometimes used OT if I found a target time to be particularly challenging, as I knew I had access to that in the race. In general I was just about on-pace overall without DRS and OT.

    Fast forward to today, and I’m really struggling to achieve the target times in the RSP with the new difficulty level and no TC, and so have to use both DRS and OT more regularly that I would like.

    What I’d like to know is, does using DRS and OT in RSP effect the resulting Race Strategy suggested in terms of fuel, pit stops windows etc? Surely by me “inflating” my times by using DRS/OT, it will effect the strategy suggested? Or am I thinking too deeply about this? 😂

    Will be keen to know your experiences and appreciate your thoughts.

  9. 2 hours ago, Lakrits said:

    It's not ment to be easy. If it's easy your difficulty level is to low. Since you're in the best car in the field the time you need to do seems reasonable.

     

    I guess my point was more around how the QPP wants me to do a (albeit) realistic Qualy time using a sub-standard fuel mix and was wondering if anyone else had this issue.

    If QPP is to be realistic it should let me use Max fuel mix and keep the realistic target time OR adjust the target time to be lower to compensate for only being able to use Rich fuel mix (as my time will definitely be slower on this)?

     

  10. Hi all, wondering if any of you have this issue.

    I play as Mercedes in my career mode, 85% difficulty, 50% races and with no assists.

    I struggle with the Qualy pace program (QPP) particularly with exceededing the target time. My setup is exactly the same and use brand new softs used for QPP and Qualy (Q).

    for example, Australia;

    In P3, QPP wants 1:22.5 to meet my target of 3rd.

    Q1 - Fastest AI sets a 1:22.9.

    Q2 - Fastest AI sets a 1:22.6.

    Q3 - Fastest AI sets a 1:22.2.

    So on the face of it the time required in QPP (1:22.5) is about right for 3rd. However, I really struggled to make this time in the QPP and only just did it.I think this is because I only have access to RICH fuel mix.

    In all actual Q sessions I easily made the 1:22.5 time, and then some (as I had access to MAX fuel mix).

    So shouldn’t the target QPP time be adjusted to be slower to compensate for the lack of access to the MAX fuel mix? Or let us have access to MAX fuel mix in QPP.

    Am I missing something? Grateful for any thoughts.

  11. @Rango, when you say MVH F1 wheel, do you mean the new quick release wheels they’re planning to announce soon, or do you mean their F1 rims/mods?

    In either case, it might be better to wait and see to what level the RS30 and new MVH wheels are supported in F1 - should be able to get confirmation from Codemasters fairly easily once they are released. If neither are supported (or supported at the minimum level - same as the G920), then getting an MVH rim might be the way to go.

    Would also add, it looks as though the RS30 has a standard button set. The only inputs that may not be supported are the RSB/LSB “clutch” paddles - so it could be a similar scenario to the G920.

    Btw, I had a MVH F1 rim (with the suede grips) for my G923 - it was well made and good value for money. I’d definitely recommend as it did improve the gaming experience.

    • Thanks 1
  12. On 3/6/2021 at 1:13 PM, Lisa2005 said:

    Hey!

    Recently I bought a steering wheel for my PS4. I noticed that this wheel has no touchpad. Without the touchpad I can’t change any car setups. Does someone know  how you change the touchpad button so I can change the setups. 

    Which wheel? If it is one that’s supported in the game, it would surely have a button mapped for this.

    Otherwise, as Exasperated has said you can use your controller alongside your wheel in the car setup areas. Having said that, I would recommend turning off the controller before you get on track - I’ve had the game switch to the controller on me in the middle of the session which has caused me issues with my inputs of my wheel.

  13. 19 hours ago, GoldenMoose430 said:

    However I did see a comment in here about using the fanatec universal hub as a set up point.

    That was probably me.

    When I owned the wheel, it was recognised in the game as Fanatec Universal Hub on first connection. Worked fine like that, although later I changed it to Logitech G920 (just in case it worked better). That also worked fine, and the same as the Fanatec Universal Hub (I couldn’t feel any difference between the two).

    Either make no difference when it comes to extra buttons/dial/rev light support.

    19 hours ago, GoldenMoose430 said:

    The lack of use for these extra buttons really sucks. I wanted to use that rotary dial for my fuel settings.   Had i known this was the situation with this wheel I might had waited and purchased another brand at a higher price point, simply for more functionality. 

    If you’re playing on Xbox, you should be aware that Logitech have created the software to support the wheel fully, Codemasters have not utilised this in the F1 2020 game. Likely you’ll have to wait for F1 2021 to have all the extra buttons etc working.

    Can’t speak for other wheel brands, but if you had bought a Fanatec setup (like I did) and you’re on Xbox, you’d be even more disappointed, because the additional buttons and rev lights do not work either. This however, is not down to Codemasters, but because Fanatec appear not to have created the software to enable the extra features on their wheel. Historically, they’ve said the issue lies with Microsoft, but we’ve found out otherwise (🤔).

    Long story short: On Xbox, you’re more likely to see your G923 fully supported sooner on the F1 titles than Fanatec wheel users are!

    Happy racing!

  14. 2 hours ago, Lakrits said:

    I just hope the rotaries will be more responsive. I've mapped mixture to one of them and if I want to go directly from high to lean I have to do it with a short pause between the steps on my current Thrustmaster F1 rim.

     

    I have the opposite problem with my Fanatec ClubSport v2 rotaries on PS4 - they are initially slow to respond, then suddenly too responsive. So I have mine mapped to Brake Balance - you have to turn it a a few times to “activate it”, then is super responsive so have to be very careful!

  15. 3 hours ago, cearp8858 said:

    teasers are pricing  is approx 350 euro plus tax/vat for the new thrustmaster rim, it also has clutch paddles and shows additional rotary dials too .

    if you wanted a fanatec with similar functionality i.e to include clutch on the rim  then your looking at 550 euro plus tax/vat so the new thrustmaster rim should pretty good value for money

    drawing below will be the rim minus the gold encoders

     

     

     

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    Good point, I forgot about needing to add the podium paddle module for clutch functionality on Fanatec. 

    I guess my thinking was it is more directly comparable (because of the amount of inputs/ build quality/ aesthetics etc) to Fanatec gear than the Logitech. So in the context of limited inputs on Fanatec gear, if this wheel is supported, it may push Fanatec into sorting the issue out.

  16. 23 hours ago, cearp8858 said:

    console functionality will depend on if the games implement the SDK for thrustmaster/fantec, the screen and led should work as long as the game outputs UDP telemetry, rumour is the screen is a 1 way data stream and is flashed with the layout  

     

    Thank you. The main thing I’d be interested in is all the extra buttons/ dials/ switches above that of a standard Xbox controller.

    I should have said - I’ve heard there is no Fanatec SDK to support additional features on their wheels, which is why the input limitations exist on their wheels on Xbox. So as an effected user, it will be interesting to see if this Thrustmaster one does have the additional features supported on Xbox (game depending of course).

    I know Logitech G923 has features such as additional buttons, a dial, and rev lights already working on certain Xbox games (because they have developed a SDK, which was then used by certain game devs), but since that wheel is not in the “same market place” as Fanatec gear, I dont think it’s not going to worry Fanatec too much, and pressure them into action. If this Thrustmaster wheel manages additional functionality (and with it being roughly similar price point and in the same market as the Fanatec stuff), then maybe Fanatec it will worry Fanatec enough to develop that SDK to enable the extra features on their wheels - one can only hope!

    Apologies to the OP for taking the discussion on a slight tangent!

    • Like 1
  17. It will be interesting to see to what level the functionality of this wheel is supported on consoles, as clearly there is a market for this type of thing on consoles (as fanatec proves).

    Other than that, at first glance it certainly looks like a good piece of kit. Unfortunately, I’ve recently bought Fanatec gear so will be on that for a while.

    I will watch that with keen interest as there are known issues with Fanatec gear being supported on Xbox - things like buttons/ dials/ switches and rev lights not being supported.

    • Agree 1
  18. 28 minutes ago, PJTierney said:

    @Monzie83 Something I noticed when using my Fanatec gear in DiRT Rally 2.0 across both Steam and Xbox is that on Steam I have access to more force-feedback options.

    When I ported my Xbox settings over I wondered why the wheel felt different, and turning Wheel Friction and Tyre Friction to zero gave me an identical feeling to my Xbox settings.

    I guess this is another side-effect of the wheel not having native support on Xbox.

    Thanks for the input @PJTierney, the more examples of this type of thing we can gather, the better 👍🏽

  19. @XrodneyX I see you’re on Thrustmaster gear. I’ve heard some of their wheels support additional buttons (over a standard Xbox controller) - is this true? For example, I’ve heard on the Ferrari rim, all the buttons, dials etc are supported on Xbox.

    On 5/3/2020 at 8:04 AM, XrodneyX said:

    ultimately would like to know what it’s like and how much more of a difference to drive with is the dd1 from the current thrustmaster/Logitech options on the Xbox.

    Can only speak for the CSL Elite + wheelbase, and Clubsport Formula v2 wheel. I had a Logitech G920/G923. Using all these on Xbox. The immersion of the Fanatec is worlds apart. The “drive” I found is much more smooth, realistic and responsive, not to mention stronger and more detailed FFB. CSL LC pedals also much much better than the Logitech. I have not owned a DD so cannot say. 

    Apologies - I should have answered this in my Jan 13 post (at that time was hell bent on getting the message out about G923 working on Xbox 🤦🏽‍♂️) and you probably have your answer already. Thought I’d post in any case.

  20. 19 hours ago, MauriceMiller said:

    I've had mine since Nov.  ACC always had button/light support and their update not long later added trueforce.  DR2.0 worked as a basic FF wheel but LSB/RSB, the dial, enter, +&- and rev lights didn't work.  Apparently the recent patch has messed even that up.  PC2 thought it was a basic/old thrustmaster.
     

     

    Super - thank you for confirming that it does work on ACC for Xbox and for the video also!

    It all worked when I had the wheel (from release) but didn’t realise how much of an issue this was until I switched to Fanatec gear and sold my G923 wheel in December. Would have made a video of it all working if I knew what I do now then. I searched far and wide for video evidence and in the end got in touch with the buyer to make one!

    • Agree 1
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