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steviejay69

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Posts posted by steviejay69

  1. Posted

    JR6492 said:
    Btw anyone in here with a g29 remove the rubber piece in brake pedal? I want to do it as I currently use the clutch as the brake but I heard that you can’t remove the piece anymore due to a software update or something?
    Why would you remove it?  I have had a G27 and now use a G29. The G29 feel so much better as to brake harder you have to push harder rather than push the pedal further. The G29 is far more realistic and you can feel how hard you’re braking. 
    Depends how many games you play or what type of vehicles. I use a G25 pedalset (no rubber) but the springs are GTEye and because I use left foot braking, I use the clutch. But you can swap the springs anyway.

  2. Posted

    JR6492 said:
    ChironTheseus said:
    Okay thanks JR6492, its not always easy to judge by pictures and videos to how it could be in person. I have quite large hands so don't want to struggle with handling it, the PS4 controller is bad enough lol! But having a wheel with better placement buttons will help me not be so spider like with my fingers when trying to play F1 using all the added goodies.
    Yeah but you’ll spend time reconfiguring button layouts for ers, fuel mix etc.. if anything it would prob help if the wheel was a little smaller as I’ve crashed a few times trying to change them. It takes getting used to
    I found the G920 easy when coming from the G27. Unless you have the shifter mounted for the extra buttons the G27 is a bit limited. The G29/G920 are basically a controller in the wheel middle, far easier to adapt to and I think I changed very little from the default assignments.

  3. Posted

    ChironTheseus said:
    Okay thanks JR6492, its not always easy to judge by pictures and videos to how it could be in person. I have quite large hands so don't want to struggle with handling it, the PS4 controller is bad enough lol! But having a wheel with better placement buttons will help me not be so spider like with my fingers when trying to play F1 using all the added goodies.
    The G29 is a 28" Leather finished wheel. I am 6'4" with hands like shovels. The F1 Rim is 26" and I have no problem with the wheel size. Ergonomically the Logitech is excellent (I had a G27 and a G920 before the T300).

  4. Posted

    Thanks steviejay69 was seeing if I could save a bit of money but I won't be modding as never had a wheel before so will stick at my first, plus PS4 so not so easy to get the patch support so easy. Strange they made the Thrustmaster servo base for PS4 only available through TM making it more costly but the Xbox version is widely available at very competitive prices.
    They're different. Plus the PS4 market is much bigger than XB1. 

    Equivalent wheels (going up in price)

    T80 (PS3) F458 (X360)
    T80 F488 GTB (PS4) F458 Spider (XB1)
    T150 (PS4/PS3) TMX (XB1)
    T150 Pro (PS4/PS3) TMX Pro (XB1)
    T300 (PS4/PS3) TX (XB1) * both available as servo base only
    T500 (PS4/PS3 discontinued)
    T-GT (PS4) TS-XW (XB1) TS-PC (PC Only)

    All the wheels have PC support AFAIK 
    Pedalsets and rims may vary but the pedalsets are basic (2-pedal), advanced (3 pedal) and premium (metal 3 pedal) 
    Shifter is always extra and ecosystem is 100% compatible from T300 & equivalent upwards.

  5. Posted

    ChironTheseus said:
    ThrustMaster Ferrari F1 Add-On Wheel is a must for me I think.. ;)
    However I am stuck on the base.. 
    Thrustmaster VG T300RS Racing Wheel Servo Base for PS4 is a whooping £229.99! .. Just for a base..
    However..
    Logitech G29 Driving Force Racing Wheel and Pedals £179.99! < Anyone who has this G29, is the wheel removable AND if so suitable for the ThrustMaster Ferrari F1 Add-On Wheel?
    You need a Thrustmaster servo base for the F1 Rim. The G29 wheel is non-removable unless you are happy modding it yourself.

    There IS a mod kit to do exactly that but I'm not sure the button function would be 100% on console but I'm sure PC would be more compatible, however if anyone's done it they'd be the best placed to answer. Basically you'd have a G29 as far as the PS4 went.

  6. Posted

    ChironTheseus said:
    Thank you so much guys for the info and advice especially setups and what to look for especially.

    Can't for the life of me find the t300rs for sale lol! Must be amazing! But the Thrustmaster Ferrari F1 Add-on wheel looks a very tempting sale if it works well on the PS4 for button configuration etc. Some awesome stands available too, I can see why these are recommended. My wishlist is nearly complete I think..
    PC allows a little more flexibility in the button configuration with 'Advanced Mode' but some are duplicate and some are locked to default navigation in the F1 game.

  7. Posted

    I think it all depends on space. If you share the TV (living room) Id say wheel stand. If you use your own monitors or TV then a rig is probably justifiable. 

    Can't disagree about the responses here, Logitech is very affordable as a complete set (wheel, pedals and shifter). Thrustmaster is better for wheel, but their pedals are inexcusable. Logitech mods are cheap and Thrustmaster have an add-on system for the T300 upwards. Hence I have a T300 the F1 Rim and a set of modded Logitech pedals with adapter all mounted on a GT Omega Pro Rig. I used to use my own 40" TV but I switched to a 24" Freesync monitor mounted on the rig. Gives the same FoV.

    PC is the most versatile but the combo I have would transfer to a PS4. 

    I think the only upgrade I would consider next is DD but feedback intensity isn't a necessity in F1 and maybe load cell pedals but TBH it's not really that affordable for the hours I don't play.

  8. Posted

    KingAV said:
    benclau said:
    Ok. Got it to work again. I had to uninstall LGS and manually delete in the registry file every registries containing "logitech", "G29" and/or "force wheel". Reinstall LGS and  replugged the wheel. It now works but for how long?

    how do you do all that, sorry for replying to an old thread but I got this same issue since yesterday


    search for geek uninstaller, download and run it, uninstall LGS, remove all traces, reboot

    download latest LGS from ftp://ftp.logitech.com/pub/techsupport/gaming/LGS_9.00.42_x64_Logitech.exe

    install, connect wheel, reboot

    set profile, start game, remap controls

  9. Posted

    YorkyPudsy said:
    Thanks. I can imagine how different vsync settings might interfere with input polling if the game handles it poorly.  I can't claim to know much about XHCI/EHCI, but FWIW my G29 is connected via a USB3 hub to a USB3 port on the mainboard, as are most of my devices, though I think I have a couple of things on USB2 too. Perhaps I could try the G29 on USB2, although I did previously try unplugging all other devices & still had the issue.

    I haven't had this double-input problem with any other games (with the same adaptive sync setting & using the same devices, connected in the same way), so I suppose if either of those things are a factor, it's possibly something that the game should be dealing with better.
    When troubleshooting any USB device then the use of hubs (passive or otherwise) is inadvisable. I strongly suggest at least trying the USB 2.0 (EHCI) ports as well as removing any extraneous USB devices (I see you tried this last bit).

  10. Posted

    YorkyPudsy said:
    I think the whole issue of controllers registering inputs correctly needs looking at. Mis-shifts and particularly missed down-shifts is becoming more common, but this appears to be tied in with the refresh rates and polling due to the display sync (or not).
    That's also interesting to read. Now that you mention it, I do recall an odd instance where a shift was missed, or perhaps there was a double-shift. It hasn't been a regular occurrence or something I could reproduce (whereas the double input from the red dial on the Logitech G29 is very easy to reproduce), so I just put it down to me being sloppy with my use of the paddles on those couple of occasions!

    But you mention a possible link with refresh rate/polling... is there anything in particular that makes you say that, or any other relevant symptoms/info that might help CM investigate these kind of input issues? As I mentioned originally, I tried the game at various refresh rates (60/120/144Hz) to try to eliminate that as a cause (based on my experience of FFB issues with earlier F1 games at >100Hz). But I do have Nvidia adaptive sync enabled, and I don't think I tried turning that off, for example.
    With adaptive sync you get no slowdown of any routines whereas with simple V-SYNC or frame rate capping you do.
    Also with XHCI controllers the polling can be smart / bursty and on EHCI it's constant but lower.

  12. Posted

    BoothJoe said:
    I don't know if it's the same Logitech Profiler for the G29 as the G27, but in the G27 profiler you can have different profiles for each game. If you have a custom profile, it's possible for you to reassign the axis, buttons, etc., just for that game. It's also possible to change the sensitivity within the profiler...the default is 50%. You can do all these by setting up a new game profile and clicking on the button and selecting properties. Maybe you have switched the assignments in a custom profile, which would explain why it would work for one game  but not for another. Again, I don't know the G29 Logitech profiler, so this might not apply.


    No the G27 and G29 profilers are completely different.

    G27 = LGS 5.10 final

    G29 = LGS 8.xx and higher

  13. Posted

    YorkyPudsy said:
    Try LGS 8.96.81 and report back. Body is 8 characters too short.
    Thanks. I should have looked for an update before posting.
    However, I've just updated to the latest version you mentioned & unfortunately the issue remains.
    I couldn't see any specific reference to the G29 on recent LGS patch notes (just generic 'minor fixes'), not since the version I listed above (that's the reason I last updated LGS).

    I've also tried another test...
    I setup a fresh new F1 2017 controller config, by using the option to "Duplicate" the default G29 profile, and then I simply added mappings to the Fuel Mix +/- MFD shortcuts for the red dial. I just wanted to eliminate any possible custom controls mappings I had. The problem still existed though.

    And I've just popped into rFactor to double-check a controls mapping for the dial in there, and it is working as expected, only registering once for each "notch" moved on the dial.
    Yeah general observations for anyone updating anything or bugtesting.

    @YorkyPudsy is reproducing the issue
    He is removing other issues and isolating the symptom
    He is feeding back more information

    Updates: Often have undocumented fixes. You may want to try regression testing if an update solves an issue. Often developers will use the latest drivers or versions of products whilst working. It helps if you follow suit.

    If you don't update and you insist on staying at a certain build or version of something, be aware you are underwriting your own technical debt and need to understand why you do it and it's limitations when it comes to future/forward compatibility.

    I like vanilla. KISS.

  15. Posted

    PIGBOY05 said:
    Hi guys,i havent even started F1 2014 yet but i know in another game i had to download an older version of logitech profiler..I know most of you may have tried this but i just want to put it out there.When i get into me old computer(Could barely run F1 2010) ill have the profiler version,
    Pick any version you like from here;

    ftp://ftp.logitech.com/pub/techsupport/joystick/

  16. Posted

    Access the options menu from any game mode.

    Go to Driving Controls, leave the controller set to joypad. Use keyboard left / right to select joypad if not already selected. Try toggling the Override Device Input Type between wheel and pad.

    From there the further options are turning off the Force Feedback as this controller cannot use it. The advanced wheel options may help when fine tuning the  responses. Deadzone is what it says - the amount of turn required to deviate the wheel from the centre / straight position and saturation - the higher the saturation the more sensitive the steering, less movement from centre to achieve lock.

  17. Posted

    Created a new profile then it labelled all the Remote data with profile 1 and profile 2.

    Deleted all the Profile 1 stuff (not all the same date) then went into the game and deleted profile 2.

    This had the effect of wiping everything out of the profile but the sync issue disappeared. I suppose I could have recycled the files and reintroduced them one by one to see which one was causing the issues and restoring part of my save data, but  I CBA as TBH the game has problems far deeper than that.

    I keep my setups in a speadsheet file, but also the engineer fast defaults seem fastest, so I've given up bothering to try setups. Don't use the career mode as I race online. The game is a joke, if you want one F1 game 2013 is best, 2011 would win if the handling on PC wasn't f**ked and GFWL actually worked.
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