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Tx thrustmaster wheel problem


Baggiesteve

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Hi guys sorry to post this here but I really need help and as this is the most used forum at the moment I thought I would give it a try. I updated my tx thrustmaster a couple of days ago. It has now stuck in (boot 9) mode. Which basically puts it into limp mode. There is little to no feedback and the wheel just doesn't feel right. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this problem or knows how to fix it?

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  • Codemasters Staff

Hi @Baggiesteve I have moved this from the beta forums to the technical assistance as it was not only in the incorrect sub-forum, it is a general wheel issue which will be better served in the technical assistance forums where others may be able to help you. 

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1 minute ago, RedDevilKT said:

Hi @Baggiesteve I have moved this from the beta forums to the technical assistance as it was not only in the incorrect sub-forum, it is a general wheel issue which will be better served in the technical assistance forums where others may be able to help you. 

That's great thank you 👍

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1 hour ago, Baggiesteve said:

Hi guys sorry to post this here but I really need help and as this is the most used forum at the moment I thought I would give it a try. I updated my tx thrustmaster a couple of days ago. It has now stuck in (boot 9) mode. Which basically puts it into limp mode. There is little to no feedback and the wheel just doesn't feel right. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this problem or knows how to fix it?

Use a USB 2.0 port on the PC. USB 3.0 ports are EXTREMELY DIFFERENT (XHCI vs EHCI)!

The latest Thrustmaster driver is here and the FW utility is in the same program group.

If you are still experiencing problems, it may be worth removing the F1 Rim and reconnecting the TX Rim (with the power off). Firmware v55 is the target.

Here's the post from the Thrustmaster TS page https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/kb/4596-en/

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41 minutes ago, steviejay69 said:

Use a USB 2.0 port on the PC. USB 3.0 ports are EXTREMELY DIFFERENT (XHCI vs EHCI)!

The latest Thrustmaster driver is here and the FW utility is in the same program group.

If you are still experiencing problems, it may be worth removing the F1 Rim and reconnecting the TX Rim (with the power off). Firmware v55 is the target.

Here's the post from the Thrustmaster TS page https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/kb/4596-en/

That's the update i did v55. But after I did it the bottom part(firmware) stayed in boot 9 mode. I tried taking the f1 wheel of and put on my Ferrari edition wheel on but it still says the same thing. Normally thrustmasters are really good getting back to you, but with all this virus stuff they cant answer phones or emails. I will try the 2.0 port though later. I didnt know there were different types 🤣

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40 minutes ago, Baggiesteve said:

That's the update i did v55. But after I did it the bottom part(firmware) stayed in boot 9 mode. I tried taking the f1 wheel of and put on my Ferrari edition wheel on but it still says the same thing. Normally thrustmasters are really good getting back to you, but with all this virus stuff they cant answer phones or emails. I will try the 2.0 port though later. I didnt know there were different types 🤣

OK make sure also you leave the wheel connected until the PC is at least restarting.

For the want of circulating 'good to know' knowledge to the broader community;

  • All the wheels currently available do USB 1.1 data rates.
  • USB 3.0 is *usually* highlighted with a blue (sometimes red - Mobo makers....whatcha gonna do.... :classic_rolleyes:) port key.
  • I would AVOID USB 3.x, USB-C (with or without adapters), USB hubs (passive or powered), USB 'Always On' (charging ports - usually indicated with a DC style symbol (solid line above broken line, sometimes coloured yellow port key)), front panel ports on header cables from the motherboard (often have poor soldering, questionable cable routing, sometimes flimsy in certain cheaper cases) and 3rd Party controller USB driven ports (often add-ons to boards that don't have Native USB 3.0) you may need to refer to your motherboard manual for assistance.
  • If your PC has only USB 3.0 ports (can be signified as all port keys being black) then I suggest you again refer to the motherboard manual for a way of altering the operating mode - XHCI is the newest mode, EHCI the older more compatible type and try switching the mode to EHCI - this of course means the max data rate of the ports will then be USB 2.0 but only really fast storage like External HDDs, USB flash drives and some SD card controllers will be affected. Most of these are transitioning to PCI-E lanes anyway with newer chipsets.

 

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1 minute ago, Baggiesteve said:

I'm running it on xbox one but updating it on laptop. Xbox one x only has 3.0 USB ports I believe 

It's certainly critical for the firmware updates that USB 2.0 is used (or USB 1.1) using the device in 'play' mode there may be 'bursty' data transfer rates that may have an effect but the wheel should be utilising driver APIs that are designed with current hardware specs in mind, The older DirectInput isn't really used too much, that was around the USB early spec. Now we are using XInput API that is a lot more sophisticated and can deal with different input types.

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