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DiRT Rally PS4 update - patch for Thrustmaster peripheral hardware. Found a bug? Post it here!

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stevefoz said:
I just tried plugging my th8a shifter in direct and still nothing 
Did you assign your th8a gears 1-7 and reverse in the controller options ? 
I have 2 th8a's and everytime I boot the game I have to assign one shifter as handbrake (or e-brake)
and and the each gear 1-7 and reverse to my H- gate and then they work. 
Could do with a save profile for this, there may be one after the patch but I've not checked yet. 
Good luck.

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Broken Replays.  Since t300rs fix I cant see any of my replays after the race/stage is over?  Anyone else have this issue?  Broken Replays.

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Can still only pause the game and look around, can't drive, can't move t300rs on ps4. Latest patch has worked for me... What the hells going on?

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So they made a patch that made the wheels unusable then made a patch that rolled it back to just weak and barely usable and everybody is grateful?
I'm confused and shocked I've never seen anything quite like this and I've been gaming since Pong. Seriously this is crazy. It's as though they took away what little you had and then gave it back like it's gift and now everybody's grateful. Codemasters you are a diabolical genius.

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ccbird74 said:
Broken Replays.  Since t300rs fix I cant see any of my replays after the race/stage is over?  Anyone else have this issue?  Broken Replays.
Same here. I mentioned it in a previous post.  :-( 

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So after this "new" patch, T300 is working, but the FFB is still very very weak. The only way to have some good feel is to set the wheel on 540° (2 blinks on the wheel), but it is fay away from realism.
So finally for Thrustmaster's users, this game is not a sim, just an arcade game. So sad. 

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So after this "new" patch, T300 is working, but the FFB is still very very weak. The only way to have some good feel is to set the wheel on 540° (2 blinks on the wheel), but it is fay away from realism.
So finally for Thrustmaster's users, this game is not a sim, just an arcade game. So sad. 
540 degrees isn't a long way off, note how much he has to turn the wheel to get round the tight corner before the start line in this video?
https://youtu.be/DRg5Sp1iQMc

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So after this "new" patch, T300 is working, but the FFB is still very very weak. The only way to have some good feel is to set the wheel on 540° (2 blinks on the wheel), but it is fay away from realism.
So finally for Thrustmaster's users, this game is not a sim, just an arcade game. So sad. 
I have to agree with you Spacepadrille.
Rs300 Ffb is really weak( all ffbs setups turned to 150%), and the general driving feeling is similar to 90's Ridge racer-games.

hopefully Codemasters will investigate this Thrustmaster wheel problem more thoroughly.  :(

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Oh yes, got my ffb back on my T300RS with patch 1.3 which means I have my game back! Thanks Codemasters for such quick response. Keeping the faith!

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So after this "new" patch, T300 is working, but the FFB is still very very weak. The only way to have some good feel is to set the wheel on 540° (2 blinks on the wheel), but it is fay away from realism.
So finally for Thrustmaster's users, this game is not a sim, just an arcade game. So sad. 
540 angle it's perfect, but it's 3 blinks not 2. And You have to set it every time you start the game (default it is 1080)

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00155.pdf

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Sorry me bad. I was talking of 2 blinks, so it's 360°. With 3 blinks (540°) it's still to weak and loose in the center of the wheel. 

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Sorry me bad. I was talking of 2 blinks, so it's 360°. With 3 blinks (540°) it's still to weak and loose in the center of the wheel. 

Try my setup for T300 on PS4, works fine for me for now :)
especially for 2001 Impreza STI :)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y9j2sr82jlda53c/IMG_5904.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/81a6b3kki40i7u4/IMG_5903.JPG?dl=0

Soft Lock: ON

and i have updated T300 firmware to latest v.25 (updated on PC)
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/eng/index.php?pg=view_files&gid=1&fid=2&pid=402&cid=15



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Thanks a lot. I give it a try right now. I also re-installed the game to be sure nothing is messed with the patch 1.02, going directly from 1.00 to 1.03

Edit : your FFB is the one recommended by TMaster... I know it well. It's better than default. 

The best I found is coming from Drive39 (on the french forum). He uses 540° dor, 55% saturation on the wheel, and the following FFB (in french but easy to understand.

voila mon FFB optimisé ,
couple = 148
friction roue = 136
friction pneu =150
suspension= 122
patinage pneu = 108
moteur = 0 ( astuce pour optimisez toutes les autre valeur)
collision= 35 ( idem, )
braquage = 123
centrage dir = 100

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Thanks a lot. I give it a try right now. I also re-installed the game to be sure nothing is messed with the patch 1.02, going directly from 1.00 to 1.03
My DR, still shows v1.100 even after 1.03 patch, I don't know why!? :( 

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About weak ffb ; with new update its nearly perfect even monaco, rally cross and pikespeak. With 150 ffb setting its like a truck imposible to turn one finger i have driveclub project cars and f1 2015 this games ffb better then other games. I think Your problem is different maybe firemware

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Or calibrations i am not sure. Be sure your firemware is lastest and "maybe" in calibration device setting its stuck 96 make it 100 than 1080 degree than breake gas and clutch and confirm i use t300rs t3pa pro ps4 its perfect. Sorry for english

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What you are looking for is called clutch override in the pause control menu. That will allow clutch use with the paddles. Good luck 

Thank you.  That did work and allowed me to use the clutch, but at the same time you can still change gears without using the clutch, so it's not 100 percent, but better than not being able to use the clutch at all. 

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A flappy paddle gearbox doesn't need the clutch to change gear it  only needs it to get moving :smile:

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These are the settings that I found that got me really close on my Thrustmaster T300RS

DiRT RALLY on PlayStation 4 & Thrustmaster Wheel

OPTIONS / CONTROLS / ADVANCED WHEEL SETTINGS

To optimize the gameplay, we recommend you to:

Step 1) Access to CALIBRATE DEVICE and calibrate the steering wheel:

1080° for T150, T300 & T500 wheels

900° for TX Wheels

Step 2) Activate SOFT LOCK option.

Once the process is completed, the wheel Lock will be automatically adjusted to your cars.

Remark: To match the same ratio as the cockpit view go to OPTIONS / PREFENCES / COCKPIT DRIVER & WHEEL then select WHEEL ONLY

OPTIONS / CONTROLS / VIBRATION & FEEDBACK

To optimize the general feeling, you can try these settings:

VIBRATION & FEEDBACK = On

SELF ALIGNING TORQUE = 125 % for T150 - 95 % for T500 % - 125 % for T300 % - 77 % for TX

Self Aligning Torque is one of the most important setting, you can reduce this setting (not too much to keep related effects) for recent cars with small rotation angle or for dirt tracks. You can increase this setting (not too much to avoid wheel clipping) for old cars with big rotation angle or for ice tracks or snow tracks.

WHEEL FRICTION = 0% for T150 & T500 - 15 % for T300 & TX (keeping low the Wheel Friction setting is important to avoid not natural friction on the wheel)

TYRE FRICTION = 100% for T150 – 90% for T500 - 150 % for T300 & TX

SUSPENSION = 100% for T150 – 90% for T500 - 150 % for T300 & TX

TYRE SLIP = 100% for T150 – 90% for T500 - 150 % for T300 & TX

ENGINE = 100% for T150 – 90% for T500 - 150 % for T300 & TX

COLLISION = 125% for T150 – 100% for T500 - 150 % for T300 & TX

SOFT LOCK = 150 % for all wheels

STEERING CENTER FORCE = 100 % for all wheels

Wheel Options

Steering Deadzone: 0%

Steering Saturation: 100%

Steering Linearity: 0

Throttle Deadzone: 0%

Throttle Saturation: 100%

Brake Deadzone: 0%

Brake Saturation: 100%

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Pepe55 said:
You also need the shifter with USB end plugged into console, a second shifter plugged into back of wheel base and set wheel to PS-3 mode ( light should now be green not red ) so now second shifter can be used as park brake.
Cheers,
I may be going blind cos I can't find anywhere to plug the shifter into the wheelbase, can I have a clue please :smile:

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madwak said:
Pepe55 said:
You also need the shifter with USB end plugged into console, a second shifter plugged into back of wheel base and set wheel to PS-3 mode ( light should now be green not red ) so now second shifter can be used as park brake.
Cheers,
I may be going blind cos I can't find anywhere to plug the shifter into the wheelbase, can I have a clue please :smile:
Madwak what wheel are you using ? If it's the T500 it doesn't have an input for the th8a so you have to go direct in to the USB on the console.
if you have a T300 your th8a should have come with two cables one for USB and the other for the din connection on the back of your T300.

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Thanks a lot. I give it a try right now. I also re-installed the game to be sure nothing is messed with the patch 1.02, going directly from 1.00 to 1.03

Edit : your FFB is the one recommended by TMaster... I know it well. It's better than default. 

The best I found is coming from Drive39 (on the french forum). He uses 540° dor, 55% saturation on the wheel, and the following FFB (in french but easy to understand.

voila mon FFB optimisé ,
couple = 148
friction roue = 136
friction pneu =150
suspension= 122
patinage pneu = 108
moteur = 0 ( astuce pour optimisez toutes les autre valeur)
collision= 35 ( idem, )
braquage = 123
centrage dir 
@Spacepadrille.   I've just picked up another ps4 with the latest system software update and installed dirt. When I tried it with my T500 without doing any update to the game there is absolutely zero zilch nada force feedback with everything turned up to max - so it's safe to assume that the latest ps4 update changed something. 
After installing the 1.03 update and turning all the settings upto 150 there is PLENTY of ffb just need to fine tune it now.
I think where everybody is going wrong is the way they reduce the DOR, forget the soft lock and the advanced wheel settings the way to reduce DOR is with the wheel buttons. 

Make sure you have system software 3.55 installed on the PS4 first then start dirt and :-
Step 1 - calibrate your wheel as per the instructions displayed on screen ( not totally necessary as the thrustmaster wheels self calibrate as far as I can see)?
step 2 - use the buttons on your wheel to set the wheel to 540 - 3 flashes after releasing the buttons
step 3 - make sure that in advanced settings the saturation is set to 100 and linearity to 0 and dead zone to 0
step 4 - set all ffb settings to max
step 5 -  try the game and see what you think of the ffb - (should be noticeably strong and undrivable with 1 finger)?
step 6 - wipe the grin off your face
step 7 - tweek the ffb settings to get the feel as you like it.

give it a try and see if it's any better?

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stevefoz said:
madwak said:
Pepe55 said:
You also need the shifter with USB end plugged into console, a second shifter plugged into back of wheel base and set wheel to PS-3 mode ( light should now be green not red ) so now second shifter can be used as park brake.
Cheers,
I may be going blind cos I can't find anywhere to plug the shifter into the wheelbase, can I have a clue please :smile:
Madwak what wheel are you using ? If it's the T500 it doesn't have an input for the th8a so you have to go direct in to the USB on the console.
if you have a T300 your th8a should have come with two cables one for USB and the other for the din connection on the back of your T300.
I've got both the T500 and the T300 - got my shifter 2nd hand and it only has a usb cable. I know there's nowhere on the T500 to connect it but on the T300 the pedals are connected to a din type socket and I can't find another anywhere?
Update - just got down on my knees and put some better glasses on and I've now found the other socket - oops.

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I can't sign in to Racenet after last update, keep getting "the Racenet service not available" message. Also when I log in on the PC, stats are not showing ... is Racenet down? 

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