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From Pad to Wheel with No Assists - Gradual or All out?

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After playing F1 games for a number of year I finally decided to make the jump to using a wheel this week. With this, also came a difficult decision. After reading online a number of suggestions I decided that with the transition I would also begin trying to play the game without assists. 

I was previously on Automatic, with High traction control ABS and low braking, so this was quite a jump over.

After a day or frustration on the wheel, I decided to put a few of the assists back on, but my question to everyone is should I just keep trying with no assists? I'd imagine once I get used to having assists on with the wheel i'll be back in my comfort zone again and won't move away from them. From what i've read it's about practice, practice, practice.. and i'm sure it will pay off. But I found myself sitting there last night thinking "I'm not even enjoying this" because it was so frustratingly difficult. 

Do people usually start moving the assists down instead, it seems like the more logical way to go I guess. 

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It depends on who you are talking to obviously ,I have time on my hands so I will drop in my tuppence for what its worth, Personally I think that people should work with the proper package and turn down the AI to 0/zero and then race but if you are going to improve you have to have a clear goal about what you are concentrating on or you will take an age to see any improvement ,just driving around aimlessly will not give any results.

 

If you decide to take your car test for a manual gearbox car in real life the instructor does not turn up with an automatic gearboxed car so that you can get used to things , because what's the point as if your going to have to drive a manual box then its best to train with a manual box from the get go and that is you going to train on a real public road with real problems. This is why I think it is just wasting time using assists ,When you train to drive a car in real life you do not hit your first roundabout and the instructor presses a button that makes green arrows appear on the road to make it easier to see where you are expected to go , so if its in a game where it does'nt matter if you get it wrong why use them there.

The first thing you need to do if you are using a wheel is set it up properly or you are wasting your time. Set the FFB levels quite high to have a car that grips the track well FFB strength should be over 100 and start with 50 on the others and in my opinion turn off understeer enhance as it feels bad and it isn't needed if you have a good FFB strength wheel rotation should always be 360 . Calibrate the wheel and make sure that your wheel gives you the feel when turning into a corner that you prefer,  do this by using more or less steering saturation ,if you start with 0/zero try a specific tightest corner at a track like Singapore Marina bay then add 10 as the setting for steering saturation ; which makes the wheels turn faster for the amount that you turn your steering wheel. Now go back to the same corner and feel how it feels turning into that corner , try different settings until you find the one that you like.

Your throttle and brake both benefit from having some free play in them , I  would start at about 15 with both and see how it feels , this free play means that for the throttle  it starts to work with your foot at a more comfortable position in order that you can control it better this helps a great deal when you turn off the Traction control so that the rear wheels are easy to control  without it ; you need to make the throttle less aggressive upto approximately 60% of its used travel , you do this by adding linearity to it . In F1 2020 my setting is 25 while in F1 2019 I have it set at 94 because the games react differently. With the free play and linearity making your throttle easier to control and less aggressive it makes the traction control turned to off seem like it is fully on , but you have to use the throttle in a different way , you apply it to set off or exiting a corner by pushing down slowly and smoothly until you reach about the half way point of the throttle then you must wait for the revs to build up to approx. Three quarters and then you can change gear and slam the throttle to full throttle to get maximum speed . Obviously you need to practise doing this to get a feel for controlling wheel spin etc and the basic rule is that once you get to between 50 to 70% throttle you can slam the throttle to the floor without it causing the back end to start breaking loose and causing you to spin out. This is the basics you have to learn by trial and error how to get the best traction.

Free play on the brake means that if you accidentally rest you foot on the pedal during a lap then you will not slow the car down unknowingly  and ruin your lap time . Setting up the brakes is fairly easy ,if you set linearity to 100 this makes your brake more progressive as you apply it this means when you press it at the start of the stroke it applys pressure more slowly and the further through its movement it moves faster, this has the effect of making your brake more controllable at your foot and so less likely that your brakes will lock up and the tyres skid and cause understeer as you approach a corner for example. There are three other ways to set your brakes up and these are 1. saturation (in calibration settings ) 2. Pressure 3 bias (both in car settings)  Adding saturation is the way to add a bit of aggression to the brake making stopping quicker but more chance of skidding , less pressure is less powerful ,less chance of skidding  , adding more pressure is faster stopping but more chance of skidding, The brake bias is used to control the balance of the car when moving depending on the track being grippy or slippery  . As a loose rule use upto 70% forward in dry grippy conditions and if its wet  more towards The back at 50% but moving the bias too far back will make the back of the car more likely to slide out (oversteer)

If you have ordinary non load cell pedals it is also better if you can make the brake pedal move less when you press it by adding a piece of rubber somewhere in the mechanism so that the pedal only moves about 1cm before it hits the rubber stopper ( this may not work depending on which pedal set you are using but is a big improvement if it does)  ,this makes your brake easier to control because with the setup in calibration , mainly free play and saturation and your choice of brake pressure in car settings you can fine tune the brake pedal to not lock up until you are pressing hard against the rubber stop that you added to you brake pedal to restrict its movement So if this is set up correctly when you apply the brakes you have complete control over them and the only chance of locking the brakes is when you hit the rubber block and press hard. Unless you are on a slippery track in which case you need to brake more carefully.

Pressure setting for the brake is straight forward and usually 50% for wet tracks and 70% to 80% for a potentiometer type pedal for dry tracks , this will give a brake that is less likely to lock up . You get more control by starting to prepare for braking by releasing the throttle completely and changing down the gears while lightly touching the brake than leaving braking to the last seconds  When you approach a corner you will see quite high up at the side of the track a black square this marker can be used from a distance so that you know it is time to think about slowing down for a corner , there are boards at the side of the track Starting 200/150 then 100 then finally 50 ,    In the dry you should start braking at approx. 100 and in the wet 200 to 150 depending on how slippery it is on track  obviously in the wet when you start braking you just lightly touch the brake pedal and very slowly  increase the movement  to avoid locking a wheel.

Another braking zone marker to use  is where the red and white rumble strips start  just before a corner ,  a lot of these give an excellent place to use as a braking point depending on conditions .

Now that you have the wheel and pedals working  well and easy to control you can practise driving around the tracks This is extremely important asif you do not know the track completely  it is impossible to drive fast.

That's the basic things to get you started so that driving without assists is as easy as possible

Now go to YouTube and find out how to drive a race car by a YouTube that has a channel called 'Driver 61'  he is a professional driver and will teach you everything you need to know about cornering and braking techniques and everything else. Good luck , it takes along time to learn , hours and hours of practise. Just keep going and remember to start with the AI set to Zero at first then when you can easily beat them move up to 10 then to 20 etc ,

Good Luck.

Also drive in cockpit cam right from the start  , go to camera options and turn off the halo strut.  I will allow that ; but do not follow the lead of all those fools who drive a car sat on the roof  being a buffoon isn't the way to go. Happy racing .

Edit: one last thing to help with the correct speed when you are going into a corner you must be in the correct gear , you can watch the AI on their laps in cockpit view during practise or in a replay to find out the best gear to be in at all the corners of the track this will help you slowdown to the right speed and get you out of the corner faster on acceleration ,you will find that if you approach a corner in The next gear up from that gear that you will most likely run wide at the corner because of your approach speed being higher in the taller gear ,when your skill improves you will be able to run in one gear higher and this will be when your lap times will improve dramatically.

When you race ,  for consistency you should be like a computer programme and always be changing up and down the gearbox at the same point on the track and be in the exactly the same gear specific to that corner (unless you are forced to change down because you get a shove from anther car) . By doing this you will find that you get into the zone and you can do other things like adjust your brake bias or your fuel and you do not have to think about when to change gear or brake or steering inputs as you will be running on auto pilot  like Ayrton S at Monaco .

Edited by Exasperated
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Personally I turned off abs and traction control (and racing line) all at once when I was using the controller. Learning how to actually drive those tracks without the racing line took enough time to get used to no assists. I also think you can easily turn off abs and traction control at the same time because they don't conflict. One applies during accelerating, the other during braking, so it's quite easy to get used to them at the same time. When I switched to a wheel I switched to manual gears. It might be smart to do it in the same order. Because first you have to think about shifting and carefully braking/accelarating, and having to do both at the same time might take a bit longer to get used to. But in the end, just try something and see if you like it.

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Turn everything off. It will be incredibly difficult for the first few hours but it is worth it. You will never be your fastest otherwise.

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I went straight in, but then again I've got loads of no assist experience on pad. 

 

I made this a while back, suggesting the order to turn off each assist in, hope it helps:

 

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Thanks so much for all the responses. Especially to 'Exasperated' for the detailed reply. I've calibrated the set-up and it feels a bit better now. 

I ended up just jumping into Austria with all assists off and grafted at it for 2 hours yesterday afternoon. I managed to get to a point where I was able to consistently get round the track, albeit rather slow (about 1:05), but definitely felt like I had made progress and could really feel myself getting better. There is alot for the brain to try and learn at once, trying to move into the correct gears for each corner whilst trying to ensure you don't spin off track etc.. but it's fun. 

I started to get a bit frustrated after a couple of hours as I was trying to beat my lap time and made stupid mistakes, so I decided to switch up what I was doing. I started a new career mode with the AI set to 60. Was looking forward to getting started... and this is where the problems began. Race Starts. Really cannot get the hang of them, despite watching youtube videos etc i'm losing a tonne of time with each start. Was tempted to put the assist on for it but refrained. Must have tried 30 or more starts yesterday, hopefully this will improve. 

Now, there were some more problems at this point. The first track of my career was at Austria and for some reason I seemed to have lost all control of the car again... I am wondering whether this was a phycological thing or wether F2 cars are more difficult? When I started my F1 career at Australia things seemed alot better (Qualified P1) and wasn't losing the car as much. 

The AI also make me want to cry at points, seems like they are breaking ridiculously early going into corners and I end up smashing into the back of them. 

Anyway, going to put in a few more hours today and will keep you posted on progress, really nice to hear peoples advice. Thanks again all. 

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38 minutes ago, CFCJDSW6 said:

I am wondering whether this was a phycological thing or wether F2 cars are more difficult?

The latter, F2 cars are tricker.

 

There's guides out there on YouTube  🙂 

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6 minutes ago, PJTierney said:

The latter, F2 cars are tricker.

 

There's guides out there on YouTube  🙂 

Watched all of your videos some time before actually purchasing the wheel. You're partly to blame for all this 😉 

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1 minute ago, CFCJDSW6 said:

Watched all of your videos some time before actually purchasing the wheel. You're partly to blame for all this 😉 

You might like this then:

 

 

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5 hours ago, CFCJDSW6 said:

Thanks so much for all the responses. Especially to 'Exasperated' for the detailed reply. I've calibrated the set-up and it feels a bit better now. 

I ended up just jumping into Austria with all assists off and grafted at it for 2 hours yesterday afternoon. I managed to get to a point where I was able to consistently get round the track, albeit rather slow (about 1:05), but definitely felt like I had made progress and could really feel myself getting better. There is alot for the brain to try and learn at once, trying to move into the correct gears for each corner whilst trying to ensure you don't spin off track etc.. but it's fun. 

I started to get a bit frustrated after a couple of hours as I was trying to beat my lap time and made stupid mistakes, so I decided to switch up what I was doing. I started a new career mode with the AI set to 60. Was looking forward to getting started... and this is where the problems began. Race Starts. Really cannot get the hang of them, despite watching youtube videos etc i'm losing a tonne of time with each start. Was tempted to put the assist on for it but refrained. Must have tried 30 or more starts yesterday, hopefully this will improve. 

Now, there were some more problems at this point. The first track of my career was at Austria and for some reason I seemed to have lost all control of the car again... I am wondering whether this was a phycological thing or wether F2 cars are more difficult? When I started my F1 career at Australia things seemed alot better (Qualified P1) and wasn't losing the car as much. 

The AI also make me want to cry at points, seems like they are breaking ridiculously early going into corners and I end up smashing into the back of them. 

Anyway, going to put in a few more hours today and will keep you posted on progress, really nice to hear peoples advice. Thanks again all. 

Its good that you are giving it a go and sticking it out because it is frustrating at first , as regards starting if you do a formation lap you can put up the car temps MFD page on the HUD and get your tyres up to working temps by spinning up the rears and scrubbing the fronts by cornering hard with a touch of brake and get your brakes hot ready for the first corner and rear tire temps will help grip at the start . The best start is under fairly low revs , you can rev until you make the clutch image on screen lights up white and hold it or try hold the revs so that the middle part of the rev LED's are lit up and are just about to start to light up the high rev blue ones . The way to get away the fastest is to make sure you are releasing the clutch at exactly the same time as the light is about to go out not after it has gone out  . As you let the clutch out rapidly don't throttle hard just gently to start the car moving then once the car is moving short shift to 2nd then accelerate to 3/4 revs in second and up into third (push your button to deploy the extra power from the ERS now if you have a clear path if not probably better to just use no ERS deployment) you should have full grip by now and its time to accelerate hard and short shift very rapidly  time wise about every 2 seconds to whatever gear gets you near to your braking point for the first corner then rapid downshifts under braking

When you start your formation lap put up the MFD page that has fuel and ERS and quickly put your fuel to lean , as you are nearing the point where the game takes control of you car turn up the fuel to Rich mix if its dry but in the wet you may consider having it on lean for less power at the rear wheels to help stop them spinning up

On a dry track a Rich fuel mix and as much ERS deployment that you can get away with if you are amongst the pack is the extra boost that can move you through the field.

 

Edited by Exasperated

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Haven't given up on this but unfortunately haven't had a chance to play again with it being the weekend & valentines I couldn't really bring all the gear out and start playing. Should have some time this afternoon and will put in a few more hours. 

Out of interest, when playing in Career would it be advisable to play with or without flashbacks on? I find myself going faster with flashbacks on as i'm less worried about making mistakes, but would be dead slow with them turned off to avoid the risk of crashing out. 

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2 hours ago, CFCJDSW6 said:

Haven't given up on this but unfortunately haven't had a chance to play again with it being the weekend & valentines I couldn't really bring all the gear out and start playing. Should have some time this afternoon and will put in a few more hours. 

Out of interest, when playing in Career would it be advisable to play with or without flashbacks on? I find myself going faster with flashbacks on as i'm less worried about making mistakes, but would be dead slow with them turned off to avoid the risk of crashing out. 

If you have a garden space It would be worth putting in a small shed and super insulate it and connect electricity to it ,playing driving games within sight or sound of your girlfriend ,  you may as well be practising electric guitar riffs from a Marilyn Manson tune. ......" The Beautiful people , the Beautiful people"

Regarding using the rewind button I don't because there aren't that many assignable buttons on my wheel for console use and so I haven't got the space to have it even if I wanted it , every button is assigned to something to control the car like the pit panel , radio or MFD functions but if you don't care about that or you have a button box on a PC game then put it on . I don't like stuff like that, look back ,change camera , imagine pressing that by accident and. Getting end plate view left or whatever they have in the middle of a crucial overtake at the end of a race lasting twenty minutes or more. At the end everything is your call if you want realism don't have it, if you hate massive frustration when the AI rams you off the track out of nowhere in a Chicane then its probably essential. Have a good race .Regards.

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I’ve got a couple of spare rooms so eventually could look to set-up something more permanent in one of those in the future. 
 

I did put the re-wind functionality on. Reason being I found it good to practice overtakes etc on the AI (which can be completely unpredictable). 
 

I completed a race at Mexico on 30% AI and won by a large margin this evening without making any mistakes, which was a good feeling as last week I couldn’t get around the track without assists.

Moving from a pad with all of the assists on to a wheel with no assists really is like learning a completely different game and I feel like i’ve gone back to square 1 all over again. However, i’m really enjoying it. I can feel my progress for every hour or so I put in. I do not regret taking the assists off and appreciate all the advice and feedback.

So far i’ve probably put about 8hrs in over 3/4 days and am up to 30% AI. It is likely that I won’t be at a decent pace on this game, it might be F1 2021 before I am!

 

I think the pace will hopefully come. I’m just going to keep going through Career mode and upping the AI every time I feel i need to  

 

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1 hour ago, CFCJDSW6 said:

I’ve got a couple of spare rooms so eventually could look to set-up something more permanent in one of those in the future. 
 

I did put the re-wind functionality on. Reason being I found it good to practice overtakes etc on the AI (which can be completely unpredictable). 
 

I completed a race at Mexico on 30% AI and won by a large margin this evening without making any mistakes, which was a good feeling as last week I couldn’t get around the track without assists.

Moving from a pad with all of the assists on to a wheel with no assists really is like learning a completely different game and I feel like i’ve gone back to square 1 all over again. However, i’m really enjoying it. I can feel my progress for every hour or so I put in. I do not regret taking the assists off and appreciate all the advice and feedback.

So far i’ve probably put about 8hrs in over 3/4 days and am up to 30% AI. It is likely that I won’t be at a decent pace on this game, it might be F1 2021 before I am!

 

I think the pace will hopefully come. I’m just going to keep going through Career mode and upping the AI every time I feel i need to  

 

A permanent set up is the way it needs to be and a rig is the best because then everything is tight and does'nt start moving around when things get hairy and you are correcting a rear end slapper exiting a corner . If its set up and waiting to go you will use it a lot more because you can just jumps in and do a quick 5 lap race with a one shot qualifying when you have time which will speed up your improvement. Sounds like you are well on the way if you are winning easily at a track like Mexico  In such a short time , I see you tried dropping down on the AI ,when you said you were at 60 earlier I thought it might be a little bit challenging with no TCS . If you move up the levels progressively you will improve faster than if you pit yourself against the hard AI straight away. And you will not feel demoralised because you will have a chance of doing well, and that makes you want to get back in and go again , instead of feeling like you are failing. Considering  how snappy and vicious the rear diff  is in 2020 it seems like you have it sorted and just need to put the miles in to hone your skills.

Enjoy yourself.

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Thought i'd drop by and give an update as it's been a while. I've been mega busy with work in the last week or so have only had a couple of chances to play. 

In my career mode I had a good run of tracks that I am good at and was beating the AI at 60% with ease, but still find this a challenging difficulty at some other tracks. I'd say i'm at 65% ish now on average. There are so many different parts to this game when you move from a controller with most assists on, and each part i'm individually trying to improve on each time I play and I think it slowly does come together, however it clearly takes a long time to improve, patience is the goal. 

Driving in the rain is an absolute disaster for me, i've watched some of PJ's videos last night on this and am hoping that short shifting should help me out a bit. Race starts i'm also getting better at but think there are a few techniques I can improve on. 

The most difficult thing for me is just working out the ideal racing line for each track with the assist off, the dynamic racing line is far from optimal, but it's going to take time to learn and even the detail of which gears to take certain corners in. 

One thing I did find out last night, is about Ranked online lobbies, I really enjoyed playing online but was only doing Un-ranked, so I might give this a go today. 

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Nobody becomes an expert quickly, but it's good to see you're making progress 🙂 

 

I've been playing racing games for over 20 years and still have a lot to learn myself 😉 

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Posted (edited)
On ‎3‎/‎1‎/‎2021 at 11:22 AM, CFCJDSW6 said:

Thought i'd drop by and give an update as it's been a while. I've been mega busy with work in the last week or so have only had a couple of chances to play. 

In my career mode I had a good run of tracks that I am good at and was beating the AI at 60% with ease, but still find this a challenging difficulty at some other tracks. I'd say i'm at 65% ish now on average. There are so many different parts to this game when you move from a controller with most assists on, and each part i'm individually trying to improve on each time I play and I think it slowly does come together, however it clearly takes a long time to improve, patience is the goal. 

Driving in the rain is an absolute disaster for me, i've watched some of PJ's videos last night on this and am hoping that short shifting should help me out a bit. Race starts i'm also getting better at but think there are a few techniques I can improve on. 

The most difficult thing for me is just working out the ideal racing line for each track with the assist off, the dynamic racing line is far from optimal, but it's going to take time to learn and even the detail of which gears to take certain corners in. 

One thing I did find out last night, is about Ranked online lobbies, I really enjoyed playing online but was only doing Un-ranked, so I might give this a go today. 

Sounds like its all coming together well , but I think you need to up your difficulty, I just went to Austria tonight on AI 110 ultimate no assists cockpit view with halo strut and came 10th in a racing point  from 12th on the grid  with a best lap time of 108.88 ;1st and 2 put in best laps of around 104.8 so your best lap of 105 when you just started with no assists is pretty good going i'd say , time to move up. Have a blast ,keep up the good work.

When the track is wet and the forecast is an all wet race your car setup needs masses of downforce and mechanical grip by using soft springs and ARB's and very low tyre pressures , lean fuel settings at the start and in the corners if its not causing your power unit problems and max toe settings can be of use as well as having a more locked diff both on and off throttle but not too much off throttle  as it will have a tendency to push you off line while in a corner , if you make these setups then racing in the wet can actually be to your advantage if you use good balanced throttle control in the corners as little use of the brakes as you can get away with and coast while changing down the box on corner entry ( slower than in the dry or its like briefly putting a hand brake on in the wet each time you drop down a gear which unsettles the car)  and make the most  of the straights by using a rich fuel mix and thrashing it as much as you can get away with ,but leave plenty of slowing down distance before the corner keeping the car under control at the corner and being slower there will save more time than squirming around fighting the the back or front of the car because you are trying to go too fast there, slow down to go faster.

If the race is wet ,dry ,wet , dry etc then run a balanced set up on wings and suspension or you will pay heavily if you end up on dry tyres with a high downforce set up if there is a long period on those tyres.

Edited by Exasperated

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Thanks for the advice there - I've actually completely ignored doing set-up's for any race so far - which could well be why i'm finding wet weather and certain tracks extremely challenging! I was playing yesterday and still struggled in wet weather, so will see if increasing downforce helps me out. 

I've had a little play of multiplayer yesterday and I feel like I was still way off where I was with a controller running all assists, but again, patience. 

Watched PJ's video on turning off the racing line again today - that feels like it's going to be the most difficult thing to turn off but really important if you want to be able to race. I have become way too reliant on the racing line to give me my breaking zones, when there is a car ahead it becomes difficult to judge and you end up smashing into the back of them. I feel like i've really got to get this turned off to kick this habit, which is probably the worst! 

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, CFCJDSW6 said:

Thanks for the advice there - I've actually completely ignored doing set-up's for any race so far - which could well be why i'm finding wet weather and certain tracks extremely challenging! I was playing yesterday and still struggled in wet weather, so will see if increasing downforce helps me out. 

I've had a little play of multiplayer yesterday and I feel like I was still way off where I was with a controller running all assists, but again, patience. 

Watched PJ's video on turning off the racing line again today - that feels like it's going to be the most difficult thing to turn off but really important if you want to be able to race. I have become way too reliant on the racing line to give me my breaking zones, when there is a car ahead it becomes difficult to judge and you end up smashing into the back of them. I feel like i've really got to get this turned off to kick this habit, which is probably the worst! 

In a wet race a good set up makes the car drive almost like it does in the dry albeit much slower because of the extra drag caused , it is absolutely essential if you want half a chance of racing properly in the wet and for that matter in the dry although you can get away with  basic set up more easily in the dry. Enjoy

Turning off the racing line will be the best thing you do , you can see on the track where the cars go by looking at the track surface and you can see where they start braking because the track is darker in colour where the tyres have scrubbed off rubber under braking.

Use the markers at the side of the track 100 in the dry,  150 in the wet and see your braking zone from a distance by looking to the black square marker high up at the side of the track near the corner.

Edited by Exasperated
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I had the same questions this years game,went finally to a wheel after 3 years on the pad. I had a wheel back in the days for Grand Prix 3 and upcomimg F1 games,but in between i got rid of it,so now i am back as well.

It has been a lot of laps until I have beaten my pad lap times,but the point will come where you are comfortable with the wheel.

Manual shifting again is so much fun,being sensitive on the throttle,focus all race long. I have to say I am really kind of exhausted when i finish the 50% race trying not to do any mistakes.

But once you are in you are more than happy when you watch your race highlights.

Enjoy mate

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Had a bit of a play today and decided to record and save a lap at Monza to share and see why i’m still so slow, is it the racing line? Am i getting something badly wrong? 
 

https://youtu.be/0lPJKezH9V4

 

Anyway, i’m happy enough with the progress learning without assists. But I think the one holding me back most is the racing line. I find that with it on i’m not actually racing, i’m just following the line and I don’t really see the fun in that. It’s also so difficult for me to race against the AI without crashing as I rely so much on the line. 

I had got upto 70/75 AI for most tracks, but just felt like I wasn’t getting much further. I’ve got a new plan which I hope will keep the game enjoyable, challenging and help me progress. 

I’ve just started a new season in my Career and i’ve decided to now turn off flashbacks and turn off the racing line. I’ll do more practice for each track and i’ve changed the Qualifying to Short instead of one-shot. By doing this, I’m hoping that it will improve my all-round gameplay. 

With these changes, i’ll have to take my time and not take any huge risks. This is probably the steepest learning curve of the lot. So it’s back down to 20% AI for now and see how it goes. 
 

 

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, CFCJDSW6 said:

Had a bit of a play today and decided to record and save a lap at Monza to share and see why i’m still so slow, is it the racing line? Am i getting something badly wrong? 
 

https://youtu.be/0lPJKezH9V4

 

Anyway, i’m happy enough with the progress learning without assists. But I think the one holding me back most is the racing line. I find that with it on i’m not actually racing, i’m just following the line and I don’t really see the fun in that. It’s also so difficult for me to race against the AI without crashing as I rely so much on the line. 

I had got upto 70/75 AI for most tracks, but just felt like I wasn’t getting much further. I’ve got a new plan which I hope will keep the game enjoyable, challenging and help me progress. 

I’ve just started a new season in my Career and i’ve decided to now turn off flashbacks and turn off the racing line. I’ll do more practice for each track and i’ve changed the Qualifying to Short instead of one-shot. By doing this, I’m hoping that it will improve my all-round gameplay. 

With these changes, i’ll have to take my time and not take any huge risks. This is probably the steepest learning curve of the lot. So it’s back down to 20% AI for now and see how it goes. 
 

 

You definitely need to get rid of the track arrows and drive without it , that line and its braking points  is the same as the AI uses and you don't and cannot  drive like they do. If you watch the videos then you can learn the lines that the pros use and see where they coast etc at the corners . In F1 2020 the gearbox has been changed from other years and it means you cannot just run through the gears on the down changes at any speed you like as it crashes the box . This is what it sounds like is happening in your video because you are cramming your down changes into a small braking window because you are following the colours of the assist line I pressume , also you seem yo be weaving from side to side abit more than necessary sometimes.. In real life they can down change much quicker and cleaner than in the game.

Any way you know what you are doing you just need more practice time and to study videos that are on you tube etc. Happy lappy . Regards.

For some dumb ass reason this wont embed but here it is  https://youtu.be/2f1PtJV0vls  Title is  'The fastest lap in F1 history - Lewis Hamilton pole lap l 2020 Italian GP if you want to Google it.  also ' How to Master the Monza F1 Track l Nico Rosberg  also on YouTube.

SEE NEXT POST.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Exasperated

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Posted (edited)

 

 

 

I knew that the game would end up influencing the real F1 drivers and these videos show what can happen.
Its not surprising Hamilton has managed to set the fastest time ever when he is using T- Cam to drive in , I told you it was much faster than cockpit view.

 

Edited by PJTierney
Fixed embeds. youtu.be won't work but a URL with youtube.com will.

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Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, Exasperated said:

 

 

 

I knew that the game would end up influencing the real F1 drivers and these videos show what can happen.
Its not surprising Hamilton has managed to set the fastest time ever when he is using T- Cam to drive in , I told you it was much faster than cockpit view.

 

Thanks for that @PJTierney you are a good man. All your help you give on these  Forums for the players, I hope you are receiving proper remuneration. Have a most excellent race or stage. Regards and much respect to you.

Edited by Exasperated

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On 3/24/2021 at 2:08 PM, Exasperated said:

Thanks for that @PJTierney you are a good man. All your help you give on these  Forums for the players, I hope you are receiving proper remuneration.

Have a most excellent race or stage. Regards and much respect to you.

Thanks 🙂 

 

This was a 30 second fix and now you know what to do next time you share a video ❤️ 

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