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I've got three questions guys. I just got pedals with the clutch and wanted to use them with a shifter in Dirt Rally and Dirt 4. Being used to driving with two pedals (left foot braking), I find it really difficult to adjust to driving with a clutch and manual H gearbox. What's more effective, driving like in the real car (right foot for throttle and brake, left for clutch), or keeping your right foot on the throttle and having left foot operate brake and clutch? How did real rally drivers drive?
I started with just driving like my real car (left foot clutch, right foot for accelerator and brake) and then slowly learning left foot brake, foot switching and heel-toe, can find various footages to demonstrate it on Youtube.
Also, to keep things realistic, I assume H gear pattern and clutch should be used with historic cars, because modern cars have sequential gearbox and clutch is just used for the start. Am I right? Could anyone tell me roughly what combinations of pedals/gearboxes did different groups have? 
wherever possible I try to match the setting to what fits the car, all group B cars, 60's, 70's, H1, H2, H3 are manual H pattern, Group A is H pattern except for the Lancer evo, also ford Cosworth is a 7 speed and I only have a 6 speed H shifter so sometimes I have to drive that on sequential mode. up to 2000cc and 2000's cars in Dirt Rally and Dirt 4 are all sequential I think, NR4's/R4's are manual H-pattern. I'm less familiar with the Rallycross cars.
And the last question (maybe a little dumb), do rally drivers use a handbrake or a clutch nowadays on the start line to rev the engine before the green light? 
I think in 2000's era sequentials they used the clutch and handbrake to start(was described by colin mcrae in his Focus), not sure how the most modern WRC cars do it but I always use the clutch and handbraking in whatever car.
Colin mcrae focus:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1_u3-eyXmU&

my own gameplay in RS200 with pedalcam:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaPWfox0KmU

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Thanks for the answers guys, very helpful posts! Damn, I didn't even know you should use the clutch pedal when applying handbrake on the hairpins.  :o  Heel and toe is also new for me, it looks crazy. Time to practice my driving technique....

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Thanks for the answers guys, very helpful posts! Damn, I didn't even know you should use the clutch pedal when applying handbrake on the hairpins.  :o  Heel and toe is also new for me, it looks crazy. Time to practice my driving technique....
Welcome to Rally ;) Sometimes you might want to use the clutch in thight corners even without the use of the handbrake, it's a technique called "clutch kicking" and it helps reduce the understeer in thight corners. Heel and toe instead is very useful with manual cars to have smooth gear changes in order not to unsettle the car during high braking. With the sequentials this function is automatically applied by the electronics
Here you can see how with a modern sequential car (the 2003 Subaru Impreza WRC) the clutch is used only at the start:

https://youtu.be/LGk1p3-3kgY

Here instead you can see how Walter Röhrl handled his manual Audi Sport quattro back in 1985:

https://youtu.be/yyVHj3sHVHQ

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One more question guys. Do you happen to know what steering lock do WRC drivers use in 2017 season? I'm used to 540 degrees, but I see that in WRC7 the default lock is set to 630, which made me wonder. Or does it depend on the driver/ manufacturer?

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Reviving the thread for new forum

 

Edited by SkyRex

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Why was the Thread unpinned? It was pinned in the old forums

I updated the original Post and intergated:

 

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@SkyRex Nice guide :classic_happy:

 

I've got a beginners guide coming tomorrow, along with the controller guide I posted last week.

 

Will drop both in here tomorrow.

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4 hours ago, PJTierney said:

@SkyRex Nice guide :classic_happy:

 

I've got a beginners guide coming tomorrow, along with the controller guide I posted last week.

 

Will drop both in here tomorrow.

Thanks so much. I am very interested in this. Keep up the good work!

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Got 2 videos here to help people who are just starting out. Hope they're useful :classic_happy:
 
 
 
 
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7 hours ago, PJTierney said:
Got 2 videos here to help people who are just starting out. Hope they're useful :classic_happy:
 

@ 0:22 Did you use the handbrake for that or did it start to slide because of hard controller input? Looks kind of unintentional?

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12 hours ago, SkyRex said:

@ 0:22 Did you use the handbrake for that or did it start to slide because of hard controller input? Looks kind of unintentional?

0.22 was fully intentional. Hard controller input + oversteer setup :classic_cool:

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How do you guys deal with handbrake mapping when you only have buttons on the wheel available (no shifter) and the game won't allow keyboard keys to be mapped, when steering wheel is plugged in? I find it very difficult to locate and press the button, that I assigned handbrake to (even though it is the closest one to my thumb), but while turning, with high degrees of rotation, sometimes I just cannot locate it in time.

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3 hours ago, Pistro said:

How do you guys deal with handbrake mapping when you only have buttons on the wheel available (no shifter) and the game won't allow keyboard keys to be mapped, when steering wheel is plugged in? I find it very difficult to locate and press the button, that I assigned handbrake to (even though it is the closest one to my thumb), but while turning, with high degrees of rotation, sometimes I just cannot locate it in time.

Before I got my handbrake,

I used the left shift-paddle on the wheel as the handbrake. Works really well in corners as you can easier find it intuitively even when the wheel is turned.

For shifting I used: Right paddle = upshift. Button on front, reachable with right thumb= downshift.

Maybe give it a try

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Posted (edited)

Yeah it's a big problem that I've been trying to deal with for ages. On t150 I use the left paddle, but I change gears with h-shifter. If you have three pedals, you can use the clutch as a handbrake, but I find it really wierd and unrealistic. Another option is the custom handbrake (I made it like this, but it worked for a few weeks and then fell apart: https://imgur.com/a/5A2Gq

Alternatively, you can weld the cables if you have the skill, or use the stick on a gamepad to create something like this: https://imgur.com/a/Ow9gh

If you're on a PC, you can probably use any joystick as a handbrake.

The best solution I guess is just invest in a dedicated handbrake... Easy access to a handbrake is essential for effective rallying in modern cars.

 

Speaking of which, I have a question of my own regarding driving technique. I'm trying to play as realistically as possible and to my knowledge Lancia Stratos and group B cars did not use the handbrake on hairpins (I assume it was only used at the startline?). Do you think it's possible to be competitive eg in Argentina, without using the handbrake? If so, what's the technique? I'm assuming scandinavian flick + throttle oversteer/clutch kick is the key, but it's very difficult to pull it off on those narrow stages. Also, what gear should I be in during a hairpin turn, 1st or 2nd? Last question: are there any other cars in Dirt 2 apart from Stratos and group b that did not use handbrake for turning? (Maybe DS21, as there is no animation for using the handbrake?)

 

Edited by danielofifi
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Posted (edited)
On 4/22/2016 at 9:10 AM, BadD0g said:

If you're misjudging distances, you might want to lower your FOV.  It seems pretty high in the videos, I don't know what kind of monitor/TV setup you have but lowering it so the road on screen is closer to 1:1 scale might help you.

We can't do this on consoles!!

Anyone playing the console version: Tell Codies you want a FOV slider so you can simply reduce FOV

Above is exactly the problem with the default level. It is not natural and it distorts the road/objects to look smaller than they are.

Edit: holy smokes, just realised that was from 2016! I know a FoV slider for consoles was being requested back in DR1 days. It wasn't as necessary for DR1 on the consoles as that game had a more natural FOV. Since Dirt 4 and now DR2.0 they have made it more un-natural and more of a handicap, all for the sake of this 'sense of speed' thing. Which I don't get, as nothing is scarier than objects looming bigger in front of you, giving you the sensation of actually being inside the car.

Edited by Jake Cushing

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