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Load Cell Brake Issues


JSilly21

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Hi guys I'm having an issue with my load cell brakes. I use the perfect pedal hydraulic load cell mod to the G27 pedals. These work perfectly in every other game I play. Assetto Corsa, iRacing, ACC etc

The issue I'm having is the game doesn't seem to recognize the full range of the pedals. It will register my initial brake hit at 100% no problem there, but when I bleed the pressure off it will immediately drop to ~15% or typically 0%. This results in blowing the corner because I can't accurately modulate the pressure after my initial pedal application. The game isn't accurately registering lighter brake pressures.

I've adjusted the saturation to fine tune the 100% max value to where I'd like, but I'm at a loss to dial in the modulation issue. It's essentially unplayable at the moment. Is there a setting I'm missing, or a file that I can manually edit?

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20 hours ago, JSilly21 said:

No ideas? Is there a file I can edit? The game seems to only pick up pedal ranges above 80%, it's like theres a massive deadzone. This is the only game that has this issue.

Did you try all the calibration settings at 0 zero , have you tried unplugging your pedals and resetting the basic stuff , did you try deleting the game from your system then doing  a re install to start a fresh.

If it doesn't work just get a set of pedals with a potentiometer brake and tune it in calibration. My potentiometer brake behaves in game  exactly the same as a real hydraulic brake does with full progression from start to end of stroke and locks up in the way a real brake does in similar conditions. It couldn't be any more controllable.

 

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34 minutes ago, Exasperated said:

Did you try all the calibration settings at 0 zero , have you tried unplugging your pedals and resetting the basic stuff , did you try deleting the game from your system then doing  a re install to start a fresh.

If it doesn't work just get a set of pedals with a potentiometer brake and tune it in calibration. My potentiometer brake behaves in game  exactly the same as a real hydraulic brake does with full progression from start to end of stroke and locks up in the way a real brake does in similar conditions. It couldn't be any more controllable.

 

I've tried the settings at 0 and the pedals were unplugged. I'll try a fresh install.

Definitely won't be going back to a potentiometer pedal set though.

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I can only suggest you use the pedals with the default files. Delete any custom control schemes in the game and verify Steam files.

Set all the brake deadzone, saturation and linearity options to 0.

Calibrate the controller in Windows after installing GHub. Also, PCARS2 if you have it modifies some settings for Logitech wheels - search the forums for the appropriate threads.

If the wheel and particularly the brake pedal don't register well in these apps then check there's no trapping or loose cables inside the pedalset. Particularly with regard to the installation instructions and the Bodnar instructions if you're using an adaptor (I expect it would have gone poof by now).

Check for travel and smoothness, set deadzone first.

Saturation will give you the desired 100% activation with your comfortable level of foot pressure (most play in socks TBF), you should not need to add a high level of saturation. More sat=less pedal pressure required.

Linearity then gives you the finer adjustment between light and progressive pressure, but with a LC the progression should be pretty much in the LC itself. If it isn't nice, I'd suggest talking to PerfectPedal.

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3 hours ago, steviejay69 said:

I can only suggest you use the pedals with the default files. Delete any custom control schemes in the game and verify Steam files.

Set all the brake deadzone, saturation and linearity options to 0.

Calibrate the controller in Windows after installing GHub. Also, PCARS2 if you have it modifies some settings for Logitech wheels - search the forums for the appropriate threads.

If the wheel and particularly the brake pedal don't register well in these apps then check there's no trapping or loose cables inside the pedalset. Particularly with regard to the installation instructions and the Bodnar instructions if you're using an adaptor (I expect it would have gone poof by now).

Check for travel and smoothness, set deadzone first.

Saturation will give you the desired 100% activation with your comfortable level of foot pressure (most play in socks TBF), you should not need to add a high level of saturation. More sat=less pedal pressure required.

Linearity then gives you the finer adjustment between light and progressive pressure, but with a LC the progression should be pretty much in the LC itself. If it isn't nice, I'd suggest talking to PerfectPedal.

Thanks Stevie, I appreciate the thoroughness here. I'm doing a fresh install tonight and I'll start with default values for everything. I'll also try recalibrating the pedals in GHub. They work perfectly in ACC, AC and iRacing, so I suspect it's something funky with F1 2020.

Thanks again

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On 3/30/2021 at 10:02 AM, steviejay69 said:

Be sure to update us 🙂

Fresh install seemed to help a bit, but it's probably more down to me drastically altering my technique. It's playable, but definitely not ideal. I sincerely appreciate the help though.

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16 hours ago, JSilly21 said:

Fresh install seemed to help a bit, but it's probably more down to me drastically altering my technique. It's playable, but definitely not ideal. I sincerely appreciate the help though.

LC does take a period of adjustment after a simple spring, but it's still about muscle memory at the end of the day.

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