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Drag Racing - Reaction Times and Tunning

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greetings!

I've been having some good fun with the new Drag Pack but I'm still struggling to get the best out of each car, especially at the start.

mostly by luck, I managed tog et some very good reaction times with some cars but I'm not 100% sure what line you cannot cross to be considered a false start.

also, how are you guys tunning your cars for the races?

cheers


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There's a nice write up over on the blog that goes into some advanced techniques for Drag Racing, may find it of some use :)

http://blog.codemasters.com/grid/10/grid-autosport-drag-racing/

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Loore said:
There's a nice write up over on the blog that goes into some advanced techniques for Drag Racing, may find it of some use :)

http://blog.codemasters.com/grid/10/grid-autosport-drag-racing/
thanks for that, @Loore, but I'm still a bit confused. False start happens is I cross the Traffic Lights BEFORE green shows? I wasn't sure if is about the lights or if there was a line drawn somewhere on the ground. :P

about tunning, yes, I'm going for Soft Suspension on the back but I couldn't really tell how much difference it makes, nor ride height. thoughts on that?

gear lenght, I usually go for +30

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The graphic on the left side of your screen actually represents your tire. And in Drag Racing it will go by the bottom of your tire and wheel. I am not sure how high it is from the ground.

 But you can roll all the way though the "staged" light as long as your tire is still not completely broken that line you are fine. That is called "deep staging" & the faster the car the easier it is to red light. "Deep" staging can give you a bit of head start and the head start is the length of the tire I have not figured out if the game adjusts from car to car with the tire length. Meaining that the Miglia tire length is much smaller than say the Veyron's. But, as far as if the game knows the difference I am not sure.

When you play the Drag Championships you will see the AI will go really far up the staging lights because they will turn off the Pre-Stage light. For the Drag Cars I usually "Shallow Stage" which means I only cross the beam with the 1st part of the line on the staging graphic. Because it takes a lot less time when you go, to trip the beam that I usually "Red Light" meaning that it shows I false start. So if it is a slower car I usually go past the middle of that light by just a little bit.

As far as tuning I have not 100% got that down yet. On the more powerful cars I try to use longer gears. To keep wheelspin down some. Also some downforce helps with the wheelspin. Usually the shorter the race the more downforce I use.

To get the Drag Cars to pull wheelies I lock the diff all the way raise the ride height all the way. Soften the rear springs all the way and stiffen the fronts all the way. Then put the downforce all the way up. Then I just nail the gas and hold on if you feather the throttle you can keep the car going for a bit before you hit the wall or pass the center line. I have almost made it all the way down the 1/4 mile with the fronts all the way up. 

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so my wheel has to be within the reach of the red line by the time the green light goes on? is that it?

I usually shallow stage all the time and works very well for me with pretty much ANY car. I get very good Reaction Times compared to the AI (haven't been able to play online yet) but often my race times are not as good as theirs. I still win though.

about my race times, I don't know if the problem is the car, the tunning or the driver :P
the Nissan Silvia seems to beat a RX7 at 1/4 Mile but I got destroyed by the time we got to the 1/2 mile mark :(

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First question yes, think of it like a rolling start. It is hard to see, but up in the top right corner there are #'s showing your reaction time. And the exit speed if you deep stage the speed is not much at all but, if you shallow stage the exit speed will be higher. Because your tire had a rolling start.

2nd ? It is usually how my races are won against the AI too. It seems like the AI's r/t's are slower but they make up for it by not having much (if any) wheelspin. 

3rd that goes down to when the car reaches it's power band meaning that the RX 7's power band comes in later because the rpm has to be higher for the engine to reach max horsepower. Also the RX7 in this game from the way it sounds has a Rotary Engine and those type of engines are a higher revving engine than a typical piston driven engine. Mazda has used Rotary's for quite a while in their RX cars. A couple of years ago though they stopped using the Rotary. 

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my best reaction 0.018sec (mainly on this win)
and setting ?
affect only gearbox & back suspension (-100 (principal on Funny car))

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3rd that goes down to when the car reaches it's power band meaning that the RX 7's power band comes in later because the rpm has to be higher for the engine to reach max horsepower. Also the RX7 in this game from the way it sounds has a Rotary Engine and those type of engines are a higher revving engine than a typical piston driven engine. Mazda has used Rotary's for quite a while in their RX cars. A couple of years ago though they stopped using the Rotary. 
this is GRID, not Gran Turismo. I don't think Rotary Engines are REALLY taken into consideration here. however, torque/RPM must be. by the way, RX7, MX5 and 787B all use Rotary Engines :)

in regards to wheel spin, I can control it well on Races but is harder when you are holding the e-break/clutch. I tend to panic a bit and go full throttle :neutral_face:

fanticUA said:
my best reaction 0.018sec (mainly on this win)
impressive O.O

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Loore said:
There's a nice write up over on the blog that goes into some advanced techniques for Drag Racing, may find it of some use :)

http://blog.codemasters.com/grid/10/grid-autosport-drag-racing/

Thank you for this link.  It helps a NOOB like me.

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Fastest (luckiest) RT I've gotten was .036. I'm not sure what I'm really doing tuning wise, but I do a locked diff, minimum ride height, and a soft rear, front is untouched.

When using the clutch, I can't figure out how to manage perfect shifts. If I stay on the gas, it's always late, and if I release it even briefly it's early. Any tips?

And the MX-5 doesn't have a rotary engine, unless it's been swapped into one. 

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@TUSMBOX I have a terrible time with catching those shifts too. Because once you hit the clutch the engine revs automatically & get redlined because it had no load on it. I think out of 50 runs I got like maybe 2 perfects by luck, pure luck.

No matter if it is a Rotary or rubber-band powered pickup truck. I have no idea what is going on.

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revesburger said:
this is GRID, not Gran Turismo. I don't think Rotary Engines are REALLY taken into consideration here. however, torque/RPM must be. by the way, RX7, MX5 and 787B all use Rotary Engines :)
Maybe not Gran Turismo, but I doubt they just use a linear torque/power 'curve', but an idividual for every car/engine. In the end they licensed these cars and I as manufacturer wouldn't be happy if they didn't depict my engine at least somewhat like the real one. So a small N/A engine will need revs to get on speed, while a turbo-engine doesn't that much.
B.t.w., the rotary engine ended its life because the RX7 and RX8, the only cars that still used it, ended their production-cycle. The MX5 always used a classic 4-cylinder petrol-engine. That car would never have been such a hit with a petrol-hungry rotary.

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