janbonator

It's very important that your tyre temperatures are in the correct window. The AI doesn't give a hoot about temps, they will get going even if it rains frozen frogs. What kind of race distances are you doing @Scrogs? In a sense I admire your cautious approach. Most drivers can't resist sending it up the inside in the first or second corner against the AI. On many tracks one can jump around ten places doing so, because the AI doesn't cover it off, but instead just drives in a train on the racing line. Sometimes the first corner is fast, like in Silverstone for example. Leave a bit of room at the start (when starting at the back), and just fly through the corner with Rich and Overtake, and outbrake half the field into T3.. But don't do it online please.

Yes, an alphabetical order would make much more sense than a chronological one. I have up to three setups for many tracks and it can be pain scrolling and finding the right ones.

I think it works fine for the most important info. I'm pretty sure not all of the commands work by speech though. You can still tell you're boxing, ask for car status, drivers front and behind, change the next tires, ask about the weather or tell him to be quiet.

That's it. The reason for @Lurtz 's confusion is probably that for him the event had already ended by the time. In the western hemisphere it starts later and ends later. I wish the time-zone could be changed by the player. For me the races are too early. Oh. and thank you very much @WigglyStyle for that info. Why it isn't the in the game.. who knows.

@WigglyStyle I don't understand the lack of info on this either. Same with the esports qualifier. I think they are scored with a similar formula but I'm not 100% sure on that. What I've gathered from experience of driving these things and comparing screenshots of the results after the run, I've concluded that race time, fastest lap and "clean lap" bonus are not affected by other things. In the Monza qualifier I found that 0.1s improvement on the fastest lap brought about 100 points more. There could be some kind of a variable to this, but I don't think anyone but the devs know it for sure. In terms of the assist bonus, that's directly related to your race time. The better your race time the higher your assist bonus will be on equal assist settings. The same holds true for difficulty level. For a good result you need a clean run. I'm not sure about the weekly events, but in the esport qualifier one warning costs something like 2.5k points. I had a similar reason for going through the trouble of finding out how the scoring works. The scoring system should be public information. Imagine F1 drivers not knowing how many points they get for finishing in position x.. just makes no sense to me.

My feeling is that it has been mostly Tuesdays. We have league race scheduled for Tuesdays and we've had to cancel a race for a patch that came in the evening, and since then there have been 3 patches I think released during Tuesdays, though earlier than the first time. This on PS4.

I don't mind the negotiations happening mid season, that's quite realistic actually, but the transfers shouldn't go through until the end of the season. I'm guessing that's what you meant too.

Well, I should be able to offer some opinion. I used the G29 for about 4 years, mainly with F1 and Dirt Rally as well as some Assetto Corsa. Out of all three, the force feedback felt worst in the Codies F1 games, but I found it very nice for Dirt Rally and decent for Assetto Corsa, most of the time anyways. In F1 games the main problem is that you kind of have to choose between a vague steering and one that wants to rip of your wrists. I'm sure you'll have a great time with it though, I did for sure, even with its shortcomings. The main problem of the G29 is the brake pedal, which is atrocious for accurate braking. I'm talking about G29 because that's what I had and for all intent and purpose it's exactly the same wheel as the G923, and which in turn was exactly the same as the G27 (have that one as well) in terms of FFB. Basically Logitech has sold three generations of the same wheel by adding a few buttons here and there. The new version has some kind of a vibration thing, but I don't think it's supported by the Codies F1 game yet. In any case, a couple of months ago I bought the T300RS GT for a good bargain and I have not been disappointed. My braking has improved dramatically and so has my driving, albeit after an adjustment period. It doesn't feel quite as choppy or vague in terms of FFB and the pedals are a mile ahead. Interestingly, though, it has taken me a long time (thousands of laps) to achieve about the same level of control and recovery when the back-end snaps out, especially in the wet. I'm not sure what the effect is called, perhaps oscillation, when the wheel wants to go back and forth like a pendulum. I'm quite certain the effect wasn't even closely as severe with the G29. My main concern with the T300 is that the attachment between the base and the rim comes loose while driving, making the wheel start to flex. It might be because hard-mounted on a rig and the forces applied take the route of least resistance. I read there's some kind of a bit sold in the net to fix that problem, but so far I've been content to tighten it on the main straight with one hand when needed. All in all, if you haven't raced with other wheels, you will not be disappointed with the Logitech. They're also super durable. I used a G27 and a G29 for ten years and never had a single problem. Performance and comfort wise the Thrustmaster is clearly better in my opinion. The durability is a bit of a concern and I'm not too optimistic of it running much past its warranty period, but I could be wrong. I would have a tough time accepting a world in which I had to revert back to the G29, in F1 games at least.

No, drove with it for years. The wheel is fine if you set your in-game steering wheel rotation correctly. What's correct is up to you, but I highly doubt it's the 900 degrees the wheel can offer. Try something like 270-360. I'd strongly recommend toning down the on-track and off-track effects on the wheel settings, at least if you like to do long sessions and wish to have your wrists fully functional afterwards. If anything it's the pedals that are the problem, or one pedal in particular. I'm sure you'll find out which soon enough..

I remember I was once equally baffled with the same question. There was some kind of an obvious answer that made me feel quite silly, but it's been a while since I had to assign any controls. Are you sure there isn't something like an "unbind" function, perhaps with the "options" button? I don't think that can be assigned for anything in-game, so it would make sense. I will check it tomorrow if someone hasn't already come up with a definitive answer by then. Oh, and I'm about 90% sure you can only unassign/unbind a control before selecting it. What I'm saying is, you have a list of controls, but if you press x on a control, you can only assign a button for it. Scroll the list to the desired control function, but don't press x. I think there's a tooltip for unbinding a button. There's an upside to spelling on a computer compared to a pen, though. You can easily edit your post without making it look like a mess.

Did you ever figure out why, how or where the AI is fast when it has a maxed out car? Apex speeds, exit traction, straight line speed? Did you start getting problems with tyre temperatures after maxing out downforce on the car? These two questions are interlinked. The AI is practically unaffected by tyre temperatures, so I'm wondering if that's what's going on here.

Does the attachment between the rim and the base get loose during the race? I don't have the F1 add-on, but the attachment loosens up and I have to tighten it on the main straight during a race. On some tracks more often than others and in the rain more than in the dry. I've never had it active buttons by itself though, but I could imagine it starting to do something like that if it gets loose enough. Then again, if the problem cancels itself after just going into another session, this is probably not the issue.

So that's where Kimi left his gloves.

That's very nice, thank you! When doing this, DRS assist will be on, though? So you get deducted points for using an assist?

I'm a wheel user and drive in cockpit and agree with your latter statement. For me it's not as much a question of handling though - the camera bounces and vibrates more in cockpit and I think that draws me to softer suspension settings than I would use otherwise. On some tracks, China being a great example, I'm sure everyone has a problem with their (left) front. Spain is similar. There are differences on some tracks, though. What happens with your tyres in Baku or Canada? For me those tracks are examples of being rear-limited.

If you want to go through the trouble you could test whether it's about the AI. Create a new league, invite a friend as a reserve and put AI cars in the session. If it works, it's most likely about the AI setting, which I actually think it is. This is just conjecture, but I would imagine the system works so that the "regular" drivers have a reserved spot on the grid, which the game only knows to give up if an AI car is added to its place. Then you'd be able to invite a reserve. Like I said, I have no experience with the in-game league system but that's what I see as a possibility.

Sadly you have valid points. There is no system for cheaters, although for those who qualify CM can require to provide video proof of the run, but it doesn't seem to be what's required of everyone, at least last year. In the previous iteration I got through the heavy rain Japan qualification round but was not asked to provide video of the attempt - which was disappointing, since there was a blatant corner cutting glitch on the track in the last chicane that might have been exploited by many. I spent 35 hours driving that event during the week. Would have spared much frustration if I knew the drivers in front weren't cutting the chicane. Right now there's still the flashback glitch. What's worse, the whole event is bugged out. After your first attempt (after quitting the session), in your future attempts the fuel is locked to standard (fuel assist on). On a track like Monza, that's game over. Might be a good idea to test the event before launch in the future, testing it at least twice would be very nice and shouldn't take too much time. EDIT: In terms of controller vs. the wheel, at least last year the rules stipulated that one cannot qualify with a controller. Pad drivers are free to drive the event but it won't count as a qualification run. Would be very nice to have some information about who drives on the pad and who drives on the wheel, though. It's impossible to know one's "real" position on the leaderboards.

It actually quite hard to break the rear wing of the car in front. The low-profile nose cones of the current cars means they are more likely to duck underneath the car rather than on top of it. The incident would need to be something like Leclerc-Vettel in Austria. A more "realistic" event would be damage to the rear diffusor, which has a huge impact on overall downforce and the balance of the car. However, personally I'm actually quite happy it's not simulated, at least online. It's bad enough to get 5 second penalties for other cars crashing into the back of you behind the SC. The frustration would be through the roof if it also meant rear diffusor or rear wing damage, which are unfixable during a race.

There are tracks on which it's very hard to start scrolling and looking at what kind of strategies Jeff is proposing, as the time window is only 30 seconds. Tracks like Monaco, Hungary and Singapore are so intense that there are parts of the track where I can't simply take my eyes off the road for a long enough time to see what's up. Many other tracks also have ~30 second sections where I find it difficult, especially when racing other cars.

In the first season I've found the AI level to be very hard to judge. On one track 104 might be good while another one would need 109. What's more striking to me is the complete lack of DNFs coupled with solid results. Usually it's a sign of extensive flashbacking.

Like @tarrantino mentioned, your Safety Car setting has a huge impact on what kind of strategy to pick. I haven't raced a 100% Spa in this game, so I'm not sure about the degradation. On 50% it's an easy soft-medium one-stop, even if you start with the tires you used in quali (softs). If you're starting from the back of the grid and the SC is on, I wouldn't start on the hardest tyre. I'd probably go for the medium to start with, so that I'd have good range to cover any SC variables. If the SC comes out early, go in and take the hards and use them until the end. If it comes towards the end of the medium stint, you might be able to go in for new softs, and 2-3 laps behind the SC might just give you enough range to race them until the end. The mediums at the start will also mean that you'll be able to put pressure and make passes right from the get-go. If you have problems with straight line-speed, you could go for a very cheeky tactic of starting on the softs, pit earlier than the medium runners and undercut them with hards after taking advantage of clean air. If no SC appears, you could race them until the end, or if it does, pit for mediums/softs.

I don't understand why he can't just say "A new strategy [...] mediums, lap 16." It takes away the whole point of audio information if it's to only inform you of visual information.

In real life DRS closes when the driver goes off the throttle. Might not even have to go fully off the throttle.

With the topic of question in mind, I dug into some telemetry data of my driving. I only have data for a couple of tracks (Silverstone, Hungary, Spa), but at least on these tracks I don't use more than 60% of steering lock. I think on tracks such as those 360 degrees would work very well for me too, but the problems come with certain tracks like Monaco, Singapore and Tilke chicanes & hairpins in general.

270 degrees for me (Thrustmaster T300). I don't want to have to cross my arms in a hairpin, hence the reduced radius. I find the wheel a bit too large (without the F1 rim) for 360 in F1 games, but like said above, it's really a matter of personal preference.