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TT VIDEO UPLOAD CHALLENGE


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Goonertez said:
Vid of my 2.07.8 time, ill upload the ghost chase next for an informative view of things.
oh...theres a small break in the video at 16 seconds in of about 1 second.....i can only assume that this has been introduced by shadowplay.
The recording was split over two files and i guess it looses a bit of recording ability during the changeover dam p.o.s!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e647-7uqsXs

congrats gooner, looks like you got the flying lap in there...am i right in saying thats the quickest video upload? and if so are you picking the next combo as agreed earlier pole man gets to pick???
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Goonertez said:
for me it was:

-100
100
-100
20
100
100
Id say, what ever works for you, is the best setup. 

But I do have a question regarding this setup,  Ive tried it myself, it seems to work for certain cars better than others.  

(forget the gears for this question please)
But my question is :  Given that this setup only needs tuning stage 1,  Do you think CM would have programmed the cars to feel and respond as best they can, with only stage 1 tuning? 

I know people have faster times than I do with this setup, Im not disputing that the setup works,  It just seems a bit daft, to unlock stage 1 tuning 1st if thats going to give the best setup.   Why have stage 2 and 3?  

Take the diff for example,  set on -100 this is fully locked.  Meaning both drive wheels spin at the same rate, even if 1 wheel is in the air. 
Set on +100 means that both wheels can spin at different rates, and will never lock the diff, so effectively your driving a 1 wheel drive car.  

Have you ever stopped you car with 1 drive wheel on a icy patch, and wondered why the drive wheel on the tarmac isnt pulling your car off the small icy patch?

That wheel on the tarmac will do nothing, unless you have a car with a Limited slip diff, which would lock the diff and make the both wheels turn, and the car would just drive off.

Rear wheel drive cars with -100 Locked diff, are very skittish. IMO  
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Yeah, locking the diff in this game doesn't actually lock the diff. Sometimes, it seems like it has little to no effect, like on the 787B or the T1. Sometimes in the T1 I still have to adjust the car from launch.

Also, it would make sense for level one tuning options to not have as great an affect than level 2 or 3.
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Goonertez said:
for me it was:

-100
100
-100
20
100
100
Id say, what ever works for you, is the best setup. 

But I do have a question regarding this setup,  Ive tried it myself, it seems to work for certain cars better than others.  

(forget the gears for this question please)
But my question is :  Given that this setup only needs tuning stage 1,  Do you think CM would have programmed the cars to feel and respond as best they can, with only stage 1 tuning? 

I know people have faster times than I do with this setup, Im not disputing that the setup works,  It just seems a bit daft, to unlock stage 1 tuning 1st if thats going to give the best setup.   Why have stage 2 and 3?  

Take the diff for example,  set on -100 this is fully locked.  Meaning both drive wheels spin at the same rate, even if 1 wheel is in the air. 
Set on +100 means that both wheels can spin at different rates, and will never lock the diff, so effectively your driving a 1 wheel drive car.  

Have you ever stopped you car with 1 drive wheel on a icy patch, and wondered why the drive wheel on the tarmac isnt pulling your car off the small icy patch?

That wheel on the tarmac will do nothing, unless you have a car with a Limited slip diff, which would lock the diff and make the both wheels turn, and the car would just drive off.

Rear wheel drive cars with -100 Locked diff, are very skittish. IMO  
Then why dont upgrades work?
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