Struggling to make the turns

[Burnapp 0]

Hi Guys, 

 

I've just brought myself a wheel (Logitech g29) I'm really struggling to make the turns in F1 2020 some maps I'm okay on but some I really struggle with. Has anyone got any tips? Also struggle to get speed out of corners and not sure what to adjust on the Calibration? If anyone could help that would be much appreciated👍🏼

Edited August 3 by Burnapp

[Ultra3142 384]

In what way are you 'struggling to make the turns'? What's going wrong?

[Burnapp 0]

When I get to the corners I'm Either going very slow round them or I'm Over shooting it. I don't if I'm braking to late or too early 🤔 and then struggling to get pace out of the corners 

[Ultra3142 384]

So it sounds like you're more struggling to get used to the pedals than the actual wheel?

[Burnapp 0]

Yeah I think so, have you got any tips on how to improve or just keep practicing? 

[marioho 686]

It would be more helpful if you either linked for a few clips or were more thorough on your descriptions.

High speed corners, low speed cornes. Hairpins. Chicanes. Is the turn cambered or flat? Straight breaking zone or a swerving one from the likes of Bahrain and China? There are quite the bunch of factors weighing in here. For general tips I guess the best you could get would be one of those youtube tutorials for new wheel users.

[Burnapp 0]

I'm currently on the Singapore track and really struggling with it 

[Ultra3142 384]

1 minute ago, Burnapp said:

Yeah I think so, have you got any tips on how to improve or just keep practicing? 

You could Google to see if there are any recommended pedal calibration settings that might help but it does sound like practice is probably what you need most. I'd stick to a simple track you know we'll just to try to get the hang of it. Austria perhaps?

[Burnapp 0]

Yeah I think that's the best idea, yeah I love Austria I'm actually alright at that track. I'm struggling with the likes of Monaco and Singapore atm 

[marioho 686]

Try to self diagnose and narrow down the issues plus attach a couple gameplay clips if you can. Other than that it is as @Ultra3142 says, stick to a familiar track until you get the basics of driving with a wheel to a tee before moving on. 

[Burnapp 0]

Is it worth taking abs off and traction control, as I have traction control on medium and abs on 

[Ultra3142 384]

Just now, Burnapp said:

Is it worth taking abs off and traction control, as I have traction control on medium and abs on 

I'd leave them as they are personally, as right now I expect you'll just end up locking up and spinning off most if the time otherwise.

[marioho 686]

Haha not until you're feeling like the second come of Schumacher on those corners, mate! With assists the approach is the other way around: you keep them until you get good, then you turn them one – and one by one at that.

If you're struggling with the assists on you'll probably turn into a loaded freight train with them off.

[75Vette 509]

Couple of basic setup things to check before you worry about technique, particularly if this is your first wheel:

1) If you're on windows you can use the Logitech software to set wheel rotation to 360 degrees (or whatever you prefer, 270 to 360 is common). If it is still using the default 1080 you will have a very hard time in Formula cars. If you're on console I think you can reduce the saturation to achieve the same thing (someone on consoles chime in here).

2) If you're on windows use the control panel to check sure your throttle and brake are getting a full range of motion from 0 to 100%. On console skip to step 3.

3) Using F1 2020 you can calibrate your device (also where you set saturation and deadzone), this will let you check the game is seeing the correct range for your wheel and pedals. Also a good place to check you're not getting any residual throttle or brake when you lift off (press to 100% then rapidly lift your foot off and check the indication returns to 0. If it doesn't read 0 put a few percent of deadzone in it does each time you lift off. 

[janbonator 300]

4 hours ago, JesseDeya said:

Couple of basic setup things to check before you worry about technique, particularly if this is your first wheel:

1) If you're on windows you can use the Logitech software to set wheel rotation to 360 degrees (or whatever you prefer, 270 to 360 is common). If it is still using the default 1080 you will have a very hard time in Formula cars. If you're on console I think you can reduce the saturation to achieve the same thing (someone on consoles chime in here).

Saturation is at 0 as default in the game, just like 360 degree rotation for the wheel. I dropped mine to 270 on the G29, with saturation and linearity at 0.

The pedals are a real pain, especially the brake. Some say it's much better after removing some spring. I haven't tried. I would suggest the OP to go into the wheel calibration settings, and press the brake pedal like you normally would. Do you get 100% brake application? It's very hard to know with the pedal when it's pressed to the bottom and when it's not. You can try to add some saturation to the brakes as well as some linearity if you feel like you need it.

[75Vette 509]

2 minutes ago, janbonator said:

Saturation is at 0 as default in the game, just like 360 degree rotation for the wheel. I dropped mine to 270 on the G29, with saturation and linearity at 0.

The pedals are a real pain, especially the brake. Some say it's much better after removing some spring. I haven't tried. I would suggest the OP to go into the wheel calibration settings, and press the brake pedal like you normally would. Do you get 100% brake application? It's very hard to know with the pedal when it's pressed to the bottom and when it's not. You can try to add some saturation to the brakes as well as some linearity if you feel like you need it.

Sorry I meant increase the saturation.

Are you talking about console or PC?

On PC I don't see a way to set rotation, you have to do it with your controller's software. On console does the game automatically apply 360 degree rotation? Is there an in-game setting to control that?

[janbonator 300]

1 minute ago, JesseDeya said:

Sorry I meant increase the saturation.

Are you talking about console or PC?

On PC I don't see a way to set rotation, you have to do it with your controller's software. On console does the game automatically apply 360 degree rotation? Is there an in-game setting to control that?

Yes, indeed. Should have clarified that I was talking about console. All the wheel settings are in the game because on a console you don't get access to external software.

[Ialyrn 264]

10 minutes ago, JesseDeya said:

Sorry I meant increase the saturation.

Are you talking about console or PC?

On PC I don't see a way to set rotation, you have to do it with your controller's software. On console does the game automatically apply 360 degree rotation? Is there an in-game setting to control that?

Steering saturation in game on PC will reduce the rotation of the wheel, it also adds bump stops as you increase. So you can either lower it in the wheels software on PC, or you can lower it in game by increasing the steering saturation.

I would assume it is the same on consoles, but I can not confirm.

Also, the G29/G920 are only 900° wheels.

 

18 minutes ago, janbonator said:

The pedals are a real pain, especially the brake. Some say it's much better after removing some spring. I haven't tried.

I wouldnt advise this. A rubber stop was added on the G29 and G920 pedals, and was put in there by logitech to add some progressivness to the brake pedal. On the previsous logitech wheels (G25 and G27), the pedals didnt have this rubber stop added; but it was a very popular 3rd party mod that people would do themselves. I own a G27 and a G920, and I can tell you from personal experiance. I much prefer the G920 pedal set because of the rubber stop inside them. It stops you from over braking, and allows you to learn muscle memory for breaking much easier.

The way to get around the issue with the brake pedal, is to get a decent wheel stand. Something you can hard mount the pedals onto to stop them from moving around. Especially if you are on a tiled or wood floor. I personally recommened the GT Omega Classic wheel stand, as that is what I have personal experiance with; and it isnt overly expensive (£109 in the uk atm).
 

16 hours ago, Burnapp said:

Yeah I think that's the best idea, yeah I love Austria I'm actually alright at that track. I'm struggling with the likes of Monaco and Singapore atm 

It sounds like you are struggling with enclosed tracks that have lots of tight/slow corners, this is normal. F1 cars have very tight turning circles, so its normal to be fairly slow around the tigter corners. You will eventually pick up some speed in them, it will just take practice. I was struggling at first as well, especially with Monaco. Its probably the hardest track to master.

P.S to anyone with a wheel. When you first plug in your wheel to play a racing game. Make sure to press all your pedals fully before playing. The pedals do not self calibrate like the wheel does, and you must do this every time you plug your wheel in. If you dont, then the slightest touch of the pedals will register as 100%. Which will really mess up your braking more than anything. Mainly because the throttle and clutch tend to get pressed fully at race start, but the brake doesnt.

[Ultra3142 384]

2 minutes ago, Ialyrn said:

P.S. to anyone with a wheel. When you first plug in your wheel to play a racing game. Make sure to press all your pedals fully before playing. The pedals do not self calibrate like the wheel does, and you must do this every time you plug your wheel in. If you dont, then the slightest touch of the pedals will register as 100%. Which will really mess up your braking more than anything. Mainly because the throttle and clutch tend to get pressed fully at race start, but the brake doesnt.

I'm sorry but this simply isn't true. The vast majority of users don't do this (me included) and still actually manage to modulate brake and throttle levels just fine*. Maybe you've come across some particular situation where this happens but it is far from universal.

*As well as my modest skill levels allow anyway!

[janbonator 300]

3 minutes ago, Ialyrn said:

I wouldnt advise this. A rubber stop was added on the G29 and G920 pedals, and was put in there by logitech to add some progressivness to the brake pedal. On the previsous logitech wheels (G25 and G27), the pedals didnt have this rubber stop added; but it was a very popular 3rd party mod that people would do themselves. I own a G27 and a G920, and I can tell you from personal experiance. I much prefer the G920 pedal set because of the rubber stop inside them. It stops you from over braking, and allows you to learn muscle memory for breaking much easier.

The way to get around the issue with the brake pedal, is to get a decent wheel stand. Something you can hard mount the pedals onto to stop them from moving around. Especially if you are on a tiled or wood floor. I personally recommened the GT Omega Classic wheel stand, as that is what I have personal experiance with; and it isnt overly expensive (£109 in the uk atm).

Someone posted here a link for a company that produces custom parts for G29. Such as new springs for the pedals. I haven't tried, but if I hadn't ordered a new wheel set I would've tried those. My issue with the brake is that the traverse at the end is so short but yet so stiff. I don't really know if I'm at 80% or 100% on the brakes. I've used the G29 for about four years now. Before that I had a G27.

I'm using Next Level Racing F1GT, so the pedals are firmly planted. Well, there's a little bit of a flex when stomping the brakes but that's just because most of the pedal set is plastic.

[75Vette 509]

8 minutes ago, Ialyrn said:

Steering saturation in game on PC will reduce the rotation of the wheel, it also adds bump stops as you increase. So you can either lower it in the wheels software on PC, or you can lower it in game by increasing the steering saturation.

Yes, that's why I corrected myself.

8 minutes ago, Ialyrn said:

I would assume it is the same on consoles, but I can not confirm.

@janbonator already confirmed that you can set the rotation in game on console. Saturation almost certainly works the same way, though would be unnecessary for the wheel rotation axis if that can be adjusted separately.

 

8 minutes ago, Ialyrn said:

Also, the G29/G920 are only 900° wheels.

It's been while since I had a G25 or G27, good point. Either way, 1080 or 900 is completely unsuitable for F1.

Edited August 4 by JesseDeya

[Ialyrn 264]

28 minutes ago, Ultra3142 said:

I'm sorry but this simply isn't true. The vast majority of users don't do this (me included) and still actually manage to modulate brake and throttle levels just fine*. Maybe you've come across some particular situation where this happens but it is far from universal.

*As well as my modest skill levels allow anyway!

This is very true. Try it yourself. Ive been using wheels since 2000, from an old ms sidewinder ffb wheel, a logitech g27 and g920, a tm tx and t300. this has held true through all wheels i have owned and used.

 

Edit: this process is only needed when you first plug in the wheel or restart tue computer/console while the wheel is plugged in. As it wipes the calibration of the wheel and pedals. The wheel, been motorised, will self calibrate by rotating. The pedals are not motorised, which is why you have to self calibrate them manually when plugging them in or after restarting the computer.

If you leave your gaming system of choice powdered on perminently and keep the wheel attached constantly, you wont have to do this.

Edited August 4 by Ialyrn

[Ultra3142 384]

12 minutes ago, Ialyrn said:

This is very true. Try it yourself. Ive been using wheels since 2000, from an old ms sidewinder ffb wheel, a logitech g27 and g920, a tm tx and t300. this has held true through all wheels i have owned and used.

 

Edit: this process is only needed when you first plug in the wheel or restart tue computer/console while the wheel is plugged in. As it wipes the calibration of the wheel and pedals. The wheel, been motorised, will self calibrate by rotating. The pedals are not motorised, which is why you have to self calibrate them manually when plugging them in or after restarting the computer.

If you leave your gaming system of choice powdered on perminently and keep the wheel attached constantly, you wont have to do this.

I stand by my earlier comment. I do not leave my wheel and console permanently on. 

[Ialyrn 264]

2 hours ago, Ultra3142 said:

I stand by my earlier comment. I do not leave my wheel and console permanently on. 

Ive been at this sim racing malarky for 30 years, I have used a wheel almost redominantly for 20 of those years. What I state above has ALWAYS been the case in regards to calibrating the pedals, across multiple wheels from Logitech to Thrustmaster (and others), and across multiple platforms (games consoles and PC's). It is an accepted practice to depress all your pedals when you first plug in your wheel/pedals, as the pedals can not self calibrate. This is not opinion from me, it is simple fact. A fact I can prove very easily.
 

As you can see, at 50% of the physical pedal throw on all 3 pedals on my T3PA Pro's, they jumped to 100% activation in software. This continues to happen until all 3 pedals are pushed to 100% of their throw, after which all 3 pedals register correctly. This is because when they are first plugged in, the pedals are not calibrated. They have to be pressed to 100% to calibrate them, as said above, this is simple fact and not opinion from me.

The fact that you have not noticed this is here nor there, it is a simple fact of the hardware works. Load up any racing title and try it for yourself after just connecting your wheel, and you will find your wheels will lock up as you will be at 100% ingame usage of the brake with only a small amount of pressure. The only time you wouldnt notice this at all, is if you are using the ABS assist.

This is not a fault of my hardware, this happens on any pedal set on any gaming system. This has been true for the 20 years I have been using racing wheels, and it is accepted practice to manually calibrate the pedals in this way when you first plug in your wheel or turn on your computer. But feel free to stand by what you have said in response.

Edited August 4 by Ialyrn

[Ultra3142 384]

@Ialyrn your video is interesting and thanks for taking the time to record and share that . I responded to a very specific statement that you made though, which read to me (and I suspect others) that if people didn't do as you suggested that their pedals would be unusable which just isn't true. Hence my reply.

Is it possible that simply pushing the brake and accelerator pedals all the way down as soon as someone starts driving achieves the same thing without most people (like me!) ever noticing? Most people will have done this by turn one. Of course doing as you suggest would prevent any issue in the brief period before the first turn if it happened to be critical .

(I am currently using ABS as I'm learning. I've just about got to grips with manual gears now but haven't decided yet whether to next go for switching ABS off or going from medium traction control to that fully off. I don't use any other assists but I am still learning the tracks.)