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DiRT Rally 2.0 Car Setups


2Technical
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52 minutes ago, 2Technical said:

hi, yes I have planned in the DLC locations for the car I done prior to them. Will be picking them up after Germany drops starting with the 2000cc and R5 cars. Yeah, my setups are obviously setup for my driving style using a wheel. So using a pad and having a different driving style will most likely incur some modification but im glad they have still help even if it is just a starting platform.

hello

i'm usually  doing the setups myself, but can i ask you for a generic good  gravel setup for the integrale?  to go really  fast and without too much understeer?

 

it's the only car i struggle to find the sweetspot

 

thank you for your work 😉

Edited by teknoid85
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3 hours ago, teknoid85 said:

hello

i'm usually  doing the setups myself, but can i ask you for a generic good  gravel setup for the integrale?  to go really  fast and without too much understeer?

 

it's the only car i struggle to find the sweetspot

 

thank you for your work 😉

just dropped my Lancia Delta setups 12pm today. 

 

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Hi there, I was wondering when you plan to do the evo x, I normally tune it myself but I'm struggling with Monte atm, all your other tunes are spot on so I'm excited to see what you can do with that car.

Thanks once again for your work!

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I am really struggling with Sweden, can't seem to find a good setup for my drivetrain/suspsension. Just was wondering if you had a spare few moments @2Technical if you could give me some pointers on tuning my Peugeot 208 T16 for Sweden or maybe a screenshot of what you have for your car (if applicable). Anyone else down to help me feel free. I am in the first leg of my rally here in the "elite" category or w/e it is, AI is stomping me out having finished 23rd on Lysvik. It's weird, I like the stage, I feel fast but my times are awful. I've not tuned my car for the snow/ice before and am quite inexperienced in these conditions. Any help would be appreicated for sure! Thanks and hope you all have a wonderful weekend. I will be watching WRC in Chile and Formula 1 in Spain, so you know I will be! lol Cheers!

 

-ZA

 

UPDATE: I should be OK for right now. I decided to slap on my Argentina setup for Sweden and it actually worked out pretty darn good. I had to make some minor tweaks but I've improved my times and am back at the top spot. It's by no means perfect but it's doing the job! You can safely ignore my request for screenshots @2Technical, I am set until you update your vids here later! If anyone wants to post their setups or w/e, I'll still take them, just no need to go out of your way for me. Thanks! 

 

Edited by ZeroAffex
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44 minutes ago, gleylancer571 said:

I really had problems with the BMW M3 but with the right setup, this is a great car

imho e30  is one of the most fun rwd car in game.    99% my choice  of H3

Edited by teknoid85
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2Technical i love your setup , with your setting I take pleasure in driving and feel even better sensations. Could I solicit your help to set the GT4 camaro, my little experience can't solve the problem of cornering, either I can solve the problem at low speed or at large but never both at the same time. thanks you for releasing your setup. Sorry for my english i'm french young player

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On 5/18/2019 at 4:21 PM, danielofifi said:

Can't get a decent setup for Porsche R-GT on tarmac. It just slides all over the place and I really struggled in this week's weekly event. Any ideas?

I assume you mean on corner exit? Any of those will help: increase toe-in at the rear/reduce camber at the rear/increase driving lock/decrease spring stiffnes at the rear.

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On 5/5/2019 at 4:07 PM, Eisenhorn said:

Hi there, I was wondering when you plan to do the evo x, I normally tune it myself but I'm struggling with Monte atm, all your other tunes are spot on so I'm excited to see what you can do with that car.

Thanks once again for your work!

Also been on the lookout for some Evo X tunes. Anyone got some to share yet?

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Would love some Group B RX setups. The only thing I can figure is raising the gear ratios and using tons of left foot braking to keep the boost up.

RE Porsche GT Tarmac, a little softer on the suspension seems to help a ton as does increasing camber in the front.  Over all, still needs a lot of left foot braking. It can help to use higher gears if you're having trouble, so the rear doesnt get loose as much.

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  • 2 weeks later...

what is right?

 

Dirt 4: "A toe-out angle on the front wheels increases stability but can make the steering feel vague.

A toe-in angle can incease turn-in response at the cost of stability."
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9f7Ney_PuM&t=53s

Dirt Rally 2: "Toe in on the front increases stability at the cost of responsiveness, however too much can cause the vehicle to understeer. Toe out on the front increases turn in, however this can cause vague steering."
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RA3j3Uvw5Bk&t=1m08s

Dirt Rally: "A negative toe angle on the front wheels increases stability but can make the steering feel vague. A positive toe angle can increae turn-in response at the cost of stability."

(not relevant because CM does not indicate what they mean by "negative" and "positive")

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5G8wDQf99M&t=17m20s

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On 7/17/2019 at 8:34 PM, PaulNbg said:

what is right?

 

Dirt 4: "A toe-out angle on the front wheels increases stability but can make the steering feel vague.

A toe-in angle can incease turn-in response at the cost of stability."
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9f7Ney_PuM&t=53s

Dirt Rally 2: "Toe in on the front increases stability at the cost of responsiveness, however too much can cause the vehicle to understeer. Toe out on the front increases turn in, however this can cause vague steering."
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RA3j3Uvw5Bk&t=1m08s

Dirt Rally: "A negative toe angle on the front wheels increases stability but can make the steering feel vague. A positive toe angle can increae turn-in response at the cost of stability."

(not relevant because CM does not indicate what they mean by "negative" and "positive")

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5G8wDQf99M&t=17m20s

Yeah, in reality I'm pretty sure the DR2 explanation is the correct one. Negative toe (toe out- wheels pointing away from each other) improves cornering and responsiveness, positive (toe in- wheels pointing to each other) improves straight line stability.

Now, the question is, how well does tinkering with setups translate to the car's behaviour. Is it realistic? I haven't played with setups in DR2, I've got some experience tuning cars in Project Cars 2, I wonder if I could transfer this knowledge into DR2. Will have to try one day.

Also, I wonder how many variables are affected. Can lowering your ride height and softening suspension too much result in bottoming out? Does excessive toe increase tyre wear in the game? It should because it does in reality, right? If we had telemetry, we would have the answers, as such it's a guessing game.

Edited by danielofifi
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  • 2 weeks later...

Just want to say thanks for the setups!. I play dirt casually when I get off work and neve really tried to tune my cars. I came across this site a while ago and it really has improved my times on some courses but also really depends on how tores I am after work. If your tired you just want get good times at all but console of the courses i have gained 30 seconds so I say keep on keeping on. Your doing a great job.

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First and foremost a big thank you to 2Technical for creating all of these. Regarding gear ratios, I see that the final drive is almost always set at the minimum, with adjustments being made to each gear. Can you please share your approach/formula on your gear-level adjustments? Thank you..

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18 hours ago, ac11367 said:

First and foremost a big thank you to 2Technical for creating all of these. Regarding gear ratios, I see that the final drive is almost always set at the minimum, with adjustments being made to each gear. Can you please share your approach/formula on your gear-level adjustments? Thank you..

This is 2Technical's reply when asked this on his YouTube page.

"A lower final drive aims towards better acceleration. Where as a higher final drive aims towards top speed. Seen as rally cars very rarely achieve top speed I focus my setups heavily towards acceleration only increasing the final drive as and when I start redlining in top gear."

I used to be lazy and just increase the final drive all the time but since using 2Technical's gearing I can really feel the engine pulling now. There's so much more torque.

Hope that helps

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13 hours ago, EvilCee said:

This is 2Technical's reply when asked this on his YouTube page.

"A lower final drive aims towards better acceleration. Where as a higher final drive aims towards top speed. Seen as rally cars very rarely achieve top speed I focus my setups heavily towards acceleration only increasing the final drive as and when I start redlining in top gear."

I used to be lazy and just increase the final drive all the time but since using 2Technical's gearing I can really feel the engine pulling now. There's so much more torque.

Hope that helps

Thank you EvilCee. Recently I’ve been moving the final drive very close to the minimum and could really see the difference in acceleration. I’m not even sure why it’s in the middle by default. But what I really wanted to know is what’s behind 2Tech’s adjustments from gear 1 to 5 (or even 6). From his video, although he almost always set the final drive to minimum, he adjusts the other gears to fit the locale. I was wondering if he deploys some kind of math behind his gear-level adjustments. 

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Thank you! I like to find tunes that others have done than tweak them to work with the way I drive (pull a trigger on the controller, my reaction time, my body movements that I don't know I'm doing, etc.)  I have A.D.D. so after a while, specially on those 5-10+ mins tracks, it gets difficult and I have the repair bills to prove it haha.

 

Also, to anyone who gets upset with these tunes, when you are driving with them, the OP isn't driving. You are. A lot of things need to be taken into consideration. Such as, reaction times, nervous movements (when your drifting around a corner and your rear tire taps a rock. It's how you react to that.) and so much more. Specially, how is the controller setup? Get that setup before you criticize others tunes.

Edited by eightydee
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/23/2019 at 12:29 PM, danielofifi said:

Yeah, in reality I'm pretty sure the DR2 explanation is the correct one. Negative toe (toe out- wheels pointing away from each other) improves cornering and responsiveness, positive (toe in- wheels pointing to each other) improves straight line stability.

 

My explanation would be

Toe-out angle on the front accelerates the reaction, but creates a counter-steering effect as soon as the weight acts on the outer wheel of the curve. Perhaps interesting with rear-wheel drive.

Toe-in on the front reduces the reaction, but creates a steering effect as soon as the weight acts on the outside wheel. Perhaps interesting for front-wheel drive vehicles.

During high-speed stages and on asphalt, both variants can cause inaccurate steering.

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2Technical, thank you so much for those setups! I have recently bought the game and realized that there was no Steam Workshop for DR2 (how silly!). Your tuning videos are the best in this situation.

I am using Xbox One Controller and so far your tuning is FANTASTIC and I am having lots of fun with it! :classic_smile: Again, thank you!

Please, forgive me if it was already asked but are you planning to add setups for other seasonal locations like Greece, Finland and the future ones?

Edited by Bhaya108
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On 11/21/2019 at 9:30 PM, Bhaya108 said:


Please, forgive me if it was already asked but are you planning to add setups for other seasonal locations like Greece, Finland and the future ones?

future ones? nobody outside Codemasters knows if there are future ones haha

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I'd just like to add that @2Technical's setups are amazing.   In particular I'm a huge fan of the gear ratios.  If I would take one thing from every GTRTechnical setup, it's the gearbox settings.

I do get the impression that the setups are optimized for clean stages (no degradation) and fresh soft tyres, so I'd encourage people to use GTRTechnical setups as a starting point and play around with the springs/dampers/differentials as needed for the kind of rally you're doing.  They may not be the best for worn surfaces on worn tyres, but they're still by far better than no setup, and the gearbox settings are still extremely well optimized regardless of conditions.

Edited by ApexAzimuth
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Hey I just wanted to give u a big thumbs up for the tunes, they have really put the fun back into dirt for me. Mainly doing fwd at the moment and am on top page for pretty much every track I've done and with a fair few 1st places along the way. I occasionally may make minor tweaks to the diff and gears and in Argentina I found taking 1 click off the rear toe steadies things up if I'm getting too much rotation, is all I ever need to do, probably the difference between controller and wheel.

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On 2/4/2020 at 12:00 AM, ApexAzimuth said:

I'd just like to add that @2Technical's setups are amazing.   In particular I'm a huge fan of the gear ratios.  If I would take one thing from every GTRTechnical setup, it's the gearbox settings.

I do get the impression that the setups are optimized for clean stages (no degradation) and fresh soft tyres, so I'd encourage people to use GTRTechnical setups as a starting point and play around with the springs/dampers/differentials as needed for the kind of rally you're doing.  They may not be the best for worn surfaces on worn tyres, but they're still by far better than no setup, and the gearbox settings are still extremely well optimized regardless of conditions.

Nail on the head there @ApexAzimuth. Due to the fact you cant dive back and forth to the service park to adjust the setup once you start a custom championship, all my setups are created in time trial with fresh soft tyres and no stage deg. So unless your driving style is the same as mine and your running in time trial you will have to adjust the setups i share to optimise is for yourself. They are only meant to be referenced as a guide, basically saying to get the best out of the car you need to be some where around here. The good thing is about the setups is you know immediately that if your running with stage deg/worn tyres/harder compound or in the wet you know that the dampers/springs/ rollbars will need to be softer and the diffs looser, and with slightly less camber. So they are very much a good starting point for your own setups. After all there is no such thing as one setup to rule them all.

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I'm a relative noob when it comes to setups but have been using your tuning recently and like them a lot! However, could you (or somebody else) go into a little bit more detail about the changes one should make to tune for stage degradation, harder compounds and wet surfaces?

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On 4/8/2020 at 11:14 PM, Zandil said:

i assume devs have changed some of the figures since your early setups ?  noticed things like the RS200 you lower it by -30 but now it can only go -10 

are you sure you're looking at the same surface? the possible values are different for

a) tarmac

b) dirt/gravel

c) snow (sweden)

d) monte carlo

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One quick question, I try sometimes your setups and I find some of them very helpful. I did have a lot of trouble with Lancia Fulvia in Scotland heavy rain, and just by lowering camber, and loosening the diff 3 clicks (as you have written in one your videos...) the car behaviour was strange and I was losing a lot of time

But the question is, I have already seen your video of H1 comparison class... but "new" locations like Finland make me wonder

Is the Mini overall a faster car than a Lancia Fulvia as today? I tried them in a lot of wet stages in time trial (specially Scotland where I struggle a lot) and I am slightly faster with the Lancia, maybe because of having 500 kms with it... And in dry I am faster by a huge margin with the lancia Finland for example (with my actual driving)..  I am looking for the easiest car to progress in elite career mode and so far class H1 was good for me (in pro, club)

A lot of people and usually the ranking tells otherwise... that the Mini has a slight advantage, excluding maybe Finland, Poland, Australia (Spain cause of long straights ?)

Edited by IgorPr
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Ive said it before but its utterly stupid that Steam Workshop wasnt included with this title. 

If it werent for GTR Technicals setups, I'd be really annoyed. I dont have time to sit there and tune so many setups for so many cars on so many tracks; his setups are almosy always perfect for me, at least in 90% of cases, otherwise some racks I do soften the setup a touch for my driving style (or maybr because I use a gamepad and not a wheel). Without these setups I dare say I'd havr given up on this game a long time ago. 

 

Why Dirt Rally 2.0 does not have Workshop while the first one and all F1 titles have it I dont know. 

 

If they do another Dirt Rally title I will be thinking twice if Workshop (and this whole drip feedong of content from previous iterations) rears its head again.

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6 hours ago, tonzboher said:

Just recently purchased a thrustmaster T150 wheel for use with my PS4, does anyone have a set up for the wheel for dirt rally 2.0?

I don't really know much about the ps4 and what you can and can not do, but for PC.

Go to - \Steam\steamapps\common\DiRT Rally 2.0\input\devices

Open in notepad.


Find -

<device id="{B677044F-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}" name="tm_t150" priority="100" type="wheel"  />

Change to -

<device id="{B677044F-0000-0000-0000-504944564944}" name="tm_t150" priority="100" type="wheel" ffb_force="1.0" />

In-game, in the R5's I use something between 105 and 110 steering torque. 70 tyre friction and 130 suspensions. Turn self-centring off, also turn off wheel friction, set collision 20.

In-TM control panel, set overall force to 75%, all the rest to 100%, let the game do centring. I set the wheel to 540, and in-game turn off soft lock.

Edited by MBos
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Thanks a lot for all the effort you've put into this, 2Technical. Just recently got the game for free from PS Store so I haven't tried that many cars, let alone setups, yet. The few setups I've seen from your YT channel seemed very much alike, even though the cars were completely different. I assume that's a trend in the game - certain things are a given, such as a very stiff suspension?

I've always been inclined to do my own setups or just drive with the default ones. Your gear-ratios, however, helped me a lot and saved me so much time I feel like I owe you something.

Reading through the thread I saw some discussion about how much faster a good setup makes a driver. Well, personally I was trying to set a Group B WR to Kotajärvi and got to 4th, 4 seconds away from the top - with the default setup. Then I practically copied 2Technical's Peugeot 205 Evo setup to my Lancia Delta S4 and shaved off 5 seconds, which I don't think would've been possible with the default setup. The reason for using the Peugeot setup was pure laziness. Screenshotting setups from YT with the PS4 and going back and forth between Capture Gallery and the game copying different values might be a fun minigame to some, but when I've got my gloves on and want to hit the road, I usually can't be bothered.

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32 minutes ago, UnluckyForSome said:

Hi GTR Technical, I noticed you've been doing WRX cars recently. Please can you do the Renault Megane RS RX! It seems to be the fastest in the class if you look at the leaderboard...

'18 or '19? It's the fastest in '18 but the 208 is faster in '19.

 

Also, it's more obvious in Rallycross, but there is a big difference between a Time Trial setup and a race setup. 

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