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So I have been a pad player all my life Im 28 and have F1 games all way back to F1 97!

Recenty I thought I would for a wheel and bought the Hori Apex Wheel. I have struggled to find a setting with this wheel that I can be consistant with I have had to go from 95 to 82 difficulty wise to be in range of team mate.

I have tried all of their sensitivity settings but found one that gives me half a chance but every lap the car feels different. Did a 30 lap run in hungary full fuel and it was very frustrating car doesnt feel stuck to the road atall and I have clocked 500 or so laps with the wheel so far.

Now I am not naive the wheel has no ffb just a rumble feedback which is similar to the pad when you hit bumps or go over tbe racing line but I expected the steering part to be less arcadey I guess. Car feels like it weights nothing.

Would any of these issues be better with a T150 or TMX?

The wheel has a steering mode which inside sim racing says is much better but this feature doesnt work on the PC version for whatever reason.

I am on the 2018 edition cant jusifty the price of the new one going by all your feedback 😂

Edited by AdamFreeman
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I do not own a Hori Racing Wheel, so i do not know how it feels, but one of my mates owns a Thrustmaster T80, which does not have any FFB so it might feel the closest to the Hori i guess and if it does:

"I know the pain".

 

I personally own a Thrustmaster T150 as well as a T300 and the T150, which is basically the same as the TMX, is quite good on FFB, though with the T300 you will instantly feel a improvement on the T150 as it clips far less and has a stronger FFB with the added benefit of a ecosystem that allows for mods and new steering rims to be applied.

 

Either way, if you decide to go even one tier higher, to the Fanatec products, you will feel a night and day difference in detail immediately, espeially if you use the Direct Drive wheel with the Podium accessories.

 

TLDR: T150 / TMX is a great starting point with "proper FFB", unless you are willing to pay a little bit more of course as the T300 is definitely better overall with a nice upgrade ecosystem, but with Fanatec you'll reach the best that is available on consoles.

 

It is all a matter of how much you want to pay.

 

If you got 300+ bucks laying around, go for the T300, and if you are in the top 1% - 5% of the economic foodchain, go for Fanatecs Direct Drive Wheel and have yourself a nice treat.

 

 

 

 

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I would think that going from game pad to wheel will be a huge transitional difference.  Where once you used your fingers and forearm muscles to control the cars, you now do so via your arms and feet. You certainly can't expect a magical transition, as what is called "mental proprioception"  has to get adjusted to the new speed inputs from your arms and feet.  My advise is to find a comfortable setting, not a magical setting, and give it time, possibly a week to a month to see your speed transiton to d-pad normal.   Then after you've become expert with the wheel, try your skills at the d-pad and see the difference. And all this from a guy who have never played with a wheel - LOL - but still try it. 

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2 hours ago, AdamFreeman said:

So I have been a pad player all my life Im 28 and have F1 games all way back to F1 97!

Recenty I thought I would for a wheel and bought the Hori Apex Wheel. I have struggled to find a setting with this wheel that I can be consistant with I have had to go from 95 to 82 difficulty wise to be in range of team mate.

I have tried all of their sensitivity settings but found one that gives me half a chance but every lap the car feels different. Did a 30 lap run in hungary full fuel and it was very frustrating car doesnt feel stuck to the road atall and I have clocked 500 or so laps with the wheel so far.

Now I am not naive the wheel has no ffb just a rumble feedback which is similar to the pad when you hit bumps or go over tbe racing line but I expected the steering part to be less arcadey I guess. Car feels like it weights nothing.

Would any of these issues be better with a T150 or TMX?

The wheel has a steering mode which inside sim racing says is much better but this feature doesnt work on the PC version for whatever reason.

Hi

If you not noticed wheel player are have lots off problems and we have stated many times that pad user have it easier than wheel user.

You moving from pad to a wheel is a prime example that pad is easier to use and has better feedback than a wheel.

I can't say how good your wheel is I have a T300 setup.

1st thing try keep everything default with view and wheel settings.

We have found this give you best feedback if you change it the car feels like ****.

Next what assist do you use?

If you use none like me you have to take time with gas and break just like in real life... you cannot floor it.

Since you been playing so long you should know all your braking points etc. Just be easy on the gas.

If You feel the wheel is light try increase damper & remove under steer effect.

What is funny to me I tried pad for a few weeks & hated it

The wheel was my best move and I may be slow but I use no assist & cockpit view & in some races I not that far behind people with full assist and been playing this game over 4 years.

I started this Year.

Take u time you will get back To your normally

 

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Thanks for the replies guys much appreciated I have no assists but I never did with the pad but I do understand where wheel users were coming from now. Wth a pad in a session you pretty much know what your doing where so far the wheel is a much bigger learning curve so there is definetly hidden assistance for pad users and this fake pad experience has kind of made the wheel experience poorer if that makes sense.

But it could be just a ****** wheel the steering mode is probably whats needed but its not functional on pad. Going to return it and pay the extra 55 quid for a tmx. I play full sessions and do the full grand prix weekend and I do not atal mind being slower but I do mind not feeling in contr of my car. Feels a bit too need foe speedy!

 

 

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17 hours ago, TheEmpireWasRight said:

 

Either way, if you decide to go even one tier higher, to the Fanatec products, you will feel a night and day difference in detail immediately, espeially if you use the Direct Drive wheel with the Podium accessories.

 

 

 

Fanatec Clubsport is very very good and not as much as Direct Drive.

Either way, FFB is a must and there are always good used used wheels and pedals being sold on Ebay and other forums.

It is an expensive hobby, but a good set could last the better part of a decade. 

The FFB in this game is sub par compared to other console titles, but it is serviceable. 

IMO the stronger the wheel, the more longevity you will have. A weaker wheel running at 100 FFB or higher will really stress the parts over time.  I don't have a direct drive, but that is a huge benefit. With the Clubsport, 45 FFB works well.

Pedals are maybe more important than the actual wheel.  

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15 hours ago, AdamFreeman said:

Thanks for the replies guys much appreciated I have no assists but I never did with the pad but I do understand where wheel users were coming from now. Wth a pad in a session you pretty much know what your doing where so far the wheel is a much bigger learning curve so there is definetly hidden assistance for pad users and this fake pad experience has kind of made the wheel experience poorer if that makes sense.

But it could be just a ****** wheel the steering mode is probably whats needed but its not functional on pad. Going to return it and pay the extra 55 quid for a tmx. I play full sessions and do the full grand prix weekend and I do not atal mind being slower but I do mind not feeling in contr of my car. Feels a bit too need foe speedy!

 

 

Watch some actual driving/racing videos online.  With a wheel, you have to drive like you would in a real car, more or less.  It is all weight transfer.  The further you turn the wheel, the less grip you have for braking or accelerating.  As you unwind the wheel from the apex, your throttle foot slowly increases in unison.

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A racing wheel without FFB is like a toasted cheese sandwich without the melted cheese. You get the idea of how good it MIGHT be without actually experiencing the full flavor. Congrats for making the step towards realism, but it's not supposed to be sacrifice but a whole new world of realism and FUN. It's the fun factor that drives most of us I believe and while we might complain we can't keep up with all the assists and cheats given to pad users we'd NEVER go back to one. I first got a wheel (G29) half way through Gran Turismo 6. Totally blew my mind, can't believe I wasted so many years without one before. I'm totally confident once you make the leap to a decent FFB wheel the big grin on your race will become a permanent fixture!

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11 minutes ago, sloppysmusic said:

A racing wheel without FFB is like a toasted cheese sandwich without the melted cheese. You get the idea of how good it MIGHT be without actually experiencing the full flavor. Congrats for making the step towards realism, but it's not supposed to be sacrifice but a whole new world of realism and FUN. It's the fun factor that drives most of us I believe and while we might complain we can't keep up with all the assists and cheats given to pad users we'd NEVER go back to one. I first got a wheel (G29) half way through Gran Turismo 6. Totally blew my mind, can't believe I wasted so many years without one before. I'm totally confident once you make the leap to a decent FFB wheel the big grin on your race will become a permanent fixture!

took the Hori back today and walked out with a G920 😄 not used it yet but I got the bug already!

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Had an hour around hungary as this was my last venue with the Hori wheel in my career and the wheel is everything I was hoping for when I pictured ditching the pad. The force feedback is immense, was tiring going from gentle vibrations on the hori wheel so I halved the FFB to 50 and the other effects to 30 apart from wheel damper to 0.

 

I do not know what upgrade level the willaims in time trial is but I was half a second quicker than my Hori wheel best from career with some decent upgraded applied and its only been one session. More so than anything though is the feel of the car, the old wheel was ajoke in comparison. I feel in total control of the car (mostly) and the snaps when you catch them feel epic. Wheel forever now 😄

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6 hours ago, AdamFreeman said:

Had an hour around hungary as this was my last venue with the Hori wheel in my career and the wheel is everything I was hoping for when I pictured ditching the pad. The force feedback is immense, was tiring going from gentle vibrations on the hori wheel so I halved the FFB to 50 and the other effects to 30 apart from wheel damper to 0.

 

I do not know what upgrade level the willaims in time trial is but I was half a second quicker than my Hori wheel best from career with some decent upgraded applied and its only been one session. More so than anything though is the feel of the car, the old wheel was ajoke in comparison. I feel in total control of the car (mostly) and the snaps when you catch them feel epic. Wheel forever now 😄

Night and day huh? 

Now go get PCars 2 and Assetto Corsa if you're on console and you'll get much better FFB and feel. Dirt Rally 2.0 is really good, too.lol

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I am on PC. I probsbly will get Project cars 2 at some point I had the first one on the xbox one before I sold it and went gaming PC.

 

I was torn betwwen G920 and the Thrustmaster TMX went with the G920 pedals are much better I am told.

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18 minutes ago, AdamFreeman said:

I am on PC.

Then you got the biggest selection of racing games and simulators + all mods of the eorld at your disposal.

 

#PcMasterRace 

 

Have fun! 🙂

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8 hours ago, AdamFreeman said:

I am on PC. I probsbly will get Project cars 2 at some point I had the first one on the xbox one before I sold it and went gaming PC.

 

I was torn betwwen G920 and the Thrustmaster TMX went with the G920 pedals are much better I am told.

Pedals are really important, sounds like you made a great choice.    

PC gives you the absolute best options. RFactor series, Assetto, iRacing, PCars 2, etc etc.  I'm hoping to go back to PC in the next 6 months. 

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Well I did a race without much practise as I had already done p1 p2 p3 and qualy so apart from an hour in time trial I did 65 laps of a 70 lap race before I span off and crashed. 

Car seemed to understeer a fair bit in the slow corners when I was in clean air could this be sensivity settings. I have the wheel at default logitech settings at the moment. Was fine through mid to high speed corners. 

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9 hours ago, AdamFreeman said:

I am on PC. I probsbly will get Project cars 2 at some point I had the first one on the xbox one before I sold it and went gaming PC.

 

I was torn betwwen G920 and the Thrustmaster TMX went with the G920 pedals are much better I am told.

Pedals ARE good on the Logitechs except brake is a little meh. You can mess around with them yourself if you want to improve them more. Plenty of advice around. I swapped the brake for clutch pedal as don't use the clutch, added a piece of packing foam behind it to add resistance and learned left foot braking. Another night and day improvement for me.. I went from zero ABS max brake pressure 70 to 100 on the tracks that needed it... With the whole pedal travel to use its so much easier not to lock up. 

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First thing I did was change break  to clutch as the original brake is very stiff!

What settings do you use from the logitech profiles. I have changed rotation to 360 and springs to zero. Wondering if low speed corner over steer is a sensitivity easy. Was have to use full lock to get around turn 2 at hungary at logitech default sensitivity.

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15 hours ago, AdamFreeman said:

First thing I did was change break  to clutch as the original brake is very stiff!

What settings do you use from the logitech profiles. I have changed rotation to 360 and springs to zero. Wondering if low speed corner over steer is a sensitivity easy. Was have to use full lock to get around turn 2 at hungary at logitech default sensitivity.

I used rotation 475 which I found mirrored the drivers hands too and felt very accurate. Also works great in project cars 2. Works great for me I can finally get round Monaco without crossing hands over! 

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I will try more rotation I thought 360 was 1:1 with the in wheel game?

I got maybe add saturation as I have it on default 0.

 

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So i upped the sensitivity from 50 to 75 in logitech settings and now the car seems to be matching me better yet the wheel ingame is 5 or so degrees different more lock than me. At sensivity 45 at 360 rotation theres a wheel match but the car doesnt feel right.

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