Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Share Your Wheel Settings Here

Recommended Posts


Damping should not be used or spring strength, unless the games settings are really rubbish, as this overrides the game settings to create a "false" feedback.

The help manual for the logitech profiler explains everything pretty well.

The settings for the G27 above here, are not to be used imo !!! Damping and Spring Strength should be both at Zero.


Agreed!!

(I only set overall effects for mine)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Logitech G27, PS3,  I did not change default settings, just not sure about linearity, I have 0, but keep trying if need to be changed. About FBB I have 70, 100, 50.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Driving force pro:

- In game settings i have always 0 or 100, except for braking deadzone (10%).

- FFB all 50%.

- logitech profiler - 200 degrees.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SOLVED - Using my wheel instead of my keyboard to start the game solves this problem. Codemasters support responded almost immediately. Good to go. ------------------------ For Autosport on the PC, my G27 wheel settings are not saved.  I have to choose a wheel and settings every time I use the game.  (My F1 2013 game remembers the settings.)

Does anyone have this issue or know a solution?  I also sent a note to Codemaster support but have not heard from them yet.

Cheers,

MMDCT

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
G27

Profiler:
Overal effects 100%
rest: 0%

Degress of rotation: 404

(
I highly recomend 400 degres of rotation!

It is a setting that is on rally cars and i think it is great in track racing games. Obviously for open wheel i would tone it down to about 220. But what 400 does for touring cars and endurance racing is allows you to feel car much better and lets front tires operate at optimal angles. When you turn front tires too much they won't have enought traction to turn so they essentially slide. You are still turning but have much less controll and you are wearing your tires much faster.

Basicly if you hear your tires screeching every corner, you are turning way too much. I very rarely go anywhere near steering lock taking both fast, full throttle turns and hairpins with less then 100 degrees on my wheel! Most of the time keeping it withing 50 degress. Only time I am getting to the lock is when countersteering massive slides.

In game
Vibration Strenght: 40
Wheel Strenght: 70
Wheel weight 10-20 (still deciding)

Original settings made my G27 quite heavy to the point it was close to real car. I didn't even know that G27 was capable of such strong feedback :) But i preffer to feel trought the weel what my car is doing and you can't realy do that if your wheel motors are operating at full strenght. It basicly clips feedback information so I have it quite low. 

BTW it is still heavy enought that my left arm is sore after whole day session :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thorinbur said:
I highly recomend 400 degres of rotation!

It is a setting that is on rally cars and i think it is great in track racing games. Obviously for open wheel i would tone it down to about 220. But what 400 does for touring cars and endurance racing is allows you to feel car much better and lets front tires operate at optimal angles. When you turn front tires too much they won't have enought traction to turn so they essentially slide. You are still turning but have much less controll and you are wearing your tires much faster.

Basicly if you hear your tires screeching every corner, you are turning way too much. I very rarely go anywhere near steering lock taking both fast, full throttle turns and hairpins with less then 100 degrees on my wheel! Most of the time keeping it withing 50 degress. Only time I am getting to the lock is when countersteering massive slides.

  Wisely said. I'll try 400 then.

;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I dropped it from 400 to 360 lately when I moved on to Endurance and Aston Martin. It is car and class specific. Luckily you can just minimise, change your setting and alt + Enter the game to full screen :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Logitech G27 and PS3; Factory Settings except the steer strength wich sometimes i lower to 80% or even less in drift events.

Since many time ago i use to the factory settings after touching controls a lot in Grid 2, F1, etc...In Grid 2 sometimes i have to use a 10 or 20% dead zone for the accelerator (gas pedal) but finally i always return to the most averages settings; i suposse i´m used to CM games and maybe not deserve for everybody, obviously, but i repeat that i was touching A LOT in the past years and at the end is always the same except little tweak for some special races but no more.

IMO in Autosport i found the best and smooth response of all the CM games, realistic and predictable, as it should be. Clutch response very good and quick in G27.

For DFGT wich i had in the past i´m pretty sure that factory settings are not very usable, at least a dead zone in the gas pedal is needed because of the nature of pedals in this model, very plastic feel and no opossed force in yor feet. The wheel is similar to G27 but for me is harder and the FF is more "powered" so i need to lower down all the FF sttings a 20% or so.

(degrees are not selectable in PS3 so i can´t suggest anything,

Salute.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I mean Wheel Strength instead of Sterr, in the FF section; sorry my mistake.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MMDCT said:
For Autosport on the PC, my G27 wheel settings are not saved.  I have to choose a wheel and settings every time I use the game.  (My F1 2013 game remembers the settings.)

Does anyone have this issue or know a solution?  I also sent a note to Codemaster support but have not heard from them yet.

Cheers,

MMDCT
In PS3 what i lost is the buttons assignements but not the wheel settings as FF and the other parametres. If i play around between the wheel and the controller i lost buttons asigmts whe i connect one of both (in my case buttons settings are not factory defalut).

This happens me in Grid 2 and F1 2013;is not frustrating but an issue that can be fixed. (i remember only two times i´ve lost all the parameters and settings but not for now in Autosport)

Salute.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
G25 PC, profiler, 180 degree rotation, 100% Overall, 0% spring/damper, return spring on with 0%, do not allow game to change settings.

In game 60/70/60, saturation 100%, 0 linearity 

Quite weighty but feedback effects really come through, the kerbs feel like they are real!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Finally got round to playing with a wheel on the game tonight.

Very fun! Didn't have to change anything except I lowered the vibration strength from 100 to 50 because of my bony t-rex arms :x (and my flimsy desk).

Feel much more in control of the car than with a pad ... but still not experienced enough to go faster. Def. need a better desk for racing on.


... Also why do I have two accounts ergh whatever.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Xbox 360
Fanatec CSR firmware 756
my setting

In-game settings
Stearing Deadzone 5%
Stearing Saturation 100%
Stearing Linearity 1
Throttle Deadzone 20%
Throttle Saturation 100%
Brake Deadzone 20%
Brake Saturation 100%

Vibration Strength 10%
Wheel Strength 100%
Wheel weight 100%

On the wheel settings
Sensitivity (SEn): 370
Force feedback strength (FF): 80 (or 70)
Vibration strength (Sho): 80 (or 70)
Drift mode (dri): Off
ABS: 100
Linearity (Lin): 0
Deadzone (dEA): 0
Spring (SPr): 1
Damper (dPr): -3 (or -2)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Xbox 360
Fanatec CSR firmware 706


In-game settings
Stearing Deadzone 0%
Stearing Saturation 100%
Stearing Linearity +7
Throttle Deadzone 0%
Throttle Saturation 100%
Brake Deadzone 15%
Brake Saturation 100%

Vibration Strength 100%
Wheel Strength 90%
Wheel weight 80%

Wheel Settings (OPEN WHEEL)
Sensitivity (SEn): 800
Force feedback strength (FF): 100
Vibration strength (Sho): 100
Drift mode (dri): 1
ABS: 75
Linearity (Lin): 10
Deadzone (dEA): 0
Spring (SPr): 3
Damper (dPr): 3

Wheel Settings (NON OPEN WHEEL)
Sensitivity (SEn): 900
Force feedback strength (FF): 100
Vibration strength (Sho): 100
Drift mode (dri): 2
ABS: 75
Linearity (Lin): 10
Deadzone (dEA): 0
Spring (SPr): 3
Damper (dPr): 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Fanatec CSR with Fanatec CSR standard pedals....

Steering Sat, Brake Sat, Throttle Sat, all 100%.
Linearity, Deadzone, and Brake Sat. all 0%
Brake Deadzone at 5-10%



I believe I answered you in the other thread o.o but incase it was someone else 

Wheel :
Sen : 340 (Edit : Changed this to my standard F1 setup at 280)
FF : 70
Sho : 70
Dri : 005
ABS : 52 (this needs tweaking)
Lin : 000
Dea : 010
SPR : -1
DPR : -4

They are the settings I use at Monaco on F1 2012

Game :
Deadzone : 0%
Steering Sat : 100%
Steering Lin : -4
Everything else default

Force feedback :

Vibration : 50% (Default)
Wheel strength 100% (default)
Wheel weight 30%

I'm using elite pedals though. I need to tweak my brake saturation a bit, so I don't have to adjust my pedal resistance. (It's currently perfect for Forza 4)

I was actually surprised that these settings worked as well as they did. But I've had fun with it like this.


Completely wrong approach! ALWAYS set ingame FFB strength as low as possible and max out on the wheel itself to have best fidelity. Drift 5 shows me that your settings ingame are too high. Those settings suffer from clipping badly. If you encvounter too much friction set Wheel weight to 10% if need be and drift to MAYBE 1-2. Its a matter of taste but I would try it. THere is a very interesting thread on the iRacing forums with regards to Fanatec hardware you should read. Don't havew a link for you but go and do a search for 'FFB dialling in'. Not that 'dialling in' is an option for GA but the basics are wonderfully presented in terms anyone can understand.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Loore said:
@Loore, do codemasters have recomended in game settings? i am not that good at setting up my wheel in games.
The default settings in game should be a great place to start. From there I'd just tweak little bits and pieces to get it feeling just right for you.
Sorry Loore. I totally disagree. Clearly goes to show that your dev team should work more with hardware manufacturers like Fanatec. I do not believe the guys from Landshut are happy with your FFB support in games. OFC you would not get that confirmed officially.

As stated in above post-to get top fidelity on Fanatec equipment have wheel settings set to a STR value of 100. Ingame I use(and everybody should to get the most out of the kit)in any of your games between 10-30% FFB strength. If you like I can deliver CLEAR and almost scientific proof, but I think you guys should do this homework and not the player especially since you charge a top dollar for a game that should have been an expansion of Grid2. It's nothing more anyways.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
New Settings:

In-game settings
Stearing Deadzone 5%
Stearing Saturation 100%
Stearing Linearity +1
Throttle Deadzone 5%
Throttle Saturation 100%
Brake Deadzone 15%
Brake Saturation 100%

FF:
Vibration Strength 100%
Wheel Strength 100%
Wheel weight 100%

On the wheel settings
NON OPEN WHEEL:
Sensitivity (SEn): 380
Force feedback strength (FF): 80
Vibration strength (Sho): 100
Drift mode (dri): off
ABS: 75
Linearity (Lin): 0
Deadzone (dEA): 000
Spring (SPr): 2
Damper (dPr): -3

OPEN WHEEL:
Sensitivity (SEn): 280
Force feedback strength (FF): 80
Vibration strength (Sho): 100
Drift mode (dri): off
ABS: 75
Linearity (Lin): 0
Deadzone (dEA): 000
Spring (SPr): 1
Damper (dPr): -2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PC / Logitech DFGT

Copied the 'devicesetup.xml' & 'effectsetup.xml' from Grid 2/forcefeedback foler over respective files in Autosport.  This gives me a smoother wheel turn than the gravely feel I got with the original files.
 


Reducing the wheel weight to 10% was a revelation.  Now I can feel the subtle slip effects that are there.  Though still not perfect. a lot better than before.














Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MarkVenom said:
Loore said:
@Loore, do codemasters have recomended in game settings? i am not that good at setting up my wheel in games.
The default settings in game should be a great place to start. From there I'd just tweak little bits and pieces to get it feeling just right for you.
Sorry Loore. I totally disagree. Clearly goes to show that your dev team should work more with hardware manufacturers like Fanatec. I do not believe the guys from Landshut are happy with your FFB support in games. OFC you would not get that confirmed officially.

As stated in above post-to get top fidelity on Fanatec equipment have wheel settings set to a STR value of 100. Ingame I use(and everybody should to get the most out of the kit)in any of your games between 10-30% FFB strength. If you like I can deliver CLEAR and almost scientific proof, but I think you guys should do this homework and not the player especially since you charge a top dollar for a game that should have been an expansion of Grid2. It's nothing more anyways.

 A expansion of grid 2 removing the force feedback you mean, right? this game DON'T HAVE ANY force feedback. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×