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Having a wheel issue? Look in here

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Well I'm back to racing now im fixed. 
If any one wants to friend me please do,  still new to this area. Would be appreciated. love racing car games.

Darust

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In reaction to Darust181; I will do so with my Thrustmaster T150. And indeed it is the best thing to do. Faster and more realistic response when you skip default and set up your controller yourself?
The default settings provided by Codemaster makes the steering quite loose and unbalanced. Also, in the flying lap, when you supposedly should get control over your steering wheel and pedals, it takes quite a while  efore that really happens. The steering wheel seems to 'search' for the output, lacking FFB while you are in control of the car. In Bahrain you get complete control, including FFB well after the last turn. This was much better in F1 2014.

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Ok so i came across some wierd bug whenever i try to play this game. I'm using a Thrustmaster TX base with the TM F1 wheel on PC (including fanatec v3 pedals) and my problem looks like this:
Whenever i drive the car my wheel will loose its function for a couple of seconds and i cant steer. The FFB also will fall on me and my car will just go straight. After a couple of seconds the steering will return and i can control my car again. This makes this game almost impossible to play at the moment because this problem will hit me at some point in basically any session.
It sure does have nothing to do with the base itself because whenever i switch to iracing or AC after getting really frustrated with this game because of this problem my whole setup works just fine. Maybe someone of you had the same problem? I hope you can help me because this whole issue really leaves no point for me in playing this game. There is no way to enjoy a racing game without having the controll of your car.

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Hi All,

I'm using a Microsoft Sidewinder Joystick and when I first loaded the game I can configure custom controls with no problems but if I want to make any further changes I am unable to do so. Also when ingame where you see the "button" assigned icon against activate drs and other ingame hud elements it just says "error" instead of the button assigned...

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AngBrown said:
I'm having issues with two Thrustmaster wheels. The T300 integral and the TMX. When I'm driving sometimes the wheel stops sending a signal to the game for a very short time. It's hard to explain, but sometimes I try to shift up or down and it won't register, and sometimes I brake and the game brakes a fraction of a second later then I did. It's really frustrating and hard to drive consistently this way. Does anyone else have similar issues?
Yes that happens to me too. The steering lags as well. Every lap, like 3 or 4 times, for a split second the steering wheel doesn't react to any movement. I turn the wheel, then nothing happens. Then after .5 seconds or so, the wheel turns, force feedback kicks in and I lose control of the car. I have the shift problem as well, but haven't noticed any problem with the breaking. I am still getting used to the handling model though, so I might not have noticed it.

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Pegamixel said:
Ok so i came across some wierd bug whenever i try to play this game. I'm using a Thrustmaster TX base with the TM F1 wheel on PC (including fanatec v3 pedals) and my problem looks like this:
Whenever i drive the car my wheel will loose its function for a couple of seconds and i cant steer. The FFB also will fall on me and my car will just go straight. After a couple of seconds the steering will return and i can control my car again. This makes this game almost impossible to play at the moment because this problem will hit me at some point in basically any session.
It sure does have nothing to do with the base itself because whenever i switch to iracing or AC after getting really frustrated with this game because of this problem my whole setup works just fine. Maybe someone of you had the same problem? I hope you can help me because this whole issue really leaves no point for me in playing this game. There is no way to enjoy a racing game without having the controll of your car.
Same here with a T500 F1 Integrale. Unplayable in this state. :(

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Is it possible with the T300RS with Ferrari F1 Wheel (PS4) use different functions on the two d-pads and the thumbwheels (red arrows)?

At the moment the D-pads directions are the same if you configure them through the settings menu.

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AngBrown said:
I'm having issues with two Thrustmaster wheels. The T300 integral and the TMX. When I'm driving sometimes the wheel stops sending a signal to the game for a very short time. It's hard to explain, but sometimes I try to shift up or down and it won't register, and sometimes I brake and the game brakes a fraction of a second later then I did. It's really frustrating and hard to drive consistently this way. Does anyone else have similar issues?
Yes that happens to me too. The steering lags as well. Every lap, like 3 or 4 times, for a split second the steering wheel doesn't react to any movement. I turn the wheel, then nothing happens. Then after .5 seconds or so, the wheel turns, force feedback kicks in and I lose control of the car. I have the shift problem as well, but haven't noticed any problem with the breaking. I am still getting used to the handling model though, so I might not have noticed it.
Same problem here.Windows 10 x64  Logitech G27,up shift and down shift many times are not recognized by the game

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Anyone know if F1 2016 support wheel Thundermaster T300RS for version PC?
Yes, works brilliantly.

I have T300 Ferrari GTE.

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@jennyannem or @Hoo 

1.) On PC with the Thrustmaster T300, T3PA Pedals and F1 Ferrar Addon, it's again almost impossible to map the brake to the clutch pedal. I use this way of braking since F1 2013 and I'm not the only one, whereas I have you also told you about the issues on F1 2015, where it worked only with inverted pedals (pressing F2 ingame on control settings menu). Well now it's not about reverting, because that isn't necessary anymore, but when assigning the brake to the clutch pedal, it's recognized like a normal button, not an axis, which means that you theoretically brake like on a keyboard or controller button (not L2/R2). Could this please be fixed? On PS4 I have absolute no problem regarding this.

2.) When comparing the PS4 with PC version, running the same wheel, settings and setup, I must say that on PC you have absolutely no effects/vibration on straights. Let's take for example Baku - start/finish straight with DRS. Here on PS4 the wheel slightly vibrates due to the road and their signs on the streets, but on PC nothing like this happens. I've mentioned the wheel above and as for ingame FFB settings, I've used 90/15/90, but it's not about that, as on PS4 with the same settings it's totally different. Just hook up this wheel with regular settings on both platforms and see the complete differences.

3.) The same also applies to the wheel weight. On PC through corners the wheel weight still stays there, meaning it puts up resistance, but on PS4 you simple loose all the weight and the wheel feels loose. Even if crank up everything to 100/100/100 it's the same issue.

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codies,

My issue is this, when I press the square button on my T300rs (ps4) when the enginner says we have an alternative strategy its not giving me the opportunity to select / review, virtually as soon as I press square the engineer accepts the command?

Anyone else having this? its not a problem on pad or people I know with a T150.

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I have a G27 which also isn't working. I've tried all the ideas on here without any change, the game seems to be detecting the wheel as a Logitech Formula Force although the computer and the Logitech profiler both say it's a G27. When I go to track in game both the throttle and brake are half on, if I press the throttle they both go fully on and if I press the brake they both go fully off, so basically whatever happens I come to a complete stop and get disqualified, this is the sum total of my F1 2016 experience so far. 

I've tried the fixes on here and it is the same with all of them, I've tried with combined pedals and without, in the profiler they are working fine but then in game still it's a Formula Force wheel, I've tried restarting the game and the computer numerous times, any ideas?

For all of you with this same issue, it's because W10 updates the driver and the profiler doesn't identify the wheel correctly.


Unplug the wheel. Uninstall the profiler. Install the older profiler lgs510.exe. Connect your wheel, let it detect. Uninstall the profiler, it never worked with F1 2015 properly anyway. Calibrate your controller in the Windows Control Panel and then start the game. Pick the G27 as the controller and map your buttons. It will be fine.

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SaXXon76 said:
Not my video, but it shows exactly my problem with my wheel "skipping" no problems in other games.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pKNw007nWM
i have this exact problem, while its skippig the wheel wont send any input whatsoever, ffb turns off in those skips.

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neruu009 said:
SaXXon76 said:
Not my video, but it shows exactly my problem with my wheel "skipping" no problems in other games.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pKNw007nWM
i have this exact problem, while its skippig the wheel wont send any input whatsoever, ffb turns off in those skips.
im gonna quote myself to say that DELETING the drivers via device manager, plugging the wheel in other usb port and then using the "scan new hardware" option and letting the device manager install them fixed the problem.
my pedals where inverted in game but i just remapped them.
now its working flawless :)

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I have tried changing every setting for my Thrustmaster Ferrari GT Experience and still have 50% throttle all of the time. This is a joke, If you state you SUPPORT a sterring wheel I expect it to work out of the box, If you HAVENT TESTED IT!!!! don't say you support it.

You have taken my money I expect a fix

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Quite a few of us are experiencing shifting issues with the CSR Elite...

Since the patch of August 24, we've noticed a sluggish gear change using the CSR Elite... often the up/down shift appears to not register all of the gear changes despite the fact that the lever has been pressed. Running driver 2.26 (BETA) and Firmware 757.

Was fine over the weekend after release, but not since the August 24 update... Drivers have been uninstalled and reinstalled by the way.

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neruu009 said:
neruu009 said:
SaXXon76 said:
Not my video, but it shows exactly my problem with my wheel "skipping" no problems in other games.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pKNw007nWM
i have this exact problem, while its skippig the wheel wont send any input whatsoever, ffb turns off in those skips.
im gonna quote myself to say that DELETING the drivers via device manager, plugging the wheel in other usb port and then using the "scan new hardware" option and letting the device manager install them fixed the problem.
my pedals where inverted in game but i just remapped them.
now its working flawless :)
nvm, after a reboot problem's back

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After testing a lot, I found out, that disconnecting ALL other USB Controllers (Pads, Shifter, HOTAS, Shiftlightindicator...) makes the wheel work fine. But thats very poor programming, if you ask me. I sholudn´t be forced to unplug all my other gamingdevices, to use my wheel properly. Hope this will get fixed.

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BadDanME said:
After testing a lot, I found out, that disconnecting ALL other USB Controllers (Pads, Shifter, HOTAS, Shiftlightindicator...) makes the wheel work fine. But thats very poor programming, if you ask me. I sholudn´t be forced to unplug all my other gamingdevices, to use my wheel properly. Hope this will get fixed.
i guess even a usb headset is part of that list

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BadDanME said:
After testing a lot, I found out, that disconnecting ALL other USB Controllers (Pads, Shifter, HOTAS, Shiftlightindicator...) makes the wheel work fine. But thats very poor programming, if you ask me. I sholudn´t be forced to unplug all my other gamingdevices, to use my wheel properly. Hope this will get fixed.
I'm having the same problem with the wheel / pedals seemingly going dead briefly, though it's still happening with just the wheel / pedals (Thrustmaster T300RS / pro pedals plugged into wheel base), keyboard and mouse USB devices connected.

I tried to do a race weekend and noticed that the frequency of the disconnects increased as the sessions progressed. There was just the odd missed gear shifting input in FP1, an occasional loss of steering / pedal input through FP2 and 3, a loss of input at least once per lap through Q and a loss of input 3 or 4 times per lap through the race.

There was no consistency as to where the input losses would occur - they appeared to be at random.

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BadDanME said:
After testing a lot, I found out, that disconnecting ALL other USB Controllers (Pads, Shifter, HOTAS, Shiftlightindicator...) makes the wheel work fine. But thats very poor programming, if you ask me. I sholudn´t be forced to unplug all my other gamingdevices, to use my wheel properly. Hope this will get fixed.
I'm having the same problem with the wheel / pedals seemingly going dead briefly, though it's still happening with just the wheel / pedals (Thrustmaster T300RS / pro pedals plugged into wheel base), keyboard and mouse USB devices connected.

I tried to do a race weekend and noticed that the frequency of the disconnects increased as the sessions progressed. There was just the odd missed gear shifting input in FP1, an occasional loss of steering / pedal input through FP2 and 3, a loss of input at least once per lap through Q and a loss of input 3 or 4 times per lap through the race.

There was no consistency as to where the input losses would occur - they appeared to be at random.
righ tnow ive managed to get the wheel working again (offline tested for now) where u have as u said only keyboard  mouse and wheel plugged in, no other programs running beside steam and f1 and also uninstalled geforce experience but this is silly to have to drive this way, cant even hang out in the ts server with your leaguemates nor record your race for making videos

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righ tnow ive managed to get the wheel working again (offline tested for now) where u have as u said only keyboard  mouse and wheel plugged in, no other programs running beside steam and f1 and also uninstalled geforce experience but this is silly to have to drive this way, cant even hang out in the ts server with your leaguemates nor record your race for making videos
I found that the problem doesn't manifest right away - it starts off fine and gets progressively worse as time passes or sessions progress.

My wheel has absolutely no problems with any of the other driving games / sims that I regularly play (Assetto Corsa, Dirt Rally, rFactor 2, Automobilista, iRacing and BeamNG Drive).

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@DGreco An issue I'm having with the T150 on PS4 is some very inconsistent feedback levels across different sessions. It's hard to explain just how and when it happens, the best example I can give was my career race at China, during the practice sessions FFB felt great and the wheel weight very good, but once I get to qualy and especially the race, it feels like 50% of the weight and feedback was gone, it all felt very floaty and too light, to the extent that I wasn't really enjoying the driving anymore. During most sessions I'd say the FFB and weight feels much nicer in practice than it does in the race somehow, it happens every time after playing for a while.

EDIT: I have to add I always started with these practice sessions first when I started up the game, so it could also be an issue of FFB just reducing somehow after playing for a while and/or doing something, like going to the garage, restart session, using a flashback etc? I'll try and see what happens if I go straight into a race the next time I start up the game.
I think i've the same issues. With my t150, on PS4 when I start a session,career or week end etc. I have feedback, vibration just for one lap and after nothing. Like you is floaty and light. I have to restart the PS to have it just for one lap again. I was thinking about a wheel problem but I dont know. I put the wheel on a PC for the last firmware but it's the same. 
Maybe I have to send back the wheel to take a t300 or a g29. It's my first wheel. ( sorry for my english by the way 

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