Avenga76

I found that it is limited to the first 10 buttons on each controller. I am also having trouble getting it going with my Fanatec Clubsport wheel and DSD pedals. I think that with my pedals it will only work with combined axis or inverted axis because I get stuck in full thottle reverse. I haven't been able to get the wheel to respond at all. I can bind everything fine but it would work in game. Maybe add some toggles for non-inverted or combined axis.

Hahahahaha. It supports triple screen. This is so cool. I think they stole the cockpit view from Grid Autosport  :p They also have a few other views The menus are completely broken on triple screens (Any change on getting this fixed @justbiglee‌ ?) Next to try my wheel

Yes. I use an H-Pattern + clutch using heel toe shifting with my Fanatec Clubsport Shifter and DSD Wilwood pedals. Here is a video with a pedal camera and over the shoulder camera so you can see my pedals in action https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAR29NmnME0 For touring cars etc I use my DSD sequential shifter and for open wheelers I use my formula steering wheel with paddles. I try to use the same shifter as the real world car would have.

It should take any resolution that you can set your desktop to. I run Grid Autosport at 5898x1080

Another one of my videos. This time in the Formula C https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3axqNvgwcjw

Thanks. The clutch physics in Codemasters games is pretty terrible. You need to make sure the game itself has registered that you are in gear before lifting the clutch and if you mis-shift then you need to clutch in then take it out of gear, then put it back in to gear then clutch out, you can't just kick the clutch to get it back in to gear. Because there is a slight delay between when you put the car in gear and when the game registers that you have put the car in gear it is easy to be too quick on the clutch and then it will mis-shift. I found that I had to slow down my clutch to get it to work well. Also to note is that there is no progression in the clutch so it is either on or off so you can't ride the clutch or anything.  And this is true, I recently switched my shifters out and put my sequential into action because I was tired of getting thrown into neutral.  I usually use either my sequential shifter or my paddles.  For modern touring cars etc I use my DSD sequential shifter, for open wheelers I use the paddles on the Clubsport Formula rim and for classics I use my Clubsport H-Pattern shifter. It is good to have options so if I get too annoyed by the H-Pattern then I can use my DSD shifter, or the paddles or even switch my Clubsport shifter in to sequential mode (I don't like the sequential mode on the Clubsport shifter because the DSD is so much better) 

Another video with my rig. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAsWf5tk2Gk

Thanks. The clutch physics in Codemasters games is pretty terrible. You need to make sure the game itself has registered that you are in gear before lifting the clutch and if you mis-shift then you need to clutch in then take it out of gear, then put it back in to gear then clutch out, you can't just kick the clutch to get it back in to gear. Because there is a slight delay between when you put the car in gear and when the game registers that you have put the car in gear it is easy to be too quick on the clutch and then it will mis-shift. I found that I had to slow down my clutch to get it to work well. Also to note is that there is no progression in the clutch so it is either on or off so you can't ride the clutch or anything. 

For me immersion is everything in a racing sim. I use a Fanatec Clubsport wheel and Clubsport 7 speed H-pattern shifter, DSD wilwood pedals, squential shifter, hydralic handbrake and button boxes. Plus a whole bunch of gauges and dashs. I couldn't race without my wheel and motion simulator etc. You can see my rig in action in my videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAR29NmnME0

Hi guys.  I usually post a lot in the Dirt forum and I have been playing a lot of Grid lately so I just thought I would post a Grid Autosport video from my racing rig. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAR29NmnME0 For those of you how haven't seen my rig, it was recently featured on the codemasters blog. http://blog.codemasters.com/community/07/my-awesome-rig-avenga76/ I have just upgrade my pedals to a set of DSD Wilwood pedals so I am just getting used to them. In this video I have using my Clubsport H-pattern shifter and practicing my heel toe shifting. In my videos I use an over the shoulder camera and a pedal camera so you can see all my gauges and pedals in action. 

I am keen

go to advanced wheel settings and check your steering deadzone are set to 0%, then try playing around with the steering saturation and linearity. What degrees do you have your wheel set to? for Dirt 3 I use 400 but maybe go higher if you are finding it too twitchy.

Thanks @justbiglee and Codemasters for featuring my rig. Thanks @gfRally I love the look of the old 70's rally cars so I wanted to capture that spirit in my Avenger. It is a pretty head turning car in real life, I always get people coming up to me and asking me about it. I have even had a few people leaning out the window of their car taking photos of it on the motorway. My next V8 Avenger project is going to be done in a Group B/DRM style. Something like an Audi Quattro S1 or a Capri Turbo. I have been busy upgrading my rig and playing some Grid Autosport. This is my latest upgrade. A set of DSD Wilwood pedals. I tried them out in Grid last night and they are so much better than my old Fanatec Clubsport pedals. They are super heavy but they have a great feel to them. Instead of just using my ankle to brake, now I need to use my whole leg then use the ankle to make fine adjustments. It really helps when you are following someone into a corner, you can really modulate the pressure to match their speed. I am loving the new zoomed in cockpit, it is pretty much perfect FOV for me rig and TrackIR works awesomely. I have also been playing around with the "Second Screen" option in Grid. In other rig related news. I have started designing stage 2 of my motion simulator.

You won't need to use the codemaster proxy. Sim Commander will overwrite the config file when you launch the game so you need to use their UDP forwarder. In Sim Commander, set the UDP forward port to 30500 Then start the renamed cmd.exe, leave it running in the background. FanaLEDs should now say F1 2013 is running. Then set up the profile in FanaLEDs like you normally would. Then launch the game using Sim Commander and it should work.

I am glad you kept the Brazilian stock cars. They are a fun class to drive. I would much rather have a fictional car than none at all.

Yup. You need to do the exe spoof or else FanaLEDs won't activate. FanaLEDs monitors for executable names and sees a match launch then it will active. It won't break any wheels that don't have LEDs. Maybe they figured that everyone uses FanaLEDs now. 1. I just got a dos app, in my case I used cmd.exe, made a copy of it, renamed it to F1_2013.exe and left it running in the background. FanaLEDs is just matching the names of executables so if it sees a executable named the same as on of the sims it supports then it will activate and start listening. Just make sure you make a copy of the executable, don't rename the original file. 2. Basically yes. Mine is a bit more complicated because I use Simvibe, FanaLEDs and my Symprojects gauges. so I use the UDP forwarder in Simvibe to forward to a UDP proxy which then forwards it to my gauges and FanaLEDs Thx I already got 1.  covered by renaming fraps to F1_2013.exe, but cmd.exe is much better I still have a question about nr 2.  which numbers do i use in the simvibe forwarder? Is it 127.0.0.1 or 10001? Tried both but could not get it working ???? Is there also a specific setting in fanaleds? In Simvibe you want to use the port that FanaLEDs is set to. Default is 30500. you can change this in the OutSim field in FanaLEDs 

It won't break any wheels that don't have LEDs. Maybe they figured that everyone uses FanaLEDs now. 1. I just got a dos app, in my case I used cmd.exe, made a copy of it, renamed it to F1_2013.exe and left it running in the background. FanaLEDs is just matching the names of executables so if it sees a executable named the same as on of the sims it supports then it will activate and start listening. Just make sure you make a copy of the executable, don't rename the original file. 2. Basically yes. Mine is a bit more complicated because I use Simvibe, FanaLEDs and my Symprojects gauges. so I use the UDP forwarder in Simvibe to forward to a UDP proxy which then forwards it to my gauges and FanaLEDs

That is controlled in the hardware config file. It probably just isn't turned on by default. and this line to  C:\Users\username\Documents\My Games\GRID Autosport\hardwaresettings\hardware_settings_config.xml <led_display nativeSupport="true" fanatecNativeSupport="true" /> If you are using FanaLEDs remember to set it back to false by adding this line or they will conflict with each other  <led_display nativeSupport="false" fanatecNativeSupport="false" />

I have been talking with the guys over at FanaLEDs. They didn't change anything in the EGO engine. The FanaLEDs guys just need to update their program to activate off the Grid executable. I have given them all the details they need to add support for it and they are adding it in to there next update. I have got it going on my rig by tricking FanaLEDs in to thinking F1 2013. I also have it going with my motion simulator using the same method. Here is my post over on the FanaLEDS forum explaining how I got it running http://fanaleds.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=502 Here is a shot of FanaLEDs running on my rig.

Yeah the AI does brake unnecessarily and are pretty slow around corners. I just factor that in to my driving style and either late brake and take them around the outside or hang back and get them on the inside on the way out of the corner. I used to do real world racing in a classic race series. I used to race a Hillman Avenger so I know all the passing rules but that is on corner entry more than corner exit. If someone was beside me at corner entry and they were pushing me through the corner then that is fine to go two wide but I would not like it if someone tried to sneak up on the outside on corner exit when they were that far back. At that stage I would have already lined my car up with the corner exit and there is nothing I can do to change my line if you decide to get in my way. Barging up the outside on a corner is probably the most dangerous place to be while overtaking, that is why most drivers block to the inside forcing the other driver to take the outside. IRL most of my passes were inside passes because it is a lot safer than outside passes. Draft down the straight, slingshot past them on the inside and late brake and if you get track position before the corner then you force them to take an outside line, if you can't get track position then you drop in behind them and try to get the jump in them on the way out. I use a TrackIR head tracking camera so I can turn my head and see if I have track position. games like iracing have a spotter which would be really handy for stuff like this because they will tell you that their is a car left and to hold your line. I do agree that they are too planted when they hit you but they are not impossible to avoid if you keep an eye on them. It would help if they added working mirrors, even just a virtual mirror like in iracing. It is hard to see if they are challenging for a corner so it is too easy to turn in on them, but at the same time they should yield to you because you have track position and you are holding your racing line. I agree that they are aggressive and it would be nice if they did change their driving lines if you had clear track position.

I had it happen once after I finished a season and was heading back to the menu.

I had no problems with that challenge, I got platinum on my first try. First corners are always tricky you do need to brake early with that many cars coming in to the first corner. After you get through the first corner I found they will block on the inside so you are best to overtake on the outside of the corner then drop in behind the next car and over take them on the inside down the straight. The first crash you just cut inside when there was another car right beside you without even checking if anyone was there. He had the inside line, you cut in to him. The 2nd crash you had plenty of room outside but you came in way to hot and pulled inside straight in to the back of him, then put yourself on the outside of the next car on exit, right in his racing line, he had no chance of missing you because you cut him off. third crash you didn't brake for turn 1. Look at any F1 race and you will see how slow turn 1 is. You can't just take it at full speed and expect everyone to jump out of your way. Also look at how many turn 1 crashes there are in F1 or any race, it is the most dangerous time in the race and you need to be aware of everyone around you. In a lot of this crashes you were charging up the outside then getting in their way on exit. They had already committed to a racing line that was going to take them right up against the wall so if you put yourself between them and the wall then of cause you are going to get squeezed. The better thing to do is to drop in behind them and get them on the straight, you can't just barge in and expect to go two wide on the exit of the corner when they have already committed to their line. In racing the defending driver is perfectly allowed to hold his racing line and it is the overtaking drivers responsibility to overtake cleanly. In that video I see them blocking inside and forcing you to go outside which is the right move to do and you are cutting in to their line on exit. I'm sorry but in that video I see more bad driving than bad AI. No offence. Just learn not to dive bomb and you will be right, racing is about patience and overtaking cleanly, not trying to overtake 3 or 4 cars in a single turn. This is why you don't see that many overtakes in real world racing, you will see them chase down the car in front for ages, slowly getting closer then picking your moment to make a safe overtake. If everyone drive bombed in to every corner then nobody would finish the race.

So I can safely assume you don't go for racing games in a big way.:D Just kidding, it looks expensive. Thanks Yeah Berney got it done quickly. I got my Simvibe and GS-4 going on day 1 and I was sharing my testing results with Berney. I have also shared my testing results with both Symporjects and FanaLED. They are both adding it to their software soon. I have a manual work around which lets me run my Symprojects gauges and FanaLEDs using the F1 2013 plugin. Yes, that is correct, you can't move the back of the GS-4 seat. How about doing like a hinged base with a quick release at the back. So that way you could just flip a switch at the back and tilt the whole base forward. It really is worth getting if you are in to immersion. It has got me hooked in to motion now. I am going to start designing and building my 2 DOF system soon.

Yup. I have the GS-4 and Simvibe running on day 1 using the F1 2013 plugin. The official Grid Auto Sport plugin is out now so I have switched to that. It works well, not as many effects as rFactor or iracing but it has all the standard codemasters effects. I am slowly replacing all my Fanatec stuff (I know, they are only like 6 months old). I have some DSD Wilwood pedals on their way and then I am waiting to get the Simxperience Accuforce wheel when it comes out. I don't think the GS-4 seat takes up much more room that a standard seat. it is well worth it, once you get it tuned in then the effects are unreal. I am adding a DIY 2 DOF motion setup to my rig so with 2 DOF motion + GS-4 + Simvibe it is going to be pretty awesome.

Funny you mentioned the space issue. :) I always thought i didn't have space, but i found a way. It's a temporary setup, which takes me about 10 minutes to setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mxw7luCmN_I That is awesome. I have my rig on furniture sliders so I can convert from office to racing in about 5 minutes. I also have an 8 Butt kicker Sim Vibe setup and a GS-4 motion seat. This is another view of my rig. You can see the sliders and transducers.