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FFB- T300 and Various Wheels

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8 minutes ago, YesItsReallyMe said:

@steviejay69 would this effect the PS4 in the same way or is it just a PC specific thing? Thanks

I believe this is only supposed to affect PC drivers in this way (the HW ID of the wheelbases are different on console). But it is always advisable to connect your wheel to a PC via USB and appropriate driver to obtain firmware updates (that often apply to consoles, e.g. recognising new rims or what type of base it appears as on console). Please remember to follow the standard operating procedure (SOP) for updating firmware (e.g. Thrustmaster wheelbases need to be in PS3 mode on PC)

Edited by steviejay69

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1 hour ago, Canry said:

Ok, thank you! I tried all that, but it still doesn't work...

I uninstalled PC2 via Steam, rebooted, used Geek to uninstall the drivers, rebooted, had the wheel unplugged, installed the drivers again and plugged the wheel back in when I was asked to do so. Then I rebooted the Computer again and launched F1. No FFB still.

Thank you for your effort! Any other ideas?

Some joy can be had by verifying Steam game files (even if you've checked previously) and sometimes either backing up or deleting then restoring or reinstalling the game can work. Also, updating Windows version can sometimes clean up cruft in the runtimes. I would advise either 1903 or 1909 with the latest GPU drivers, the game will warn you if the drivers are too old (but not the OS it would seem).

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3 minutes ago, steviejay69 said:

I believe this is only supposed to affect PC drivers in this way (the HW ID of the wheelbases are different on console). But it is always advisable to connect your wheel to a PC via USB and appropriate driver to obtain firmware updates (that often apply to consoles, e.g. recognising new rims or what type of base it appears as on console).

@steviejay69 thank you for the info. I'm up to date on firmware and drivers.

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@BarryBL I've experienced a new symptom of this issue. When I last played on Thursday everything was okay, I'd been doing career so FFB was working as expected along with setups. Didn't touch the PS4 or game on Friday at all. Came to play Saturday evening, turned on the PS4 loaded up went to TT at France and well the ffb wasn't working in TT it was weak like how it goes online, shut game down reloaded still the same. So reset my cameras to default and shut the game down and rebuilt the database on PS4.

Loaded game back up after the rebuild still the same hardly any ffb in TT, and the car was spinning off the track in corners and couldn't get the gas down. No grip felt like the car wasn't connected to the track or wheel. No setups worked not even default ones. Put my cameras settings on in the session, ffb still felt same. So made a new ffb setting as I described the other day, still not working. So went back into pause menu deleted that new ffb setup I'd just made then enabled my usual one, tried that and the ffb came back like a switch being flicked. Had no further problems last night. Ran a co-op with a friend using league mode and it was fine. 

Sometimes if I miss a day of playing or play another game like gt sport and then go back to F1 this is what happens, it messes everything up like how the game plays, settings how ffb works and setups etc.

Anyway when I got the ffb to work by deleting and enabling in the ffb menu I wrote the report code down from the TT session I was in.

KTKC-XPTR-XHPJ-HBEG

Why is it fine one day and the next just unplayable in any mode. It can do this after a patch sometimes. But I've got into the habit of rebuilding database on PS4 after every patch.

Something else to add, I quit the game last night after coop and saved my game save and ghost laps to a usb stick, just out of curiosity I went back on game into TT just to try it. FFB was stronger after saving my game files to a usb stick!? 😶 

Edit....

So I turned on PS4 on Sunday afternoon. And went to TT. Not touched it since last night and.... FFB wasn't working again, like yesterday. Had to rest cameras shut game down and rebuild database and do the above method again to get it working. Which took best part of an hour.

I've sent you a DM Barry. Please check your inbox. It's not letting me post a link here for some reason. Thanks.

 

Edited by YesItsReallyMe
Additional info

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34 minutes ago, steviejay69 said:

Some joy can be had by verifying Steam game files (even if you've checked previously) and sometimes either backing up or deleting then restoring or reinstalling the game can work. Also, updating Windows version can sometimes clean up cruft in the runtimes. I would advise either 1903 or 1909 with the latest GPU drivers, the game will warn you if the drivers are too old (but not the OS it would seem).

Alright, I uninstalled F1, rebooted and am now downloading the game again. I will keep you updated.

I am running on the newest GPU Drivers and my OS is up to date aswell.

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2 hours ago, Canry said:

Alright, I uninstalled F1, rebooted and am now downloading the game again. I will keep you updated.

I am running on the newest GPU Drivers and my OS is up to date aswell.

It still does not work... But either way: this is silly... Why shouldn't it work in F1?

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3 hours ago, Canry said:

It still does not work... But either way: this is silly... Why shouldn't it work in F1?

No idea. Post a dxdiag and maybe there is some update for your hardware that is throwing things off.

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9 minutes ago, steviejay69 said:

No idea. Post a dxdiag and maybe there is some update for your hardware that is throwing things off.

Alright, here you go! And once again: thank you very much!

DxDiag.txt

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4 minutes ago, steviejay69 said:

Z370 Tomahawk, no?

That's correct

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I believe PCARS2 somehow modifies the Windows registry, but I was unable to find the thread about what those registry keys were... I don't know how good of a job the installer does in terms of modified registry keys 😕 

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2 minutes ago, Canry said:

That's correct

Updated UEFI 1.9

Your audio is using UAD (DCH) drivers. F1 2017 is DX11 not sure how backward compatible they actually are.

There are some older HDA drivers. You must uninstall the UAD driver fully (use Geek) and reboot (recommend without Internet) and install the HDA driver.

Also, the newer games don't always like RGB software, so I'm going to flag the HyperX and ROCCAT hardware / software combos. I can only advise you update both (to make sure you get any firmware) and then uninstall the drivers with Geek. They should work as basic mice and keyboards etc. without software. Let me know if you have any essential software (sometimes RGB cooler blocks require the software to operate).

I'm going to question the use of Cheat Engine and RStudio. Pretty much all your games are crashing, Fortnite, Dirt Rally (and Steam itself), not just F1 15, 17 & PCARS.

Just now, UP100 said:

I believe PCARS2 somehow modifies the Windows registry, but I was unable to find the thread about what those registry keys were... I don't know how good of a job the installer does in terms of modified registry keys 😕 

There is a Logitech uninstaller for drivers, but we have Thrustmaster wheel here. Unfortunately, there is only Geek. I think I found a fragment that would overwrite the Logitech driver with the original pre-PCARS values but I think it is only a Logitech fix.

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26 minutes ago, steviejay69 said:

Updated UEFI 1.9

Your audio is using UAD (DCH) drivers. F1 2017 is DX11 not sure how backward compatible they actually are.

There are some older HDA drivers. You must uninstall the UAD driver fully (use Geek) and reboot (recommend without Internet) and install the HDA driver.

Also, the newer games don't always like RGB software, so I'm going to flag the HyperX and ROCCAT hardware / software combos. I can only advise you update both (to make sure you get any firmware) and then uninstall the drivers with Geek. They should work as basic mice and keyboards etc. without software. Let me know if you have any essential software (sometimes RGB cooler blocks require the software to operate).

I'm going to question the use of Cheat Engine and RStudio. Pretty much all your games are crashing, Fortnite, Dirt Rally (and Steam itself), not just F1 15, 17 & PCARS.

There is a Logitech uninstaller for drivers, but we have Thrustmaster wheel here. Unfortunately, there is only Geek. I think I found a fragment that would overwrite the Logitech driver with the original pre-PCARS values but I think it is only a Logitech fix.

Ok, so my To-Do:

1. Update Motherboard

2. Deinstall Audio Drivers via Geek (I see the "Realtek Audio Console" under the Windows Apps and the "Realtek High Definition Audio Driver" under the Desktop Apps, which one or both?)

3. Deinstall the HyperX and ROCCAT Software (I can find the ROCCAT Software but I dont see anything from HyperX)

4. Cheat Engine is uninstalled, I need RStudio for University, but it only runs on an USB Stick which is now unplugged.

5. No RGB cooler blocks or something like this. I think my Motherboard has LEDs as well as my mouse (Roccat kone Aimo) and keyboard (hyperx alloy elite rgb)

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1 minute ago, Canry said:

Ok, so my To-Do:

1. Update Motherboard

2. Deinstall Audio Drivers via Geek (I see the "Realtek Audio Console" under the Windows Apps and the "Realtek High Definition Audio Driver" under the Desktop Apps, which one or both?)

3. Deinstall the HyperX and ROCCAT Software (I can find the ROCCAT Software but I dont see anything from HyperX)

4. Cheat Engine is uninstalled, I need RStudio for University, but it only runs on an USB Stick which is now unplugged.

5. No RGB cooler blocks or something like this. I think my Motherboard has LEDs as well as my mouse (Roccat kone Aimo) and keyboard (hyperx alloy elite rgb)

2. If you remove the UAD drivers, Realtek Audio Console should uninstall. Realtek (R) Audio will be replaced with Realtek High Definition Audio Driver in Device Manager.

The Programs and Features entry will be the same, but yeah doing it with Geek will remove it via Programs and Features (or whatever the German equivalent is).

5. Good. Update the Roccat and HyperX software (test in settings for any firmware, etc.) then remove it (sounds daft, but yeah).

Long shot (never seen it return anything yet) but Samsung Magician and check for drive firmware and I think the Crucial equivalent is Crucial Storage Executive.

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Japan 50% , PS4 pro, Fanatec DD

in preparation, the pace was phenomenal. (GP mode and alone in the online lobby)

in the league run like on ice. as if the wheels have hardly any contact with the road

why is that?

@BarryBL

should i send you my whole league race?

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HI everyone,

I'm merging topic on this as we have a T300 thread.

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On 2/7/2020 at 8:45 AM, BarryBL said:

Hi all,

To replicate so we can try and identify the issue, we need exact settings in detail. 

Maybe posting a video leading up to it might save everyone answering 20 questions from myself. Were trying to find this and understand the exact circumstances in which this happens. 

@BarryBL video link I sent to your inbox It won't let me post it in here for some reason. Just making sure you see it. 👍

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20 hours ago, steviejay69 said:

2. If you remove the UAD drivers, Realtek Audio Console should uninstall. Realtek (R) Audio will be replaced with Realtek High Definition Audio Driver in Device Manager.

The Programs and Features entry will be the same, but yeah doing it with Geek will remove it via Programs and Features (or whatever the German equivalent is).

5. Good. Update the Roccat and HyperX software (test in settings for any firmware, etc.) then remove it (sounds daft, but yeah).

Long shot (never seen it return anything yet) but Samsung Magician and check for drive firmware and I think the Crucial equivalent is Crucial Storage Executive.

Ok, I haven't updated my BIOS yet because I wanted to safe the riskiest part for last.

Regarding the UAD Drivers: I am very sorry, but I don't know what to do... When googling that I land on sites like this: https://help.uaudio.com/hc/en-us/articles/206453253--Windows-DSP-Accelerators-Uninstall-Reinstall-Procedure, but these are programs I dont have on my PC. This page says that I should uninstall the "Realtek High Definition Audio Driver", but according to your message this is what I should have and not what I shall uninstall. I see two programs under Programs and Features (Screenshot), I can see the same in Geek. Sorry, but what do I have to do exactly?

I didn't have any HyperX software on my PC, but I installed it, updated the firmware of my keyboard and uninstalled it afterwards. ROCCAT software is uninstalled now.

So far, sadly, nothing has changed to the good.

 

Best regards

Henry

Realtek.PNG

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26 minutes ago, Canry said:

Ok, I haven't updated my BIOS yet because I wanted to safe the riskiest part for last.

Regarding the UAD Drivers: I am very sorry, but I don't know what to do... When googling that I land on sites like this: https://help.uaudio.com/hc/en-us/articles/206453253--Windows-DSP-Accelerators-Uninstall-Reinstall-Procedure, but these are programs I dont have on my PC. This page says that I should uninstall the "Realtek High Definition Audio Driver", but according to your message this is what I should have and not what I shall uninstall. I see two programs under Programs and Features (Screenshot), I can see the same in Geek. Sorry, but what do I have to do exactly?

I didn't have any HyperX software on my PC, but I installed it, updated the firmware of my keyboard and uninstalled it afterwards. ROCCAT software is uninstalled now.

So far, sadly, nothing has changed to the good.

 

Best regards

Henry

Realtek.PNG

I know it's old school, but use the Control Panel 'Programs and Features' (I recommend Geek) - all will become clear. It's in the Device Manager you'll see the audio device change from 'Realtek (R) Audio' (UAD) to 'Realtek High Definition Audio Device' (HDA).

There's nothing to worry about doing the UEFI upgrade, use a FAT32 formatted USB stick (<32GB). Load optimised defaults, then open again and set all your necessary changes.

The UEFI changes are uCode, memory compatibility tweaks and potentially other undocumented improvements.

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4 hours ago, steviejay69 said:

I know it's old school, but use the Control Panel 'Programs and Features' (I recommend Geek) - all will become clear. It's in the Device Manager you'll see the audio device change from 'Realtek (R) Audio' (UAD) to 'Realtek High Definition Audio Device' (HDA).

There's nothing to worry about doing the UEFI upgrade, use a FAT32 formatted USB stick (<32GB). Load optimised defaults, then open again and set all your necessary changes.

The UEFI changes are uCode, memory compatibility tweaks and potentially other undocumented improvements.

Alright, I still didn't get it tbh, but I just uninstalled the Realtek Drivers and installed the other ones. Now my Device Manager looks like this (Screenshot). But it's not the Version which is recommenden for post Win10 R3.

Only thing left is the BIOS, I found this Video: 

Is that all I have to do or do I have to change any settings aswell? And does the USB-Stick have to be completely empty or is a FAT32 formatted Stick with 16 GB and some other stuff on it ok aswell? And the Download contains of a txt and 190 file, but in the video there is an exe aswell. Is that a problem? Sorry, I just want to be sure.

Audio.PNG

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4 minutes ago, Canry said:

Alright, I still didn't get it tbh, but I just uninstalled the Realtek Drivers and installed the other ones. Now my Device Manager looks like this (Screenshot). But it's not the Version which is recommenden for post Win10 R3.

Only thing left is the BIOS, I found this Video: 

Is that all I have to do or do I have to change any settings aswell? And does the USB-Stick have to be completely empty or is a FAT32 formatted Stick with 16 GB and some other stuff on it ok aswell? And the Download contains of a txt and 190 file, but in the video there is an exe aswell. Is that a problem? Sorry, I just want to be sure.

Audio.PNG

The driver looks OK.

Ideally, the stick would be empty but using the M-FLASH routine in the UEFI BIOS you select the file based on the filename, so it does not have to be empty. But if you select the wrong file and the M-FLASH accepts it (there are some checks or it may then ask you if you are sure to proceed - this in itself does not mean the file is good or bad), it may cause irreparable damage so I would recommend empty. You only need the 190 file.

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11 hours ago, steviejay69 said:

The driver looks OK.

Ideally, the stick would be empty but using the M-FLASH routine in the UEFI BIOS you select the file based on the filename, so it does not have to be empty. But if you select the wrong file and the M-FLASH accepts it (there are some checks or it may then ask you if you are sure to proceed - this in itself does not mean the file is good or bad), it may cause irreparable damage so I would recommend empty. You only need the 190 file.

Ok, thank you! I have now updated the BIOS. The wheel still doesnt work. Do you think that resetting the pc (without deleting any data) might help?

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37 minutes ago, Canry said:

Ok, thank you! I have now updated the BIOS. The wheel still doesnt work. Do you think that resetting the pc (without deleting any data) might help?

It has been known to work, as has a version update. It will uninstall a lot of apps.

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7 hours ago, steviejay69 said:

It has been known to work, as has a version update. It will uninstall a lot of apps.

Ok, I was thinking about the Windows internal option "Keep my files > Change settings > Preinstalled apps On": https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/12415/windows-10-recovery-options

Or do you think that it might work in a VM? I mean the wheel is working fine, except for F1, so a clean Windows Installation in a VM with nothing but Steam, the Drivers, Teamspeak and F1 on it may work. At least that's was I was thinking, but I am not really understanding the whole issue here.

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11 minutes ago, Canry said:

Ok, I was thinking about the Windows internal option "Keep my files > Change settings > Preinstalled apps On": https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/12415/windows-10-recovery-options

Or do you think that it might work in a VM? I mean the wheel is working fine, except for F1, so a clean Windows Installation in a VM with nothing but Steam, the Drivers, Teamspeak and F1 on it may work. At least that's was I was thinking, but I am not really understanding the whole issue here.

Not convinced that that option would work without a recovery partition, it's a little untested by me. 

Personally I was a fan of 'Refresh My PC' in Windows 8.1 but MS threw that one under the bus. Cloud reinstall is coming in v2004, don't hold your breath....

You could try a VM, that would prove whether a reinstall would work. In-place install would be no loss of data but you would have to reinstall software (I don't group apps with applications - they are UWP apps and Win32 (or WOW6432) code). But it tends to fix broken dependencies or runtimes. It's your choice, I can't certify either, I'm afraid.

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