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steviejay69

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Everything posted by steviejay69

  1. Do people not actually read threads anymore and wait to be replied to individually? A lot of the detection issues are with people with multiple monitors (I have only a single display) but it is assumed you have set them up correctly. The recommendation is for 446.14 - 1903 and 1909 are identical codebase (1909 will last longer and can be enabled with the 1909 enablement package, it should see the game lifecycle out). GTX1050 won't support any of the new driver features. However, as I attested in an earlier post, 446.14 also works on 2004 - but if your PC has a block on 2004, why update? They are still ironing out issues with the build.
  2. Guys, 446.14 will work on 1909 and 2004 on older cards. 450.xx branch for 2004 (DLSS off, possibly HAGS - can't test as running 1060) 441.xx branch for 1909 if your cards are RTX, there is the issue. All the suggestions here are to turn off DLSS if you have the option. You don't need to disable any overlays.
  3. steviejay69

    F1 2020 | NVIDIA Drivers - PC

    No, F1 doesn't support any of the newer technologies.
  4. steviejay69

    F1 2020 | NVIDIA Drivers - PC

    446.14 works with both 1909 and 2004. That's because the 450.xx branch is being developed for the RTX (DLSS 2.0) and HAGS is most likely to show benefit at 1440 (effectively the realm of xx80(Ti) )
  5. steviejay69

    Logitech G29 vs. Thrustmaster T300RS GT wheel

    They are unique. I owned the Acelith aluminium mod for the RS wheel - honestly it's great compared to the RS wheel, so light the FFB although turned down as mentioned is MUCH better. Ultimately I still preferred the F1 Rim and I tried the Open Wheel but it lacks buttons for me. Your mileage may vary. As for Acelith they won't open pre-orders until they do a run, just register and they will keep you in the loop. Covid came just at the wrong time for them. They are much better than any other mod for those standard rims that I've seen but I understand they will be trying to return to normal service very soon.
  6. steviejay69

    Logitech G29 vs. Thrustmaster T300RS GT wheel

    I ended up replacing the fan with a lower power draw, better CFM rated one. The Noctua replacement is highly peer recommended. Check the shifter issue isn't just a connected controller. My CSPs go mad if there is an X360 controller plugged in. Think this may well be a Codies issue.
  7. steviejay69

    Logitech G29 vs. Thrustmaster T300RS GT wheel

    Yes the F1 Rim looks plastic but you don't look at it when racing 🙂 Check out the Acelith mods for the T300 RS and GT wheels (and G29 for Logitech owners reading). T3PA Pro for a premium pedal set seem to still need mods. They can be inverted. The T-LCM are already being modded.... Load cells are the best for brakes, it's the one area I'm not settled. I have some Clubsport v1 and I would hugely prefer a left foot brake (have modded the other pedals I've owned). Can't decide whether to stick with the CSPv1 or go for the CSL Elite with LC. I just feel that Fanatec are recycling the CSP design over as most of the v3 (can be bought with inversion kit) owners want the performance kit or change to Heusinkveld Sprints. But then, organ donation time again.
  8. steviejay69

    Logitech G29 vs. Thrustmaster T300RS GT wheel

    Having owned both G27/G920 and T300 I've posted various takes on these wheels. For price the Logitech is strong and should work flawlessly for many years, the pedals are robust and can be simply modded. The wheel cannot be changed but mods are available. It's ergonomically well thought out. The force feedback is quite strong but is limited due to the helical gears, some may not like the centre 'float' before the gear kicks in. The Thrustmaster is more expensive. There are question marks over the longevity of the T300 but if you run it with reduced FFB settings and have the fan 'always on' it can be reliable. I owned both for about 2 years and both were still like new by the time I upgraded. The belt drive / gears of the Thrustmaster is better for fidelity and the wheel rims can be exchanged for different ones. For F1, the F1 Rim is the best. It's solidly built, but the weakest point is perhaps the (internal) shifter switches. I did have to replace one and I did it with the uprated Omron switch (10x the presses MTBF). For me, the pedals are the weak point having owned the stock T3PA and seen the T2PA in action. I actually used the Logitech pedals (modded with GTEye) from a G25. This does require a passive adapter (or a more expensive USB one like the Leo Bodnar). Both had minor build quality issues (loose screws and the like, important not to overtighten). Both will suffer shifter paddle failures if abused, unfortunately they are ultimately toys compared to Fanatec equipment I have now. However, Fanatec are a bit more involved with firmwares and drivers depending on which combo you settle upon. They are also much more expensive, but relatively you get what you pay for. Can't comment on the higher end Thrustmaster T-GT, TS-XW and TS-PC. There is no high end with Logitech, that is it. Fanatec want a organ donation for their high end stuff.
  9. steviejay69

    Racenet issue

    There is supposed to be an update, currently it only links to the old site, but it does tie up multiple account IDs under 1 email. Maybe the much requested cross platform links could eventually be pushed through Racenet.
  10. steviejay69

    Bugs My team

    Please post a bug report in the correct section as per the forum banner.
  11. steviejay69

    Unable to talk to the Race Engineer

    You need a microphone to speak to the engineer, regardless of controller. And you need to reframe the question as a bug report (it's not, it's just a lack of knowledge or equipment).
  12. Your game has not started there is no hardware_settings in the zip. You need to start the game in safe mode, the instructions are in the readme in the Steam game folder. (Your crash is for DX11, DX12 will work on your hardware but 446.14 is recommended or the DLSS 'fix' for 451.67). C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\Steamapps\Common\F1 2020 Your drivers are old, update to 446.14
  13. You need to set auto and have more space on system drive.
  14. You don't need to do all that troubleshooting. Do you not think that your 120GB SSD is full? How are you managing the page file and swap file settings? Hint: Auto, needs space....
  15. steviejay69

    F1 2020 | NVIDIA Drivers - PC

    Just to update, I can confirm the 446.14 driver seems stable after a good couple of hours playing across modes and in 'problem' areas on 2004 latest update 19041.388. If anyone still getting crashes adds their dxdiag and / or crashdump (zip not EGO Dumper....)
  16. I will upload the media somehow might be a PM but I have now tested 446.14 on 2004 with Steam overlay working and GFE. I will PM you as soon as I have something.
  17. A2 is a BIOS stop code. MSI board? Probably the USB drive (non-bootable) inserted....
  18. I have 1909 machine images to restore to. Always, always, cover your ass where MS is concerned. And I have the created USB media.
  19. **** that's disappointing. Heaven help me there is no escape from 2004 we're ******* doomed. 🙂 Let me file share it somewhere, I'll get back to you.
  20. Yeah you need to clean install, create the USB media and boot to it.
  21. I could play online no issues when TT *was* crashing. Maybe time spent in menus is bad and playing the actual game on track is good. Plus TT would only crash under specific conditions, unlike the beta which just crashed on exit, so I think that might've been Steam. Anyway doesn't alter the fact the GPU vendors have got greedy since the bitcoin mining market blew up. They want to sell you new product more frequently, what better way than driver soup that tastes like sour milk?
  22. steviejay69

    F1 2020 | NVIDIA Drivers - PC

    Default settings for the game is V-SYNC off, this means, render frames as fast as possible. Framerates soar in the menus because there is so little to do. This either crashes the GPU due to overheat, stress if OCed, badly installed thermal protection and loose heatsinks. Always frame cap. Anything higher than what your monitor can do is overkill.
  23. steviejay69

    TS-XW with F1 wheel

    So it was Codies all along then 🙂 New 2020_TTRS_2 tells you your T3PAs are "low resolution pedals" 😉 @BarryBL this is something your devs could fix in F1 2019. How about a bone to the masses following behind hoping to pick up the game for a song?
  24. The Nvidia drivers are garbage and then trying to run when walking would be best. They don't give a hoot about 10 series, you need to upgrade (their thinking). I'm going to take a look at 2004 in a while.
  25. steviejay69

    F1 2020 | NVIDIA Drivers - PC

    You need to uninstall your OEM GPU driver and block it from installing. It is not Nvidia that is blocking you it is the manufacturer of whatever notebook you are using. Flame them, shame them, do whatever. Uninstall the driver in the Control Panel, restart, go to the Advanced System properties, select 'No'. Uninstall the driver from device manager, remembering to tick the 'Delete the driver software for this device'. Restart. Install the updated driver you've downloaded. Bingo.
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