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Struggling to make the turns

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7 hours ago, Ultra3142 said:

your video is interesting and thanks for taking the time to record and share that :classic_smile:. I responded to a very specific statement that you made though, which read to me (and I suspect others) that if people didn't do as you suggested that their pedals would be unusable which just isn't true. Hence my reply.

Obviously wires must have gotten crossed then, as I never stated they would be unusable. I just stated it would cause problems, more specifically with braking.

10 hours ago, Ialyrn said:

P.S to anyone with a wheel. When you first plug in your wheel to play a racing game. Make sure to press all your pedals fully before playing. The pedals do not self calibrate like the wheel does, and you must do this every time you plug your wheel in. If you dont, then the slightest touch of the pedals will register as 100%. Which will really mess up your braking more than anything. Mainly because the throttle and clutch tend to get pressed fully at race start, but the brake doesnt. 

See, I even mentioned that its less of an issue with the throttle and clutch, as those tend to be pressed 100% before a race starts. The main problem caused by not getting into a habit of calibrating the pedals, is if you just jump straight into a race. Since it could cause lockup very easily, even if you havnt moved the brake pedal a lot. This is bad in a single player race, and could cause a flashback or even restarting the race while wondering what happened. But even worse if your first race of the day happens to be online.

Since the op state they have only just gotten a wheel, this is why I stated what I did about the pedals; as it is information that would be highly benificial and relevent to them. And could potentially stop them having to seak further support later down the line if they realised their brake pedal is acting funny when they first plug their wheel in.
 

7 hours ago, Ultra3142 said:

your video is interesting and thanks for taking the time to record and share that :classic_smile:.

I dont mind taking some time to record videos like this, its information that often gets overlooked anyway; hence why you probably hadnt come across someone saying it previously. So it wont hurt having a video out there in the wild to show people the importance of calibrating the pedals.

Though one thing to note about me, I never open my mouth in regards to things like this if they are not factual. I actually hate misinformation, its a total pet peeve of mine; as it just causes issues for everyone. So I will never put information out there unless I know it is factual, and can also be backed up. Either by content already on the internet, or by showing it myself directly as above.

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14 hours ago, Ialyrn said:

Ive been at this sim racing malarky for 30 years, I have used a wheel almost redominantly for 20 of those years. What I state above has ALWAYS been the case in regards to calibrating the pedals, across multiple wheels from Logitech to Thrustmaster (and others), and across multiple platforms (games consoles and PC's). It is an accepted practice to depress all your pedals when you first plug in your wheel/pedals, as the pedals can not self calibrate. This is not opinion from me, it is simple fact.
...
This is not a fault of my hardware, this happens on any pedal set on any gaming system. This has been true for the 20 years I have been using racing wheels, and it is accepted practice to manually calibrate the pedals in this way when you first plug in your wheel or turn on your computer. But feel free to stand by what you have said in response.

Interesting.  I've been sim racing for a decade, but my career is in IT and I know a thing or two about system drivers and software associated with hardware peripherals.  My experience with Logitech and Thrustmaster, and now Fanatec, on PC across multiple Windows versions, PS2/3/4, and multiple Xbox systems, does not match yours - I've never had a wheel/pedal system require recalibration after a power off/restart of the system.  In the last 6 or 7 years, that means not Thrustmaster on Xbox One or One X, not Fanatec on Xbox One or One X, not Fanatec on Windows 10.  With each of those combinations, I can power on the systems, fire up the racing games (including generations of Codemaster F1s), and the wheel and pedals work 100% correctly without having to do any calibration steps, implicit or explicit.  My current system is Fanatec on Windows 10 and/or Xbox One X, and with both the calibration continues to be set correctly no matter how many times I power on or off the system.

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7 hours ago, Ialyrn said:

Though one thing to note about me, I never open my mouth in regards to things like this if they are not factual. I actually hate misinformation, its a total pet peeve of mine; as it just causes issues for everyone. So I will never put information out there unless I know it is factual, and can also be backed up. Either by content already on the internet, or by showing it myself directly as above.

I am the same, which is partly why I responded as I did to your original post. I highlighted in bold the cause of the confusion in your original post when I quoted it, which I will do so again now so you can hopefully see where I was coming from:

18 hours ago, Ialyrn said:

P.S to anyone with a wheel. When you first plug in your wheel to play a racing game. Make sure to press all your pedals fully before playing. The pedals do not self calibrate like the wheel does, and you must do this every time you plug your wheel in. If you dont, then the slightest touch of the pedals will register as 100%. Which will really mess up your braking more than anything. Mainly because the throttle and clutch tend to get pressed fully at race start, but the brake doesnt.

There was no hint of this being a one off, and although you went on to talk about the brake if any pedal registered 100% with the slightest touch it would make the pedals basically unusable. I suspect most beginners modulate the accelerator a lot more than the brake anyway actually. I certainly do.

It is absolutely helpful information to mention to people to press all pedals all the way down after first connecting them up and I'm grateful you shared this. In practice though, most of the time the consequence of not explicitly doing so will be very minor as it is a self-correcting problem.

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4 hours ago, Flash42G said:

Interesting.  I've been sim racing for a decade, but my career is in IT and I know a thing or two about system drivers and software associated with hardware peripherals.  My experience with Logitech and Thrustmaster, and now Fanatec, on PC across multiple Windows versions, PS2/3/4, and multiple Xbox systems, does not match yours - I've never had a wheel/pedal system require recalibration after a power off/restart of the system.  In the last 6 or 7 years, that means not Thrustmaster on Xbox One or One X, not Fanatec on Xbox One or One X, not Fanatec on Windows 10.  With each of those combinations, I can power on the systems, fire up the racing games (including generations of Codemaster F1s), and the wheel and pedals work 100% correctly without having to do any calibration steps, implicit or explicit.  My current system is Fanatec on Windows 10 and/or Xbox One X, and with both the calibration continues to be set correctly no matter how many times I power on or off the system.

I am sorry, but just because you work in IT, doesnt mean you know everything about every single peice of hardware and software in existence. Though it does grant you better knowledge than the average joe. The reason the pedals dont self calibrate, is because they are not motorised like the wheel is. The fact that you havnt seen this with the pedals, is just something you havnt noticed. That doesnt mean I am wrong. Though obvisouly further proof is required, so here is this directly from Thrustmaster's own support website stating that their pedals will be calibrated after a few presses of the pedals.

Thrustmaster.png.42b8501fdeb43b3cb2fe84e14c7e9847.png

https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/kb/3816-en/

I could repeat the test with my G27 and my G920 and record it like I did with my Thrustmaster, but I can tell you with 100% certainty without doing that, that the results would be exactly the same as with my T300's T3PA Pro pedals in the video I made yesterday. I also know a few people with Fanatec wheels that have noted the same, though I will admit I cant test on Fanatec hardware; as I dont own any. But since you do, it wont take much to test it on your end. Fanatecs pedal/wheel software should have an axis monitor in their drivers for the pedals. So all you need to do is unplug your wheel/pedals from the USB port and your PC and unplug it from the mains power for a few minutes. And then plug it all back in as you normally would. Load up the fanatec software on Windows once the auto wheel calibration is finished, and slow press the pedals to see what happens.

Just to be clear, this isnt a case of calibration failure, its just a case of essentially priming the pedals by depressing them before racing. As I keep saying, they can not self calibrate like the wheel can because the pedals are not motorised. it doesnt stop them from working, it can just cause issues with braking more than anything, as it can cause lockup due to registering 100% in software when the physical pedal is only at 50% or lower. If you forget to calibrate them at first start up, it still happens once you are in game. If you are playing something like Assetto Corsa, or even Forza or Dirt Rally 2, chances are both the Throttle and Clutch have been pressed before the green light anyway, so they will be calibrated before you start driving. The brake is another matter, most people dont sit at the start line pressing the brake a couple of times as far as it can go. And as I pointed out to @Ultra3142 You will absolutly miss it if the ABS assist is used, since it specifically stops brake lockups.

Edit: Also, you are less likely to notice the brake not been calibrated if you use something like the conical brake mode, or have the brake resistence up rather high on the Fanatec brakes. Also, I have no idea if Load Cell brakes act the same, since I will freely admit I have never used a load cell brake yet.

Edited by Ialyrn

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5 hours ago, Ialyrn said:

I am sorry, but just because you work in IT, doesnt mean you know everything about every single peice of hardware and software in existence. Though it does grant you better knowledge than the average joe. The reason the pedals dont self calibrate, is because they are not motorised like the wheel is. The fact that you havnt seen this with the pedals, is just something you havnt noticed. That ...doesnt mean I am wrong. 


Edit: Also, you are less likely to notice the brake not been calibrated if you use something like the conical brake mode, or have the brake resistence up rather high on the Fanatec brakes. Also, I have no idea if Load Cell brakes act the same, since I will freely admit I have never used a load cell brake yet.

So you can state unequivocally that I am wrong, and can absolutely reject any suggestion that you are wrong? 🤣  I didn't state absolutes that ALL and EVERY pedal setup requires calibration every time you restart the system, you did - and honestly, no need to ***** foot around any more, you are wrong.  That is not an absolute condition.  I am an engineer by education and practice, I'm pretty familiar with testing processes and requirements.  Before you repeat the nonsense - No, just because I work in IT and just because I'm an engineer doesn't mean I know everything - no engineer would ever claim that.  I don't not notice stuff, and I certainly do not make claims that I haven't specifically looked for, noticed, and verified.  I noticed.  You are wrong.  My Thrustmaster pedals on Xbox did not need recalibrating every time I powered them up.  My Fanatec pedals on Xbox and on Windows 10 do not need calibrating every time I powered them up.  I know how to check calibration, I would notice if they were not providing full range.

 

Sorry to burst your bubble.  Your absolute statements applying to all instances are wrong.

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16 minutes ago, Flash42G said:

So you can state unequivocally that I am wrong, and can absolutely reject any suggestion that you are wrong? 🤣  I didn't state absolutes that ALL and EVERY pedal setup requires calibration every time you restart the system, you did - and honestly, no need to ***** foot around any more, you are wrong.  That is not an absolute condition.  I am an engineer by education and practice, I'm pretty familiar with testing processes and requirements.  Before you repeat the nonsense - No, just because I work in IT and just because I'm an engineer doesn't mean I know everything - no engineer would ever claim that.  I don't not notice stuff, and I certainly do not make claims that I haven't specifically looked for, noticed, and verified.  I noticed.  You are wrong.  My Thrustmaster pedals on Xbox did not need recalibrating every time I powered them up.  My Fanatec pedals on Xbox and on Windows 10 do not need calibrating every time I powered them up.  I know how to check calibration, I would notice if they were not providing full range.

 

Sorry to burst your bubble.  Your absolute statements applying to all instances are wrong.

Sigh!
2073852140_Fanatecpedals.thumb.png.5e63414e77a09bb912a44624873dc3fa.png

So it would appear the same proceedure used by Logitech and Thrustmaster is recomended by Fanatec also, what a surprise. Perhaps you need to stop letting your IT and enginering credentials getting in the way of your judgement here, because I proved you wrong before you even replied in this thread. Unless you wish to further argue that both Thrustmaster and Fanatec dont know how their own hardware works and are also as wrong as I am?

As I said previously in this thread, I do not state anything unless it is factual and can be backed up. But please, keep telling me how I am wrong.

The information from Thrustmaster regarding their pedals again also, just to refresh your memory -

Thrustmaster.png.92234853393ea1fe246833b1a1fd3f9c.png

 

Whether you want to calibrate your pedals or not before you start sim racing, thats your choice. But the advice I gave in this thread is based on a lot of years of experiance around sim racing specifically, with 20 years of experiance of using wheels and pedals almost predominantly. Based on other sim racers feedback, as well as documentation for the hardware available. Its just good practice to press all your pedals when first plugging in your wheel for a session, it is even stated in the manuals for the hardware itself that auto calibration occurs after the pedals have been pressed. There is a reason why the wheel self calibrates everytime it is turned on by self rotating, and its because the wheels do not hold onto the calibration data after been unpluged or disconnected from the computer/console. It is exactly the same for the pedals, but as I keep telling you, because the pedals are not motorised like the wheel base is, you have to manually press the pedals all the way to set their calibration.

Look, I am not trying to be a pain, and I dont think you are either. The fact you havnt noticed it is just a case you havnt noticed it, I cant help that. But I can assure you that the logitech pedals will show exactly the same thing as my T3PA Pro pedals I showed in my video previsouly. And according to the manual for the Fanatec pedals, it would appear they will also show exactly the same thing.

It doesnt matter who is right or wrong here, all what matters is that people have good practices and information in regards to using sim racing hardware. And pressing the pedals prior to racing to make sure they are calibrated correctly is just that, a good practice. And as I keep pointing out, its only ever likely to be noticed on the brake pedal, since the throttle and clutch tend to be pressed fully while the count down happens. And even that wont be noticed at all if you have ABS turned on in which ever game/sim you are using at the time. Pedal calibration will happen as you are racing anyway, it just saves any potential issues at all if the habit is there to press all the pedals prior to getting on the track. Especially if you just go right into a multiple race. I am sure you know what it feels like when someone locks up under braking and goes sliding into you at the first corner. Which, depending on the game and settings, can end a race before it even gets started.

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If the first thing someone does in F1 2020 is a standing start to a race then actually any issue with the accelerator calibration would be very apparent since they would not want full throttle.

So far I think my first lap has always been from a flying start, either in Time Trial or as a one-shot qualifying lap so I've not been in a position to notice the above.

Edited by Ultra3142

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The next time I turn on my computer and start playing F1 2020, I'm going to intentionally NOT touch either of the pedals until I start the race.  I'm honestly curious to know if they are calibrated or not on the first press.

I could probably test it in the settings page as well.  If they are 0-100 in a tiny press, it will be very apparent.

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45 minutes ago, DrDraken said:

The next time I turn on my computer and start playing F1 2020, I'm going to intentionally NOT touch either of the pedals until I start the race.  I'm honestly curious to know if they are calibrated or not on the first press.

I could probably test it in the settings page as well.  If they are 0-100 in a tiny press, it will be very apparent.

Mine behaved similarly to what @Ialyrn showed and I bet yours will too. It's just that the problem is solved by simply using the pedals normally so unless the very first press of each pedal is hyper critical most won't notice, whether using ABS or not. 

Edited by Ultra3142

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This was one of those cases, wasn't it? Where everybody can agree to 100 or at least 90% of what's been stated since the beginning, needing just a little tuning to other people's tone. 

Oprah meme - quickmeme

Everybody's right. 

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7 hours ago, Ialyrn said:

Sigh!
2073852140_Fanatecpedals.thumb.png.5e63414e77a09bb912a44624873dc3fa.png

So it would appear the same proceedure used by Logitech and Thrustmaster is recomended by Fanatec also, what a surprise. Perhaps you need to stop letting your IT and enginering credentials getting in the way of your judgement here, because I proved you wrong before you even replied in this thread. Unless you wish to further argue that both Thrustmaster and Fanatec dont know how their own hardware works and are also as wrong as I am?

No, you're absolutely correct - for ONE time.  The first time you use the Fanatec pedals, they certainly do need to be calibrated.  ONE TIME.  They do not need to be calibrated again unless you perform a driver update.  It states that right in your copied image - "When the CSL Elite Pedals LC were powered without have done a manual calibration yet or after a firmware update the CSL Elide Pedals operates in auto calibration mode. (...) To calibrate each pedal press every pedal lever from initial mechanical position ... ONE TIME".

Please read again - "when powered without have done a manual calibration yet"; "or after a firmware update".  ONLY THEN do the pedals need to be manually calibrated (or auto calibrated by moving through full range).  After that initial time, they do not need to be calibrated again unless you change the firmware.

Sorry, I let my engineering and IT credentials help me read the documentation thoroughly and perform the prescribed procedures properly.  No judgement involved. I don't just skim the first sentence and say "Aha!!!" as you seem to have done.

 

You're still wrong, your own quoted document proves it.  Geez, all you needed to do was add a qualifier or two, like "in my experience", or "as far as I've seen"... but you're still insisting that the manual calibration every time you power up the system is an absolute and applies to every pedal system.  It doesn't.  You don't need to start throwing out insults, either.  You made the claim, I politely offered a different perspective to suggest that your claim wasn't universal or absolute.  Now you've proven that point for me.  Thanks.  To be perfectly clear, the Fanatec documentation is absolutely correct - you do need to calibrate ONE TIME after a new install or installing new firmware.  After that, calibration is not required, even if you dare to power off the system or components.  My experience over 4 months with my Fanatec system corroborates that documentation - and also proves you to be incorrect in your absolute all inclusive insistence.

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20 minutes ago, Flash42G said:

No, you're absolutely correct - for ONE time.  The first time you use the Fanatec pedals, they certainly do need to be calibrated.  ONE TIME.  They do not need to be calibrated again unless you perform a driver update.  It states that right in your copied image - "When the CSL Elite Pedals LC were powered without have done a manual calibration yet or after a firmware update the CSL Elide Pedals operates in auto calibration mode. (...) To calibrate each pedal press every pedal lever from initial mechanical position ... ONE TIME".

Please read again - "when powered without have done a manual calibration yet"; "or after a firmware update".  ONLY THEN do the pedals need to be manually calibrated (or auto calibrated by moving through full range).  After that initial time, they do not need to be calibrated again unless you change the firmware.

Sorry, I let my engineering and IT credentials help me read the documentation thoroughly and perform the prescribed procedures properly.  No judgement involved. I don't just skim the first sentence and say "Aha!!!" as you seem to have done.

 

You're still wrong, your own quoted document proves it.  Geez, all you needed to do was add a qualifier or two, like "in my experience", or "as far as I've seen"... but you're still insisting that the manual calibration every time you power up the system is an absolute and applies to every pedal system.  It doesn't.  You don't need to start throwing out insults, either.  You made the claim, I politely offered a different perspective to suggest that your claim wasn't universal or absolute.  Now you've proven that point for me.  Thanks.  To be perfectly clear, the Fanatec documentation is absolutely correct - you do need to calibrate ONE TIME after a new install or installing new firmware.  After that, calibration is not required, even if you dare to power off the system or components.  My experience over 4 months with my Fanatec system corroborates that documentation - and also proves you to be incorrect in your absolute all inclusive insistence.

Unplug your wheel from your computer amd the mains power for a few minutes then, plug it all back in and let the wheel calibrate, and then test it yourself. Record it on video like i did, clearly showing your pedals, and show what happens in the fanatec driver software for the pedals.

I would also suggest reading that page again as well, and my posts, because i have said every single time that its only from an initial boot of the well/pedals, or after the gaming system/computer has been rebooted. As the pedals and wheel loses its calibration data. Thus no longer been powered and connected.

But as i just suggested. Test it for yourself and record the results, Ultra3142 did, and they corroborated what I said.

Or you can keep waving your credentials in my face without actually testing it and screaming you are right. Ive shown it happening, and its also been corroborated by another user who like you initially stated i was wrong.

 

Also, please highlight where i have insulted you. i am genuinely curious.

 

Edited by Ialyrn

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Sorry, I am not wasting my time creating a video for this discussion.  I've done just such a disconnect or power off/on many, many times in the 4 months I've had the Fanatec hardware - the driver recognizes the pedals and wheel when they are connected, and remembers the calibration for the unit (after it has been set for the first time).  Simple, done, no rigamarole required.  I'm not waving credentials, I'm telling you that it works as I have described.

 

To everybody else besides lalyrn - if you're using Fanatec wheel/pedals, I suggest you try not calibrating every single time you turn on your computer and see if the system is indeed not calibrated properly or if it retains the initial calibration.  Try it yourselves, no need to take his/her word for it or mine.

Done.  Have a good day.

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5 minutes ago, Flash42G said:

Sorry, I am not wasting my time creating a video for this discussion.  I've done just such a disconnect or power off/on many, many times in the 4 months I've had the Fanatec hardware - the driver recognizes the pedals and wheel when they are connected, and remembers the calibration for the unit (after it has been set for the first time).  Simple, done, no rigamarole required.  I'm not waving credentials, I'm telling you that it works as I have described. 

I just checked with a close friend who owns fanatec hardware, and they corroborated what you said. I couldn't as them sooner, as they live in Australia. Though i did admit in a much earlier post that i dont have famatec hardware so couldnt test it myself and could inly make an assumption based on documentation and other things i had heard. This hole mess could have been resolved without this tit for tat if you had just got off your high horse and tested it and shown that test. Ive inly gotten argumentative because your been insufferable over your credentials. And i will freely admit that.

9 minutes ago, Flash42G said:

his/her word for it or mine.

I have to question why you specifically use "his/her" to refer to me also, instead of they/them. Which is the accepted pronouns to use when you don't know a persons gender. It kinda makes it feels like someone googled my username And found an insult that would hit home.

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1 hour ago, Ialyrn said:

I just checked with a close friend who owns fanatec hardware, and they corroborated what you said. I couldn't as them sooner, as they live in Australia. Though i did admit in a much earlier post that i dont have famatec hardware so couldnt test it myself and could inly make an assumption based on documentation and other things i had heard. This hole mess could have been resolved without this tit for tat if you had just got off your high horse and tested it and shown that test. Ive inly gotten argumentative because your been insufferable over your credentials. And i will freely admit that.

I have to question why you specifically use "his/her" to refer to me also, instead of they/them. Which is the accepted pronouns to use when you don't know a persons gender. It kinda makes it feels like someone googled my username And found an insult that would hit home.

So did you insist your friend record a video before you believed him? :classic_tongue:  There was no high horse, I just offered my experience and said it didn't match your absolute statement.  Anyway, we're good now, thanks.  I didn't mean for my statement to sound insufferable - I apologize.

Re "his/her" - that's been the traditional reference when a person's gender wasn't known, and I did not wish to presume or assume.  Absolutely no offence was intended, I was trying to avoid offence - I'm not familiar enough to be comfortable knowing when and how to use they/them.  No googling involved, and certainly no insult intended.  My apologies if I did cause offense, I will try to get the accepted pronoun usage correct in the future.

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For anyone who wants to know, 'their' is the alternative to his or her to use when the gender is unknown (e.g. 'their car' rather than 'his car' or 'her car').

It surprises me that his/her is so frequently written given there is already a simple word for such situations but it is still very commonly used; even amongst native English speakers. I think it stems from people used to always writing 'his' wanting a way to modify what they'd normally write and so see adding a '/her' as the logical way to do this.

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11 minutes ago, Ultra3142 said:

For anyone who wants to know, 'their' is the alternative to his or her to use when the gender is unknown (e.g. 'their car' rather than 'his car' or 'her car').

It surprises me that his/her is so frequently written given there is already a simple word for such situations but it is still very commonly used; even amongst native English speakers. I think it stems from people used to always writing 'his' wanting a way to modify what they'd normally write and so see adding a '/her' as the logical way to do this.

In part because though it is by no means a novelty, the acceptance of they/them/their as gender neutral singular pronouns has been bumpy and spotty until maybe the 2010s? I'd wager you'll still find style guides out there today that frown upon the usage considering it colloquial.

That's a habit I incorporated a long time ago but I think that's not what they were formally teaching when I was a kid back in the 90s.

 

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1 minute ago, marioho said:

In part because though it is by no means a novelty, the acceptance of they/them/their as gender neutral singular pronouns has been bumpy and spotty until maybe the 2010s? I'd wager you'll still find style guides out there today that frown upon the usage considering it colloquial.

That's a habit I incorporated a long time ago but I think that's not what they were formally teaching when I was a kid back in the 90s.

Teaching of English grammar in English schools was terrible in the 80's and 90's, with the approach taken being to largely assume everyone would just pick it up subconsciously by reading and writing. Generally, they didn't. I was at school during this period but made a conscious effort to improve my understanding when I later came to write my PhD thesis. I'm sure people who really understand this stuff would still despair at some of my efforts though!

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5 hours ago, Flash42G said:

So did you insist your friend record a video before you believed him? :classic_tongue:  There was no high horse, I just offered my experience and said it didn't match your absolute statement.  Anyway, we're good now, thanks.  I didn't mean for my statement to sound insufferable - I apologize. 

Ive known them a long time, so i trust their words. I did acknowledge earlier in this mess that i didnt know if it was the same for fanatec. But i let my annoyance override my better judgement as things devolved between us. So i apologise also.

5 hours ago, Flash42G said:

Re "his/her" - that's been the traditional reference when a person's gender wasn't known, and I did not wish to presume or assume.  Absolutely no offence was intended, I was trying to avoid offence - I'm not familiar enough to be comfortable knowing when and how to use they/them.  No googling involved, and certainly no insult intended.  My apologies if I did cause offense, I will try to get the accepted pronoun usage correct in the future. 

Im transgender with medically diagnosed gender dysphoria, which I dont hide from people, and it is stated in a couple of places on the Internet. His/her, he/she and it are often used as an insult and a way to invalidate transgender people, so it raises an eyebrow when it is used. Its good to see its just a general mix up on that front though, which is why i questioned it. I didnt want to just assume, but past experiences with random people have kinda made it a necessity to get clarification on intent. 😉

I have had people google me in the past, and then use it against me.

They/them/theirs are generally accepted the best pronouns to use currently when gender is not known, which lets face it, is an impossibility over a forum in most instances. Though for the record, my pronouns are she/her.

And yes, in the 90's it was really pushed to always use he/him/his or she/her in writing. There barely ever deviation from that. I remember actually getting marked down in english for using natural pronouns in places.

Though I think we are massively off topic now, and we should probably return to the content of helping the op with their issue.

 

 

 

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Today I learnt that my Fanatec gear is indeed as superior as I had presumed, and that words matter... both when attempting to follow written instructions and with respect to possessive pronouns.

Tune in next week for another episode of Massive Thread Derails 🤣

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Remember "Broken Telephone" from grade school?

"I have a dog named Spot."

...

"Attack helicopters landed in my back yard last night and kidnapped my neighbour, but mysteriously left me alive and unharmed."

Also, did the pedal test in the settings.  T300RS with standard pedal set.  The pedal is plugged into the wheel base, and the wheel base is plugged into the computer.  That never gets disconnected.

Started the game without touching any of the pedals.  Went to settings and slowly pressed each of the pedals.  As you can see in the video, they jump from about 40 to 100.  I pressed each all the way down, then released.  On the second press, the pedals were all good.  But on that first press, if I had been starting a race and feathering in the throttle, it would have jumped to 100% and I likely would have spun.

 

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Not that I want to re-open this riveting argument, I use the Fanatec CSL Elite wheel with the pedals that came as a bundle. I have noticed on occasion that, for example, I rejoin a race after a mid-session save the previous day, quite often my brakes will be non-existent on the first 1-2 turns (the car seems to over-rev and show little to no sign of slowing down), once this is corrected, I will spend the next 6-8 turns locking up my brakes with the slightest touch.  This does not happen every time.  It seems to be more apparent if I leave the game paused for a few minutes before starting/continuing.  

This is not a bug with the game as it happened on F1 2019.  

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