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steviejay69

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Posts posted by steviejay69


  1. 5 hours ago, Gianchy74 said:

    Hi, ok thanks I' ll try. Till now I have used the menu, configuring the DMT function, but I' m not using shortcut. This because I get the "attention tip" that say, button already used for other function. Just one information, do you have this message when you configure the wheel as shortcut ? The strange thing is that from the menu, I use "PL" button to enter in DMT function and the wheel to navigate and modify settings. They works perfectly for all the other settings, but when I select ERS, no way to get change.

    Have you updated the wheel firmware, T300 should be v31? (Done on a PC with the wheel in PS3 mode, all the drivers and instructions are on the Thrustmaster website).

    If you have and still have the issue, I would delete the custom control scheme and remap the original default profile then save it as custom. It will warn you if you try to map a control that would then be a conflict. So, if there is a conflict, either unbind the existing control using the same key or use another key.


  2. dxdiag still shows 445.75

    The HP Prodesk 400 has many variants, can you please specify which one? Better still if you go to hp.com, click the support link and let HP detect your machine.

    There are recent BIOS updates. I'd advise applying the correct one (once detected).

    Also this is the second PC that I've seen with issues that has a KIngston A400 SSD. Not sure if that's significant yet.


  3. 36 minutes ago, Blackerat said:

    Thanks for the reply, will be a week before I get back on the gaming rig, if there is no known remedy I will just uninstall until I have more time, after this pandemic, runs everything else flawlessly, appreciate you need info, but I have no time to troubleshoot your game.

    We're troubleshooting, you're running a diagnostic. A dxdiag takes 30 seconds including uploading, probably less time than it took you to type the reply.


  4. 2 hours ago, DANTHA said:

    Hey Steviejay69,

    many many thanks for your great answer, I‘m very thankful.

    In the meantime I found a solution.


    Win 10 Sound-Control-Panel:

    PLAYBACK: 

    —> BT headset (default device)

    —> Realtek Speaker (only active)

    RECORDING:

    —> separate 3,5mm jack mic from an older cellphone 🙂 (Realtek High Definition Audio - default device)

     

    Bodyshaker like described above via Amplifier —> 3,5mm jack —> Soundcard —> Sim Hub (Output: Audio Speaker - Realtek High Definition Audio)

    BTW: I don‘t have some irritations, it works really!! great because with Sim Hub you can adjust which frequency goes e.g. to front- and rear. Here I only use „Road rumble, Road vibration, Simulated road texture, and Speed„ and I can’t feel Jack‘s voice :))

    Besides the 2 Bodyshaker I use 2 small vibration-motors, 1 for Brake and 1 for Gas-pedal. Controlled also via Sim Hub over an arduino uno. With Sim Hub you can exactly adjust the amount of slip, or vibrate only when locking, threshold, gain and and and 🙂

    To make it complete for open wheeler feeling, I’ve mounted 2 small cpu-fans at my Wheelbase, also controlled via Sim Hub and Arduino. The fans getting controlled in relation to game speed... it’s working fantastic.

    Thanks again!

    @DANTHA thanks for posting the solution you found, it's valuable!

    • Thanks 1

  5. 1 hour ago, Kilson76 said:

    I believe I have fixed the issue. Looks like the game will always have slight deadzone if a gamepad was detected, even through a wheel, I believe steam was making my wheel detect as a gamepad so the game was applying the deadzone. Whats strange is that the setting page will show no evidence of this, only when actually driving the car. Also it appears to have applied a large linearity independent of what the setting page was set to as well. Anyway disabling any input from Steam, so it never gets involved in controller setup seems to have fixed it and better still handling is now so much better, if a lot harder to get used to. 

    Apologies if I wasted anyone's time I did do plenty of searches, just didn't use the correct terms it seems.

    Coming back with the fix is extremely valuable so thank you. The search feature is terrible, I give you that!


  6. I have added a Discord server for this week. At the moment @BarryBL has the invite link, I will leave it to him to make it known to the other racers. It will be more helpful that just having Steam chat to organise the session. Also, be aware that the voice channel is PTT so get ready to map a spare button.

    Voice channel use should be minimal in race. Please use it to make other drivers aware if there is a contact, but please try not to get too heated. It will be useful for qualifying too to warn drivers if you are on a hotlap and they are not observing the minimap or mirrors closely.

    • Like 1

  7. 17 hours ago, DANTHA said:

    When I disconnect the bluetooth connection, I get the complete game sound incl. multiplayer voices through the Bodyshaker (very damped).

    Here is the problem. The Bluetooth plus the unusual peripheral / connection. You say it connects via your audio jack - this will almost certainly confuse the audio driver (jack autodetection).

    There is an advanced audio setting to separate all the outputs of a kind (input or output) you possibly need to separate them (or combine them and mute ones you don't need)*. 

    You then need to choose the specific audio devices in Windows, setting the Bluetooth to be the default sound device and the default comms device. Then go into the game and select those specific devices. You can test the output in the in-game menu.

    If you are using the Steam comms for audio the settings for that are in the Steam Settings (from the Steam client).

    I have no idea how the Bodyshaker is supposed to work, even the Amazon page and a Googled video leaves me thinking it's just a speaker basically that vibrates more than it gives sound. (That sounds so rudimentary to me that Jeff speaking will tickle your backside - I'm being generous in what he's tickling here, I can think of worse pictures).

    *This might then mean you need to group outputs so you get the speaker sound across the soundcard output.

    But I don't think you can group the Bluetooth audio out with the on-board audio out (as it's a separate device), which makes the Bluetooth and the Bodyshaker incompatible. So you could get what you need with a front audio jack headset and the outputs combined to the Bodyshaker with the rear mic muted. That's my guess, it would be easier to be sure if I had the hardware.

    • Thanks 1

  8. 3 hours ago, GioProductions said:

    Ps4 gamer here also.

    I am using the same F1 add on wheel from Thrustmaster and the way i do it, is by selecting in the game menu "shortcut" the dials button on my wheel. I am using the left one as fuel in/decrease when rotating and the right dial button as ERS increase/decrease.

     

    Can you try with the shortcut?20191005_092838.thumb.jpg.48f52be55807b12f8d1da06936bf8d56.jpg20200329_001129.thumb.jpg.6c4f5abeb1b96d42ce31f032cd483b4f.jpg

    @GioProductions I think he has the controls already selected, it is just the ability to adjust the ERS at all due to the assist restrictions or assist settings. 


  9. 12 hours ago, pachedupdemon said:

    I'm new to f1 2019, ought while it was on sale and couldn't join any online race, until I swapped fro my 5ghz ipv6 to 2.4gh ipv4, just letting folks now how I solved my issue, being as it was the same issue as the op, failed to join with no error code

    IPv6 is not supported by the game. Many UK ISPs still can't actually use it either. The support has to start with the service providers, it's worth turning off all the IPv6 stuff on routers at this point in time.

    And 5GHz has nothing to do with IPv6/IPv4. It's to do with WiFi spec. 802.11ac I think.


  10. 3 minutes ago, Gianchy74 said:

    I' m not in multiplayer, just during weekend event. So the setting ERS to manual is from main menu (out of the event) or in the weekend option ? 

    Thanks

    I'm not sure, but I would check there yes. I'm sorry but I don't use all the modes.


  11. In the assist menu you need to have the ERS set to manual. If you are in a multiplayer lobby the assist RESTRICTIONS need to be set to allow manual ERS (can't remember which way around this is worded but I think Automatic mandates the use of Auto ERS regardless of the individual assist setting).


  12. 2 hours ago, Kilson76 said:

    Hello all,

    I seem to have an issue with the deadzone for the steering, however its not like all the other issues i have read on here. Within setting calibration the detection of turning of the wheel is instant, it goes from 1 to 100 smoothly in both directions, with no deadzone. However when in game i need to turn the wheel to about 8 before it will detect and at this point the steering jumps straight to 8, ruling out any finer movements. This isn't so bad on corners but on the straights it can cause problems. 

    Anyone had this issue before? It can pick up all movements in the settings screen but just not when actually in game.

    You need to post a full bug report if the wheel is on the supported list for the game.


  13. 3 minutes ago, PDT69 said:

    Game won’t load Baku track so I can’t score towards Elite championship.It also has now stopped loading Mexico even though I have qualified. Just started the American series and guess what? I qualified at Austin but the game is crashing when loading the first race!!

    You need to post a bug report.


  14. 1 hour ago, Miraya75 said:

    My board is the ASUS B85-Pro Gamer and the silicon Power SSD is m2.

    and thanks for your help !!!

    Btw. i'm using the Logitech G935 wireless headset. Is it really possible that this one causes this error like yohan wrote in another thread?

    Yes, if it has a USB audio dongle (according to specifications, it does) try GHub updating firmware if available, but yeah, try troubleshooting without. 

    The updated 2203 BIOS is here, FWIW. I still can't update the uCode due to encapsulation, so use the KB4497165 update as linked earlier.

    SPCC toolbox (I put it on Dropbox as it's behind a verification page so hardlinking isn't possible)


  15. 1 hour ago, cryp119 said:

    dont d3, exactly b150 pro gaming

     

    BIOS builds don't match with the B150 Pro Gaming, there was no 0601 BIOS, well none that is listed on support site, except B150 Pro Gaming D3.

    So, don't try to match the BIOS unless you are sure. Some routines have version checking, always backup the existing BIOS before programming new. And also, know the recovery process - some allow blind flash via specific USB ports with a correctly named file, or there is a boot / key sequence to use recovery BIOS, which may be factory spec.


  16. I don't understand why you have the second address at all.

    Essentially with the subnet mask you have you should only use 192.168.1.x addresses, they'll be what's set up in the router. Without reprogramming it to route 192.168.0.x addresses (unless your router is very advanced and can accept user-defined routing tables, most aren't) then essentially it seems like if your device IS visible in the LAN, nothing will be routed.

    If as I suspect, you are physically moving the device between two different local networks, then ideally you should have the device configured to use DHCP leasing or change the routers to assign the device a reserved IP (on each network). Either way, it means your configuration is the issue.

    Having two addresses is wrong. Neither are fully routable on the opposite configured network. A fallback address would only work when you are on a publicly routed network, to connect to another local device with external routing.


  17. 15 hours ago, 102Pigi said:

    I have it installed on "I:" as is where I had enough space on a SSD Disk, and yes, I know I'm somewhat under spec.

    That shouldn't, btw, justify the fact that it don't start. At least it should go slow, but not simply not starting without any crashdump ( IMHO ) .

    Your opinion is wrong. Unless CM just 'decide' on an arbitrary minimum spec....

    Different generations of CPU have different hardware instruction sets. If the game uses (or relies on one) then the code may run slowly, crash or not work at all. Plus the older the kit, the less likely it is to have any new patches or workaround considerations.

    The GPU does not support DX12, period. The driver is not DX12 capable. Just because the OS is, if the device isn't capable, it won't work.

    DX11 is your best bet, but even then the driver is five years old. Upgrading to a supported GPU may be a way forward.

    If you want to throw everything you have at it then I suggest a reinstall once you've sorted out your partitions. You seem to have had some indication from runtimes, but as I said, those drivers do rely heavily on runtimes so you may just be hitting a driver error rather than any game foilble.

    Have Steam installed to C:\ unless you want to start messing with the PATH commands. Or just copying the .dlls to anywhere they can't be found. But, versioning is sometimes extremely important when you are dealing with unsupported legacy hardware and software.

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