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David Greco's Handling, Driving and Setup Q&A

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List of all the Answers

General
What have changed, improved, the such?
Track surfaces, evolution of grip over the weekend and rain
Testing by real drivers in the future, and assist balance
What kind of setups does the AI use?
Grip scaling

Driving
Starts in F2

Driving in dirty air
How does brakes fading affect the driving and how to manage it?

Setup
F1 2019 setup to 2020, what to look at?
More downforce in the front or in the rear?

Dry tire temperature range & What do tire pressures affect?
What do tire pressures affect?
Do hotter temperatures affect the oversteer of the car?

Modifying default setups to be less understeery
Time Trial setup to race setup (Multiple answers in a row)

Handling
Difference between Mercedes and the Multiplayer car
F2 and engine braking
Is the FFB same as the beta, and info about an upcoming fix
Does the game implement a "Coca Cola bottle effect"?
Does the game implement the possibility of brakes overheating and tire temperatures dropping under SC/VSC?
Do the dry tires have a blanket operating range?
Is the altitude simulated in-game?
Will the game implement the grip differences of a wet rubbered in track?

Does the AI have dynamic tire temperatures?
Does the AI performance scale depending on the weather conditions?

Wheel / Controller Setups
Thrustmaster Control Panel Settings & T300
T300 In-game FFB settings
Greco's in-game wheel settings

Settings to get a linear curve in F1 games

Multiple Questions from Multiple Categories
Racing Line, What gears is overtake most effective and Lean fuel mix and engine wear

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46 minutes ago, ragequit1 said:

David, thanks for the replies. I find the default setups very understeery in slow speed corners, what setup adjustments would you recommend to remedy this issue?

Yes, preset 4 specially is a very good starting point.

drop the ride height around 3 or 4 at the front and 4 or 5 at the rear. Stiffen the rear ARB and springs. Use generally less toe. Those are all good things in order to remove understeer. I like to have a bit stiffer rear in the setup and balanced aero, like 4 4 or 5 5 and so on. (altho it will never be stiffer than the front, I don't recall now, but a 1 11 is more or less same n/m front and rear.)

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3 hours ago, sirio994 said:

Could you explain pressures better. It is more pressure more temperature but better wear.

In the past was it the opposite: less pressures less wear?

Another wuqestion about temperatures: is it me or overheating is easy but less tragic than it used to be? From my experience obviously it makes you lose time but less compared to the past from my experience. 

@David Greco CM

no, in the past, it wasn't doing anything. it was just a "spring" 

now is:

low pressure = more grip at low speed, lower temperature, higher wear. 

high pressure = more grip at high speed, higher temperature, less wear. 

yes, is a bit more linear the loss of grip with temperature, less exponential compared to last year. 

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Posted (edited)
54 minutes ago, David Greco CM said:

Yes, preset 4 specially is a very good starting point.

drop the ride height around 3 or 4 at the front and 4 or 5 at the rear. Stiffen the rear ARB and springs. Use generally less toe. Those are all good things in order to remove understeer. I like to have a bit stiffer rear in the setup and balanced aero, like 4 4 or 5 5 and so on. (altho it will never be stiffer than the front, I don't recall now, but a 1 11 is more or less same n/m front and rear.)

Heh, I'll reconsider the way I setup my car then.

Up to this point I've been dealing with understeer (and oversteer midcorner) mainly by tweaking the differentials. Felt like even 1-2 points made a tangible change. On a second level, the ARBs.

From my F1 2019 setups what changed the most was the differentials. Admittedly I never went too extreme with aero, most of my spreadsheet has values in the 3-6 range, but the diffs I had to open significantly.

Did not expect the ride height to have that much of an impact on over/understeering too, but on a second view this can be accredited to my being a dumb mule.

Edit: What I changed.

Edited by marioho
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Does the game implement the Coca Cola bottle effect? The effect gives you extra downforce in the rear and the diffusor also works much better and it’s lighter in the outside and in the rear, so you‘ve more grip thanks to the effect. Now every car has this effect, for example the Lauda F1 car didn’t had this effect. Would be nice to add it.

28599EF4-C4E7-434F-A5C5-EF4F42F795A0.png

863A4BBD-D8C9-492E-A9D5-CF13597F62DC.jpeg

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The brake pressure is standard at 100%, why is this? On older games I would never go above 88% because I lock up to easy. Is locking up less frequent in the game, so you can get away with a higher pressure? And how would you go about changing the brake bias during a race? Should you change the bias before every major braking zone, or do you only change it when you notice more wear on your front or rear tyres?

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24 minutes ago, Falstojudilofa said:

The brake pressure is standard at 100%, why is this? On older games I would never go above 88% because I lock up to easy. Is locking up less frequent in the game, so you can get away with a higher pressure? And how would you go about changing the brake bias during a race? Should you change the bias before every major braking zone, or do you only change it when you notice more wear on your front or rear tyres?

Brake bias goes beyond tyre wear, I think. Moving it forwards give you more stopping power at the cost of severe understeer if you try to swerve into the corner with any braking pressure being applied.

So I guess that depends on the circuit. If I'm planning on trail braking, you bet my brake bias will be towards the rear axle. 

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34 minutes ago, Falstojudilofa said:

The brake pressure is standard at 100%, why is this? On older games I would never go above 88% because I lock up to easy. Is locking up less frequent in the game, so you can get away with a higher pressure? And how would you go about changing the brake bias during a race? Should you change the bias before every major braking zone, or do you only change it when you notice more wear on your front or rear tyres?

Would be good to get the official word from @David Greco CM, but from my view point, 100% pressure would be perfect for dry, flat surfaces. You'd then want to remove pressure if bumpy track and or wet.

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42 minutes ago, Falstojudilofa said:

The brake pressure is standard at 100%, why is this? On older games I would never go above 88% because I lock up to easy. Is locking up less frequent in the game, so you can get away with a higher pressure? And how would you go about changing the brake bias during a race? Should you change the bias before every major braking zone, or do you only change it when you notice more wear on your front or rear tyres?

As i reworked the wheels inertias, is less easy so to say to lock up, so you can actually drive with 100% brake pressure no problem.

I generally change brake bias when i feel like the balance of the car has changed.

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16 minutes ago, marioho said:

Brake bias goes beyond tyre wear, I think. Moving it forwards give you more stopping power at the cost of severe understeer if you try to swerve into the corner with any braking pressure being applied.

So I guess that depends on the circuit. If I'm planning on trail braking, you bet my brake bias will be towards the rear axle. 

If I notice my rear tyres are more worn out than the front tyres, I change the break bias to put less strain on the worn rear tyres. Do you mean this has no effect at all?

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18 minutes ago, marioho said:

Brake bias goes beyond tyre wear, I think. Moving it forwards give you more stopping power at the cost of severe understeer if you try to swerve into the corner with any braking pressure being applied.

So I guess that depends on the circuit. If I'm planning on trail braking, you bet my brake bias will be towards the rear axle. 

And that too, good answer.

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1 hour ago, MissionTime05 said:

Does the game implement the Coca Cola bottle effect? The effect gives you extra downforce in the rear and the diffusor also works much better and it’s lighter in the outside and in the rear, so you‘ve more grip thanks to the effect. Now every car has this effect, for example the Lauda F1 car didn’t had this effect. Would be nice to add it.

28599EF4-C4E7-434F-A5C5-EF4F42F795A0.png

863A4BBD-D8C9-492E-A9D5-CF13597F62DC.jpeg

To a certain extent, yes

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2 hours ago, David Greco CM said:

Yes, preset 4 specially is a very good starting point.

drop the ride height around 3 or 4 at the front and 4 or 5 at the rear. Stiffen the rear ARB and springs. Use generally less toe. Those are all good things in order to remove understeer. I like to have a bit stiffer rear in the setup and balanced aero, like 4 4 or 5 5 and so on. (altho it will never be stiffer than the front, I don't recall now, but a 1 11 is more or less same n/m front and rear.)

Are you referring to the wings or the suspensions/arb that you are not using higher at the rear?

I've tested default 4 modified and I've gained so much pace. Thanks man.

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14 minutes ago, Falstojudilofa said:

If I notice my rear tyres are more worn out than the front tyres, I change the break bias to put less strain on the worn rear tyres. Do you mean this has no effect at all?

Didn't mean to imply that, sorry! Just that the brake bias slider is not only meant to manage tyre wear. Its main purpose actually is to balance the stopping power you have.

Grip is limited. Grip is responsible for transferring any forces between the car and the track. Acceleration, braking, and steering – they all depend on having sufficient grip. If you're allotting part of your front wheels grip to braking, then there is way less grip available for them to make the car turn.  

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7 minutes ago, sirio994 said:

Are you referring to the wings or the suspensions/arb that you are not using higher at the rear?

I've tested default 4 modified and I've gained so much pace. Thanks man.

wings, typically. unless it is in the wet, then i would use higher rear wing to front

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On 7/7/2020 at 12:15 PM, David Greco CM said:

Dry's: 85 to 100. Inters: 70 - 85. Wets: 60 - 75. Let's say that a couple of degrees outside this range is still ok, although, not optimal, but more, it starts to exponentially lose grip.

Low tyre pressure will help traction, help tyre temps, but will have more wear.
High tyre pressure will have less traction, but more responsive and better grip at high speed, better tyre wear, but higher temps.

 

Thx but why is that info not ingame? Jeff should tell us tbh.

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, kalamazoo123 said:

Thank you for the reply. I’m still confused as i don't see how -2.5 can be more camber than -3.5. However i am perfectly aware that I probably just don’t understand and i am grateful for you responding. At least now i know that right = more camber 😊

If I'm not mistaken, in math, -2.5 is greater than -3.5. With negative numbers, the closer to zero the bigger it is. So -2.5 is more of a negative camber.

Edited by RockSteel53
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Posted (edited)

If I am allowed a quota of silly questions too, may I ask:

  1. The racing line assist. Seems to me that green doesn't equal flat-out throttle, just that you're good to accelerate to a certain degree. What does yellow and red mean then? Originally I assumed it was to ease on the throttle and to begin braking, but I'm not sure.
  2. Actually pertaining F1 2020 new handling system now, on what gears/RPM is the Overtake mode most efficient? If I'm not mistaken, last game Overtake delivered more power than High or Hotlap only on gears 7 and 8. I wonder how to use the function to get the most out of it on those straights that you start accelerating form 2nd gear and will have a considerable strip of 2-3 seconds on 8th gear before the next braking zone. 
  3. Lean Fuel Mix and engine wear. I've heard conflicting information on this one. Fuel consumption aside, what is the impact of running on Lean on the engine wear? Does it increase the rate or will it save engine?
Edited by marioho

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Hi David having a good read through your answers over the last few days and I really enjoy the time you’ve taken for us. What would you say is the best method to help learn to run with no TC in terms of setting the car up and pedal settings?

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23 hours ago, Bertje1989 said:

Enjoying the game so far but still not fully satisfied with my FFB Settings. Does anyone have some suggestions for settings for a Thrustmaster T500rs for PS4?

i think i'll use similar to F1 19.
it was:
60%
0%
0%
0%
0%
OFF
360 degree rotation.

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10 hours ago, RockSteel53 said:

If I'm not mistaken, in math, -2.5 is greater than -3.5. With negative numbers, the closer to zero the bigger it is. So -2.5 is more of a negative camber.

More angle more camber you get, max camber is -3.5°. Usually Pirelli allows max camber not more than -3.5° at fronts, exception is Monaco with camber angle even higher -3.75°.

image.png.ebe70c5fa84d1798f432aa96e3c01bba.png

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10 hours ago, marioho said:

If I am allowed a quota of silly questions too, may I ask:

  1. The racing line assist. Seems to me that green doesn't equal flat-out throttle, just that you're good to accelerate to a certain degree. What does yellow and red mean then? Originally I assumed it was to ease on the throttle and to begin braking, but I'm not sure.
  2. Actually pertaining F1 2020 new handling system now, on what gears/RPM is the Overtake mode most efficient? If I'm not mistaken, last game Overtake delivered more power than High or Hotlap only on gears 7 and 8. I wonder how to use the function to get the most out of it on those straights that you start accelerating form 2nd gear and will have a considerable strip of 2-3 seconds on 8th gear before the next braking zone. 
  3. Lean Fuel Mix and engine wear. I've heard conflicting information on this one. Fuel consumption aside, what is the impact of running on Lean on the engine wear? Does it increase the rate or will it save engine?

1. Green line means full gas should you apply it with straight steering wheel. Don't bother with yellow line, start brake hard just before it goes red the line.

2. As David mentioned OT button deploys 160 hp out of MGU-H unit.

3. Using lean mix mean less torque is transferred to the rear wheels, helping with tyre wear slightly.

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5 minutes ago, sergey_blackbird said:

1. Green line means full gas should you apply it with straight steering wheel. Don't bother with yellow line, start brake hard just before it goes red the line.

2. As David mentioned OT button deploys 160 hp out of MGU-H unit.

3. Using lean mix mean less torque is transferred to the rear wheels, helping with tyre wear slightly.

Thank you! But #3 was referring to engine wear. Rich mix will wear your ICE faster, but I've seen people saying that Lean will do the same as it is not the optimal combustion mix and I've seen others saying that the engine damage is reduced on this mode compared to both standard and rich.

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27 minutes ago, sergey_blackbird said:

More angle more camber you get, max camber is -3.5°. Usually Pirelli allows max camber not more than -3.5° at fronts, exception is Monaco with camber angle even higher -3.75°.

image.png.ebe70c5fa84d1798f432aa96e3c01bba.png

Except the max is on the right of the septup screen and it is labeled -2.50°. Confusing no?

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14 minutes ago, philappleraily said:

Except the max is on the right of the septup screen and it is labeled -2.50°. Confusing no?

This abrakadabra with min being max and vise versa is present for years.

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24 minutes ago, sergey_blackbird said:

This abrakadabra with min being max and vise versa is present for years.

I know but it continues to be very confusing since you have to slide the cursor to the min on the left to get the maximum negative camber -3.50°!

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