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YesItsReallyMe

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    Playstation 4
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    Steering Wheel

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  1. YesItsReallyMe

    T300 FFB is broken since patch 1.06 ps4 uk [SG]

    Afternoon @Hoo sorry this has taken a couple of days to get back to you. But me and my friend tested this offline first then online over 2 days! short answer to the question of resetting camera settings back to default. - It cures the problem of weak/Suppressed FFB online!! I am astounded!! It doesnt matter how you have the ffb setup strength wise it works whatever you use as long as you use the default camera settings! my custom camera settings for the t cam i was using are as follows.... Fov- 0.15. Offset horizontal 0.40. Offset vertical 0.50. Angle 0.05. Everything else default. These settings will make the FFB go weak/Suppressed online. There is a difference in FFB between using my custom settings and then changing back to default. The FFB changes with changing camera settings. If you change the angle setting on mine to 0.00 that changes it again, quite drastically. Then if you add another custom camera setting say for the cockpit it makes the FFB act a little strange until you just use 1 custom camera setting. anyway back to the test. I booted up the ps4, wheel calibrated and i left it on the default 4 flashes and loaded the game. Went into TT using Mercedes at Austria using the default/balanced setup, just to get a feel for how it was. after 5 laps i backed out to main menu and then i duplicated my FFB settings, enabled it and then went back to Austria TT just to try it. To my surprise the FFB felt a little better just for duplicating my FFB setup. I didnt delete my old one i just left it there and enabled the new one. Backed out again to the main menu and left the FFB alone this time and changed the camera settings back to default for all of them. Went back to TT in Austria and wow, what a difference. FFB was more positive, i could get on the gas a lot quicker and brakes felt better. I beat my TT lap time. I then tried my custom setup and the FFB felt the same! I tried a few tracks using default setup then my custom one, everything was working fine. I got my friend to follow the steps i had taken and the FFB was working correct for him too. We then went online. I had one report code throughout the offline test and 1 online race, it stayed the same racing and in menus. MDGP-AVMS-ABDJ-HBEG. Unranked lobby, official cars, equal performance. 5 lappers. I used the mercedes to start with we went to Austria. Default setup first, that felt fine, in fact in felt like the silverstone test i did for you a few weeks back, you could feel tyres turning on, it felt fantastic! for both of us. We then tried custom setup at Austria that behaved the same it felt amazing!! We carried on last night just doing 5 lappers online, Germany, Bahrain, Australia, Spa. First using default setups, then using our own. The FFB was great and working how you should expect. We tried using different cars aswell for testing sake, they all worked correctly. So my conclusion for this is that resetting your camera settings to default more or less gets rid of the weak ffb online. I cannot believe the difference. 1 problem i did have along the way. I went into FFB menu and deleted my old FFB setting, the one i had duplicated from. Went into TT to test it and the FFB felt a little off so I had to make my old FFB setup and leave it. It seems for me it feels better using a duplicated FFB rather than deleting one. But after reading what @Hygradeb says above, i presume he means his FFB profiles hes deleting. His feels better if he deletes everything and makes his FFB setup fresh. I may try that myself and see if that is the same for me rather than duplicating. Using default camera settings has cured the problem for me and my friend. Ill be using it from now on, the only reason i changed them is i couldnt get along with default camera when game first came out so i put my custom camera settings on which i was using on the last game F1 2018, they worked okay on there and they worked okay on F1 2019 when it first came out. Im reverting back to using default camera settings now.
  2. YesItsReallyMe

    T300 FFB is broken since patch 1.06 ps4 uk [SG]

    @Hoo Thanks for your reply. I will try what you suggest above and report back. I might not get chance till tomorrow to try it but I will for sure. But I can confirm changing camera settings for me drastically changes the FFB forces. Each notch feels very very different and if you have 2 separate camera settings say for tbar and cockpit that makes the FFB feel different aswell to just running one custom camera setting. I will note down what I have set and give you this info aswell. Thanks
  3. YesItsReallyMe

    T300 FFB is broken since patch 1.06 ps4 uk [SG]

    Hello @Hoo. I'm slightly deflated to read this. The thing is we don't have to follow any steps for the suppressed FFB to be suppressed online it just happens. it's how the multiplayer player part loads in or something triggers it to happen. My friend has just upgraded to a t300 this past week and he's is getting exactly the same as everyone in here. I've had a mixed bag in last 2 league races I've done using that method I posted last week. Canada a full wet race was fine after I did my method until I made a pitstop. After pitting the FFB disappeared, it was like I had a set of inters fitted or a set of worn wets. Before my stop I'd battled upto 2nd after stop I lost 2 places and 16secs of time to leaders in 14laps and finished 4th. I couldn't keep up and car was all over the road. Can we come at it a different way? Not sure if it's linked but thought it was worth mentioning. Changing camera settings, should changing these to what you want have big impacts on how the FFB is related back to the wheel? It does for me. Even moving 1 slider 1 notch up or down makes FFB feel very different. I have a custom camera setting. I set my cockpit camera how I like it and then there's t bar for testing this. I have 2 custom camera positions it effects the FFB for each seperate camera setting. If you delete one it makes the one you use go back to how FFB feels before you started adding another custom camera. Like makes a conflict if you have 2 custom camera settings saved. Are you able to share what camera and wheel settings you are testing this on so we can try what you are running our end and see if it makes a difference? I'm happy to give you mine for you to try your end aswell. Seriously starting to pull my hair out with this one now. It's really putting me off playing the game online. Made a mistake last week also. Went on GT sport for a couple of hours before F1 game. When I loaded F1 game in I thought my wheel had broken the difference in FFB between the games was that bad. On F1 it was like using a bungy cord wheel. Is there anything else you can suggest for testing I'm not giving up yet but I'm getting close.
  4. YesItsReallyMe

    T300 FFB is broken since patch 1.06 ps4 uk [SG]

    @Hoo this is welcome news. Thanks for getting back to us, feel positive now that the issue can be traced. Ive done some further digging myself over the weekend and I think I may of found something. I tried every combination possible for this and this is what I found. I had a league race on Monday at Singapore so all this testing was done at that track, sorry about that Turned on the ps4 and the wheel calibrated fine as usual. I left the wheel base on the default 4 flashes and loaded the game. Went straight to GP mode - Mercedes - Singapore - Default setup the one inbetween full downforce and default balanced one (2nd setup from the left) - 5 laps. FFB felt okay. Online unranked practice - Official cars - Equal Performance- Mercedes - 45 mins session - one shot qually - 5 lap race - same default setup as above - FFB was giving the weak/supressed feeling again. Really chalk and cheese feeling between GP mode and online. Worked on a setup in TT and GP mode then saved it. I went back into a unranked lobby same lobby settings as before. This time i used the Ferrari as its my league car. I tried the default setup again first, it felt the same as the mercedes. I then went into the pits and changed the default setup to the setup i had worked on by changing the values of the default setup and NOT loading it in. The FFB felt a bit better. I then came into the pits, and loaded in the custom setup I had made - FFB felt a bit more better. Making changes out on track from the MFD was making the FFB respond. The 2 settings you can change from the MFD - Front brake Bias & Diff were making the FFB go strong and weak. I can understand the diff making that happen but why the brake bias? Returned to pit - loaded in my custom setup again. But I changed the 2 settings Front brake bias & Diff back to what the default setting was in the setup screen in the pits. so in my case the default front brake bias was 59 and the diff 75 in the setup screen in the pits. Left the pits and didnt touch anything till i got out on track at turn 3. This is where it gets intresting..... I altered the diff from the MFD to my custom setup value of 65. The FFB switched on. I then changed the brake bias from the MFD to my custom setup value of 54, the FFB switched on even more!!! It felt more like offline, slightly weaker but not much but definitely better than the FFB issue we've been getting online. I tried all compounds of tyres and the FFB was amazing. Using this setup offline in GP mode seems to run better if you make the setup fresh everytime and not loaded in. Online it runs better loading in your custom setup but change the 2 MFD settings back to the default setup values and the change them back to your custom setup values from the MFD once out on track. DO this everytime during qually and the FFB will respond. So... I put this workaround to the test during my league race last night. loaded in my custom setup - changed the 2 settings back to default value brake bias and the top diff in the setup screen in the pits. Drove out of the pits again and didnt touch anything till i joined the track at Turn 3. I then changed the brake bias and diff setting from the MFD to my custom setup values and the FFB was there! Everytime in qually before going out i changed the brake bias & top diff back to default values then changed them to custom setup values from MFD once on track. My pace was back and the FFB was there. Finished qually, then the game takes you to the race start. i went back into the setup and changed the brake bias and diff again back to default setup values. we started the formation lap, i then used the MFD to change them 2 settings back to my custom setup values during the formation lap and it made the FFB switch on again. I had made a hash of qually, i was purple in both sectors till i binned it then it started raining. Started 12th and ended up finishing 3rd. I had pace i was overtaking cars, the FFB was responding, fuel was lasting a lot longer along with ERS. Ive been struggling to finish in the top 1o in my league before using this workaround and last night just felt like a different game, I was actually going forward during the race and not backwards like my other races. Im going to use this method from now on as it seems to be an temporary fix to the problems weve been getting, or it is for me anyway. Does this point to an issue with official cars in unranked lobbies, custom setups or a problem with the MFD? or a bit of all 3? After my league race had finished and id crossed the line I pressed options and there was a report code in there XAKB-MVCR-CTAJ-HBEG if its any help to you. The above method also works if you set the wheel base to 2 flashes before loading the game, but the FFB feels a lot weaker so im leaving it on the default 4 from now on too. I hope this can help you further, a lot of hours went into this over weekend and a lot of laps.
  5. YesItsReallyMe

    T300 FFB is broken since patch 1.06 ps4 uk [SG]

    @senna94f1 I'm sorry to have "hijacked your post" I've posted more than once in here with info for the issue we all seem to be having to help get this sorted for us all. I even tagged you the other day to make sure you got the info on the test he was wanting doing. Any further issues I'll message hoo direct instead of posting in here and seemingly causing an issue. First time I've tried the new patch this evening. 1.12. went to Bahrain 5 laps in gp mode Mercedes. FFB felt off. Went into settings from the main menu to the controller and FFB settings and duplicated my FFB setup, enabled it, then deleted my old one. Quit the game then rebooted, FFB was back to being how it was on patch 1.10. Just incase it HELPS anyone...
  6. YesItsReallyMe

    T300 FFB is broken since patch 1.06 ps4 uk [SG]

    @Hoo I've tried this, here is my findings. I'll try to be brief as I can but I ended up writing a load of notes down. Turned on Ps4 and wheel calibrated okay. I set the t300 base to 2 flashes on DOR. Loaded the game. Went straight into Silverstone GP mode. I did 30 mins practice and ran on every set of tyres 3 laps each. Used the same setup throughout this test. The balanced default one and only change brake bias to 54 and diff to 65 on track from MFD not in the pits. First lap on Hards in practice felt like track was green and not rubbered in as in real life but halfway round the lap the FFB gave the impression that the tyres had switched on. FFB felt good. First lap with mediums FFB was good a little stronger and same with soft, a little stronger than mediums. I put this down to FFB giving impression of difference between compounds. Did one shot qually on softs. FFB was strong, stronger than practice. Started a 5 lap race, FFB wasn't as strong as qually but halfway round the first lap it gave impression of tyres switching on again and then stabilised. During this I had a report code. I had to pause to take a phone call report code was shown VBXT-EKVX-PRAJ-HBEG. Set up unranked with multiplayer car and 5 laps. The FFB in this mode felt the same as offline I'd just done but was getting more detail of bumps and tracks effects, oh how I wish all online FFB felt like this. It felt really nice. Back to menu after 5 laps in ranked. Game options, settings, another report code there XHME-PBKX-KRAJ-HBEG. I always seem to have a report code in this screen no matter if I've races or going in straight from booking up. Left it a couple of hours and tried again. Booted up exactly same as I did on first go but this time I checked my FFB settings from the game options first. Another code TSAK-BBBV-BEBJ-HBEG. I carried on the test. Exactly same setup, one shot qually and 5 laps in gp mode. the FFB was mushy it was like it was being suppressed and felt like the issue were gettin online. Car was all over road. I paused the game and used a flashback, after the flashback the FFB kicked in but didn't feel as strong as test 1 earlier in day. Tried this in unranked with multiplayer car and the FFB felt the same mushy and not a lot of strength. Quit the game and rebooted, went straight in gp mode again and the FFB was back to being how it should and the same for unranked with multiplayer car. Out of curiousity I tried same test at Bahrain. The FFB felt better than my league race on Monday night there but not as strong as Silverstone. As the guys above have said Silverstone is a strong FFB track anyway but Bahrain was about 3 quarters compared to what silverstone is. Used exact same setup as Silverstone. Conclusions.... The FFB feels better for me using multiplayer car in unranked. But there is difference in strength between tracks. But better than the weak effect I've been getting using official 2019 cars. The car handles a lot better, turns better etc and my laps times are quicker using MP car on default setup rather than official cars and a custom setup. The custom setups feel fine offline and in TT. Feel awful for my league races. FFB wise. If anymore info you need or you need me to test anything else I'll be happy to. Really want to get to bottom of this as it's affecting my league racing. It's good to see a fix for the system menu issue. But I don't have to be in a race for that to happen. It happens for me in main menu aswell as racing. I have to accept a invite by going to system menu with pressing ps button and it makes the DOR change. I have to manually recalibrate wheel again to 2 flashes before heading out onto track once the lobby is running in qually. Will the fix cover that aswell as a general system menu glitch. Sorry it's a long post. Just wanted to pass over as much info as possible. Try Silverstone again then try Bahrain. I never use understeer on setting. It's always turned off. After doing this test the weak/suppressed FFB feels like you driving on track with it green not rubbered in on hardest set of tyres that never switch on. It's best way I can describe it.
  7. YesItsReallyMe

    T300 FFB is broken since patch 1.06 ps4 uk [SG]

    Thanks @Hoo will try this an report back. On a side note I did a league race at China last week FFB felt good for online. Then this week we did Bahrain and the FFB was mushy again you could feel it kicking in and dropping off at various parts of the track. It's like the FFB is getting wonky input signals. This was in unranked lobby and using official 2019 cars. My wheel online doesn't get as warm as offline I run the fan in always on mode too. @senna94f1 they have asked for a further test on the FFB.
  8. YesItsReallyMe

    T300 FFB is broken since patch 1.06 ps4 uk [SG]

    @Hoo @RedDevilKT is there any updates you can give us on this/these issue please. It's been a while since we were told it was being looked at after asking us to post further information on the matter. Offline and online just feel like 2 different games. Online is not a pleasant experience especially in unranked lobbies on a T300 wheel.
  9. YesItsReallyMe

    T300 FFB is broken since patch 1.06 ps4 uk [SG]

    @Hoo have you guys managed to find anything with these issues? Still got weak FFB online and the DOR changing itself issue. Thanks
  10. YesItsReallyMe

    T300 FFB is broken since patch 1.06 ps4 uk [SG]

    @Hoo What platform you are on: Base Ps4. What make and model of wheel you are using, plus any pedals and other controllers you might have connected: Thrustmaster T300rs with GTE Rim, T3PA pedals. What firmware your wheel is on: latest V29 What control scheme you are using: Custom. What advanced steering wheel settings you are using: Default, everything set to 0. What game modes you are playing when noticing these issues: TT feels the strongest and consistent of all of modes. Grand Prix is around 20% less, Ranked online feels slightly better than unranked online, but it's around 30% less. I've had to make a separate FFB setting for online use. Whether the issue occurs from a fresh boot of the game and going straight to the track: Yes it always happens without fail. However you start up . Car feels and looks slow to play. Especially in corners. A detailed description of what problems / changes you have noticed in the wheel behaviour: FFB isn't consistent across all game modes. Feels weaker and hollow if that makes sense. No tight feeling in the centre. Not a lot of information anymore. Wheel is changing DOR by itself too. I set it to 360deg in game and on the wheel, 2 red flashes on the wheel base. When it changes itself it goes to 900deg, 4 flashes on the wheel base. Skewing the FFB up. Using a pad together with the wheel triggers it. Pressing the share button to bring up the side menu either by accident or to save a screenshot/video clip then returning to game triggers it. Using theatre/photo mode triggers it. Pressing Ps4 button to read a message or accept an invite to a race lobby triggers it, nightmare for my league this one I have to manually reset to 360deg before heading out to track. My wheel needs 1 and a half turns lock to lock instead of 180deg when it happens. I can reproduce it every time with the above mentioned. The pad doesn't have to be be connected at the same time for the DOR issue to arise either it happens with the pad on or off.
  11. YesItsReallyMe

    Urgent Share button bug PS4 t300 wheel online [ZX]

    @steviejay69 sorry for the Ps4 confusion. I didn't realize pc were having issues too with the FFB. It's really getting annoying now. I have a pamphlet for the game but nothing is in there about using the t300 in PS3 mode. The only wheel shown in the book is the new fanatec DD. I understand that is having issues all of its own since last patch. I've noticed a couple more threads have popped up about thrustmaster resetting DOR since this one. It has to be a game issue surely. I started with this issue tail end of 2018 game after the last patch we got that nerfed the tyres. Obviously carried over to this game for me anyway. @Faya have the team come across anything with this issue yet. Thanks
  12. YesItsReallyMe

    Urgent Share button bug PS4 t300 wheel online [ZX]

    @steviejay69 I'm on ps4. @Faya I've made another detailed thread about this from when the issue started but don't know how to link it in this thread. Sorry for that Thrustmaster DOR issue is the title of the thread in general discussion forum
  13. YesItsReallyMe

    Urgent Share button bug PS4 t300 wheel online [ZX]

    @steviejay69 yes (v29) and it's a brand new servo base too. Offline as long as you don't press the ps button to read a message or anything it's fine. Soon as you go to ps dash and then back into game the DOR changes itself.
  14. YesItsReallyMe

    Urgent Share button bug PS4 t300 wheel online [ZX]

    I've been reporting this issue for weeks. Pressing the share button or ps button to accept a invite or read a message screws the degrees of rotation up on the t300. It makes the wheel reset to 900degrees by itself. Makes the FFB go skewed. Had no reply from codemasters about it. Using Photomode does it. Accepting invite for lobby does it Pressing ps button to take you home screen does it.
  15. YesItsReallyMe

    Thrustmaster DOR Issue

    Another online FFB/DOR issue. Apart from the separate issue of FFB being very weak online compared to offline I've had this... Did a race online 2 nights ago, formation lap got hit by someone from behind. It's dsq me from the formation lap and sent me to the grid. When the race started I had no FFB whatsoever had to turn the wheel 2 and a half times to get round the first corner with no resistance. It was like the wheel wasn't connected to anything. Wheel had reset itself to 1080deg of rotation. Had no other choice but to quit out. The silence on this FFB issue online is starting to make me think that's it's an issue that can't be fixed. Is there anyone from codemasters that can shed some light on these problems please. @Faya
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