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Logitech Driving Force GT - Recommended FFB Settings

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Hi @topotamolder 

Avoid clipping and getting good FFB effects is very hard. 

Its not your wheel, It happens to everyone with this settings... but you should never release both hands from the steering wheel, ingame or in real life.
This forces fighting against each other happens in many games. I insist, you must keep at least 1 hand on the wheel and you will never feel any interference. This happens only wheen the wheel moves freely.

The settings you posted from RD its completely ambiguous to me:
- 99% center srping effect (really??! this one moves back the wheel to the center even with car stopped!)
- Not 900º  (maybe he does not use soft lock)
- 0% tyre friction means no FFB effect when front differential act.

And I think he confuses what "Steering center" (68%) means in FFB menu in game.

But you should use what you find more suitable to your liking.

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First of all thanks to everybody who contributed to this thread. I just got my DFGT and tried these settings and well, this is what happens. It literally makes the game unplayable as I'm fighting the wheel non stop. Is my wheel faulty or something? That doesn't feel realistic at all

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=760jSdut5Ig

Using other configs like this one and it doesn't happen at all  http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/real-rally-drivers-g25-27-ffb-settings.116089/



Sorry about the potato quality



This was exactly the problem i had with my DFGT.

I started playing with similar things while ago mentioned in that link you posted. So i started to.conduct more research into it and to get a FFB settings that feel natural to even those that havent played rally games before.
I asked couple of my Subaru & car loving friends with one having some Rally sprint backround and had them to test couple of settings.
They could not drive a thing with default preset, but some setups (like @OzoreXS example)  where better than others. I had a notebook open were i wrote all their input of how it should feel.
we had some break through especially one concerning that same problem you had.
I have tested different things to find a good setup for RWD, FWD, 4WD, and found out to be "perfect" each one should have their own settings and even some cars should have their own too.
So what i have this moment is this next setup.

This is also based writings of drivers to other games what kind of feeling do they get via wheel and what info you would in theory need from FFB.
Also i have talked on phone with my wifes uncle who has driven real rally cars for 20+ years. He is an "old school" dude so getting info from him was little hard. I am going to ask him to come over some time to test and give his hands on input. I almost forgot to mention that i also watched many incar videos of different rally cars repredented in DR and try to based my wheel behaviour somewhat to those too.

(For everyone reading this. This is just my reaserch and different take on this thing. There are other great setups mentioned in this thread by others. This is just one way to setup your wheel )

I did not post this before because,
THIS IS STILL WORK IN PROGRESS
Yes this are unorthodox settings.

SOFTLOCK NOT USED BECAUSE OF LESS THAN MAX. WHEEL ROTATION

Logitech Profiler
OES : 100 (you can try more but it will introduce that waving effect)
DES : 0
SES : 100
Center Spring : YES, 60 % (THIS IS REALLY THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE that we had with the help of my friends, only not real thing is that wheel turns to center when standstill but i am not too often just idleing in rally stage :smiley: ) [I also undestand this is not normally done, but in this situation i think it really works..FFB forces from the game are powerful enough to work with even centering spring used. You can try lower percentage but it might introduce waving effect depending how much SAT you use)
Wheel Rotation : 630 (That is totally dependable such things like FOV you are using. I use Projector as my screen with semi super FOV settings curved around me)

In Game FFB
SAT: 100  %
60 - 100 % ; It is best to start from 60, or even try lower than that. (Tyre Friction needs to be same set or +5 percent with RWD, +-0 /+-3 with 4WD, and -5/+-0 WITH FWD. COMPROMISE being at +-3 percent. This is important to get natural counter steer) [ In theory you can go lower than you Center spring too and i am now comparing result and feeling with both. This was also mentioned in the RD link you posted]
Wheel Friction : 0%
0-50 %
Tyre Friction : 103 %
60 - 105 % (SEE SAT for more info. Good compromise is +3 % more than SAT. This is because you need to feel wheel loosening when being on the limit of your grip. it should even feel little bit loose when you still have some grip left and you are on the limit. Wheel also rumbles a bit when on limit ) [THIS STILL NEEDS WORK IF BETTER LESS OR MORE, but now it gives me clear feeling of when i am on the limit]
SUSPENSION : 120 %
100 -120 (This depends how much you need it)
TYRE SPIN: 100 %
95-105 (This  gives you rumble when you are on the grip limit. For rear tyres atleast.)
COLLISION : 100
SOFTLOCK :  100
CENTERING : 100

This made it  atleast faster and  feel more natural for me and my friends after they tested it again.

I will get back if i change something.

BTW @topotamolder  that link what you posted was interesting to me and made me reassured i was on right track.

Have fun DIRTying  everyone!


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good to know it's not my wheel guys, I just got this wheel used and was a little bit scared hehe.

@OzoreXS - I also got the impression that the Rally Driver settings didn't look too good, but they actually surprised me when I tried them,  a little light for my liking, so I bumped  the Overall Effect strenght to 97-99 (can't remember exactly) , and they became much better.  I noticed that if I used more than 99 or 100 the wheel would start wobbling, oscilating or whatever that effect is called.

But honestly I think I liked the feeling of your settings better, more heavy steering and I could feel the bumbs and suspension better. But that wobbling effect literally makes me lose control of the car even on straight lines when I'm going fast, and I can also feel it fighting against me on curves. Basically it fucks up all my driving (granted I'm still a noob so that might be part of the problem as well)

I'm going to give your settings a try with 97-100 OES and see if it stops it and maybe adjust some of the other settings if they feel too much light after the change.

@TuliRally
Thanks for your research!, can't wait to try those settings.  It looks like you ended up with some of the same conclusions than me, which is that the OES slider is one of the (if not the main) culprits of these strange effect.

Once again thanks to both for your work, It's testing time for me now.




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good to know it's not my wheel guys, I just got this wheel used and was a little bit scared hehe.

@OzoreXS - I also got the impression that the Rally Driver settings didn't look too good, but they actually surprised me when I tried them,  a little light for my liking, so I bumped  the Overall Effect strenght to 97-99 (can't remember exactly) , and they became much better.  I noticed that if I used more than 99 or 100 the wheel would start wobbling, oscilating or whatever that effect is called.

But honestly I think I liked the feeling of your settings better, more heavy steering and I could feel the bumbs and suspension better. But that wobbling effect literally makes me lose control of the car even on straight lines when I'm going fast, and I can also feel it fighting against me on curves. Basically it fucks up all my driving (granted I'm still a noob so that might be part of the problem as well)

I'm going to give your settings a try with 97-100 OES and see if it stops it and maybe adjust some of the other settings if they feel too much light after the change.

@TuliRally
Thanks for your research!, can't wait to try those settings.  It looks like you ended up with some of the same conclusions than me, which is that the OES slider is one of the (if not the main) culprits of these strange effect.

Once again thanks to both for your work, It's testing time for me now.




No problem mate! I can vouch for that using @OzoreXS setup you get more info from suspension etc.

I am now trying to find some combo of both.
Like using his Logitec Profiler settings (with added center spring) and example using only 30% center spring and lowering SAT is also good. It still wobbles if you let loose of the wheel, but it doesnt go out of control.

I would like to know what causes it. My other games (Ac, Race 07, RBR) does not do it. But still it now feels good so it not a problem anymore.

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I still hope that CM would (somerime in future) sit down a real rally driver (should not be a problem :smiley: ) and would make most realistic settings they can make for all wheel models they can get their hands on and of course would provide them as presets.

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TuliRally said:
I still hope that CM would (somerime in future) sit down a real rally driver (should not be a problem :smiley: ) and would make most realistic settings they can make for all wheel models they can get their hands on and of course would provide them as presets.
Just tried your latest settings for the last few hours and man, WHAT A BLAST on every surface! (Only tried playing with the 2001 Subaru, which is the only car I use at the moment)

Everything felt like it made sense, miniumum wheel wobbling at low speeds if I let the wheel go, but nothing as severe as the video I posted, (I still could feel it a bit at really high speeds with my hands on the wheel,  which seems realistic I guess?)

The wheel was actually helping me with the countersteering instead of fighting against me, I could feel every road bump, crash, tyre slip. Everything was so smooth but without being exaggerated.   Seriously , I was about to shed a tear because of the joy I was having since the first moment I plugged in these.

If you say the settings are still in progress I can't wait to see what changes you make, but to me they feel amazing the way they are right now.

Thank you, I can finally enjoy my wheel

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TuliRally said:
I still hope that CM would (somerime in future) sit down a real rally driver (should not be a problem :smiley: ) and would make most realistic settings they can make for all wheel models they can get their hands on and of course would provide them as presets.
Just tried your latest settings for the last few hours and man, WHAT A BLAST on every surface! (Only tried playing with the 2001 Subaru, which is the only car I use at the moment)

Everything felt like it made sense, miniumum wheel wobbling at low speeds if I let the wheel go, but nothing as severe as the video I posted, (I still could feel it a bit at really high speeds with my hands on the wheel,  which seems realistic I guess?)

The wheel was actually helping me with the countersteering instead of fighting against me, I could feel every road bump, crash, tyre slip. Everything was so smooth but without being exaggerated.   Seriously , I was about to shed a tear because of the joy I was having since the first moment I plugged in these.

If you say the settings are still in progress I can't wait to see what changes you make, but to me they feel amazing the way they are right now.

Thank you, I can finally enjoy my wheel
Well, that is just great to hear! It makes me really happy that it helped someone to enjoy driving more and without extensive wobbling.
What you can do if you want to test is to my older alternative settings:
SAT to 80 %
BTW. This was setup that had most realistic weight and feeling of wheel compared to my friends subaru and my own car when driving in lower speeds. [With SAT You can go as low as you like, Lower you go the less wobble you get, but less counter steer]
Tyre friction* to 83 % if you like how it feels now.(if you wanna try you can test 75-85 % to see what you like more. Finding right balance for this gives you the right amount of info about grip)
*I find best difference between SAT and Tyre Friction is +-10 % max. That +3 % being best compromise.

Reason i now use 100 % SAT and 103% tyre friction is based on real in-car videos, what i have read about in real wheel behaviour, and especially to make older cars (RWD) drivable. And to give me that little bit of work to do :blush: 
My understanding now is that, newer the car, easier it is to drive and not heavy but responsive. Setting up different presets for some classes is not a bad idea and something i am working on. (Also older Lancias are really light to steer in this game, but they look quite heavy to steer in real in-car videos. I don't know it, but it could be because mid-engine configuration in this game that makes them light though. Or they are just that light in real life too, i am still researching this.)

Optional:
FUN EXTRA SETTINGS TO TRY: try @OttoWilson mod if you can find it on one of the threads. It uses game own centering spring and gives you much more info from the road. After testing it normally, you can then try to combine it with my settings with turning OFF centering spring from in game FFB settings. It will give more info from the suspension so you can lower suspension from in game to 100 %. This mod boosts SAT (from original 7.5 to 8.0 value) so you might want to lower it too if it introduces wobbling. Probably you want to boost tyre friction closer to +10% to balance it with boosted SAT.

I will inform any new changes. I think it will be more finetuning now. Let's see what my wifes uncle has to say if i ever get him to test these settings :smiley: 

Ps. Anyone reading this. Don't underestimate the power of the Field Of View. Setting up a correct FOV makes a whole world of difference.
Mr.Pix have made some great FOV tools and info http://www.projectimmersion.com/fov/howto.php?g=DR


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Hey @TuliRally , looks like you are still busy trying to refine the FFB settings. Good job.

I´m looking forward to give your settings a try too. Some parameters seems like I will not like directly, but maybe I can find a good mix between yours and mine.

Lets see the main differences:
Mine Vs (Tulirally)
INGAME
Advanced wheel options:
  Steering Saturation = 100% 
  Steering linearity = 0
  Deadzones = 0%
  Soft lock = ON
  Center steering = ON

^^THIS IS A MUST HAVE FOR ME^^

Vibration & feedback:
  Self Align Torque (SAT) = 135% -- (100)
  Wheel friction = 15% -- (0)
  Tyre friction = 35% -- (103) This one reacts in a very different way depending on SES and DES settings; lets see
  Suspension = 105% -- (120)
  Tyre slip = 95% -- (100)
  Collision = 100% -- (100)
  Soft lock = 150% -- (100)
  Steering Center Force = 150% -- (100)

LOGITECH PROFILER
√ Use special force feedback device settings
    Overal Effects Strenght = 107 -- (100) (100 is overal weak for me but I must try the whole config)
    Spring Effect Strenght = 85 -- (0) 
    Damper Effect Strenght = 40 -- (100) Never matched this one with tyre frict. at 103. Must try
√ Enable centering spring (enabled)
   Centering spring strenght = 0 -- (60) I tried settings between 25-45 With good results before, specially on hairpins... but the autocentering in iddle.. :(
√ Use special steering wheel settings
  □ Report combined pedals (disabled)
      Degrees of rotation = 900º (630 without soft lock) I like to work with the real steering lock of all cars.
√ Use special game settings
  √ Allow game to adjust settings


I will try to test your settings today. I will post some comments later.
Regards, thanks for your efforts.
 

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OzoreXS said:
Hey @TuliRally , looks like you are still busy trying to refine the FFB settings. Good job.

I´m looking forward to give your settings a try too. Some parameters seems like I will not like directly, but maybe I can find a good mix between yours and mine.

Lets see the main differences:
Mine Vs (Tulirally)
INGAME
Advanced wheel options:
  Steering Saturation = 100% 
  Steering linearity = 0
  Deadzones = 0%
  Soft lock = ON
  Center steering = ON

^^THIS IS A MUST HAVE FOR ME^^

Vibration & feedback:
  Self Align Torque (SAT) = 135% -- (100)
  Wheel friction = 15% -- (0)
  Tyre friction = 35% -- (103) This one reacts in a very different way depending on SES and DES settings; lets see
  Suspension = 105% -- (120)
  Tyre slip = 95% -- (100)
  Collision = 100% -- (100)
  Soft lock = 150% -- (100)
  Steering Center Force = 150% -- (100)

LOGITECH PROFILER
√ Use special force feedback device settings
    Overal Effects Strenght = 107 -- (100) (100 is overal weak for me but I must try the whole config)
    Spring Effect Strenght = 85 -- (0) 
    Damper Effect Strenght = 40 -- (100) Never matched this one with tyre frict. at 103. Must try
√ Enable centering spring (enabled)
   Centering spring strenght = 0 -- (60) I tried settings between 25-45 With good results before, specially on hairpins... but the autocentering in iddle.. :(
√ Use special steering wheel settings
  □ Report combined pedals (disabled)
      Degrees of rotation = 900º (630 without soft lock) I like to work with the real steering lock of all cars.
√ Use special game settings
  √ Allow game to adjust settings


I will try to test your settings today. I will post some comments later.
Regards, thanks for your efforts.
 
Yep the autocentering on iddle. That buggered me too, even though when playing it's probably something that you don't do much. I can not help to think that does it interfere with some info, but for now it seems to work. 

Today i'm going to try those Real Rally Driver settings mentioned in @topotamolder post. And maybe fine tune from those or something. I feel quite trusty towards settings used by someone who really drives and says they are realistic.

I almost forgot. 
I would be really interested on hearing on about relationship between SES & DES with Tyre friction.
Because, i wonder if with using your logitech profiler settings + centering spring at like 30-65 % and dropping OES 65 you would not need to change your In-game ffb at all. I'm just wondering though..

PS. Have anyone tried SLRE PC demo. Well after you have tried with stantard setup, try this
Profiler OES 65
Ses 100
Des 100

Centering spring 65

SlRE in game
Force feedback intensity 65
Vibration 35

You can change Center spring and Focefeedback intemsoty, but point is to keep Centering spring and Force feedback intensity same with each other to keep the balance.

And be a happy driver.

Why i mentioned these here. I noticed something interesting while testing these that could be applied to DR. 
Settings OES over 65% seems to add clipping to FFB info atleast in SLRE demo. In that Real Rally Driver setup he uses OES 57 for DR....interesting..

Continues on the new episode of... 
Real FFB investigators :smiley: 





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TuliRally said:
Optional:
FUN EXTRA SETTINGS TO TRY: try @OttoWilson mod if you can find it on one of the threads. It uses game own centering spring and gives you much more info from the road. After testing it normally, you can then try to combine it with my settings with turning OFF centering spring from in game FFB settings. It will give more info from the suspension so you can lower suspension from in game to 100 %. This mod boosts SAT (from original 7.5 to 8.0 value) so you might want to lower it too if it introduces wobbling. Probably you want to boost tyre friction closer to +10% to balance it with boosted SAT.


I´m lost here. The game has not a centering spring feature, not in wheel settings nor FFB settings.

It has "Center Steering"(Controller ops.) + "Steering center force"(FFB)
The only things this feature does is:
- Center the steering wheel, move it to the center position, when you start a stage. Only if the steering wheel is not at the center position already.
- Center the steering when restoring the car after a crash. Only if the steering wheel is not at the center position already.

Thats all.

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OzoreXS said:
TuliRally said:
Optional:
FUN EXTRA SETTINGS TO TRY: try @OttoWilson mod if you can find it on one of the threads. It uses game own centering spring and gives you much more info from the road. After testing it normally, you can then try to combine it with my settings with turning OFF centering spring from in game FFB settings. It will give more info from the suspension so you can lower suspension from in game to 100 %. This mod boosts SAT (from original 7.5 to 8.0 value) so you might want to lower it too if it introduces wobbling. Probably you want to boost tyre friction closer to +10% to balance it with boosted SAT.


I´m lost here. The game has not a centering spring feature, not in wheel settings nor FFB settings.

It has "Center Steering"(Controller ops.) + "Steering center force"(FFB)
The only things this feature does is:
- Center the steering wheel, move it to the center position, when you start a stage. Only if the steering wheel is not at the center position already.
- Center the steering when restoring the car after a crash. Only if the steering wheel is not at the center position already.

Thats all.
Yes you are right. I have misspelled that part, being sick this week, and i'm sorry for missleading info. 
What i meant is OW Mod is using that Center Steering like a centering spring. It is constantly on and interferes with Profilers own centering spring. What i also tested was to setup things with profiler centering spring off, and using this center steering force. It was okay too if somebody wants to do it that way too. It might even be better, because i wanted to get good setup using only original FFb files first so i havent tested it much.

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Hi again!

So between watching Monte i had time to test this:
Real Rally Driver settings (All credit goes to original maker and creator JONNI-A) you can found link here. (Not posted by original author)
http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/real-rally-drivers-g25-27-ffb-settings.116089/

And the original creator, an video from user Jonni-A in youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVbX8vpu-Tk&app=desktop

I modified these a little bit and got what i feel is the most natural settings until now for me.
I first modified these to compensate differences between G25/G27 and DFGT, but then tweaked a little bit more to compensate not having that butt feeling like in real car.

Original settings are great (i highly recommend to try this original first, before testing any of mine.) and probably most realistic to the point, that you really don't get massive amounts of info from wheel (like i have read and heard) just like in real life. It works with all cars too. I just wanted a little bit more info about car behaviour from the wheel even if unrealistic. (i'm not real rally driver after all and i dont have hydraulic chair etc. Or any other means that could deliver me those infos. Btw, some day i wish i will get my hands on a real rally car to compare to and to take notes :smiley: )

REAL RALLY DRIVER SETTINGS / MODIFIED
I came up with three versions of this.

1. RRD with compensation and enhanced info
Same settings as original, but with added OES and changed Center Spring and SAT. You can try just adding more OES with out other changes if you want to keep it as close as possible to the original.

Profiler:
OES 65%-70% [from 57%]
CENTERING SPRING ; ON, 90% (lowered this to get more info from ffb, keep it 99% if you want to be as close as to Original RRD settings.)
IN-GAME
SAT 75% (to compensate for dropping that centering spring and get more counter steer, but you can leave it to 65 % if you want as close as possible.)
*you can fiddle with tyre friction if you want but for me it made driving RWD cars feel wierd.

This setup (mentiomed above) is closest to the original one.

----------------------------------------------------------------

2. What i use now is little bit different from before.

LOGITECH PROFILER
☆OES 65% (important for "realism", but if you need more info you can put it higher)
☆SES 100%
☆DES 100%

☆C-SPRING; ON, 85 % (it leaves room to feel even more additional info) 
[These profiler settings are work for me also with SLRE]

IN-GAME
Everything on 100 % except,
☆SAT 90 % (can be 85-100 %, changes the amount of how much you feel oversteer and understeer)
☆Wheel friction 1% (this is same as original)
☆Tyre friction 2% (this is now same as original, but if more it should give more info on understeer and diffs working, but seems to make controlling oversteer harder. Feels almost better with +3 % more than SAT than if like set to 20% but i'm not sure howvthis works. Also works better with 4WD and FWD than RWD .)

This setup feels good with RWD, FWD, 4WD.
It feels like a good balance between all FFB information and original RRD wheel behaviour.
------------------------------------------------------

3. Reversed version (OES and SAT)

So insted of using Profiler Overall effects strength on 65 %, you put everything on profiler to 100% and use original settings for in-game FFB.

Profiler: 
All 100%, (OES can be set to 85-100%)
Center spring: ON, 85-100 (less gives you more info same thing as with "unreversed", but also lighter wheel.)

In game ffb
Same as in original RRD. 

With this setup there is little bit of wobbling if you let go of wheel.

So please try any of these and i'm more than happy to hear any ideas for improvement. Especially consedering realism etc.






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I just tried the Real Rallye settings and I´m thoroughly confused.

Before, I was using the first "brakethrough" settings Ozore found (see page 1 in this thread), which was pretty twitchy but gave me the first good feels.
 Compared to that, the Real Rallye settings are very sluggish. The wheel is much harder to turn, which makes rapid corrections very hard. Not at all the way the dude was driving in the video a few posts up.
Now, twitchy isn´t really my thing tbh, since it made me spin out on way too many high speed parts, but this now feels like I´m paddeling through mud.

Things is, I´m still not really sure which setting does what , especially in the profiler, since the explanations don´t really make sense to me.
Is there a guide or something to explain each setting and its impact, dummy style?

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RobSisco said:
I just tried the Real Rallye settings and I´m thoroughly confused.

Before, I was using the first "brakethrough" settings Ozore found (see page 1 in this thread), which was pretty twitchy but gave me the first good feels.
 Compared to that, the Real Rallye settings are very sluggish. The wheel is much harder to turn, which makes rapid corrections very hard. Not at all the way the dude was driving in the video a few posts up.
Now, twitchy isn´t really my thing tbh, since it made me spin out on way too many high speed parts, but this now feels like I´m paddeling through mud.
Yep, he uses G27 and i had similar feeling with my dfgt like you described.
"Truth" is somewhere between those two settings.
You can try some of my versions of it as a starting point and tweak from there, or even try my other setting in page 8.
You can also start with just putting some center spring from profiler to OzoreXS settings and lowering SAT to 100%.

FFB is quite personal thing and if one would have (i don't now, but someday i hope i will have) knowledge of real rally cars, FFB could be set to be similar in feeling, but still it is and would be a game and you probably need to find one setup that you like.

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OK guys, new changes updated on first page.

Thanks @TuliRally for your perseverance and your efforts that made possible to bring some whole new concepts and points of view. Nice work mate!

So, seems like "Centering Spring" spring feature on Profiler makes all different when its above 70%. Despite the unreal centering of the steering wheel when cars stopped, the fact is it brings a good behavior when driving.

And, OES is very important. For those who wants to avoid that weird wobling effect this is the key. You can get rid of it using this with values below 80%.

This are my new values:
INGAME
Advanced wheel options:
  Steering Saturation = 100%
  Steering linearity = 0
  Deadzones = 0%
  Soft lock = ON
  Center steering = ON
Vibration & feedback:
  Self Align Torque (SAT) = 90 % (Removes that "violence" from old value 135)
  Wheel friction = 5% (old was 15)
  Tyre friction = 10% (old was 35)
  Suspension = 100% (old was 105)
  Tyre slip = 100% (old was 95)
  Collision = 100% (same)
  Soft lock = 150% (same, this becomes useless when using "Centering Spring" on profiler. Even 150 is not enough to feel the soft lock limit when reached; but I can live with it)
  Steering Center Force = 150% (same)
LOGITECH PROFILER
√ Use special force feedback device settings
    Overal Effects Strenght = 80 (Wobling is almost unnoticiable)
    Spring Effect Strenght = 100
    Damper Effect Strenght = 35

√ Enable centering spring (enabled)
   Centering spring strenght = 80 (more inferferes with other important effects)
√ Use special steering wheel settings
  □ Report combined pedals (disabled)
      Degrees of rotation = 900º
√ Use special game settings
  √ Allow game to adjust settings


Somehow, driving becomes intuitive and easier ... and times are better.

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OzoreXS said:
OK guys, new changes updated on first page.

Thanks @TuliRally for your perseverance and your efforts that made possible to bring some whole new concepts and points of view. Nice work mate!

So, seems like "Centering Spring" spring feature on Profiler makes all different when its above 70%. Despite the unreal centering of the steering wheel when cars stopped, the fact is it brings a good behavior when driving.

And, OES is very important. For those who wants to avoid that weird wobling effect this is the key. You can get rid of it using this with values below 80%.

This are my new values:
INGAME
Advanced wheel options:
  Steering Saturation = 100%
  Steering linearity = 0
  Deadzones = 0%
  Soft lock = ON
  Center steering = ON
Vibration & feedback:
  Self Align Torque (SAT) = 90 % (Removes that "violence" from old value 135)
  Wheel friction = 5% (old was 15)
  Tyre friction = 10% (old was 35)
  Suspension = 100% (old was 105)
  Tyre slip = 100% (old was 95)
  Collision = 100% (same)
  Soft lock = 150% (same, this becomes useless when using "Centering Spring" on profiler. Even 150 is not enough to feel the soft lock limit when reached; but I can live with it)
  Steering Center Force = 150% (same)
LOGITECH PROFILER
√ Use special force feedback device settings
    Overal Effects Strenght = 80 (Wobling is almost unnoticiable)
    Spring Effect Strenght = 100
    Damper Effect Strenght = 35
√ Enable centering spring (enabled)
   Centering spring strenght = 80 (more inferferes with other important effects)
√ Use special steering wheel settings
  □ Report combined pedals (disabled)
      Degrees of rotation = 900º
√ Use special game settings
  √ Allow game to adjust settings


Somehow, driving becomes intuitive and easier ... and times are better.
Thank you @OzoreXS for those kind words! Thanks also for a great work with fine tuning it. I had research it so many hours and i started to lose sense of what changes were making it better etc.
I think you made a great setup with your newest summary combining all good things we have found this far.

I will have couple of my race driving friends (have kart car & some rally knowledge but car enthusiast nonetheless) to come and drive with me. I will setup my gaming rig to new a place (basement) and will setup it with projector and curved screen.

(*still not have asked my wife uncle (extensive rally driving experience) to come and test this, but will when everything is up and running again)

Ps. @OzoreXS have you noticed any link between OES, SAT & Center Spring? I think i did always feel that everything "works" when they are same, but i was not sure.
I am just wondering if somebody wants it a little lighter feel would OES, SAT & Center spring at 70 % work? 
About damper, it is set to 35% ? May i ask why (i am asking to gain more knowledge)


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@TuliRally 
OES, SAT and Centering spring. The 3 main parameters, you screw one of them and all config will be messed up. :)

IMHO, this is an absolute matter of each one liking. The new config is a bit weak to my liking but the overall results are great, and the stage times improvement demostrates it; driving is easier somehow,

OES is the key to make the steering wheel harder, but the problem is the more force, the more woobling effect you get. SAT is the effect that makes counter steering forces and self align more noticiable, but above 100 the effect is exagerated and becomes "canned", not always you will want this, specially performing minor corrections.
Centering spring is definetely needed on Dirt Rally. Since game cannot "center" the the wheel by itself (as a real car would do when start moving forward "by itself") you need this in order to make driving easier and more natural, specailly under narrow turns and when using 900º + soft lock. This should be a SAT task, but no matter the config you set, self align torque does not center the wheel.

Link between each other? I dont thing so. All feature does what is intended for. You just need to be careful of getting balance.

DES is a sensible setting. Its function is a bit confusing to me; under some situations it brings a goos feeling but depending on car nature (4x4, FWD...) it can bring weird FFB (specially countersteering).
After fidding with it with all kind of cars I found 35/45% provides a cool weight and smoothness effect without being intrusive.
Value at 0 makes wheel too light.

If you are looking for a lighter config, the only thing you need is to tune down the OES settting; lets say 60%. All the other setting must be kept. If you still feel that counter action on the wheel is still exagerated, you can lower the SAT at OES levels... but driving feel becomes dull IMO.

I like both settings;
-My previous one allows you to feel, in a exagerated way, the reactions of the car. Which is cool since you can anticipate action better,
-The new setting are a whole new concept. The steering feels more realistic but some FFB effects are missed since the centering spring feature clips almost the whole FFB signal when turning. The other thing I dont like of the new settings is the center zone weakness which can only be corrected by raising OES above 105 (acts like a center deadzone removal)

And dont forget we are trying to get the best of a cheap and basic wheel, results never will be as awesome as with a G27 or a T500 can be; of course.
By desing, by its servo/engine quality, its size... DFGT can offer you a limited experience, and never close to the real thing.. .but hey, not bad at all.

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OzoreXS said:
@TuliRally 
OES, SAT and Centering spring. The 3 main parameters, you screw one of them and all config will be messed up. :)

IMHO, this is an absolute matter of each one liking. The new config is a bit weak to my liking but the overall results are great, and the stage times improvement demostrates it; driving is easier somehow,

OES is the key to make the steering wheel harder, but the problem is the more force, the more woobling effect you get. SAT is the effect that makes counter steering forces and self align more noticiable, but above 100 the effect is exagerated and becomes "canned", not always you will want this, specially performing minor corrections.
Centering spring is definetely needed on Dirt Rally. Since game cannot "center" the the wheel by itself (as a real car would do when start moving forward "by itself") you need this in order to make driving easier and more natural, specailly under narrow turns and when using 900º + soft lock. This should be a SAT task, but no matter the config you set, self align torque does not center the wheel.

Link between each other? I dont thing so. All feature does what is intended for. You just need to be careful of getting balance.

DES is a sensible setting. Its function is a bit confusing to me; under some situations it brings a goos feeling but depending on car nature (4x4, FWD...) it can bring weird FFB (specially countersteering).
After fidding with it with all kind of cars I found 35/45% provides a cool weight and smoothness effect without being intrusive.
Value at 0 makes wheel too light.

If you are looking for a lighter config, the only thing you need is to tune down the OES settting; lets say 60%. All the other setting must be kept. If you still feel that counter action on the wheel is still exagerated, you can lower the SAT at OES levels... but driving feel becomes dull IMO.

I like both settings;
-My previous one allows you to feel, in a exagerated way, the reactions of the car. Which is cool since you can anticipate action better,
-The new setting are a whole new concept. The steering feels more realistic but some FFB effects are missed since the centering spring feature clips almost the whole FFB signal when turning. The other thing I dont like of the new settings is the center zone weakness which can only be corrected by raising OES above 105 (acts like a center deadzone removal)

And dont forget we are trying to get the best of a cheap and basic wheel, results never will be as awesome as with a G27 or a T500 can be; of course.
By desing, by its servo/engine quality, its size... DFGT can offer you a limited experience, and never close to the real thing.. .but hey, not bad at all.
Thank you @OzoreXS for a very thorough answer!

I think this is not only useful for me, but anyone else new with their DFGT wheel finding setup to their liking too. 

Although i have spend many (too many) hours to setting up FFB i got so lost to all possibilities that i started to forget what everything does. I tried to use academic methods, but was too eager to test everything. So still learning and your summary really helps. 

DFGT truly is one of the cheaper wheels, but still it is nice to get most realistic and best results what it can provide. This is something i have learned with cheap music instruments & synths. Even crappy sounding things can be taken to their best with right setup and use of them.

MODIFIED PEDALS

One thing i looked into was modifying DFGT pedals.
Throttle mod:
I used kind of bungee/rubbery cord to get more feel / resestance to throttle. Not much but just to get more mechanical feeling. This mod is similar to what can be found on the internet.

Brake mod: 
I tried couple of things. Based on feelings i get from real cars (friends subaru) when left foot braking the brake feels "loose" first then you feel like great resistance and if pushed even slightly more it brakes quite heavily, relatively easy. What i am saying is, that it is totally different compared to throttle or clutch.
So to get that feeling you need something that feel loose first, then stiff but still lets you apply more pressure while resistance grows a little bit.
Best so far is Waboba ball. But now after month it is loosing that stiffness. 
I think that next i try bath toys. Enough room to give me that looseness if not in contact, but after contact to the toy you feel resistance from the rubber and air , but apply more pressure and from vent the air comes out slowly to let you use full range of motion. One thing to consider is that it needs to be fill again with air very quickly. Something like this can be made of course DIY style with suitable vents.

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Updated (OP) with an alternative method for FFB using TemplarGFX´s mod.

It replaces original XML FFB file, but it does not affect to the online stuff.

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upnetacio said:
Dudes, this is a great post, but i'm a bit confused, which are the most current settings?
up

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