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Setups (what to use at each track?)

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21 minutes ago, vTeritron said:

Hello guys,

could someone of you do me (a beginner) a favour? I really don't need super sofisicated setups, because it makes no sense for me anyway. But a least I could choose the most appropriate default setup for a given track. You know we have:

  - max downforce (MD)
  - high downforce (HD)
  - med. downforce/med. speed (MDS)
  - high speed (HS)
  - max speed (MS)

Can you fill the following list?

  - Australia: 
  - Bahrain: 
  - Vietnam: 
  - China: 
  - Netherlands: 
  - Spain: 
  - Monaco: MD
  - Aserbaischan: MD
  - Canada: 
  - France: 
  - Austria: 
  - Great Britain: 
  - Hungary: 
  - Belgium: 
  - Italy: 
  - Singapur: MD
  - Russia: 
  - Japan: 
  - USA: 
  - Mexico: 
  - Brasil: 
  - Abu Dhabi: 

Many Thanks!

 

Start from a preset you like and then adjust wings, suspensions, antiroll bar and ride height. In the past presets were similar with differences in terms of downforce, straight line speed and stability.

Now they are completely different. Preset 3 is undestery with simplified traction but can easily lead to overheating. Preset 4 is a more aggressive baseline with no rear toe so very fast but can be unstable. Preset 2 is stable, slower but at the same time less understeery than preset 3.

Preset 5 with maximum tyre pressures has no sense. Preset 1 is good at Monaco but too slow for other tracks.

 

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Thanks guys, I was looking for a favour for me. I as a beginner have enough to do to learn driving and learn the tracks. Maybe even when I achieved that, I don't want to learn about physics etc., just use someones setups.

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2 hours ago, vTeritron said:

  - max downforce (MD = Preset 1)
  - high downforce (HD = Preset 2)
  - med. downforce/med. speed (MDS = Preset 3)
  - high speed (HS = Preset 4)
  - max speed (MS = Preset 5)

Can you fill the following list?

Use Preset 4 (HS) as your default. Take this chart from the first page and slap Preset 4 on all tracks except those that have:

  • Downforce 1: use Preset 5
  • Downforce 4: use Preset 2
  • Downforce 5: use Preset 1

When the time comes and you decide to learn the basics, there are very good video guides on youtube we can point out and naturally this community as well.  

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  • Agree 2

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1 hour ago, vTeritron said:

Thanks guys, I was looking for a favour for me. I as a beginner have enough to do to learn driving and learn the tracks. Maybe even when I achieved that, I don't want to learn about physics etc., just use someones setups.

I tend to start a setup from what these guys have posted: https://realsport101.com/?s=f1+2020+setup

They're generally pretty good tbh they don't need too much tweaking. 

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, marioho said:

Use Preset 4 (HS) as your default. Take this chart from the first page and slap Preset 4 on all tracks except those that have:

  • Downforce 1: use Preset 5
  • Downforce 4: use Preset 2
  • Downforce 5: use Preset 1

When the time comes and you decide to learn the basics, there are very good video guides on youtube we can point out and naturally this community as well.  

This is a good compromise to use presets (eventually even preset 4 but with wings at 5-5 or 6-6 if you feel that the car is hard to drive with 4-4). Or eventually real sport as suggested.

7 hours ago, vTeritron said:

Thanks guys, I was looking for a favour for me. I as a beginner have enough to do to learn driving and learn the tracks. Maybe even when I achieved that, I don't want to learn about physics etc., just use someones setups.

It is perfectly fine. The problem is that if you blindly suggest presets as they are to a beginner apparently you're helping him but in reality you're bringing him into more trouble. Preset 3 has temperature problems that a beginner could not be able to recognize and fix with his driving and preset 5 you should be aware of what those numbers mean (it is a preset that is there to have some causal gaming fun in the straights of Monza).

Edited by sirio994
  • Agree 1

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15 hours ago, vTeritron said:

Hello guys,

could someone of you do me (a beginner) a favour? I really don't need super sofisicated setups, because it makes no sense for me anyway. But a least I could choose the most appropriate default setup for a given track. You know we have:

  - max downforce (MD = Preset 1)
  - high downforce (HD = Preset 2)
  - med. downforce/med. speed (MDS = Preset 3)
  - high speed (HS = Preset 4)
  - max speed (MS = Preset 5)

Can you fill the following list?

  - Australia: 
  - Bahrain: 
  - Vietnam: 
  - China: 
  - Netherlands: 
  - Spain: 
  - Monaco: MD
  - Aserbaischan: MD
  - Canada: 
  - France: 
  - Austria: 
  - Great Britain: 
  - Hungary: 
  - Belgium: 
  - Italy: 
  - Singapur: MD
  - Russia: 
  - Japan: 
  - USA: 
  - Mexico: 
  - Brasil: 
  - Abu Dhabi: 

Many Thanks!

 

Somebody on Reddit did exactly that a few days ago:

 

https://www.reddit.com/r/F1Game/comments/ht6kdo/f1_2020_recommended_presets_list_for_noobs/

image.png

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3 hours ago, PJTierney said:

Lemme correct something there. I used a middle ground (custom) setup for downforce on Austarila, Britain, Russia, and Spain and max downforce on Brasil. Alhough, I suppose the middle ground could've worked there as well because it's a 4 according to Pirelli. Haven't raced trialed at Abu Dhabi with an aero-correct setup yet.

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A question I've been meaning to ask for a while. Are the preset setups the same on all tracks? I've never really checked.

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17 minutes ago, Lakrits said:

A question I've been meaning to ask for a while. Are the preset setups the same on all tracks? I've never really checked.

Yes same presets and values are absolute. So 11 at Monaco is 11 at Monza in terms of wings and so on...

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for all the feedback. Still a lot unclear to me:

1.) Do you have different setups between going for a fast lap, or for a race?

Because it might be ok to ruin the tires for one lap, but of course not for performing a race.

Maybe the setup for fast lap can be used for a very short (5 lap) race? But what do you change for mid or long-term races?

 

2.) When I am doing fast laps, do the tires really degrade? So shall I always go back into the menu and return to box, and start new after each single lap, to have the tires in best condition? Or makes it more sense to run 5 laps in a row to come into groove, instead of make always a short break?

 

3.) I was most of the time flighing of the track at the en-rouge in Spa (Belgium). I asked other players. They told me that I need downforce for it. But above I don't see that downforce is recommended for Spa. What is right, and what is wrong?

Edited by vTeritron

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Quote

1.) Do you have different setups between going for a fast lap, or for a race?

Because it might be ok to ruin the tires for one lap, but of course not for performing a race.

Maybe the setup for fast lap can be used for a very short (5 lap) race? But what do you change for mid or long-term races?

I'll defer this one to someone who's done TT and races, as I only do TT at this point

 

Quote

2.) When I am doing fast laps, do the tires really degrade? So shall I always go back into the menu and return to box, and start new after each single lap, to have the tires in best condition? Or makes it more sense to run 5 laps in a row to come into groove, instead of make always a short break?

Dunno about practice for sure, but my guess is tyres degrade during it. I could be incorrect about tyres dnot degrading during TT, but deg seems to be either insignificant or nonexistant to me there. I ran several laps on Silversone's short layout earlier, one of which was right around 51 seconds and had to be pitched. I'm fairly sure that was the third or fourth lap in the stint

 

Quote

3.) I was most of the time flighing of the track at the en-rouge in Spa (Belgium). I asked other players. They told me that I need downforce for it. But above I don't see that downforce is recommended for Spa. What is right, and what is wrong?

I'd suggest using either the third or fourth preset on Spa, unless you wanna make your own setup that reduces downforce.

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Posted (edited)

@vTeritron

1. I don't do Time Trials much. I've probably played this mode like 3x tops. I play mostly My Team and Career, or otherwise whole GP's. But as far as I know setups for TTs are different from those for races as they do need adjusting to account for tyre wear above all, but also for performance in less than ideal circumstances – on a race you'll find yourself being forced out of the ideal race line time and time again both to defend your position or to attempt a pass. So suspension geometry and suspension changes a lot. 

2. What do you mean by fast laps? Fast laps on Time Trial? No, your tyres don't degrade. Or if they do it is to a negligible degree. You don't need to return to the garage expect for changing your setup. However if you mean attempting fast laps on a practice session inside My Team, Career and etc? Then yes, they do degrade and you better take care as per FIA rules (that are all simulated in the game) you only have a given assortment of tyres for the whole weekend GP and after each practice session you give two sets back. You need to manage it, but it is easy peasy.

3. Eau Rouge and Raidillon are notorious hard and notorious fun to take! Your question is quite off the mark here and you'll probably see why when you get a better hang on the concepts evolved. Eau Rouge and Raidillon form a complex of turns in the Spa circuit. Unless the rest of the track is as bland as they get, you won't setup your whole car just to make the best of a single corner or complex. You set it up thinking of good performance throughout the whole circuit. My Aero setup for Spa is 3/5, and I've seen other people running on 3/5, people running on 3/6, on 2/6, on 2/4... There is no clear cut answer, chap. And that's because everybody set up their cars differently and everybody have a different driving style. Maybe you do well with a oversteering car on corner entry but can't drive an understeering when turning in, but the guy next to you is the exact opposite.

Eau Rouge to me is all about being smooth and extra light on the steering and having a balanced car. It is not much a corner per se, but a heck of a elevation change with slant thrown in for extra spiciness. What makes it challenging is what it does for the pitch and the roll of your car. To take ir correctly you'll adjust your balance through suspension mostly (both springs and anti-roll bars) and may fine tune the cornering behavior through the suspension geometry. For this complex of cornes specifically, more rear toe and rear camber will help a beginner and since there ain't much of a direction change in there you would be more concerned with your car weight not rolling around side to side - so stiffer ARBs.

See how downforce has so little to do with taking Eau Rouge? With time you'll see why.  

Edited by marioho

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, vTeritron said:

Thanks for all the feedback. Still a lot unclear to me:

1.) Do you have different setups between going for a fast lap, or for a race?

Because it might be ok to ruin the tires for one lap, but of course not for performing a race.

Maybe the setup for fast lap can be used for a very short (5 lap) race? But what do you change for mid or long-term races?

 

2.) When I am doing fast laps, do the tires really degrade? So shall I always go back into the menu and return to box, and start new after each single lap, to have the tires in best condition? Or makes it more sense to run 5 laps in a row to come into groove, instead of make always a short break?

 

3.) I was most of the time flighing of the track at the en-rouge in Spa (Belgium). I asked other players. They told me that I need downforce for it. But above I don't see that downforce is recommended for Spa. What is right, and what is wrong?

Eau Rouge struggles are usually connected to differential, suspensions, ride height or tyre pressures. Your car is either too stiff, too low or can't handle what the sudden elevation change and kerbs do to the wheels....

Edited by sirio994
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Ride height's the big one. Set that too low and the car will bottom out on the crest, and you'll no longer be social distancing the tyre barrier.

 

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4 hours ago, PJTierney said:

Ride height's the big one. Set that too low and the car will bottom out on the crest, and you'll no longer be physical distancing the tyre barrier.

 

Fixed. I dunno where "social distancing" came from originally when referring to us, but we're being social just by being on this forum. While that doesn't apply to inanimate objects, I believe "physical distancing" is still the better terminology.

  • Haha 2

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hm... probably a super stupid qustion but how do I know the car is to low. There is no telemetry that says if i bottomed out and when I lose the car on a kerb how do I feel the difference between this and lets say a loss of grip on the kerbs slippier surface. Is there a distinct sound I just dont hear?

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2 minutes ago, TurkeySloth2107 said:

Fixed. I dunno where "social distancing" came from originally when referring to us, but we're being social just by being on this forum. While that doesn't apply to inanimate objects, I believe "physical distancing" is still the better terminology.

It was a joke but good correction 🙂 

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Just now, fraggi said:

hm... probably a super stupid qustion but how do I know the car is to low. There is no telemetry that says if i bottomed out and when I lose the car on a kerb how do I feel the difference between this and lets say a loss of grip on the kerbs slippier surface. Is there a distinct sound I just dont hear?

Can't remember if there's a specific notice while driving, but the most obvious indicator are tons of sparks flying out the back.

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Thats a good point. So I should watch the replay from behind the car or TV camera. Nice, thanks.

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