Jump to content Jump to content

What tweaks/adjustments do you make to your normal setup for a track when it's raining?


Recommended Posts

When I have a practice session, qualifying, or race that's going to be wet, I'm not sure how to adjust my usual setup for that track -- what tweaks do you all do to your normal track setup when it's wet?  (For example, "adjust X by Y; adjust A by B; etc.)  Any advice/tips greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

Link to post
Share on other sites

If it's only going to be a damp track of a quick shower, could be that just fitting the Intermediates is enough.

Usually I consider doing the following:

  • More wing angles. Mostly rear wing, but you should take care to maintain whatever front-rear wing angle proportion you're running as to not skew your aerodynamic balance. The average speed will probably be lower the stronger rain or longer the raining period, so you should increase wing angles accordingly to recoup the loss of downforce and maintain your cornering ability.
  • Brake bias rearwards. Lower overall speeds so less longitudinal G's, meaning the front of the car will be lighter under braking. Lighter, so less grip, so will lock up more easily. Shifting the BB to the rear axle will compensate for that and keep your stopping ability.
  • Again given the lower overall speeds, there will be relatively lower forces pitching and rolling your car around so you should consider softening your suspension all around, but keeping the ratios of the dry setup. Basically, lower springs in equal amounts and anti-roll bars in equal amounts front and rear. 
  • Same with camber. Less camber (angles closer to zero) as there will be less chassis rolling.
  • If oversteering on corner entry or steady cornering, lock the off-throttle differential. If oversteering when accelerating out of corners, unlock the on-throttle differential. Make sure to not mix those two up as they work on the same principle, but with very different effects.
  • Raise the ride height to avoid aquaplaning.
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

In addition to the above, consider lowering tyre pressures. I've ran into the problem of overheating full wet tyres, while running high tyre pressures. Additionally, lower pressures should in theory increase the contact patch giving you more grip. 

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/11/2021 at 5:28 AM, marioho said:

Less camber (angles closer to zero)

Bro, what does it mean? 

is front camber f.e. min  - 3,5 closer to zero then max -2,5? 

And what is zero here? -3? default?

this is a little bit confusing with the meaning of min and max 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Social Media & Community Team
On 8/11/2021 at 4:28 AM, marioho said:

If it's only going to be a damp track of a quick shower, could be that just fitting the Intermediates is enough.

Usually I consider doing the following:

  • More wing angles. Mostly rear wing, but you should take care to maintain whatever front-rear wing angle proportion you're running as to not skew your aerodynamic balance. The average speed will probably be lower the stronger rain or longer the raining period, so you should increase wing angles accordingly to recoup the loss of downforce and maintain your cornering ability.
  • Brake bias rearwards. Lower overall speeds so less longitudinal G's, meaning the front of the car will be lighter under braking. Lighter, so less grip, so will lock up more easily. Shifting the BB to the rear axle will compensate for that and keep your stopping ability.
  • Again given the lower overall speeds, there will be relatively lower forces pitching and rolling your car around so you should consider softening your suspension all around, but keeping the ratios of the dry setup. Basically, lower springs in equal amounts and anti-roll bars in equal amounts front and rear. 
  • Same with camber. Less camber (angles closer to zero) as there will be less chassis rolling.
  • If oversteering on corner entry or steady cornering, lock the off-throttle differential. If oversteering when accelerating out of corners, unlock the on-throttle differential. Make sure to not mix those two up as they work on the same principle, but with very different effects.
  • Raise the ride height to avoid aquaplaning.

All this and slightly lower brake pressure to help avoid lockups.

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, 2Pacalypse said:

Bro, what does it mean? 

is front camber f.e. min  - 3,5 closer to zero then max -2,5? 

And what is zero here? -3? default?

this is a little bit confusing with the meaning of min and max 

 

 

I can tell you the answer to that as confusion is a thing of the past for me personally now that it is clear that more is definitely less .............  -2.5 is the closest in game you will get to zero ,  ie the tyre/tire being flat on the track surface.

The game incorrectly states that - 3.5 is minimum amount of camber , ignore it - 3.5 is Max and - 2.5 is Min and so it would run 0 (Flat on track) -1 , -1.5 , - 2 , - 2.5 (minimum camber in game) ,   - 3 , - 3.5 (maximum camber in game)

 

Edited by Exasperated
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
13 minutes ago, Exasperated said:

I can tell you the answer to that as confusion is a thing of the past for me personally now that it is clear that more is definitely less .............  -2.5 is the closest in game you will get to zero ,  ie the tyre/tire being flat on the track surface.

The game incorrectly states that - 3.5 is minimum amount of camber , ignore it - 3.5 is Max and - 2.5 is Min and so it would run 0 (Flat on track) -1 , -1.5 , - 2 , - 2.5 (minimum camber in game) ,   - 3 , - 3.5 (maximum camber in game)

 

Thanks Bro, these descriptions in game are absolutely useless. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, 2Pacalypse said:

Thanks Bro, these descriptions in game are absolutely useless. 

Yes whoever did it is talking about the values of the actual numbers as they are negative values and as numbers then that is true , but as they are negative degrees then minus 3.5 degrees is more than minus 2.5 degrees , Its a nerd pedantic thing that caused a mistake in labelling it wrong.

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, 2Pacalypse said:

Bro, what does it mean? 

is front camber f.e. min  - 3,5 closer to zero then max -2,5? 

And what is zero here? -3? default?

this is a little bit confusing with the meaning of min and max 

 

 

Haha sorry, I know you got confused for no fault of yours – the game UI does need some good refreshing, but I chuckled here! Zero is zero, 0, as Exasperated clarified.

So <--(-3.5)---(-2.5)----0---(+1.0)--->

Positive games are not used in racing aside from ovals. A zero angle for camber would mean the tires sitting perfectly neutral, vertical, with no inclination whatsoever.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...