Jump to content

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Logitech Driving Force GT - Recommended FFB Settings

Recommended Posts

I really admire You guys!

I bought DFGT just for dirt rally, it's my first serious wheel with FFB, and i was playing dirt rally on default settings thinking "okay, wheel turns, it even comes back, yay! everything works!", but these settings in this topic just blew my mind and experiences are way better now!

I'm using combination from OzoreXS and TuliRally, great work mates :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm using setting like this:

Logitech Profiler:
Over effects : 107%
All other are 0%
540 degree of rotation.
Allow game to adjust...

In Game:
Deadzones 0%
Saturations 100%
Linearity 0%
Soft Lock On
Center Steering On

SAT : 130%
WF : 10%
TF: 35%
Susp: 110%
TS: 85%
Coll: 100%
SL: 150%
SCF: 150%

And only thing that bothers me is going out of hairpin is tough, it's hard to turn wheel, same with some small corrections. But it's still way better than default, so i have no complains :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You can drop the Overall Effects in the profiler to alter that a bit.  

107 is a 'magic-number' value used for the other wheels in the range, with two motors, as it decreases the 'no-mans-land' between the motors.  The DFGT only has one motor so you dont need that value so just high

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Have any of you noticed difference in FFB using Softlock to set rotation (lets say like 720 that some cars have) than having the same rotation from profiler without softlock. I think it feels different,  but i'm not sure if i just imagine it..

@Noico if you havent tried might i suggest you also try having Spring and damper on 100% at least damper. I also drive now with OES 101% 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
@TuliRally 
If you set a locked degrees in driver, lets say 540º just like @noico did, you need to disable soft lock option. Otherwise you will face too much responsive steering in cars with low lock (2010,...etc) and you will need to decrease linearity below 0.

The pending asignature is still the return of the wheel to the center position when exiting hairpins and driving straightline... I dont like the autocenter feature of the driver because it will return the wheel to center always and fades the overall FFB effects. So yeah, its weak.

@KevM - After trying a wide range of values for OES I feel a good setting around 105/110 just because it removes the stupid center deadzone DFGT has

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OzoreXS said:
@TuliRally 
If you set a locked degrees in driver, lets say 540º just like @noico did, you need to disable soft lock option. Otherwise you will face too much responsive steering in cars with low lock (2010,...etc) and you will need to decrease linearity below 0.

The pending asignature is still the return of the wheel to the center position when exiting hairpins and driving straightline... I dont like the autocenter feature of the driver because it will return the wheel to center always and fades the overall FFB effects. So yeah, its weak.

@KevM - After trying a wide range of values for OES I feel a good setting around 105/110 just because it removes the stupid center deadzone DFGT has
I feel difference even if

Lancia stratos (has 900 degrees)
Profiler 900 degrees, softlock ON
Vs.
Profiler 900 degrees, softlock OFF 

Or bmw (has 720 degrees)
Profiler 900 degrees, Softlock ON
Vs.
Profiler 720 degrees, Softlock OFF

I feel that with softlock OFF it is more responsive etc.

I would like to drive with correct rotation for each car, but maybe i have to do it manually. Unless i am just imagineing it (difference)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I was meesing around (again... :relieved: ) with the FFB have a look to my new settings:
(first post updated)

INGAME
Advanced wheel options:
  Steering Saturation = 100%
  Steering linearity = 0
  Deadzones = 0%
  Soft lock = ON
  Center steering = ON
Vibration & feedback:
  SAT = 140%
  Wheel friction = 30% (adds some dead weight that I dont like)
  Tyre friction = 60% (adds some feeling of pressure of the tyres against the surface such understeering revealer or differentials acting)
  Suspension = 110% (adds some vibrations from the surface that I like; it provides immersion)
  Tyre slip = 90% (adds some slight vibrations from the wheels under skidding condition)
  Collision = 100% (purely intended when you crash into trees, banks, traffic signals, poles,...)
  Soft lock = 150% (helps to show a bit clearly where is the wheel lock limit when using cars that has a lock below 900º)
  Steering Center Force = 150% (when you restart the car, this autocenter the wheel)
LOGITECH PROFILER
√ Use special force feedback device settings
    Overal Effects Strenght = 107
    Spring Effect Strenght = 111 
    Damper Effect Strenght = 50
□ Enable centering spring (disabled)
   Centering spring strenght = 0
√ Use special steering wheel settings
  □ Report combined pedals (disabled)
      Degrees of rotation = 900º
√ Use special game settings
  √ Allow game to adjust settings


Since V2 FFB is a bit weaker than V1, I need to raise some effects.

I set SAT at 140, resulting in more powerfull countersteerings and direction changes.
I added a bit of wheel friction too, adds an intersting weight to the wheel.
Raised tyre friction to 60 in order to get a much more clear understeering effect.

Then in profiler:
Added SES @ 111%. Helps in combination with SAT it brings a better and smother movement.
Added DES @ 50%. Helps to remove that raw/loose feeling of the previous settings but not sacrificing canned effects such suspension vibrations and tyre slip.

Definitely, V2 physics requires different FFB parameters.

Hope you will like them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
oh man, with this setup i will need to use gloves... my wheel is all sweaty after few stages!

too hard for my liking, but i will have to do more test than just dozen of stages :)

keep it up, great thread!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OzoreXS said:
I was meesing around (again... :relieved: ) with the FFB have a look to my new settings:
(first post updated)

INGAME
Advanced wheel options:
  Steering Saturation = 100%
  Steering linearity = 0
  Deadzones = 0%
  Soft lock = ON
  Center steering = ON
Vibration & feedback:
  SAT = 140%
  Wheel friction = 30% (adds some dead weight that I dont like)
  Tyre friction = 60% (adds some feeling of pressure of the tyres against the surface such understeering revealer or differentials acting)
  Suspension = 110% (adds some vibrations from the surface that I like; it provides immersion)
  Tyre slip = 90% (adds some slight vibrations from the wheels under skidding condition)
  Collision = 100% (purely intended when you crash into trees, banks, traffic signals, poles,...)
  Soft lock = 150% (helps to show a bit clearly where is the wheel lock limit when using cars that has a lock below 900º)
  Steering Center Force = 150% (when you restart the car, this autocenter the wheel)
LOGITECH PROFILER
√ Use special force feedback device settings
    Overal Effects Strenght = 107
    Spring Effect Strenght = 111 
    Damper Effect Strenght = 50
□ Enable centering spring (disabled)
   Centering spring strenght = 0
√ Use special steering wheel settings
  □ Report combined pedals (disabled)
      Degrees of rotation = 900º
√ Use special game settings
  √ Allow game to adjust settings


Since V2 FFB is a bit weaker than V1, I need to raise some effects.

I set SAT at 140, resulting in more powerfull countersteerings and direction changes.
I added a bit of wheel friction too, adds an intersting weight to the wheel.
Raised tyre friction to 60 in order to get a much more clear understeering effect.

Then in profiler:
Added SES @ 111%. Helps in combination with SAT it brings a better and smother movement.
Added DES @ 50%. Helps to remove that raw/loose feeling of the previous settings but not sacrificing canned effects such suspension vibrations and tyre slip.

Definitely, V2 physics requires different FFB parameters.

Hope you will like them.
hello ozores :)

thanks for sharing this settings, they are veryvery good ^_^

it seems that in my profiler some settings are missing, or i'm just dumb :D  watch this picture:

http://s17.postimg.org/jtnmkqbdr/Cattura.png




Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Your profiler looks exactly like mine (despite language), everything is good from what i see.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OzoreXS said:
Definitely, V2 physics requires different FFB parameters.

Hope you will like them.
There is no point messing with ffb at the moment because codies is yet to update the ffb regarding the v2 cars. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
antz360 said:
OzoreXS said:
Definitely, V2 physics requires different FFB parameters.

Hope you will like them.
There is no point messing with ffb at the moment because codies is yet to update the ffb regarding the v2 cars. 
Pointless? Why? 
If game changes we will search again for new settings, but meanwhile we need to get decent settings to play.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I tried OzoreXS setting with 900 degree and everything set as You posted it, soft lock ON and it feels better (than with 540*), so it's good for me.

One thing i don't understand is how Soft Lock works, what should it do? I tried 2010 mini, 70s kadett, gr. b rs200 and gr. a delta (on finland, different stages, like it matters...) and every single one of them had (still has i guess) 900degree turning ability. From what i understood some cars in real life have 540* instead of 900* and Soft Lock option should lock my sterring wheel into 540degree rotation, isn't that right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
noico said:
I tried OzoreXS setting with 900 degree and everything set as You posted it, soft lock ON and it feels better (than with 540*), so it's good for me.

One thing i don't understand is how Soft Lock works, what should it do? I tried 2010 mini, 70s kadett, gr. b rs200 and gr. a delta (on finland, different stages, like it matters...) and every single one of them had (still has i guess) 900degree turning ability. From what i understood some cars in real life have 540* instead of 900* and Soft Lock option should lock my sterring wheel into 540degree rotation, isn't that right?
You are right, but you need to activate soft lock in advanced wheel options. In FFB you just can change "how hard" you will find the limit when you reach the maximum steering ratio...unless obviously, the car has 900º :)

Despite soft lock, many times I exceed the turning xD... soft lock cant put enough force against my rush moves

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
yeah, just like i wrote, i have it turned ON (activated). Which car for example has way less than 900degree?  Maybe it's just my luck and i tried all the cars that have 900degrees hehehe

Edit: All of the cars i mentioned in the middle of stage i stopped and (while game was running - no pause) turn easily wheel, to find that lock, but no luck :/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1080 degrees

  • FIAT 131 Abarth

900 degrees

  • Mini Cooper S
  • Lancia Fulvia HF
  • Ford Escort Mk II
  • Lancia Stratos
  • Peugeot 205 T16 Evo 2
  • Lancia Delta S4
  • MG Metro 6R4
  • Peugeot 205 T16 Pikes Peak

720 degrees

  • Audi Sport Quattro Rallye
  • Ford RS200
  • Ford Sierra Cosworth RS500
  • BMW E30 M3 Evo Rally
  • Lancia Delta HF Integrale
  • Ford Escort RS Cosworth
  • Subaru Impreza 1995
  • Audi Sport Quattro S1 Pikes Peak
  • Peugeot 405 T16 Pikes Peak

540 degrees

  • Ford Fiesta RS Rally Car
  • Mini Countryman Rally Edition

(coypasta from FFB update... now we have a lot more cars)

Make sure the car is in motion when you try to find the lock, when stationary I think theres no difference... cant remember now.

And, in FFB options make sure "  Steering Center Force" is @ 150 in order to Soft lock makes a harder limit.

And 
√ Use special game settings
  √ Allow game to adjust settings
in profiler.
That is all I know.

If you try the 2010 fiesta you should get 540º and a very quick responsive steering.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
versedi said:
Does the Focus'es from 2000's have 900 degres steering or my softlock gone rogue?
I think that car is 720º 
(Focus 2001 or 2007?? ... mmm .. I think both have the same lock)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
http://imgbox.com/PdlRe4a0
http://imgbox.com/xwFzlAT2
http://imgbox.com/3cM5ps6L

i got setting like in links above, and i can not feel any lock... tell me everything is fine and i'll just keep playing :P

but frankly i'm not sure about 900 degree, subaru from a group feels so much different from 540, maybe it's just matter of practice

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i don't understand how you could play with more than 400° steering :)   (exept RWD cars)

it feels like driving  this

http://www.webalice.it/a.vremec/vacanze/BiogradSpalato09/AlessioTimone.jpg

or maybe this:

http://www.puntocomunicazione.com/lnd/carrelli_elevatori/foto/volante_carrello.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hahahaha, i read that most of WRC cars have 540 degree and it was my starting point, i never tried any lower to be honest... but 900 is too much at least for now.
I'm thinking about taking it in steps, like from 540 which i'm used to to 720* and after over hundred of stages maybe attack 900 degree again and see what'll happen :)

I dunno if it's a good tactic, but it's worth a shot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
noico said:
hahahaha, i read that most of WRC cars have 540 degree and it was my starting point, i never tried any lower to be honest... but 900 is too much at least for now.
I'm thinking about taking it in steps, like from 540 which i'm used to to 720* and after over hundred of stages maybe attack 900 degree again and see what'll happen :)

I dunno if it's a good tactic, but it's worth a shot
i don't wanna make fun of anyone, i'm just curious.

if you came to a hairpin with 900°  how many rounds must you give the wheel? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

teknoid85 said:
noico said:
hahahaha, i read that most of WRC cars have 540 degree and it was my starting point, i never tried any lower to be honest... but 900 is too much at least for now.
I'm thinking about taking it in steps, like from 540 which i'm used to to 720* and after over hundred of stages maybe attack 900 degree again and see what'll happen :)

I dunno if it's a good tactic, but it's worth a shot
i don't wanna make fun of anyone, i'm just curious.

if you came to a hairpin with 900°  how many rounds must you give the wheel? 
p.s:  i believe  the factory degree is 540° but i guess any driver will make it adjust to it's prefered setting.

i would very like to know wrc drivers wheel degree

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
try using "scandinavian flick", it makes hairpins easier and you just go through corner faster. I don't know how many rounds to be honest, but FFB helps with going back to straight line :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×