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F1 2019 FFB settings? Share

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Love fanatec setup, but not viable on console with half the buttons not working on ps4.

plus i have a hand modified wheel based on ferrari rim. 3,5 inch tct, leds, arduino nano. Still a work in progress and improving it.C8188FB7-2C34-498D-BC3F-6B544AC95AC3.thumb.jpeg.1bdcf87584e44f576496e5a056ef9a02.jpeg

running on simhub. My T3PA has the basic loadcell 20kg for now, I'm busy rebuilding my pedal set with a likely setup to fanatec with changable bushings. Travel on this loadcell is so short that trailbraking is quite hard, and i want a bit more "feel" when i let go of the brake. Plus the loadcell will be upgraded to 50kgs

The plastic housing is going out, because the pedals themselves are built in metal struts which are screwed in the plastic, and i never use the clutch. This way I can postition the throttle and brake pedal better on my playseat f1 and in a much better metal structure. 

Edited by AlexTT
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On 7/26/2019 at 1:53 PM, TomAAA said:

Thrusmaster TS-XW Wheel

FFB- 46

Road effects - 30

Kerbs - 30

Offroad - 25

Wheel Damper - 25

I got to drive a Formula 1 car in real life around Silverstone (smaller National circuit loop) a couple years back as part of a press day at the track. Each person there got 3 laps, it was a 2012 lotus in Renault livery, and believe it or not this is the closest setting I've found.

The high FFB and strength people use in games is not there in real life as the cars have amazing power steering (most of the forces where on my head as the car turned corners)  The kerb vibration could be higher as in real life it almost shook my eyes out lol, but in the game it feels overboard when trying to control the car. 

Tried these settings on a Thrustmaster TMX and probably the nicest feeling I've got so far from the wheel.

Although I seem to have a problem with the wheel going really light in tight corners (think turns 1 & 10 at Bahrain) so I end up losing the steering angle and going wide - I can't turn any further in because I'm at maximum rotation (360 degrees in game).

Not sure what's causing this? Have tried fiddling with the wheel damper settings and turning understeer enhance on/off with no joy.

EDIT: Figured it out. The TMX has settings on the base itself that you can change in increments for maximum degrees of rotation and steering sensitivity.

Currently have this setting matching the in game setting at 360 degrees and the steering sensitivity at 3 (which is second lowest so you don't get instances of snap oversteer).

Can confirm that I can now hold those tight corners without any loss of steering angle!

Edited by withdrew

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On 7/27/2019 at 5:12 PM, TomAAA said:

On console, Xbox. Wheel base on standard default settings

Do you have any idea what is default base settings on consoles?

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It's all well and good sharing ffb but first you need to find a set up that suits your style then afterwards sort the ffb.

Different set ups vastly affect how ffb feels. Some make the steering feel heavier on the same ffb strength setting.

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On 7/26/2019 at 2:53 PM, TomAAA said:

Thrusmaster TS-XW Wheel

FFB- 46

Road effects - 30

Kerbs - 30

Offroad - 25

Wheel Damper - 25

I got to drive a Formula 1 car in real life around Silverstone (smaller National circuit loop) a couple years back as part of a press day at the track. Each person there got 3 laps, it was a 2012 lotus in Renault livery, and believe it or not this is the closest setting I've found.

The high FFB and strength people use in games is not there in real life as the cars have amazing power steering (most of the forces where on my head as the car turned corners)  The kerb vibration could be higher as in real life it almost shook my eyes out lol, but in the game it feels overboard when trying to control the car. 

Didnt trust that settings but tried yesterday and iam really impressed.I really love that light wheel for counter steering and fast corners but other side i missing that grip feeling especialy if i lost my back end.Tried on PC T300 default settings is overall strenght 75% and rest 100%.

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Codemasters, why is Force Feedback like butter?


Fanatec DD PS4


Steering is just not direct, no matter what I do at the base.
Everything is so dampened

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New FFB settings for T300/T150:

100

30

100

60

25

Off

360°

 

Imo, i can't get a better feel on F1 2019 with my two wheels than this.

 

Borrowed a Fanatec wheel from my mate, was quite a bit better than the Thrustmaster wheel on FFB.

 

My personal conclusion:

 

Other simulators have much more detailed FFB, if compared to F1 2019.

Codemasters can and should improve upon that.

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On 8/6/2019 at 9:23 AM, Neomo said:

Didnt trust that settings but tried yesterday and iam really impressed.I really love that light wheel for counter steering and fast corners but other side i missing that grip feeling especialy if i lost my back end.Tried on PC T300 default settings is overall strenght 75% and rest 100%.

One reason this feels good.

Have you noticed the fan comes on less?

If you do then it's because the unit is not getting hot.

I noticed by following the pc problems high FFB make the fan kick in more because unit get hot and the heat make the unit go into save mode to protect the itself.

I don't run any FFB now over 75

And I play around with road feed back.

But that just me I use a stand so these thing also effect you.

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EDIT: Final Settings in red

 

After quite a few years out of the wheel game(had 5+ full seasons/everything on in F1 2014 in the 360/CSR days.  Then, kids.... Finally back in it again and of course chasing settings.   Currently 2.5 CSW with CSL Loadcell pedals on XBOX one.  I just have the lightweight P1 general wheel to get started, the Mclaren GT3 is delayed(again), so may end up ponying up for a CSW F1 Wheel.  But it's super light and responsive, just need to ignore the 'wrong' parts of the steering wheel and buttons are of course in terrible locations for F1 cars.


Found most of the general direction of Fanatec settings pretty close, just a little too strong in overall FFB.  Also, it's a PITA to get thrown into the silly scenarios and try to figure out FFB.   I'm still a little green back in the saddle but used to run 100% everything full difficulty, so working back there. Still need to get out of 50% Traction control, but just running practice at Australia over and over trying to get the feel right. It actually loads up quite well with fairly low FB settings and getting faster by the minute now that I can DRIVE the game.  Goofing off at 70% difficulty and raising steadily, still getting fastest P3 Laps in a Haas, I'll keep raising it until I'm around 8-10th fastest without cheating corners, then get this season started.  🙂

 

Anyway, newest drivers so some settings are a bit different than earlier posts doing the same thing(totally different menu now).

Wheel:
SEN: AUTO
FFB:  100
SHO: 100(don't think it does anything on this wheel)
ABS: Not sorted yet until I get BRF and game brake settings set. Usually like it at 95% of in game input once it's set up.
DRI:  -1 Still carrying plenty of load up at speed and some realistic wheel work flirting with curbs-little light unloaded, but more progressive loading of the tires sensation at speed. -2 Just got to be a bit too much work, especially when I go full length/full season. 
BRF: 40 (personal preference setting to match pedal/LC)
FEI:  60, gets me that real 'rubber' feel without unrealistic chatter unloaded on straights.  May vary on some tracks +/- 10.  Kept knocking it down until the chatter JUST stays 'gone'.  FEI % can change from track to track in most games depending on the fidelity in which a given track was modeled.

Game:

Vibration/FFB ON (of course)
FFB: 60%
On Track ~18/Off Track ~25 personal preference, the CSW is still strong even at 0.
Rumble Strips ~30 personal preference, may knock it up/down a bit for a track like SPA with less aggressive curbs vs Monaco etc. Also trying to match the wheel ffb to the buttkicker feedback 🙂 
Damper 0
Understeer OFF
Wheel Rotation 340, was mentally 'undershooting' my anticipated lines at 360.

The Track/Rumble strip effects are fairly strong, I feel like I should get punished a bit for it though for when 'cheating' the grass or corners.  Although If I were online racing I would zero these out as much as possible.

Advanced settings:

 

**EDIT: I Did end up swapping the 'Cluch(brake on 2 pedal CSL setup)' with the Throttle.  It was a bit too stiff for full travel and I found myself forced to shift my feet too much, so I added a rubber bumper(square clear vinyl 3/4" square x 1/4") from the hardware store to remove 1/2" of travel and set 100% to the shorter travel.  Works friggin' PERFECT, 5 minute fix, just stuck it on the stopper pad.  Personally using a bit of throttle linearity at 25% to help modulate it in the heat of battle, particularly getting out of busy hairpin turns.

Just couldn't find setting threads with all Fanatec updates and kept finding this particular thread, figured I'd bloviate here-especially on a meaningless half-day at work.  I'll work on it a bit more and edit this.  Just like when I was here 5-6 years ago endlessly tweaking.

 

I also added the audible beep(s) for DRS and for Shifting.  I hadn't played since the '14 edition and was going by feel and sound for a few hours running laps to get everything 'right' with my new setup.  With virtually ZERO indication from sound or available visual cues I didn't realize there even WAS an 8th gear until I turned it on :classic_blink:.  And the 2 green light indicator on the Hass wheel for DRS just wasn't enough.  I know these tracks for DRS well and had no idea if DRS was even open at first.  Switched those two on and within 4-5 laps I felt like I hit hyperdrive and everything FINALLY grooved in the game. The rev limiter is WAY beyond the peak of the power band, so shifting just up to that is worthless. The newer engines have the most awful sound.

Also changed field of view to 55 to get the mirrors 2/3rds the way in view to watch the wing, and better see my adjacent racers, and got rid of the HALO bar, the antenna in the center of the Hass that is still there is about what it would actually look like anyway IRL.

 

Finally ran Melbourne full race @80% difficulty and ran 3rd until my tires just could not hold of Luclerc with 2 to go(Botas had a grid penalty).  Still need to up the difficulty a bit until 6th is a great finish, but it felt pretty damn awesome as a whole I must say.

 






 

Edited by kevinb120
Finalized settings
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Struggling to get a good feel with the 12019 (G920) game help would be great I am running

FFB- 60

Road effects - 20

Kerbs - 25

Offroad - 15

Wheel Damper - 10

Really love AC ffb I left it on stock G920 settings and the feeling of grip on the track was immense. Makes my 2019 ffb feel very dull. When the rear goes I do not feel it until its way too late.

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On 6/25/2019 at 2:16 PM, wahhhz said:

Currently running a TM TX with t3pa on XBOX

On F1 2018 i had the following setup, i copied that one over but still feel like i'm missing something. Feels too light to turn. Curious what over setups you guys n gals are using.

FFB 100

Road effects - 40

Kerbs - 30

Offroad - 30

Wheel weight - 35

 

Waz 

I’m on PS4 with TM T300 with F1 rim and T3PA Pros

FFB 150

On track 20

Rumble 50

Off Track 40

Wheel Damper 10

Understeer On

Rotation 360

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G29 on PS4...

All default except:

Throttle Linearity - 20%
Force Feedback - 50%
Wheel Rotation - 360-400 Degrees (Depending on track)

 

Many thanks to David Greco for suggesting the settings shortly after F1 2019s release, worked a treat 👍

 

Edited by stephensmattlee

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