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Dirt rally totally transformed by this setting..

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Maybe this is only applicable to my setup but I doubt it.
I've been playing Dirt Rally with the default steering linearity settings of 0 for the past two years!

I use a G25, thought DR was ok but just not very realistic handling. Today I was experimenting and thought I'd try setting steering linearity to -10. I had to then increase the sensitivity by reducing steering saturation as the steering range had then became too large... but once that was done the game has suddenly come alive! 

Codies seem to have made a mistake in the steering linearity section by setting default as 0 and having -10 to +10 on the slider making people will naturally assume that -10 is non linear yet (in my case at least) it is now perfectly linear.


I now have far, far better precision, steering resolution, better FFB and the cars now handle exactly as they should. Slides are easily caught, held and you can showboat for fun now. It feels almost like a real rally sim now and the 205 T16 has gone from being a total animal that was difficult to drive to being the most fun car in the game. Cant believe it!

Try it, give some feedback and if it also works for you.. spread the word!

Enjoy!  :D
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Every Codemasters Southam has the same linearity, and as far as I have tested, 0 is the normal linearity. The F1 games don't have the same linearity setting due to being done by a different team.

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Yeah, 0 is the default, its only once you change to -10 that you realise that its wrong. It is for me anyway and there is no reason I can think of as why that should be. Have you tried it?





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sfcpaulo said:
Yeah, 0 is the default, its only once you change to -10 that you realise that its wrong. It is for me anyway and there is no reason I can think of as why that should be. Have you tried it?

Well it works fine at least in GRID: Autosport and DIRT 4, so I don't see why it wouldn't be the same in Dirt Rally. Of course there is a tiny chance something has gone badly wrong...

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 Grid Autosport works fine for me on default 0, I've just double checked... very weird. 

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UP100 same linéarity ? in dirt rally PS4 you want more linearity  you have to put in negative and Dirt 4 we must put in positive ,   i look real onboard( F1 and rally ) in 0 linearity  is the not real wheel  setup .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONxcwUoLzKE


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE7CNFsgtNM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sAbQ5wRr0o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-meibNQEBU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ParmMRS8qp0


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I guess you misunestanding what you have done.
 by setting linearity to -10 you slowed down initial reaction of steering wheel, getting more precission around center of its position

Similar result of easier controlled car you can get by tunning steering wheel in car setup.

btw nobody said that real cars have linear steering.

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Guest
holy damn, im on a Logitech DFGT (I think ffb is quiet similar) and your right, its just perfect ! how much saturation are you running ?

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Thanks for the tip! Most realistic steering from G25 ever - dropped saturation to 60 now winning stages at elite level after struggling through pro for three "seasons"

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On 1/20/2019 at 9:15 AM, MaXyMsrpl said:

I guess you misunestanding what you have done.
 by setting linearity to -10 you slowed down initial reaction of steering wheel, getting more precission around center of its position

Similar result of easier controlled car you can get by tunning steering wheel in car setup.

btw nobody said that real cars have linear steering.
 

You are right about center being more sensitive, but wrong insofar as saying the car is initially less sensitive. In fact, with negative linearity the car will react more quickly as soon as you turn the wheel left or right past the twelve o’clock position. I have mine at -3. Anything more negative and the car gets too twitchy will small inputs. When you adjust saturation on the other hand, all you are doing in essence is lowering DOR. Meaning that proportionately speaking less DOR will result in the wheels turning more. 

Direct copy off the CM Input Guide:

STEERING LINEARITY
Zero linearity makes steering directly proportional to your input, which can feel more consistent. High linearity can make your steering feel less sensitive for small inputs, but can feel inconsistent. Conversely, negative linearity (wheel input only) can make your steering feel more sensitive for small inputs. All settings give maximum steering angle at full input.

 

STEERING SATURATION
Sets the percentage of input that is required to achieve full input. A low percentage reduces the amount of input to reach 100% lock for your steering wheel.

 

Edited by Buckwilder

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Yep, upping the Saturation of steering, throttle and brake also work well. Linearity at -10 makes all the difference. Still having trouble between using Auto sens and Softlock vs 540 for modern cars. 

Fanatec CSW 2.5

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What kind of troubles do you have?

I use TX, 900degree, with default linearity/saturation settings and soft lock, having no problems at all. It's obvious that modern WRC cars have more sensible steering than older ones. It is how it is in real life. And I found it very natural and realistic. 

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17 minutes ago, MaXyMsrpl said:

What kind of troubles do you have?

I use TX, 900degree, with default linearity/saturation settings and soft lock, having no problems at all. It's obvious that modern WRC cars have more sensible steering than older ones. It is how it is in real life. And I found it very natural and realistic. 

Thank you. Trouble isnt really the right word, I guess. I just haven't found whether I like 540 on the wheel or just activating soft lock and leaving the wheel at Auto. On old cars and most RX, I use 900.  Basically, I don't have a lot of faith that softlock is accurate for all the cars.

I'll try what you're doing and set it to 900 with softlock. 

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make sure that virtual steering wheel reflects physical wheel rotation. it happened to me that calibration took not any effect. Probably because I accepted calibration process by pressing esc. So use enter to calibrate.

Anyway rotation of both wheels must match. checking at 90 and 180 degrees is enough. Once set it works for all cars which is very comfortable. and it is how it's expected to be.

 

Edited by MaXyMsrpl

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My driving has improved insanely since getting wheel settings where I like them (aka, ditching dodgy soft lock).

FFB feels way better too. Now using 40 saturation / 360 degrees range of motion. 0 linearity (Need to experiment more, but prefer things linear atm).

Way less fumbling of handbrake button (default B) and paddle gear changes when the wheel doesn't exceed 180 degrees left or right. Thumb doesn't get nearly ripped off as much either 😂

Edited by SquirrelEsquire

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