Jump to content Jump to content
Message added by CMPJTierney

 

Recommended Posts

On 9/13/2019 at 2:59 PM, pyide said:

Yeah, but having the option for those that want it would still better than not having the option at all. You could still choose to not ready up until you have the info you need... What he proposed is a manual ready up check to skip the forced times, not an automatic skip or a shortened timer. And I 100% agree with him there, the forced waits with no option to skip when it's just my friend and I doing some laps is pretty ridiculous.

I thought exactly the same after I'd posted my comment! As long as everyone has to press to proceed it's actually a good idea.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Social Media & Community Team
1 hour ago, Jake Cushing said:

PJ you're going to need an FoV adjustment for that rig, or it just... won't... feel... right

Just sayin' 🙂 

I got lots of things to learn with all this 🙂 

 

44 minutes ago, J89 said:

30fps replays are ****!

60fps for life 😉 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Social Media & Community Team
52 minutes ago, kellemann said:

And are you playing rally on that rim? Works well?

I'll know once I start 😉

From the bit of practice I've had on the work machines I seem to prefer a short degree of rotation (270), but ultimately I plan on playing more than just DiRT so a formula rim felt like the right call for me.

Link to post
Share on other sites

That's why F1 steering wheel is not good one for rally 😉
I admit doing rally with paddles fixed to steering wheel might be challenging.
But still, proper shifting is performed on straights rather than in the middle of a switch-back.

I saw similar argument to your one, raised in case of racing cars. For some reason it's not a problem for real drivers, often having L2L rotation of 520*

Edited by MaXyMsrpl
Link to post
Share on other sites
44 minutes ago, MaXyMsrpl said:

proper shifting is performed on straights rather than in the middle of a switch-back

I'd argue that is not the case, specifically in rally. You need those mid-corner shifts for weight transfers and a sequential setup is designed to make that even easier. If the paddles were fixed it'd be 100x easier to pull off because they're always in the same spot so no "getting lost" with them. It is doable with wheels where the paddles aren't fixed, plenty of people run it at 540° and do just fine, but for max performance you either need them fixed or on a low enough rotation as to not have to move your hands off the wheel. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Mike Dee said:

I'd argue that is not the case, specifically in rally. You need those mid-corner shifts for weight transfers and a sequential setup is designed to make that even easier. If the paddles were fixed it'd be 100x easier to pull off because they're always in the same spot so no "getting lost" with them. It is doable with wheels where the paddles aren't fixed, plenty of people run it at 540° and do just fine, but for max performance you either need them fixed or on a low enough rotation as to not have to move your hands off the wheel. 

I've aquired a driving style which very rarely lets me "getting lost" where the paddles are, even with largen real DoR.
What I do is, whenever I turn, the left hand doesn't leave its spot, more specifically the thumb of the left hand doesnt leave its spot on the wheel. The other hand grabs around (and shifts and handbrakes). The left always stays with the rotation until it is back straight.
This way your head intuitively learns where the paddles must be in relation to your hand position. I sometimes shift in the middle of a hairpin, with the paddles being completely flipped in position. But I have to barely think about it. My head just feels like "Oh my hand is over to right now, so for downshift I have to pull the paddle on the right" Or more accurately "For downshift I pull paddle at the location of my left hands position."

(Sometimes it''s also the right hand moving with the wheel. Point is, I always have one of my hands at the neutral 9-3 points of the wheel to intuitively know how it stands, without looking at it.)

Since I happen to have a channel, I can even show some moving pictures of what im talkin bout:

 

Edited by SkyRex
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Mike Dee said:

I'd argue that is not the case, specifically in rally. You need those mid-corner shifts for weight transfers and a sequential setup is designed to make that even easier. If the paddles were fixed it'd be 100x easier to pull off because they're always in the same spot so no "getting lost" with them. It is doable with wheels where the paddles aren't fixed, plenty of people run it at 540° and do just fine, but for max performance you either need them fixed or on a low enough rotation as to not have to move your hands off the wheel. 

The solution is simple. Buy a shifter. Flappy paddles suck anyways. He's got a full rig.

Going to suck playing anything else with an F1 wheel though. Especially if he ever wants to try drifting.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm working on a Fulvia skin and can't get the windows file ful_glass_d.dds saved in a correct way.

I use Paint.NET and save as BC3 (sRGB DX 10+), change ext. from .dds2 to .dds but the window is not transparent.

2nd question, how to make the black hood matte?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, JZStudios said:

The solution is simple. Buy a shifter. Flappy paddles suck anyways. He's got a full rig.

Going to suck playing anything else with an F1 wheel though. Especially if he ever wants to try drifting.

It's nice to have paddles as an option. I use both paddles and shifter. I did remove the paddles on my Sparco R383 rim though and use the static ones on the T500 wheelbase.

I also tried rallying with a F1 rim but it's not something I would recommend. I'd get an additional circular rim as well if I were PJ.

Edited by bogani
Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Mike Dee said:

plenty of people run it at 540° and do just fine, but for max performance you either need them fixed or on a low enough rotation as to not have to move your hands off the wheel. 

I'm running 540° and it happens here and there that I'm struggling to shift mid-corner, especially when exiting hairpins. I was thinking about switching to 360° but I'm not sure if it'd  be too twitchy. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...