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T300 FFB is broken since patch 1.06 ps4 uk [SG]

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2 hours ago, Hoo said:

Thanks to everyone that has been helping out with this issue! 🙂 

The description pointed out by @YesItsReallyMe identified an issue with the menu screens that appears to be causing the FFB settings to go wrong in some situations. We don't have a fix yet, but were able to follow their steps and replicate the issue here for the first time! We are now doing further tests in the area to help track down what is going on. 

Unfortunately, we haven't been able to replicate any other issues - we've done comparisons with different versions of the game across GP and online game modes using the Mercedes and have yet to find any differences.

@senna94f1 - are you able to confirm what game mode and tracks you were using in your test and then we'll try that out here?

 

As a new F1 series customer, but experienced sim-racer, I find this encouraging. There's been lots of negativity directed at CodeMasters in this forum for ignoring issues with F1 2019. I hope this is an indication that CM is willing to address any issues that are specifically defined. I'll admit, I'm still very green when it comes to the game, and therefore don't venture online much. Other games ((PCars 2, Assetto, Gt Sport) I play are pretty much exclusively online, but I just don't have the track knowledge to safely race side by side in F1 yet. This is probably why I haven't encountered the frustrating FFB issues others have, but believe me, I can understand how frustrating muted FFB can be. It renders a game unplayable. So thank you to the community for testing and giving specific, detailed information to the devs. And thank you to @Hoo for listening, relaying the information, and updating the community. For what it's worth, I'm pleased to have purchased F1 2019. I've considered F1 games for several years, and finally pulled the trigger this year. It's a very fun, challenging, and immersive game. Hope this issue gets resolved as I intend on delving into the online aspect once I've completed a full season and learned every track well. Thanks again to all that are helping in a constructive way!

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Posted (edited)
On 9/30/2019 at 3:44 PM, Hoo said:

Thanks to everyone that has been helping out with this issue! 🙂 

The description pointed out by @YesItsReallyMe identified an issue with the menu screens that appears to be causing the FFB settings to go wrong in some situations. We don't have a fix yet, but were able to follow their steps and replicate the issue here for the first time! We are now doing further tests in the area to help track down what is going on. 

Unfortunately, we haven't been able to replicate any other issues - we've done comparisons with different versions of the game across GP and online game modes using the Mercedes and have yet to find any differences.

@senna94f1 - are you able to confirm what game mode and tracks you were using in your test and then we'll try that out here?

 

@Hoo this is welcome news. Thanks for getting back to us, feel positive now that the issue can be traced.

Ive done some further digging myself over the weekend and I think I may of found something. I tried every combination possible for this and this is what I found. I had a league race on Monday at Singapore so all this testing was done at that track, sorry about that :classic_biggrin:

Turned on the ps4 and the wheel calibrated fine as usual. I left the wheel base on the default 4 flashes and loaded the game.

Went straight to GP mode - Mercedes - Singapore - Default setup the one inbetween full downforce and default balanced one (2nd setup from the left) - 5 laps. FFB felt okay.

Online unranked practice - Official cars - Equal Performance- Mercedes - 45 mins session - one shot qually - 5 lap race - same default setup as above - FFB was giving the weak/supressed feeling again. Really chalk and cheese feeling between GP mode and online.

Worked on a setup in TT and GP mode then saved it. I went back into a unranked lobby same lobby settings as before. This time i used the Ferrari as its my league car.

I tried the default setup again first, it felt the same as the mercedes. I then went into the pits and changed the default setup to the setup i had worked on by changing the values of the default setup and NOT loading it in. The FFB felt a bit better.

I then came into the pits, and loaded in the custom setup I had made - FFB felt a bit more better. Making changes out on track from the MFD was making the FFB respond. The 2 settings you can change from the MFD - Front brake Bias & Diff were making the FFB go strong and weak. I can understand the diff making that happen but why the brake bias?

Returned to pit - loaded in my custom setup again. But I changed the 2 settings Front brake bias & Diff back to what the default setting was in the setup screen in the pits. so in my case the default front brake bias was 59 and the diff 75 in the setup screen in the pits.

Left the pits and didnt touch anything till i got out on track at turn 3. This is where it gets intresting..... I altered the diff from the MFD to my custom setup value of 65. The FFB switched on. I then changed the brake bias from the MFD to my custom setup value of 54, the FFB switched on even more!!! It felt more like offline, slightly weaker but not much but definitely better than the FFB issue we've been getting online. I tried all compounds of tyres and the FFB was amazing.

Using this setup offline in GP mode seems to run better if you make the setup fresh everytime and not loaded in.

Online it runs better loading in your custom setup but change the 2 MFD settings back to the default setup values and the change them back to your custom setup values from the MFD once out on track. DO this everytime during qually and the FFB will respond.

So... I put this workaround to the test during my league race last night.

loaded in my custom setup - changed the 2 settings back to default value brake bias and the top diff in the setup screen in the pits. Drove out of the pits again and didnt touch anything till i joined the track at Turn 3. I then changed the brake bias and diff setting from the MFD to my custom setup values and the FFB was there!

Everytime in qually before going out i changed the brake bias & top diff back to default values then changed them to custom setup values from MFD once on track. My pace was back and the FFB was there.

Finished qually, then the game takes you to the race start. i went back into the setup and changed the brake bias and diff again back to default setup values. we started the formation lap, i then used the MFD to change them 2 settings back to my custom setup values during the formation lap and it made the FFB switch on again.

I had made a hash of qually, i was purple in both sectors till i binned it then it started raining. Started 12th and ended up finishing 3rd. I had pace i was overtaking cars, the FFB was responding, fuel was lasting a lot longer along with ERS. Ive been struggling to finish in the top 1o in my league before using this workaround and last night just felt like a different game, I was actually going forward during the race and not backwards like my other races.

Im going to use this method from now on as it seems to be an temporary fix to the problems weve been getting, or it is for me anyway. Does this point to an issue with official cars in unranked lobbies, custom setups or a problem with the MFD? or a bit of all 3?

After my league race had finished and id crossed the line I pressed options and there was a report code in there XAKB-MVCR-CTAJ-HBEG if its any help to you.

The above method also works if you set the wheel base to 2 flashes before loading the game, but the FFB feels a lot weaker so im leaving it on the default 4 from now on too.

I hope this can help you further, a lot of hours went into this over weekend and a lot of laps.

 

Edited by YesItsReallyMe
additional info
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Hi @YesItsReallyMe,

Thanks for the info. We'll take a look and see if we can recreate these issues.

 

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Well, I've unfortunately experienced this lack of FFB issue myself. I have little to inform as it was unexpected, but I'll give the best description I can. 

To start (my signature includes my devices), I was in career mode and had just finished a 25% race at Baku in the McLaren. I used a custom setup and had great FFB through the entire race weekend (3 practice sessions, knock out qually, 25% race). Moved on to Spanish GP, still in career mode. Loaded a custom setup from the setup forum and started with Track Acclimatization in P1. Track felt green, especially on hard tires, but normal as far as FFB is concerned. Finished Track Acc., making a few small setup changes along the way,  and moved on to the Fuel Management program.

This is where things got weird. Pulled out of the pits and the FFB felt extremely different. Like a switch got flipped. It was like somebody else described, like there were snowmobile skis replacing the front tires (maybe a bit of an exaggeration, but that's definitely the FFB sensation compared to normal). I switched from hard to medium tires and while the grip level changed as one would expect, it was relative to to overall reduced FFB. Still like having snowmobile skis, but now with fresh carbides installed. I couldn't come within 1 second of hitting my target fuel management time, and I know Barcelona very well from years of racing it on other sims. Numb, weak, low resistance (like power steering), and non-dynamic is how I would describe the FFB. It really felt like the car's front tires weren't making full contact with the track surface. This had me pushing hard as I could, but just couldn't make solid lap times. This, despite hitting brake points, apexes, using runoff curbs, and running what I consider clean laps. Tried resetting/reloading my setup, then tried unmodified setups, and everything felt pretty much the same, except for expected changes in understeer and oversteer. 

Frustrated, but not wanting to quit racing for the evening, I decided to restart my F2 career. Pulling out of the pits at Bahrain I was SHOCKED at how much different the wheel felt. My wheel was "switched back on." I had a lot more turning resistance, the front wheels felt connected to the track surface, small inputs had a greater impact (what I consider that "dynamic" feeling), and the car was responding to those inputs how I expected it to. In short, I was relieved there's still a playable part of the game while the devs try to figure out what's causing this FFB issue in the F1 cars. 

Since this was my first negative experience with the game I wasn't really in troubleshooting mode, so I didn't do any further testing. But I'll definitely follow the guidelines set forth by @Hoo in any future sessions and report back on the results. I also noticed an error code just before shutting down the game, but unfortunately have no idea when the error occurred. I'm still including the code at the bottom of the post. Hopefully this is a correctable bug. I know troubleshooting random faults is the most difficult kind of troubleshooting, but this one is a major bummer and kind of game ruining. I'll do my best to report any additional issues I encounter, and will try to be more detailed in what steps I take to try and isolate when I experience the issue. Thank you for your continued help to the community for testing and reporting, and to Codies for listening and working on fixing the problems we encounter. 

Error code: VTMA-MCXS-AASS-PEKG

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On 1 October 2019 at 4:23 PM, Hoo said:

Hi @YesItsReallyMe,

Thanks for the info. We'll take a look and see if we can recreate these issues.

 

T300/racing rig,

league owners, ps4 and pro , 

f12019 and all other past f1 games , dirt rally and 2.0 , assetto corsa,

sometimes iracing on my gaming PC,

 

, ,thanks Hoo and the staff at codemasters in taking the time to look at ffb issues for wheel users,

i for one want our league and the many other leagues that my sim community friends run to all go back to F12019 ,

as I say we've all in the above leagues recreated the ffb issues and constantly posted on the forum in order to help codemasters recreate the ffb issues for wheel users,

weve lost the very fine details in how the ffb communicates back to the wheel ,

and you must make pad vs wheel equal,if not you will only get kids to race in the open lobby's which results in diveboming and complete mayhem,

hence f12019 had the shortest life cycle of any game I've ever seen,

the future is bright and sooner than later everyone will be using a wheel ,

i  really hope that you can solve these bugs ,

all the best . 

 

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On 9/27/2019 at 3:13 PM, Hoo said:

@YesItsReallyMe - excellent work! Thanks for this info. We're trying to hunt down what is going on here.

@Hoo anything? It is pretty ridiculous. For example, racing in my F1 2019 League, turn 14 on Japan. FFB drop to 0.
Maybe you missed it, but here is the info you requested:

  • What platform you are on (including pro or base version if on PS4)
    • Standard PS4.
  • What make and model of wheel you are using, plus any pedals and other controllers you might have connected
    • T300 with standard dual pedals, Sony wireless headphones.
  • What firmware your wheel is on (and what driver version you are using if on PC)
    • Latest firmware: 29
  • What control scheme you are using (preset or custom)
    • Custom
  • What advanced steering wheel settings you are using ,
    • Custom
  • What game modes you are playing when noticing these issues. Please also check to see if this occurs in Time Trial too as this is the simplest test bed for checking handling issues.
    • FFB is really bad in League mode.
    • FFB feels best in time trial mode, huge difference compared to League mode.
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Hi All,

We are still looking into this issue. We'll post an update as soon as we have any more info.

Thanks.

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Codemasters

Please make the FF in the oline lobby (car strength equal) as well as in the GP mode!

done and everything is fine

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On 10/7/2019 at 12:45 PM, Hoo said:

Hi All,

We are still looking into this issue. We'll post an update as soon as we have any more info.

Thanks.

Thnx!

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Hi all

I trust everybody has the Friday feeling, 2nd best day of the week 😍

Do we have any kind of news please, 

as ive said many times easiest way to see difference in FFB is to choose any track ,. Now drive f1 2010 McLaren around your chosen tracking with default car set up, and ffb feels great,

Now choose any f1 2019 car and go on same track with same default car setup and then feel the huge difference in ffb and  how the modern f12019 car ffb feels a lot worse,

from dayone release both cars on same track  using same default car setup the ffb felt the same in both cars,

thats the easiest way to feel the difference,

all the best and I hope you all have a great weekend.🏁🏎🚥😍

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Still broken, FFB on my T500rs is terrible.  Typical Codeblunderers, introduce old problems and break things and have no idea how to fix them. (this time, AFTER you had something pretty damn good)

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Sorry all, we haven't been able to make any progress with this one so far. The various suggestions above aren't causing the issues for us here. We're still looking into this issue though and trying the various steps suggested by everyone. 

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Please try the following:

GP mode
Mercedes choose
Qualifying and racing

then for comparison

Online lobby
Car no matter, but put strength equal
Qualifying and racing


Analysis:
Find out why in GP mode more grip and better force feedback than in the online lobby.

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Because we are racing pad users. In GP mode, we are not racing pad users. This problem extends to Time Trials, as wheel users are competing with pad users. 

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Old problem: pad users are in the advantage

when will this be turned off?

second old problem: why is not much faster without driving aids?

when is this changed?

Please answer @Hoo

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Personally, I don’t think they will change it.
 

And personally, I really don’t care anymore. I am over half way done with my league races. As it relates to points, I am sitting in 9th. Getting points by default, others DNFs. 
 

Also, this game is almost at this halfway mark. Codemasters will do what they do best, allocate resources to F1 2020 and it will not get fix.
 

And if they don’t get it fix, not sure if I am going to do this again after 10 years of league racing. Spent too much money on my Sim Rig to not get the best out of it. 

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7 hours ago, Hoo said:

Sorry all, we haven't been able to make any progress with this one so far. The various suggestions above aren't causing the issues for us here. We're still looking into this issue though and trying the various steps suggested by everyone. 

Why don't you just make the FFB level closer to TT then see what we report since we are the guinea pigs. I did say the same thing in my post.

Since you can't see feel what 1000s of use do?

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20 hours ago, Hoo said:

Sorry all, we haven't been able to make any progress with this one so far. The various suggestions above aren't causing the issues for us here. We're still looking into this issue though and trying the various steps suggested by everyone. 

Hello @Hoo. I'm slightly deflated to read this. The thing is we don't have to follow any steps for the suppressed FFB to be suppressed online it just happens. it's how the multiplayer player part loads in or something triggers it to happen. My friend has just upgraded to a t300 this past week and he's is getting exactly the same as everyone in here.

I've had a mixed bag in last 2 league races I've done using that method I posted last week. Canada a full wet race was fine after I did my method until I made a pitstop. After pitting the FFB disappeared, it was like I had a set of inters fitted or a set of worn wets. Before my stop I'd battled upto 2nd after stop I lost 2 places and 16secs of time to leaders in 14laps and finished 4th. I couldn't keep up and car was all over the road.

Can we come at it a different way? Not sure if it's linked but thought it was worth mentioning.

Changing camera settings, should changing these to what you want have big impacts on how the FFB is related back to the wheel? It does for me. Even moving 1 slider 1 notch up or down makes FFB feel very different. I have a custom camera setting. I set my cockpit camera how I like it and then there's t bar for testing this. I have 2 custom camera positions it effects the FFB for each seperate camera setting. If you delete one it makes the one you use go back to how FFB feels before you started adding another custom camera. Like makes a conflict if you have 2 custom camera settings saved. 

Are you able to share what camera and wheel settings you are testing this on so we can try what you are running our end and see if it makes a difference? I'm happy to give you mine for you to try your end aswell.

Seriously starting to pull my hair out with this one now. It's really putting me off playing the game online.

Made a mistake last week also. Went on GT sport for a couple of hours before F1 game. When I loaded F1 game in I thought my wheel had broken the difference in FFB between the games was that bad. On F1 it was like using a bungy cord wheel.

Is there anything else you can suggest for testing I'm not giving up yet but I'm getting close.

 

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The camera settings should not have any effect on the force feedback. It will obviously change your perception of speed and movement, but the wheel forces should be the same. We have been using default camera settings so far (T-cam with no adjustments), and a variety of wheel settings as listed in the post above.

If you delete your custom camera settings and use the default settings (possibly switching back to the t-cam) does the force feedback work ok?

 

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17 minutes ago, Hoo said:

The camera settings should not have any effect on the force feedback. It will obviously change your perception of speed and movement, but the wheel forces should be the same. We have been using default camera settings so far (T-cam with no adjustments), and a variety of wheel settings as listed in the post above.

If you delete your custom camera settings and use the default settings (possibly switching back to the t-cam) does the force feedback work ok?

 

@Hoo Thanks for your reply. I will try what you suggest above and report back. I might not get chance till tomorrow to try it but I will for sure.

But I can confirm changing camera settings for me drastically changes the FFB forces. Each notch feels very very different and if you have 2 separate camera settings say for tbar and cockpit that makes the FFB feel different aswell to just running one custom camera setting.

I will note down what I have set and give you this info aswell. Thanks

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7 hours ago, Hoo said:

The camera settings should not have any effect on the force feedback. It will obviously change your perception of speed and movement, but the wheel forces should be the same. We have been using default camera settings so far (T-cam with no adjustments), and a variety of wheel settings as listed in the post above.

If you delete your custom camera settings and use the default settings (possibly switching back to the t-cam) does the force feedback work ok?

 

Hi can you also check in cockpit view both default and adjusting the FOV -20 to - 35 this is a ruff of what I have seen.

Thanks and great news & step in the right direction we hope. Are you got to drop it live or beta test with us 1st

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Hi

I found that if I clear my custom settings then make a new one only 1 none for F2. Then I set up my wheel as normal. All seems fine but for how long we shall see.

My new settings are

V&FFBS 100 default

OTE 38

RSE 50

OTE 40

UE off

MWR 360.

cockpit view

PS4 t300 F1 add-on

 

 

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On 10/15/2019 at 6:57 PM, Hoo said:

The camera settings should not have any effect on the force feedback. It will obviously change your perception of speed and movement, but the wheel forces should be the same. We have been using default camera settings so far (T-cam with no adjustments), and a variety of wheel settings as listed in the post above.

If you delete your custom camera settings and use the default settings (possibly switching back to the t-cam) does the force feedback work ok?

 

Afternoon @Hoo sorry this has taken a couple of days to get back to you. But me and my friend tested this offline first then online over 2 days!

short answer to the question of resetting camera settings back to default. - It cures the problem of weak/Suppressed FFB online!! I am astounded!! It doesnt matter how you have the ffb setup strength wise it works whatever you use as long as you use the default camera settings!

my custom camera settings for the t cam i was using are as follows....

Fov- 0.15. Offset horizontal 0.40. Offset vertical 0.50. Angle 0.05. Everything else default. These settings will make the FFB go weak/Suppressed online.

There is a difference in FFB between using my custom settings and then changing back to default. The FFB changes with changing camera settings. If you change the angle setting on mine to 0.00 that changes it again, quite drastically. Then if you add another custom camera setting say for the cockpit it makes the FFB act a little strange until you just use 1 custom camera setting.

anyway back to the test. I booted up the ps4, wheel calibrated and i left it on the default 4 flashes and loaded the game. Went into TT using Mercedes at Austria using the default/balanced setup, just to get a feel for how it was. after 5 laps i backed out to main menu and then i duplicated my FFB settings, enabled it and then went back to Austria TT just to try it. To my surprise the FFB felt a little better just for duplicating my FFB setup. I didnt delete my old one i just left it there and enabled the new one.

Backed out again to the main menu and left the FFB alone this time and changed the camera settings back to default for all of them. Went back to TT in Austria and wow, what a difference. FFB was more positive, i could get on the gas a lot quicker and brakes felt better. I beat my TT lap time. I then tried my custom setup and the FFB felt the same!

I tried a few tracks using default setup then my custom one, everything was working fine. I got my friend to follow the steps i had taken and the FFB was working correct for him too. We then went online. I had one report code throughout the offline test and 1 online race, it stayed the same racing and in menus. MDGP-AVMS-ABDJ-HBEG.

Unranked lobby, official cars, equal performance. 5 lappers. I used the mercedes to start with we went to Austria. Default setup first, that felt fine, in fact in felt like the silverstone test i did for you a few weeks back, you could feel tyres turning on, it felt fantastic! for both of us. We then tried custom setup at Austria that behaved the same it felt amazing!!

We carried on last night just doing 5 lappers online, Germany, Bahrain, Australia, Spa. First using default setups, then using our own. The FFB was great and working how you should expect. We tried using different cars aswell for testing sake, they all worked correctly.

So my conclusion for this is that resetting your camera settings to default more or less gets rid of the weak ffb online. I cannot believe the difference.

1 problem i did have along the way. I went into FFB menu and deleted my old FFB setting, the one i had duplicated from. Went into TT to test it and the FFB felt a little off so I had to make my old FFB setup and leave it. It seems for me it feels better using a duplicated FFB rather than deleting one. But after reading what @Hygradeb says above, i presume he means his FFB profiles hes deleting. His feels better if he deletes everything and makes his FFB setup fresh. I may try that myself and see if that is the same for me rather than duplicating.

Using default camera settings has cured the problem for me and my friend. Ill be using it from now on, the only reason i changed them is i couldnt get along with default camera when game first came out so i put my custom camera settings on which i was using on the last game F1 2018, they worked okay on there and they worked okay on F1 2019 when it first came out. Im reverting back to using default camera settings now.

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@YesItsReallyMe the profile I deleted was my custom wheel setups for F2 using both my F1 add-on & the t300 PS4 wheel.

So the CM only tested the card in there default when making the game.. that's typical.

So @Hoo You guys need to rethink what you feel should or is happening in the game. You did say FFB is not affected by the camera I wonder what other things is effecting other things.

Well 1 fault semi fix 99 problems to go..lol😅😂🤣.

Another thing why do we have to reset our wheel back to 360 each time why don't the game set the wheel to the game settings?

What other settings don't the wheel keep?

 

What's the default graphics settings?

I changed mine I want to set it back incase that also affect how the game drives. There no rest to default in that option.

Edited by Hygradeb

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@Hygradeb I've tried your way. I backed my save game up on usb first before changing anything. I deleted all the FFB custom setup I had then made it from fresh again. Rebooted game and it felt okay, but then I tried duplicating it and enabling it and that felt even better. It's better for me if I duplicate.

@Hoo you really need to read the last 4 or 5 replies in this thread. We've made some progress. 

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