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Bear's Happy Place


thecraicbear

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I was also thinking about putting some LEDs in the lights... I also found out that I spent all this time doing all these macro detail bestest I could, and I'm literally supposed to glue a bulkhead directly against it so you can't possibly see any of the detail. Awesome. Could've saved like 8 hours of work.




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Yeah been there done that with every single model kit thus far, JZ. You know the detail is there, that's what matters! :D

Also, I don't know if you already know this, but glue as many things together as possible before painting - glue bites very well plastic to plastic, but not so much if there's paint inbetween. Sometimes you might have to resort to scraping off some paint with an Xacto-blade before gluing! But it's worth it, the model becomes really hard to break afterwards. Model glue melts the plastic and then dries again fusing the pieces together, essentially making the entire model a single piece of plastic in the end... more or less!
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Yeah been there done that with every single model kit thus far, JZ. You know the detail is there, that's what matters! :D

Also, I don't know if you already know this, but glue as many things together as possible before painting - glue bites very well plastic to plastic, but not so much if there's paint inbetween. Sometimes you might have to resort to scraping off some paint with an Xacto-blade before gluing! But it's worth it, the model becomes really hard to break afterwards. Model glue melts the plastic and then dries again fusing the pieces together, essentially making the entire model a single piece of plastic in the end... more or less!
I hate that plastic cement. Every time I use it the fumes knock me out and it just strings all over the place. It also usually breaks on me. I just went for CA, but I've also got super high grade epoxy.
And frankly, I'm not sure I care I know the details there. :/ Why go through all that effort to lock it away? I mean, if at least I could disassemble it. I'm trying to figure out if that's a possibility.
I also found out that shaking the little bottles is a better method of mixing than stirring with a toothpick. But even then it's only some paints. For some reason the white paint may as well be milk. It's either too thin, uneven and looks like crap, or it's too thick, uneven, and looks like crap with the added benefit of turning into goo.
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When I was a kid I built a bunch of models with CA glue, they all fell apart after a year. You need to use solvent, not adhesive. I use Plastruct Styrene Weld because my hobby shop has it, but I hear Tenax 7R is better if you can find some.
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I think the hobby shop I went to had the teeny humbrol cans, which I skipped over once I found out they were $5 a teence vs. $1.79 for the Testors or $2.50 for the Tamiya.
In any case, I thought things were just going poorly until I tried sanding the sprue off the tail light, went to wipe the dust off, and it snapped in half. I'm about to light something on fire.
Any ideas why my decals take so long to separate? and what should I use to glue on windows/lights? Doesn't the plastic cement haze?
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Plastic cement do indeed haze clear parts. I personally use white glue (wood glue) for this purpose, as when it's 100% dry it becomes completely transparent. Some super glues also works if you want a stronger bond, try out on a piece of clear sprue first though.

As for the decals, try to emerge them slightly longer in the water before putting them on the paper towel to absorb excess fluid, say... 15 seconds.
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Has anyone got any recommendations where the best place to buy Rally car models preferably those you can assemble and paint yourself, i have a idea to do a collection of all the rally cars i have ever driven painted up in the colours i had them in.
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dynt said:
Has anyone got any recommendations where the best place to buy Rally car models preferably those you can assemble and paint yourself, i have a idea to do a collection of all the rally cars i have ever driven painted up in the colours i had them in.
Tamiya has quite a lot of rally cars that you need to build and paint yourself. There are several online stores that sells them, do some Googling to find a place that suits you best. I always have to order my model kits from the UK or the US as they are too expensive in Sweden. Yes, you read that right... ordering model kits from abroad, with shipping costs, is cheaper than buying in Sweden - which is stupid.


This should be very much like the one you used to drive, yes? I have found 3 releases of this kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXCELLENT-DECALS-1-24-Tamiya-Ford-Escort-RS-Cosworth-4X4-Rally-Model-Kit-/131890514165?hash=item1eb54988f5:g:FRoAAOSw37tWBM5z

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Tamiya-1-24-Michelin-Pilot-Ford-Escort-Rs-Cosworth-Model-Car-Kit-/222098348278?hash=item33b617d8f6:g:ZucAAOSw6kxXHttf

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Tamiya-1-24-Repsol-Ford-Escort-Rs-Cosworth-Model-Car-Kit-/322134607603?hash=item4b00b806f3:g:4mkAAOSwuAVWusxq

I doubt the right decals would be included as they focus on the WRC, but there are people that make custom paint masks for a fee that you can ask for.

http://www.freewebs.com/miraclemasks/




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BadD0g said:
So, @Porkhammer, you have a new profile picture now? That's going to take some getting used to. Make sure to post lots of weird gifs so we can identify your posts quickly at a glance.
Any newbie reading an old thread will be quite confused about all the dude comments. I approve.
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wat                                                                           
See, it took me like 2 minutes to figure out that you posted this because your icon isn't The Dude anymore. I guess I've gotten so used to seeing icons that I don't even see the usernames

But, I won't complain about a Quake icon. Here's hoping the new one is good. I'm skeptical about the character-specific powers, but as long as they get the movement and item control right I think I'll be happy.
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BadD0g said:
But, I won't complain about a Quake icon. Here's hoping the new one is good. I'm skeptical about the character-specific powers, but as long as they get the movement and item control right I think I'll be happy.
I haven't played Quake 3 competitively since 2006, but when trying Quake Live recently - I could still do the strafe jumping. Rather well, too.

Juuuuust like riding a bike. ;)

(I seriously doubt they can capture that movement in the new Quake)
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There's an indie shooter called Reflex that replicates all the cpma physics, it's not a 100% copy but it feels surprisingly close. I think the id devs can handle that, provided they understand that movement is the main reason people play Quake and don't go changing things for accessibility. The PC only announcement gave me a little hope in that regard. I'm staying skeptical until we get more information though.
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So here's a question for you @Porkhammer
The main body cowling has a white exterior and black interior, and hating the white milky paint, I just used a big brush for the black on the inside (since the piece is already white). Got some over on the white though, whats the best way to just remove a spot of paint rather than strip the whole thing? I have Acetone, MEK, Alcohol, and all that, but not sure if Alcohol will do it, and Acetone eats the plastic.
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