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G920 brake pedal deadzone (after mod)

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I removed the stopper from my G920 brake pedal, but now there is a huge deadzone at the end of the pedal travel, 20-30% of the total travel. This makes it very unrealistic and difficult in any trail brake scenario (just about every braking zone). I need to go from 100% to 65% to register just a tiny release in brake pressure. It is terrible.

Has anyone removed the stopper and found any way to adjust the brake pedal for the travel issue? Thanks. I'm thinking I could measure a solid object and put it in the travel shaft of the pedal (big pain), or somehow remap the brake pedal to be the clutch, and then mod the pedals further to switch the location of those two. This should be easily changed through software.

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raesu said:
I removed the stopper from my G920 brake pedal, but now there is a huge deadzone at the end of the pedal travel, 20-30% of the total travel. This makes it very unrealistic and difficult in any trail brake scenario (just about every braking zone). I need to go from 100% to 65% to register just a tiny release in brake pressure. It is terrible.

Has anyone removed the stopper and found any way to adjust the brake pedal for the travel issue? Thanks. I'm thinking I could measure a solid object and put it in the travel shaft of the pedal (big pain), or somehow remap the brake pedal to be the clutch, and then mod the pedals further to switch the location of those two. This should be easily changed through software.

Recalibrate the pedal in Windows Control Panel? Although if the actuator is designed to operate over a short range then it's probably impossible unless you swap the connections.

I also did what you are suggesting, I use the clutch pedal as the brake even though now my rig no longer has a central post. I'd moved the pedal plates to their extreme outer positions as well.

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Once the stopper is removed you'll need to recibrate through game and or software. I belive (on console) its accomplished by going into controller config where you can view inputs and depressing all your pedals completely. 

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Don't think I can fix with software... It's just not built top detect the full range. 

In game I remapped brake to the clutch pedal and I'm looking it. May swap the brake and clutch springs so it is stiffer.

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raesu said:
Don't think I can fix with software... It's just not built top detect the full range. 

In game I remapped brake to the clutch pedal and I'm looking it. May swap the brake and clutch springs so it is stiffer.
That's basically what I have with the (slightly) uprated GTEye spring.

Have you tried the saturation or linearity settings?

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G920 brake are terrible , i want to remove the block but i dont want to risk having problem like you. i have to hulk the brake pedal and my chair goes back everytime i brake zzz

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raesu said:
Don't think I can fix with software... It's just not built top detect the full range. 

In game I remapped brake to the clutch pedal and I'm looking it. May swap the brake and clutch springs so it is stiffer.
That's basically what I have with the (slightly) uprated GTEye spring.

Have you tried the saturation or linearity settings?
Yes I tried all those settings. Nothing changes the fact that 100% is registered with the pedal about 75% pressed.

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I did the same thing and I can tell you there's no way to get rid of that deadzone via software. I just started using the clutch as the brake in F1 games, the resistance of the clutch is enough for me.

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I did the same thing and I can tell you there's no way to get rid of that deadzone via software. I just started using the clutch as the brake in F1 games, the resistance of the clutch is enough for me.
so no point removing the block inside the brake pedal ?

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Arongy said:
I did the same thing and I can tell you there's no way to get rid of that deadzone via software. I just started using the clutch as the brake in F1 games, the resistance of the clutch is enough for me.
so no point removing the block inside the brake pedal ?
I didn't. But then I remapped the pedal like @Desmond0313

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I removed the block and get perfect range from 0-100% at max depression. If calibrating isnt changing then its either operator error or perhaps you have a faulty pedal. Theres nothing about the physical design of the pedal that prevents it from registering maximum detection range. Others, myself included have no issue. 

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daemun said:
I removed the block and get perfect range from 0-100% at max depression. If calibrating isnt changing then its either operator error or perhaps you have a faulty pedal. Theres nothing about the physical design of the pedal that prevents it from registering maximum detection range. Others, myself included have no issue. 
With the block in there there no way you can reach 100% travel on the pedal so Logitech shortened the effective range. Have you checked the travel in the customize settings screens? It does hit 100% at max depression, but also at 80% depression.

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I wonder if this might be a pedal board revision? Early ones have full range, newer have a reduced range?

Can't see it myself, the design is simplest with the full range then restricting it via the stopper and calibration being in-game or via software.

Physical travel is travel range. A pedal set up either way would register raw data which would then be calibrated to give progressive input.

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