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In game set the steering saturation to 60. This essentially does the same thing as lowering the degrees of rotation to 540. Now you get more response from the steering with less input. 

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Soft lock just adds a spot somewhere in the wheel rotation that makes it very hard to rotate past. Giving the illusion that you have reached the wheels maximum rotation. Set that to 150 if you want. 

The saturation changes the degrees of rotation the same way changing the degrees of rotation in the wheels software would. So if you want 540 degrees of rotation you can leave the wheel at 900 in the software and change the game to 60 saturation. If you change the wheel to 540 in the software then leave the games saturation at 100.

Hopefully this makes sense. 

 

 

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Also if you calibrate the wheel in game to 900 it automatically resets the saturation back to 100. So you must calibrate it to 900 and then set the saturation to 60 after that.

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Brilliant, thanks very much for your help. I'll give this a try later

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Just looking at cats screenshot earlier in the thread, where is steering saturation? Is it on the other set of parameters and not the vibration/feedback page?

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Just achieved my first 8 points for finishing 10th in the 4th event at New England. Really chuffed, milestone.

Thank you for the tips and encouragement. I feel im getting somewhere now

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I'm still having issues with the wheel so maybe I'm not explaining the feeling properly.

Firstly I've 're calibrated wheel to 900 degrees and the steering saturation reset to 100. I changed this to 60 but can't really see a difference. I still have to cross arms in slow tight turns and just get in a mess.

Secondly, when I mention resistance from the wheel, I mean the wheel pulses and moves. So if I turn the wheel a bit and then try to hold it straight it slightly moves in the opposite direction. So sometimes fighting against it pulsing in the opposite direction.

I hope I'm explaining this properly, I fight the motor. It's not like a ships wheel where you can throw it one direction and watch it spin. If I did this it would stop due to the motor pulsing the opposite way.

When I watch you tube vids showing wheel movements mine isn't the same. Guys appear to be able to move very quickly any way and also one handed. I would struggle to do this.

It's frustrating that there is no description against all settings. Maybe I should dial each one down individually and check?

Anyway, other than this I'm certainly improving my overall driving thanks to your tips. If I could nail the slow corners I can really improve as I currently lose so much time crossing arms. I'm struggling to use a button handbrake due to too much going on and it all being frenetic but maybe this is just practice. I don't use this with my track racing so I'm used to my arms just routed to the wheel.

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If you want you can try turning down the saturation even more. Try it at different numbers. The lower you go the less steering wheel movement you need to turn the car. I used to play dirt rally 1 with it set to 45. But eventually I moved it up to 65 once I got better at the game.

 

Your other issue sounds like you don't like the strength of the wheel? If that's the case just turn things down until you like it. But it should be fighting you a little. It should be just strong enough so you can feel when you have grip and when you don't. The little twitches back and forth are from the ruts in the road I think. I feel them on my wheel but I don't think they feel good.

Edited by Rigle

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I have turned steering centre force off completely, its not really necessary and just clouds over the self-aligning torque.

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15 minutes ago, austinb said:

I have turned steering centre force off completely, its not really necessary and just clouds over the self-aligning torque.

As far as I know steering center force is something that centers the wheel at the start of a race. So you don't accidentally start with your wheels turned all the way left or right. It doesn't seem to be working at all in this game. But even if it was I don't think its something that affects the actual wheels feeling during a race. You can look at the descriptions in DR1 for the different ffb settings. I'm assuming they are the same in DR2 even though most of them are not working right now.

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Ok here's a thing.

I am making progress with this but I fancied a quick blast before going out but didn't get time to set my wheel up so played with pad. I played two stages and won them both with lots of time to spare.

I need to identify why I'm slower with the wheel. I do have the issues with slow corners as described but I also think I'm working the gears better with the pad (must be a concentration)

 

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10 minutes ago, DozUK said:

Ok here's a thing.

I am making progress with this but I fancied a quick blast before going out but didn't get time to set my wheel up so played with pad. I played two stages and won them both with lots of time to spare.

I need to identify why I'm slower with the wheel. I do have the issues with slow corners as described but I also think I'm working the gears better with the pad (must be a concentration)

 

I think you need to make use of the handbrake to rotate the car. Very important in Rally. 

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26 minutes ago, DozUK said:

Ok here's a thing.

I am making progress with this but I fancied a quick blast before going out but didn't get time to set my wheel up so played with pad. I played two stages and won them both with lots of time to spare.

I need to identify why I'm slower with the wheel. I do have the issues with slow corners as described but I also think I'm working the gears better with the pad (must be a concentration)

 

My first guess is that you are over steering the car when you use the wheel. And I don't mean rear wheel sliding out oversteer, I mean physically turning the wheel too much in both directions the entire time you drive. I notice it with my friends on my setup - they waste 5-10 seconds on some straights driving zigzags because they won't take the 0.5sec to slow down and straighten out the car. It'd be easier for us if we had two video to compare, but I would suggest first just focusing on driving very deliberately. Corner exits should be clean and consistent, focus on not twitching left-right-left before getting the car straight. It should be one fluid movement unwinding your drift into a straight exit line.

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If I was you I would just set 400 degrees in the logitech profiler and start from there, you don't need to mess around with saturation that way, you just leave it at 100. The feeling in the wheel you are talking about is the self aligning torque, so try setting that low, like 20 or something and see how it feels, then increase it if you need to. The other settings don't all seem to be working at the moment for everyone but here's what they do:

Self aligning torque is the feeling from the front wheels being inclined to turn a certain way depending on the forces acting on the car. 

Wheel friction is just static friction and imo is just a useless leftover from the initial Dirt Rally FFB model. 

Tyre Friction is friction you feel from the tyres scrubbing as you turn them, it's more dynamic than wheel friction, maybe somewhat useful. 

Suspension is vibration from the road surface but doesn't seem to be working right atm. Tyre slip used to work with wheels too, it would add some vibration when you lost traction but I don't think it does right now.

Collision is the force through the wheel when you crash into ****.

Soft Lock is an artificial bumper that limits how much you can turn the wheel depending on steering saturation. 

Steering center force is just used to auto-straighten the wheel at the start line, it doesn't do anything while driving. 

The real core of the FFB is the self-aligning torque so that's the setting you want to use to set the strength.

As for you being faster with a pad, you can go from lock to lock with the flick of a thumb so that will happen until you start to rely on feel to know what the car is doing. Once that's the case you will get much more tactile information through a wheel. 

Wall of text ends here. 

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Once again, thanks for your help and assistance. Thanks for the breakdown of the options too. It helps a lot.

 

Lots of testing for me to do but im really enjoying it

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Basically, on most wheels, you only want to care about the Self Aligning Torque figure.

Wheel friction should be low (like 5). Tyre and suspension basically off. Collision max of 50. Soft lock absolutely off. Steering Center Force off. 

 

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I played dirt rally 1 on about 300 degrees rotation on my G27, found this gave me enough rotation to be precise when I needed to be but also throw the car around realy quickly too. I think quite a few other drivers take this approach, pretty sure a few good drivers too, porkhammer for instance, is one who has rotation relatively low as well.

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Pork used to use 280, not sure what he's on these days. Really as long as you can still be precise you can go as low as you like and you'll benefit from quicker inputs but it starts to feel a bit too gamey for me when it gets too low. But hey, if that's your thing, whatever works.

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20 minutes ago, Rygar86 said:

I played dirt rally 1 on about 300 degrees rotation on my G27, found this gave me enough rotation to be precise when I needed to be but also throw the car around realy quickly too. I think quite a few other drivers take this approach, pretty sure a few good drivers too, porkhammer for instance, is one who has rotation relatively low as well.

I'm right there with you, but I run it a bit higher at 360° myself. Let's me keep track of the paddleshift easily, I can countersteer by reaction much easier, and still feel like I keep enough precision to not be hindered by it.

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