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Exasperated

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Exasperated last won the day on February 14

Exasperated had the most liked content!

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Gaming Setup

  • Platforms
    Playstation 4
  • Peripherals
    Steering Wheel
  • Steering Wheel
    T300

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  1. Exasperated

    From Pad to Wheel with No Assists - Gradual or All out?

    In a wet race a good set up makes the car drive almost like it does in the dry albeit much slower because of the extra drag caused , it is absolutely essential if you want half a chance of racing properly in the wet and for that matter in the dry although you can get away with basic set up more easily in the dry. Enjoy Turning off the racing line will be the best thing you do , you can see on the track where the cars go by looking at the track surface and you can see where they start braking because the track is darker in colour where the tyres have scrubbed off rubber under braking. Use the markers at the side of the track 100 in the dry, 150 in the wet and see your braking zone from a distance by looking to the black square marker high up at the side of the track near the corner.
  2. Exasperated

    Thrustmaster t150 pedals

    Yes true what you say , I'm just trying to save him money now so that he can spend all the money on some much better stuff when he upgrades and side step the in between stuff , but its his call of course , not mine
  3. Exasperated

    Thrustmaster t150 pedals

    Too keep thing in perspective you have a T150 wheel the force feedback is ok but its very weak on a lot of games and the wheel itself feels horrible to touch even with gloves on because it is cheap and plasticky , so why worry about spending money on pedals when you already have some that work if you have a spring for the throttle pedal , you know what to do about that because I explained it , If you don't want to do that which is your cheapest option , I am trying to save you money here, then If you have an EBay account and a PayPal account then that is usually the best place to go to buy what you are after. I would buy a set of T300RS pedals if you can get them cheap as then when you want to sell your T150 it will be easier to sell because it will have a set of working pedals, If you buy T3PA pedals that will normally sell for more than a set of T300RS pedals then will you want to give them away with the T150 wheel . Weigh up what is important to you, Personally i'd just make a spring up to make the pedals you have work to save money and carry on using those until you decide to either stop gaming or get more serious, then if you want to get more serious then get some proper stuff like Fanatic sell if that what you feel you want/ need and skip out all the in between compromise things like the T3PA which are pedals that is for sure but in the never ending argument of which pedals will give you the best lap times , laughable because when you see pictures of some of the set ups people have with their expensive load cell brakes pedal sets pushed up against a wall under a desk and sat on a carpet not bolted down it makes you wonder if they have a clue what their doing. The argument about what you should do and have is endless because talking nonsense is what human beings are very good at. Personally I think that it is absolutely essential that you have a proper sim rig frame that the pedals are bolted on to for rigidity or it's pointless having them in the first place; the list goes on , my friend says that it is essential to shave off 2 tenths blah blah , you probably get my drift I've been doing this for decades but I don't race online because its not my bag , I'm not a badge of honour type but I have a proper rig and I happily use just a Thrust master T300 wheel base and a set of T300RS pedals when I am playing in F1 games (with a half of a rubber ball fixed to the base behind the brake pedal to limit its movement , which you could do to your T150 pedal set and is the same idea as smalls048 mentions about the T3PA) or I use a set of T3PA PRO pedals (I got them cheap) if I want a clutch in Project Cars2 or a rally number because in truth games running on consoles just aren't good enough to warrant having anything much better in my opinion. Any way in conclusion you should buy a set of Heusinkveld pedals and a Leo Bodnar Direct drive wheelbase with 400 NM of Force at the wheel it absolutely essential especially for use with top titles like 'table top GP racers ' A set of T3PA's it is then. Enjoy your racing my friend. Remember its the in game settings that make the pedals work as they are working while driving in the game , if you have bad settings while using a Set of pedals worth £700 its not the pedals that are bad
  4. Exasperated

    Thrustmaster t150 pedals

    A huge step up , the only thing that is a huge step up about those pedals is the thickness of the base, but everyone is entitled to their opinions. I have all three of those pedal sets , a T150 and a T300 wheelbase. Enjoy your racing. Regar The setup of the pedals in calibration and the FFB settings are the thing that make the difference between whether or not a user thinks that they are any good or not , If I use one lot of settings in a driving game that are bad settings that make driving the car difficult then some one testing them would say they were **** pedals , if I change the settings for them into good settings that make the car very controllable then the tester will say they are great pedals all controllers can be made to work much better if they are tuned in settings . On default settings in the majority of driving games for PS4 my Wheel and pedal sets are useless and you can barely keep a car on a track or road , it feels like you are driving a hovercraft but after hours of experimenting to get the settings right they work excellently and the car brakes and accelerates perfectly with no assists on , the actual pedals themselves are about 20% of the job even if you have Fanatic pedal sets with full metal construction and brass bushings etc its not just plug and play , I have a set of Fanatic pedals and they don't work any better than my T300RS pedals in game even though they are made of better materials and are a more complex design.
  5. Exasperated

    F1 2020 online rammers

    When Vettel is coming through ; he's coming through. Ask Webber and Leclerc.
  6. Exasperated

    From Pad to Wheel with No Assists - Gradual or All out?

    Sounds like its all coming together well , but I think you need to up your difficulty, I just went to Austria tonight on AI 110 ultimate no assists cockpit view with halo strut and came 10th in a racing point from 12th on the grid with a best lap time of 108.88 ;1st and 2 put in best laps of around 104.8 so your best lap of 105 when you just started with no assists is pretty good going i'd say , time to move up. Have a blast ,keep up the good work. When the track is wet and the forecast is an all wet race your car setup needs masses of downforce and mechanical grip by using soft springs and ARB's and very low tyre pressures , lean fuel settings at the start and in the corners if its not causing your power unit problems and max toe settings can be of use as well as having a more locked diff both on and off throttle but not too much off throttle as it will have a tendency to push you off line while in a corner , if you make these setups then racing in the wet can actually be to your advantage if you use good balanced throttle control in the corners as little use of the brakes as you can get away with and coast while changing down the box on corner entry ( slower than in the dry or its like briefly putting a hand brake on in the wet each time you drop down a gear which unsettles the car) and make the most of the straights by using a rich fuel mix and thrashing it as much as you can get away with ,but leave plenty of slowing down distance before the corner keeping the car under control at the corner and being slower there will save more time than squirming around fighting the the back or front of the car because you are trying to go too fast there, slow down to go faster. If the race is wet ,dry ,wet , dry etc then run a balanced set up on wings and suspension or you will pay heavily if you end up on dry tyres with a high downforce set up if there is a long period on those tyres.
  7. Exasperated

    Thrustmaster t150 pedals

    Don't be fooled by marketing stuff with pedals, people talk a bout T3PA pedals (you're just getting another pedal for the clutch ) as if they are a huge improvement over the T150 or T300 pedal sets when the way they are made makes them virtually identical in performance as a pivoting lever that has a geared quadrant attached to it that turns a potentiometer via a set of straight cut gears. The readings that the pedals gives the game are the same there is no performance to be gained here because you do not get any flex in the pedals that is enough to affect performance, Yes the T3PA are built to be more durable but it has to be paid for with a higher price and if you are not a bashing stamping lunatic then you don't need that extra durability. . All that is needed is that the pedal levers move smoothly with no judder , the only thing that is wrong with the T150 throttle pedals is the specification of the type of metal and/or the heat treatment of it that the throttle spring is made of which means that it is too brittle or has some kind of weakness in the structure that leads to it breaking after some amount of use , The T300Rs throttle pedal spring does not have this problem although it is the same type of spring in the way it is wound as is the T3PA spring set that also does not have a problem with springs breaking , but unless you desperately need a clutch then you are not getting a much better set of pedals as the pedal lever arms on all of those models of pedal are all made of plastic , If you want rigidity (which you don't need on a potentiometer signalled pedal as it measures braking input through linear movement to the pedal via the potentiometer not by pressure applied to the pedal ) then you need the T3PA PRO pedals that have the lever arms made of metal. Much more money and you still have a throttle that works with a potentiometer and has the same type of spring to make it work performance gain so small in real terms as to be not worth the extra money . In peoples heads ; because they paid more money and the box it comes in looks nice they get the psychological boost effect of thinking its much better , but that's all part of selling things to people. , If you have a load cell on your pedal set then you are talking about a totally different thing and that is when you want the superior quality of materials used as you are putting pressure force on the pedal set base and so it makes a difference but only where a load cell is used .
  8. Exasperated

    Cannot go into pit lane.

    Never mind that , lets concentrate on the race , keep focus ................. Where are you, are you pitting or what; we've ben waiting here for ten minutes, Hello ......Hello!
  9. Exasperated

    Midnight Express

    Just did a Google on your wheel base and with it having approx. 1.6 times more torque from the motor to the wheel its no surprise that the high on track ffb value was abit too much action but you could get an idea of what I am receiving by scaling it back to bring it in line with that 1.6X figure , lets see how you find the car set up values , it works very well with my wheel and all the setup values that I run on my wheel obviously . Unless you use all the settings that I run including calibration values etc then you will get a different result than I am feeling , I was running it last night in a Renault in a 25% no assists , no TCS at Monaco and it drives mint for me with total control front and rear as long as you don't get carried away on the throttle on corner exit of course . Have a good race.
  10. Exasperated

    F1 2010 - massive steering problem

    Try your wheel at 900 degrees rotation and see if that does anything to help.
  11. Exasperated

    F1 2010 - massive steering problem

    You probably had a patch update that changed it and stopped it working. If you have the game as the original version saved from initial download you could wipe the game from your drive then re install the original version and then try to fight off any updates, I'm on a Console and the update installed itself by stealth even though I had defeated its attempts on about 10 different occasions , resistance for me proved to be futile.
  12. Exasperated

    Driver Career - Williams - A Few Questions/Issues

    Try driving in cockpit view maybe that stops the tutorials , there are only five of us on the planet doing that , the developers probably thought ; well if they managed to work out where a driver sits to drive a car then he probably doesn't need any help driving it , like I said I don't get any , in fact even with 'Everything' on Jeff barely speaks to me during a race , sometimes I think its not working properly so we definitely are getting a different experience with the same game and its going to be down to the settings that you have it on compared to mine.
  13. Exasperated

    Midnight Express

    It would be interesting to find out how it plays out on that wheelbase, on my T300 it gives a good sensation of grip and weight (for the game that is) , but it feels abit numb , but it at least makes it feel like you are driving on a surface and not gliding over a baking tray greased with butter, they need to insert the FFB from 2017 into the game to gets Some feeling into it , its good on F2 cars which only took a fraction of the time experimenting with the levels with that car to find something reasonable , but its still not quite as detailed as it could be in comparison to a other consolegame that manages to provide huge amounts of effects and control over it. Its not especially for full traction control , its for good grip really , even with Full TC on with this setting I can lose the rear end out of a corner if I just floor it. but lets see how it reacts on your set up .l hope it gives you a good drive and max Funn
  14. Exasperated

    F1 2010 - massive steering problem

    Your wheel wasn't around when that game came out and so that may be the reason why it doesn't work , if you want to drive that game you need the wheel that it was made to work with as shown in the manual that comes with the PS3 or Xbox 360 , those being the Logitech DF pro and the MS wireless wheel for 360 , I have both versions of the game and both wheels and they work fine , the best wheel effects are on the Logitech wheel and the best graphics are on the Xbox 360 which is a shame but there you go. In conclusion you need a Logitech DF pro for best results. The results are better on 2010 than my T300 on 2020 which is a bit strange but such is life.
  15. Exasperated

    Commentators

    You can only skip it not turn it off unfortunately for those that would like to. Considering how much I consider myself lucky that some one bothered to put this much effort into making the game what it is so that I can enjoy it , my comments are not even near the top never mind over the top. The biggest mistake that is made in all games is the lack of an On/Off menu for everything in the game to keep all the differing types of player happy , this would mean extra work and would have to be past on in a higher retail price to the customer and obviously they have to keep the price down so that the kids don't flip a fuse and stop buying it I'm glad you are loving the game, enjoy your racing . Regards.
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