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Our Wheel Settings - Direct from the Car Handling Team

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Hi all,

While DiRT Rally is yours to tinker with we don’t want to encourage modifying the force feedback effectsetup.xml and devicesetup.xml files as we've noticed some users are.

Modifying the wheel to use parameters defined for the controller (pad) or replacing incompatible previous game FFB files are likely to compromise your experience of the game. It’s not how the game is made to be played and we can’t offer any support for the consequences of modifying this data and how it will affect the game. 

We are totally open to feedback and if you feel that the FFB is not behaving how you would like you need to talk to us about it, together we can make DiRT Rally better for everyone.

For now the team has collated their recommended steering wheel settings for the officially supported wheels, Try these out and let us know what you think below, we're happy to work with you all on getting this right but we would advise against the modification to the xml files we've seen floating around the web.

All Wheels - Recommend using 200 – 540 degree (however 270-400 is the sweet spot)

Vibration & Feedback Settings (Recommended)


Advanced Wheel Settings (Recommended)

 

Logitech G25 & G27

Logitech Profiler Version 5.10.127

Logitech Driver Version 5.10.127

Logitech Profiler Settings

Options -> Global Device Settings


Windows Control Panel -> Game Controllers -> Logitech G25/G27 -> Properties -> Logitech G25/G27 Racing Wheel Properties -> Settings


Fanatec Clubsport Base v1 & v2

Driver Version : 205 (BETA)

Firmware version: 53

Windows Control Panel -> Game Controllers

Note: Connect the Fanatec Pedals via USB


Windows Control Panel -> Game Controllers -> ClubSport Wheel -> Properties -> Settings


Fanatec Clubsport Base Device Tuning Menu

SEN (Sensitivity): SEN default: OFF

FF (Force Feedback): FF default: 100

SHO (Shock): SHO default: 100

ABS default: OFF

LIN (Linearity): LIN default: OFF

DEA (Deadzone): DEA default: OFF

DRI (Drift mode): DRI default: OFF

FOR (force): FOR default: 100

SPR (spring): SPR default: 100

DPR (damper): DPR default: 100

We recommend this official Fanatec Clubsport Wheel setup video: 

https://youtu.be/cMP-CDJVock

Thrustmaster T500 RS/F1 Racing Wheel

Firmware: 43

Driver: 2.8.16.0

Windows Control Panel -> Game Controllers -> Thrustmaster T500 Racing Wheel -> Properties

Thrustmaster T500 RS Control Panel -> Test Input Tab


Thrustmaster T500 RS Control Panel -> Gain Settings Tab


Set the wheel’s ‘Pedal Set Position’ mode (LED red/green) depending on your pedal orientation.


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well I already reduced mines down via the in game software as I put on the other thread But I will try it this way as well. I forgot to list on that thread That I had turned down the strenght of the forces by 50%, so it seems I was on the right track. 

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why so low rotation? why can't we run 900 like every other sim and have the cars determine the proper degree of rotation in games like iracing/ac etc. 270 is so low and twitchy.  Sure can run it higher but still. 

either way these settings aren't going to magically make ffb better in the sim....it's just lacking ffb and detailed ffb to begin with.

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Absolutley agree with your advice regards fiddling with the files, I tried it and it did not make it any better. All back to default now.

The advice on the Fanatec Wheel regarding connecting the pedals via USB -> this is not an option for me, they have to be connected to the base unit... please advise why I have to plug the pedals in via USB, they work perfectly well via the base in DiRT Rally?

I also don't have a firmware 53 for the CSWv2 and the DRI setting work very differently from the v1 base, please advise on this?

I have logged a bug report that the FFB is inverted in the Technical Assistance forum, please review as this is still relevant despite the settings here... unless the pedals being connected to the base is affecting FFB... please advise on this?

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540 rotation is probably the most popular setting as far as I have noticed when talking to players on various rally sim boards (it is exactly what real WRC cars are using). Please keep that in mind.

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Any problems with the Fanatec CSW degrees of steering being set on the wheel instead of the driver? I have 900 in the driver and the SEN set to 400, my understanding is that SEN is degrees of steering. I have 5 profiles on the wheel and all rely on 900 degrees in the windows profile/driver, setting it everytime I change game is too much of a chore, I even forget to change the S_? setting on the wheel, but thankfully you can do that in car.

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Please add more customizability within the game itself if you can!

Many of us sim-racers drive many sims, from rally to road racing games, and having to change global settings for one sim (when we don't for all the others) is not an elegant solution! I know you're working on it, but try to add more in-game.

Also, some descriptions1 in-game of what the options do would be great. What does saturation do? What does a negative linearity mean? Having those descriptions in-game as a tooltip would be very helpful, at least until you change the system to something more in-line with other sims.

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I'm using a Fanatec GT3RS V2 and I'm not happy with the force feedback.
I dont know if it is like this for all wheels, but for this wheel and my hands its not good. I'm using 360 degrees of rotation and the recommended ingame settings for CSW wheels. Biggest problem is when the rear of the car looses traction and starts to rotate around, the wheel gets heavier as I'm turning into the slide, it's a bit hard to explain but it makes correcting the car alot harder. So whenever I'm applying corrective lock the wheel is heavier than turning into a corner normally, the wheel isn't offically supported so it's understanable that it's not ideal.

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Guys. You are recomending 270 degrees in a game aimed for simulation. Seriously?

And the stock FFB is the way to go? Nothing has been mixed up or anything? If this is the case i'm truly disapointed. The stock FFB is lifeless with lacking information. And the wheel forces are fighting back when it shoul do the opposite!

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bogani said:
Guys. You are recomending 270 degrees in a game aimed for simulation. Seriously?

And the stock FFB is the way to go? Nothing has been mixed up or anything? If this is the case i'm truly disapointed. The stock FFB is lifeless with lacking information. And the wheel forces are fighting back when it shoul do the opposite!

We are totally open to feedback and if you feel that the FFB is not behaving how you would like you need to talk to us about it, together we can make DiRT Rally better for everyone.

Can you be more descriptive of how it feels for you @bogani... what wheel you have etc ... it's early access .. so we need to feed back useful info.

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I'm primarily use the Escort MK2 and that actually feels good with 900 degrees and 100 saturation. 540 makes it extremely twitchy around the center of the wheel.

I'm not even sure what saturation actually means. Menus are lacking info. I guess if my wheel driver is set at 900 and saturation at 50 means that I get to use 450 degrees of rotation. Correct?

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I agree with bogani. The FFB is just plain wrong right now. Bumps feel ok, but we need to feel the torque the road is putting on the front wheels through the steering wheel. The steering wheel should want to counter steer itself in a slide. Front wheels should always want to find the direction of travel and we need to feel that through the wheel; including effects of load on the suspension.

Great start though, highly promising. I've not been this excited about a rally game in a long, long time.

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MrPix said:
bogani said:
Guys. You are recomending 270 degrees in a game aimed for simulation. Seriously?

And the stock FFB is the way to go? Nothing has been mixed up or anything? If this is the case i'm truly disapointed. The stock FFB is lifeless with lacking information. And the wheel forces are fighting back when it shoul do the opposite!

We are totally open to feedback and if you feel that the FFB is not behaving how you would like you need to talk to us about it, together we can make DiRT Rally better for everyone.

Can you be more descriptive of how it feels for you @bogani... what wheel you have etc ... it's early access .. so we need to feed back useful info.
I'll try to put words on it when I have some more time :)

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On the steam forums (seems to be getting the devs attention more than here, @justbiglee has asked us to provide info on what wheels we have... I have created a poll to help out: http://forums.codemasters.com/discussion/5830/if-you-have-poor-or-inverted-force-feedback-please-indicate-what-wheel-you-have#latest

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Those T500 settings are dreadful. I hate being negative, but it literally feels like there's a pot of treacle at the other end of the steering column.

Also, I don't feel one should have to set up anything in the wheel profile at all. I run a multitude of sims - Assetto Corsa, Game Stock Car Extreme (which I'm currently league racing in), RBR, I have iRaced in the past, and even run NASCAR Racing 2003 and Grand Prix Legends (!). All of these throw me their best FFB without having to tamper with anything in the profiler.

Effect strength = 100%. The sim can adjust the gain if it's too much
Constant, periodic = 100%
Spring and damper = 0%, because they're fudge values which cloud the natural forces coming from the steering rack.

If DiRT Rally's FFB felt like DiRT 3's, I feel like that'd be a big step in the right direction. DiRT Rally's FFB is lifeless in the centre, gives no feeling of undulations or slight bumps, no weight transfer; and the biggest crime, no self-aligning torque, which makes getting sideways very awkward indeed. If you guys were to try Assetto to check out its FFB, I would gladly fill you in on every setting I have.

I hate to be negative, and I certainly hope I don't come off as bitchy, given that this is only a recommendation. But everything about DiRT Rally is too awesome to be ruined by the FFB as it is now, so I'm passionate about getting it to where it needs to be.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNPfBmLWxx0

This is how basic FFB is supposed to work. 



Vibration strength just creates FFB from impacts. You don't feel anything from your steering wheel when you hit a deer head on IRL (I've tried).

Wheel weight is only OK when you're stationary, as soon as you start moving, all "weight" disappears IRL and you're only left with forces coming from the steering rack. Right now, when enabling wheel weight, it feels like you never get moving and all the forces happen to the car while it's stationary.

Same goes to these settings:



No real car has a centering spring in the steering rack...

Get the basic FFB right, the self aligning torque! And then we can actually see if this actually tries to be a simulation or is it just DiRT 3 in disguise.

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Agreed to the poster above, you're enabling all sorts of unwanted software effects in the wheel settings.
With a thrustmaster wheel, this is the proper setup (where force strength is of course something personal):


Of course, wheel rotation recommended at 270 degrees is also not right. Typical rally cars use 540 degrees, but setting it to 900 or 1080 should work just as well. It should be a personal preference, and not a number prescribed by the game. (don't get me wrong, 270 degrees should also be an option if you prefer F1-like steering in your rally car, but recommending it as the ideal setting is definitely a mistake)

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own996 said:
Agreed to the poster above, you're enabling all sorts of unwanted software effects in the wheel settings.
With a thrustmaster wheel, this is the proper setup (where force strength is of course something personal):


Of course, wheel rotation recommended at 270 degrees is also not right. Typical rally cars use 540 degrees, but setting it to 900 or 1080 should work just as well. It should be a personal preference, and not a number prescribed by the game. (don't get me wrong, 270 degrees should also be an option if you prefer F1-like steering in your rally car, but recommending it as the ideal setting is definitely a mistake)
Yes. Full 900 degrees with the MK2 Escort gives me the best feeling in this game. Switching to other cars are with the same settings gives me more twitchy steering though. Do the cars actually have independent steering ratios or is this caused by the twitchy steering bug someone mentioned before?

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Hate to say,  but the ffb mod at racedepartment is pretty awesome. Actually feel the bumps in the road. 

Codies should employ the guy. 

What he could do in more than the day it took him, is anyone's guess......! 

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xGabe62x said:
Hate to say,  but the ffb mod at racedepartment is pretty awesome. Actually feel the bumps in the road. 

Codies should employ the guy. 

What he could do in more than the day it took him, is anyone's guess......! 
The one by Derinahon? Yep, agreed. There's still no precious SAT, so I think that's something Codies have to sort out. But it still feels a ton more alive, and stuff actually happens in the center when driving straight! That factor alone makes me happy.

Sorry @justbiglee , I know you don't want us messing with that .xml, but I can safely say that the one by Derinahon on RaceDepartment has improved the game tenfold and I'm having a bunch more fun with it now.

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I'll throw in two cents and say that having no FFB on-center, no self aligning torque at all, and a 270-degree recommended rotation will definitely not meet most peoples' expectations for a driving simulator.

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I agree ffb is broken atleast with my g25.

Btw. where is that racedepartment ffb mod? Cant find it. :(
Edit: Found it http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/ffb-tweak-no-void.104688/

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Havent played DR with my G27 yet, but all the fake forces in the Logitech panel should be left at 0% like @Tliivo says, and the 'car handling team' really should not recommend them.

Also, cmon, find out what the real steering lock is for the cars you "simulate" and implement that (both physics and the animations), just like Assetto Corsa does.

Prove to me that you're making a real sim, and that you'll listen to the community like you say  you will.

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