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Been dropping this thread in more places so that Game Pass players can get up to speed 🙂 

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Well done DiRT fans, pinning this thread 🙂

Also added a few more videos and a quote to the OP 👍🏻

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Quote

Setup?
- We can give you advice on setting up your car and you find complete setups in the workshop. Be aware that setups are no 'Nitrous'! They highly depend on the driving style, which means what works for one can feel horrible to the next person.

I cant find the workshop on steam?

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32 minutes ago, somethingthing said:

I cant find the workshop on steam?

That’s from DiRT Rally, the thread’s been around since before the release of 2.0.

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Can someone tell me what Stability control setting is for?

Also Traction Control?

 

In full info Please I use no assist but what do know what these well do if turned on. 

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17 hours ago, MEEKY said:

Can someone tell me what Stability control setting is for?

Also Traction Control?

 

In full info Please I use no assist but what do know what these well do if turned on. 

Stability control helps keep cars stable during harsh and fast direction changes, in order to stop you spinning out (mostly). Traction control stops the driven wheels from spinning during harsh acceleration. Neither are really useful in a rally situation, as they reduce your ability to slide the cars when necessary. Such as on the hairpins on Greece, or the tighter turns on Wales.

As an example, having either/both of those assists turned on; would have reduced my ability to drive the Opel Kadett like this -
 


Sliding the car is often needed in rally, so having stability control turned on would reduce my options in regards to flicking the car into certain corners. As well as in using the handbrake effectivly. Using traction control would reduce my ability to use power induced oversteer in order to rotate and slide the car around certain corners.

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Posted (edited)

Lets see if i have got this right: In general you want a bit higher car than stock on most stages except Spain. On stages with lots of bumps like Argentina use a softer spring rate, slow rebound to the soft side because it needs to be able to move around all small bumps and fast rebound to stiffer so it wont move too much?

Stages like Poland thats mostly big jumps its best to use pretty high car, spring rate around the middle, slow rebound to the stiff side because it wont bounce on alot of bumps and fast rebound soft because it can take its time until next jump?

Im reading what i just wrote and it makes me more confused than when i started lol

But is this correct?

Edited by somethingthing

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Sounds about right, in places where you expect a lot of suspension travel (like jumps or bumps), you need to raise and soften the suspension so that it can soak those up.

You don't have to do that so much on tarmac as there isn't as much elevation change.

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Posted (edited)
5 minutes ago, somethingthing said:

Which tyres do you guys usually use and why?

Softs in time trials, because i want every ounce of time i can find. Mediums in career or freeplay championships, softs in a single stage daily, mediums in a multi stage/rally daily/weekly.

Basically anything that needs longevity and a little extra durability, mediums. Anything that is flat out single stage runs for fastest times I can possibly muster, softs.

Edited by Ialyrn
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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, somethingthing said:

Which tyres do you guys usually use and why?

Softs every single time. Only exception is Wet surface in Spain or Germany - there you want to take Wet tyres unless you have a single Wet/Sprint and at least one Dry/Long between you and the next service stop. Oh and Monte Carlo I prefer winter tyres cuz I'm bad, but I know the fastest drivers use Softs there and spend time learning how to handle on the snow with them.

Even there I would be tempted to take Wet just because I (personally) suck with soft in the rain, but the time you make up for it on the dry stage is worth it once you figure out how to handle rain. If it's 2x dry, 1x wet between service I will almost always take Softs.

For everything else just pick Softs. Soft tyres are >= Mediums until around stage 5/6, and really don't lose any noticeable advantage until around stage 8. So until you are in a custom championship/club where you are going for 6+ stages without a service stop, just take Softs.

Edited by Mike Dee
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Any general advice for camber and toe thats good all around? Im looking for things like "5 clicks negative camber, 2 clicks toe out"-kinda advice, very basic.

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On 10/10/2019 at 11:49 AM, somethingthing said:

Any general advice for camber and toe thats good all around? Im looking for things like "5 clicks negative camber, 2 clicks toe out"-kinda advice, very basic.

On most cars, the stock camber and toe seems to work well.

For camber, if there are many long sweeping turns, you want higher camber. If the track isn't set up that way, less camber.  Less camber will give you better grip for acceleration and stopping, but it will hurt your turn stability. 

RWD cars can benefit from a bit of inwards toe. The stock setup with clue you as to which ones.

A couple FWD cars benefit from outward toe on the front to help turn-in.

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On 10/6/2019 at 6:11 AM, SkyRex said:

 

Great video! I was surprised to see how soft you made the roll bars and will give that a try. 

My ride height was too high here for the longest time until I figured it really wasn't that bumpy. 

Greece is certainly unforgiving!

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So, I just finished the next Video, explaining some advanced driving techniques in detail, like Scandinavian flicks.

 

vlcsnap-2019-02-24-16h00m19s02422.png

Edited by SkyRex
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