SixtoRodriguez

Does anyone use it? Just bought the T300 a couple of months ago, but I'm thinking about buying it. Looks pretty damn good.

Have you tried both? What I don't like about the Ferrari wheel are the fake four dials in the middle. It looks a bit cheap to be honest.

Thanks. Sorry, I didn't mean the setting for the wheel. I was talking about the setup for the car. But thanks for the video.

@PJTierney I've a question regarding your setups: First of all, thanks for the great content on YT! I'm a subscriber and your setups have been a great help. I prefer an understeering car and I think this is why I like your setups. They are very drivable for me and the tyre wear is fantastic. However, I guess they are a bit on the safe side if you know what I mean. I'm ready to give up a bit of stability to go faster. Is there any trick? Any parameters I can adjust?

We faced a technical issue with our online league. It was not possible to proceed from training to qualifiying in the China GP. The results were not transfered correctly. (I think it's a well-known problem.) Therefore, we decided to continue the season with unranked races. We finished the China GP and had another try to proceed in the league after a couple of days and it suddenly worked. So we just ended the session in the first lap of the race with the intention to change the result manually. Now it is actually possible to change the result BUT you still get no points for a top 10 position! I assume it has something to do with DNF. Any idea how to solve this?

I was searching this forum for a related topic but couldn't find it, so I decided to start a new one. Of course, the difference in car performance is somehow visible by comparing the AI lap times in qualifying or race in the grand prix mode. However, I assume there's a difference if the car is maneuvered by the AI or by yourself?! For exampe: The pink Mercedes is a bit behind RB in the performance chart, but the engine is stronger. So if you twist the setup a bit, I wonder if you're able to go faster than a RB?! For example: I'm participating in an online league and I'm playing MyTeam. The difficulty is the same. In the online league, I'm having great fights with my teammate (Hamilton), while I'm about 1.5 sec faster / lap in MyTeam compared to my teammate (a roided up Gasly). Any comment?

AI 90? Damn, I thought you're struggling mate, but actually you're killing it. I just increased the AI to 70 and found it pretty challenging. 😅

I bought the T300 this summer and finally made the switch from pad to wheel. I wasn't using any assits on the pad except automatic shifting. So manual shifting was something that I had to get used to, however, it only took me a couple of hours. Personally, I find that using the pedals is more difficult. I just couldn't find my rhythm in the beginning and it definitly took me more than 10-15h to get used to it. I'd say it took me a full season (race length: 50%) to really get used to the wheel and become fast. Setting the linearity for acceleration and breaking to 50% helped me a lot - especially with the breaking. After 2 full seasons, I'm about 2 sec faster per lap than on the pad. The difference in accuracy, handling in general and being able to put in constant lap times is huge - in particular on tracks like Silverstone or Suzuka.

I don't think you get a "massive" tyre wear using 50% diff. I always use between 50-65% and I'm still able to run a 1 stop strategy (soft & medium) on most tracks. I also don't know anybody using 100% diff (or even close). I can't think of any advantage using it. Edit: I do 50% race length all assists off.

I struggled a lot with race starts as well until I found it is related to the medium tyres. I now always use soft tyres in Q2 and it's OK since then. My starts are not perfect, but I now manage to keep my position at least. That extra level of grip can make a big difference.

Hi, I'm still struggling with manual race starts. I'm playing on a T300 wheel with two pedals. This means I have no clutch pedal. I need to press and hold the switch (= shift up) and release it when the lights turn red. I have problems to into that perfect range with the tachometer. Is there any way to ease things up? (Yes, I like to keep manual race starts.)

Thanks for getting back at me, mate. I understand I get no points for the DNFs, but if I change the results, I should get some points, no? For example: If the network connection is lost just 3 rounds before finishing the race, I prefer to just enter the results manually than start the race all over again. However, that's not possible, because if I end the session, I'll get a DNF and therefore no points.

Nobody? Nothing?

Thanks. I will try to do it next time. I was also thinking about starting with the low fuel mix to avoid wheel and ultimately crashing the car on the grid wall.

Happened to me as well. Seems like there's no way to fix it. So I've basically invested 30h of my life for... nothing. Fantastic.

Same problem here. Right in the middle of a season. Any suggestions?

So we finished about 50% of our league season and now the game got stuck in the training of the China GP. We can't continue with qualifying. Great. Now we have to somehow finish the season manualy by using excel. Maybe that's the better option anyway because rain in every second race sucks anyway.

Yes, trail braking is the key to become faster. If you're not used to it, it's very difficult to change your driving style.

If there's no safety car in your game, you should change the setting to "safety car: on". The safety car comes out in every third race or so.

The Hulkster 91 exp 90 racecraft 87 awareness 84 pace Alonso 99 exp 97 racecraft 99 awareness 90 pace Schumacher 99 exp 94 racecraft 90 awareness 96 pace Senna 99 exp 99 racecraft 88 awareness 99 pace

I'm just going to use this thread instead starting a new one. I'm about to finish my first MyTeam season (10 races/season, AI 60, all assists off) and have some random questions: In 7 of 10 races I had power issues. Got my first grid penalty in race 7, another one in 8, 9 and probably also will get one in the last race. I'm running the HONDA engine so I assume it's just pretty realistic?! Do you made a similar experience? Second question: Do I have to save money at the end of the season to be able to sign a better driver and get a new engine supplier on board? I mean will there be any bonus at the end of the season based on my ranking in the constructor's championship? I have 7 millions sitting in my bank account and there's one race to go.

I'm playing F1 2020 with my cousin online and it's always a bit difficult to find a free time spot during the week. I'm not the fastest guy on planet earth, but I simply love this game and the drama that comes with it. However, I don't like to spend a lot of time on the setups. (It's not that I don't enjoy it, but it's just super time consuming...) So my question is: Is there any basic setup you guys can recommend? Like what are the key factors for a successful race performance. Thanks in advance.

Will the updated car performance also apply to on going leagues or will it remain the same as it is until the season is finished?

I have a simple question: Now since CM confirmed the performance of Ferrari, Alfa, Haas and Racing Point will be adjusted, does this also apply for on-going leagues? How was this handled in the past?

I just wanted to start a new subject about "dirty air" but found this old thread so I'm using this one. How big does dirty air affect your pace? I still suck at manual starts and generally lose 3-5 positions. Then, I feel it's way harder to nail fast laps in the pulk than in the front or in training even though the cars in front of you are 2-3 sec away.