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Logitech G29 Brake Pedal Deadzone

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Hello,

I'm having troubles with my G29 brake pedal and yet I haven't found the solution. The problem is that the pedal reaches 100% when pressed in half, like there was some kind of deadzone at the end. But there is no deadzone at all. No matter what game, even re-installing the drivers didn't help. I've this problem since the beginning (I bought the wheel from second hand) and at first I thought it's normal, but it's not. Like it's very difficult to drive without ABS as I have to be extremely precise on the brakes. The "range" of the pedal is half as short as it should be. Is there anything I can do? And sorry for bad English.

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There should be a rubber stopper in there to limit the pedal travel. The reading you get is probably correct but without the stopper there is a lot of extra pedal travel with the brake already fully on.

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1 hour ago, steviejay69 said:

There should be a rubber stopper in there to limit the pedal travel. The reading you get is probably correct but without the stopper there is a lot of extra pedal travel with the brake already fully on.

That's right. I've already removed the black rubber but it didn't change a thing. But was the brake pedal supposed to reach maximum when it hits the rubber? From what I know from other G29 owners the pedal should reach 100% when it's actually pressed fully to the bottom.

Edited by MateLeLe120

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Taking out the rubber doesn't change a thing. The software integrated in the brake pedal is different to the clutch and accelerator. (Its programmed like for "a realistic feel")

With or without the rubber, when you start to brake, you will reach 100 % brake application at ~70/80% of your brake pedal. 

I have a G29, I have my clutch as my brake and my brake as my clutch. I love it like that. (Without assists asuel).

Give it a try. 

  • Agree 1

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Ok, so it's supposed to work in that way, thanks. I know that taking this rubber out doesn't change anything, but I just wanted to whether the brake pedal is supposed to work in that way or not. I actually got used to this and recently I messed up something with the drivers and now the clutch pedal works 0-1. But I'll get over it.

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@zon1bzh Your G29's brake pedal might be broken, because it is exactly the same set of pedals as the G25/G27 set came with, just with an rubber stopper added in the brake pedal. The brake works on a potentiomitor just like the accelerator and the clutch do, and there is no programed trickery going on to make the pedal reach 100% in software when the pedal is only at 70/80% of travel.

What you may find however, is that you will need to "calibrate" the pedals manually by depressing them fully to 100% of travel before you race when you first plug in the wheel. This is because the pedals do not self calibrate like the wheel does. If you fail to do this step, the pedals will reach 100% input when the pedals are only pressed a little. Its also the same for Trustmaster Pedals, as well as fanatec pedals. It isnt an issue when it comes to the accelerator or clutch, as you normally press them fully before a race starts. But if you dont depress the brake pedal to 100% of its travel, then as soon as you need the brakes; it will go right to 100% of travel as soon as it is used. And will have a shorter throw until it is pressed fully at some point.

@MateLeLe120 Not sure if your issue is the same, but first try depressing the pedals fully as soon as the wheel has self calibrated.

Just for referance, I have a G27, a G920 (the xbox version of the G29), and a Thrustmaster T300 RS-GT with T3PA pro pedals.

A second bit of advice, to use the G29/G920 pedals fully with the rupper stop still in the brake pedal. They at least need to be pressed up to a immovable surface (but be careful not to trap the cable for the pedals), or secured in a wheel stand/cockpit of some type. And you need to be in a seat that wont move. If you can do those two things, that rubber stop can be a big help in stoping you from locking up when not using ABS.

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1 hour ago, MateLeLe120 said:

Ok, so it's supposed to work in that way, thanks. I know that taking this rubber out doesn't change anything, but I just wanted to whether the brake pedal is supposed to work in that way or not. I actually got used to this and recently I messed up something with the drivers and now the clutch pedal works 0-1. But I'll get over it.

Depends if you left foot brake or not. You can swap the springs in the pedals over then you get the full travel. But it's not practical to swap them back for three pedal cars. 

The clutch doesn't sound good, so remove with Geek uninstaller and reboot then reinstall the drivers. That will possibly prove if it is a software issue, but they're fairly easy to open up and clean or replace the pots.

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Quote

@MateLeLe120 Not sure if your issue is the same, but first try depressing the pedals fully as soon as the wheel has self calibrated.

What do you mean by that? While the wheel is self calibrating I should press the brake fully on and then depress when it's done? Sorry I'm lost. And is the word "depress" an opposite to word "press"? XD Sry for my english. 

As I mentioned before, this issue has been existent since the first plug.

Quote

The clutch doesn't sound good, so remove with Geek uninstaller and reboot then reinstall the drivers. That will possibly prove if it is a software issue, but they're fairly easy to open up and clean or replace the pots.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's about drivers 'cause it worked normally until I messed something with calibration in Control Panel (trying to resolve the problem with brakes).

Edited by MateLeLe120

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12 hours ago, Ialyrn said:

@zon1bzh Your G29's brake pedal might be broken, because it is exactly the same set of pedals as the G25/G27 set came with, just with an rubber stopper added in the brake pedal. The brake works on a potentiomitor just like the accelerator and the clutch do, and there is no programed trickery going on to make the pedal reach 100% in software when the pedal is only at 70/80% of travel.

What you may find however, is that you will need to "calibrate" the pedals manually by depressing them fully to 100% of travel before you race when you first plug in the wheel. This is because the pedals do not self calibrate like the wheel does. If you fail to do this step, the pedals will reach 100% input when the pedals are only pressed a little. Its also the same for Trustmaster Pedals, as well as fanatec pedals. It isnt an issue when it comes to the accelerator or clutch, as you normally press them fully before a race starts. But if you dont depress the brake pedal to 100% of its travel, then as soon as you need the brakes; it will go right to 100% of travel as soon as it is used. And will have a shorter throw until it is pressed fully at some point.

@MateLeLe120 Not sure if your issue is the same, but first try depressing the pedals fully as soon as the wheel has self calibrated.

Just for referance, I have a G27, a G920 (the xbox version of the G29), and a Thrustmaster T300 RS-GT with T3PA pro pedals.

 

I went on F1 2019,  put my brake as my g29 brake pedal, I looked in settings (calibration), pressed the brake, 

So at ~85% the brake is linear, after that its non linear (when we hit the rubber),its quicker to hit 100% but a bit less accurate. 

You are right. 

I got my words wrong in the previous post.

Btw, brake pedal is fine. (1 month wheel)

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1 hour ago, MateLeLe120 said:

By the way, the wheel should be set to PS3 or PS4 mode?

PS3 mode is generally defined as PC compatibility mode. 

I'm going to stick my neck out and say why (someone with more console knowledge feel free to correct me) the console compatibility is by licence. When the device is connected there is a hardware handshake to negotiate (to validate the licence). To work with PC that handshake must be either met or bypassed. PS3 licensing is probably cheaper due to the limited number of new controllers being introduced on that platform as it's effectively now legacy. So Sony sell the manufacturer the cheaper licence, handshake code is met in firmware.

On PC you can see the device has two hardware IDs - one that is PS4 mode (no driver available or works) and one that is PS3 mode (with signed driver that works, and probably emulates a PS3 being connected at some point in the handshake).

PS4 licensing would be more expensive (until PS5 comes out).

Same with XBox360/XB1 - there are some wheels that do not work with PC, just console because the wheel manufacturer has not thought the additional sales was worth the licensing cost for emulating the console for PC use.

Conversely, some wheels are PC only. Not many, but some.

Edited by steviejay69

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On 2/21/2020 at 11:20 AM, MateLeLe120 said:

What do you mean by that? While the wheel is self calibrating I should press the brake fully on and then depress when it's done? Sorry I'm lost. And is the word "depress" an opposite to word "press"? XD Sry for my english. 

Sorry, it should have said "pressing". I wrote it out on my phone, and I have a bad habit of not proof reading to make sure predictive text hasnt taken over.

The proceedure when first using your wheel at any play session, should be to plug the wheel in. Allow it to calibrate the wheel, which is where it spins on its own. After it has done that, press the accelerator, brake pedal and clutch to their absolute maximum before doing any racing. As stated in my last post, the pedals do not calibrate on their own. They only calibrate when you press them to their to their 100% maximum amount of travel. If you do not do this, especially with the brake. They will go right to 100% of travel in software, even if you have only pressed on the pedal a little bit.

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On 2/21/2020 at 11:20 AM, MateLeLe120 said:

What do you mean by that? While the wheel is self calibrating I should press the brake fully on and then depress when it's done? Sorry I'm lost. And is the word "depress" an opposite to word "press"? XD Sry for my english. 

Depress = Press, yeah English is idiosyncratic. Has a de- which is usually to undo. Inflate opp. deflate. De- replaces an in- in the opposite, usually un- for negative or reverse.

Inflammable = Flammable means combustible, like gasoline / petrol. Non-flammable, but you don't see Non-inflammable often if at all.

Depression = an illness, but you can't have Pression.

Fun. I believe it's because we've been invaded / conquered / infiltrated more times than most nations. Rule Britannia.

 

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